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There are two connectors in that wire C231 & C233 I believe Maybe one of those is completely corroded? Otherwise I can't understand how you get voltage at one end of the wire and not the other. 15.5V seems high for any alternator output, but especially for the choke heater. I suspect that it would come off really fast, if that kind of voltage actually made it to the bimetallic spring. Maybe you want to start a new topic in the main forum? Not many members even bother to look at the NMSH... As you see it's not any kind of complex circuit, but perhaps someone else has encountered what's happening here?

Have you tried cycling the new motor? Do you know it's parked in the right place??? If it were me, and I knew: A) the stepped shaft is needed, and B) the new motor does indeed park in the wrong spot, I would probably just cut both arms and weld them together where I needed them to be. I really try to get 'name brand' parts, even if companies like Dorman and Standard have gone to recently, At least they seem to try and hold to the original spec. If you brought the two back to the parts store and showed them what's going on they should make it right for you ASAP. I realize this doesn't get you wipers this minute, when you need them, but hopefully the resolution is quick.

Ed, from Bullnose Garage is back.

Let's go to the 1986 EVTM! This is the charge and power distribution for DSII vehicles. You can see the 'S' terminal connects directly to the choke heater. The choke should only see power if the engine is turning the alternator. But it's unrectified current so you only get 1/2 of the approx 14V the alternator is producing... Does that help?

The bk/Lg wire is the ground tab just inside the distributor. When the blue grommet module breaks that ground the coil fires, and the tach gets a signal.

Honestly, if the standard LS diff were any good I'd say just buy an 8.8 in the right ratio complete and swap it in for the price of a couple of U-bolt's... How much could one of these cost? There were probably billions of 150 pick-ups and Broncos with this venerable axle 🤷‍♂️

It's coming from C322, the distributor connector? Black & green is definitely the tach signal, plus the only ground for DS-II... Orange and purple are for the reluctor pickup

I've pointed out many times before that the wiper motor grounds to the manifold on V-8's. I'm not sure where the ground goes on a 300??? My '87 has a different wiper motor, and a different plug, but there is a bush on the center link and a metal clip holds it to the motor eccentric arm. Then there is a plastic snap in bush at each wiper pedestals extension.

14.35V is the set point of the regulator. The alternator is charging correctly. 12.6V is the 'resting' voltage w/any surface charge removed. Are you measuring the choke wire on AC volts? Stator should be about 7V

Like I said, there's typically a plastic bushing and a retainer clip.

I never meant to suggest Kirby was being "replaced" When I had to put my dog down -8-9 years ago- it was the most challenging day of my adult life. (It was the tail of a long series of tragedies) I tried to make sure she had the very best day when it came. I know that I hadn't cried since I was 5 or so, but I wept as I lowered her into the hole and saw her for the last time.

Somehow I pictured Wagners Ride Of The Valkeries.

I know the regulator plug went from oval to D shape at some point. We all know if you try to make something idiot-proof, humanity will make a better idiot. I like Maniac Electric Motors. They can fill your starter & alternator needs.

Welcome Kurt! As Gary said, you should have stator power (approx 7V) on the blk/white bullet going to the choke, but only when the alternator is turning. Ford wired the choke this way so it will only be opening the choke with the engine running. Not with the key on (run) This way the choke doesn't continue to open if the truck stalls while warming up. As long as you got an 85-86 tank you should be fine. These have the bigger bung but still have the vent support in the filler neck. 87 on don't have the ring in the inlet to support the vent tube because they went to fill through the center, helping eliminate "burping"

RIP Kirby, and welcome to the family Ellie! It's always hard to see your best friend go 🥲 Lesley looks like she's doing okay.

I like a T-2 Torsen. They have them for the 8.8, but probably too much $$$ (nice in the snow, though!) https://www.maximummotorsports.com/Torsen-Limited-Slip-Differential-C157.aspx

If it doesn't pop the windshield seal you don't have enough sub. I joke that my 8" is a sub-sub..

I'm not one for used gears and I feel that you'd probably be even money by the time you replaced the frictions and springs, but I don't know 8.8's. I know 9's and the bigger stuff like 10.25, D60/70/80, so I may be way off base. Not sure why you'd need to replace any bearings or seals unless the lip has worn a groove. In that case you'll be getting SpeediSleeve's as well. With a new carrier you're certainly going to shimming (not so bad if you know someone with a set and you just 'swap') I used to do that for friends with Holley jets and springs.

It's a bit of a different situation. I know that he has kept it there since he bought it. He can't park it on the street since it's not registered (and at this point would need a full safety inspection -which it won't pass... Evidently the "kid" would come by on occasion and drive it around the neighborhood, but it hasn't been started in over 2 years, both batteries are completely dead. His mom needs a walker and her husband has to help her with the step and door. The kid evidently has the wherewithal to purchase a house and afford a baby. But can't be assed to do something with the truck he obviously doesn't care about any more than he cares about the imposition on his disabled mother.

Be sure to use the pilot tool correctly.

Which filter housing? That listing looks correct.

His parents have told him for almost 5 years they want it gone. He's now married, with a kid and lives hours away. His mother is invalid and has to park in the street. You tell me..

If there was no spring preload there wouldn't be any clamping pressure applied to the friction disc, and no way to make up for wear.

I use UR4's, but your EFI head is completely different than D9TE castings.

Turn up that new bass speaker and fuggetaboutit