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It seemed a pic was missing the ) What do you have for rockers and valve covers? Are you going to assemble another engine with the Eddy's or sell them on to help pay for this build?

Are you talking about that fibrous padding, or the carpet itself? I find a hot-knife (like used to cut foam) works well and kinda cauterizes the carpet so it can't fray. Might stink for a bit, but it's my go to solution when I have to deal with that stuff.

Those chamber castings look really nice and clean. How are the valve sizes compared to stock? You're going to have a very healthy 351, I can tell. 😉 I have that same Snap-On (Blue Point) valve spring compressor, though mine is a little worse off from 45+ years of abuse!

Best of luck! The weather here in CT has been amazing.

I'm patterning my 10.25 right now. I have 0.008 backlash and what appears to be good pattern on drive and. back drive sides. Going to try to drive it and see how hot it gets...

We're tuning for a massive vacuum leak on every vehicle with a PCV system, anyhow....💡 But certainly the ability of the carb to get a proper booster signal and flow fuel is going to be overwhelmed at some point. You did well, recognizing the symptoms and finding the cause, rather than trying to tune around it.

There are no crank journals or anything to line up an intake with, and you have to mill exactly the same off both sides, so Pythagoras sticks his ugly head in there too. Basically a pita to fixture and mill, even with a Storm or other block & head machine.

Try this: https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-5179-42081.aspx 42081 is what's marked on them.

You have the same issue with iron heads and an aluminum intake. Surface finish and a good gasket are key. If you really are pushing for power & compression (like a big stroker) then Cometic have head gaskets that will definitely seal.

I have just a regular Performer, no raised ports or air gap. My choke works well and the passage is open. (if a bit restricted) While I have a lot of respect for the engineering that went into the factory intake I'm glad I've shed more than a few pounds and don't have a bunch of rust on top of my engine. Certainly understand your point, though.👍

I agree with you there! Heated plenum floor makes a huge difference in warm-up time when it's cold out (especially with today's fuel) My baby brother's new take-home unmarked awd PI Taurus is flex fuel. With a tune, it's an absolute monster on E85, but I wouldn't want to try to get that stuff to atomize from a carb in winter with a cold aluminum intake. 🥶

I bet you're glad aluminum Windsor heads don't crack from spark plug to exhaust port like iron 460 heads do (every time!) Seems like you have a good handle on it, though. What are you thinking for replacement? Trick Flow, AFR?

I didn't skip it. I know it well. But Ortega has become the same damn villain that CIA installed when they assassinated the democratically elected president. (I keep going back to the Clash and their song Sandinsta)

A speaker is keeping the truck from running??? I'm sure you'll find parts for that French truck, and you'll be ready for Ian when he gets back from Honduras. (Honduras, Belize, Salvador, Guatemala and Costa Rica aref all beautiful places with beautiful people (at least they were 30, 40 & 50 years ago)

Be careful of falling into Gary's trap! He has SO MUCH stuff under-hood that not only is the 350 Superduty spring rating exceeded... you couldn't drop a dime in there and have it fall through to hit the floor.

Underhood tool box? "Ewissions".

. I've just noticed the last line of your sig! CTTH is fast disappearing, but I learned how to polish fiber back when that was a crude undertaking. Hard to beat a Cummins, but I wouldn't want to be the one paying their $2 Billion fine! 😂 F-650 was a good truck 30 years ago. I have no idea what they're like today, but it sounds like quite the upgrade for you. I wish a lightbulb would go off in my head and I came up with some magic answer, but alas.......

That looks mighty good on there! Ford generally had the carburetor tuned for an inlet air temperature of about 105° F (CWM's should be colour coded) This way, as long as the air cleaner flap was doing it's part,, the engine would be able to consistently meter fuel to meet the ewissions™ standard in place at the time. With an open element, the inlet air temperature is completely dependant on the season and how hot it is under the hood in the engine bay.

I am probably going to get crucified by those that know better then I. 🤣 I am using Duplicolor primer and paint as it claims to be pre-thinned and ready to go. I was just looking to remove a variable where I would foul it up. I bought an inexpensive LVLP paint gun: Aeropro Tools R500. Aside from my learning curve, it seems to work well. Edit: In addition to my shop air/water separater, I also bought an inline one I attached to the gun. In Northern Michigan we have as much water in our compressor as air. 😀 I painted my truck with Transtar DTM epoxy primer and a gallon of Rust oleum OSHA Safety Red, thinned w/ toulene, and dosed with Valspar gloss & hardner from Tractor Supply. I sprayed it with a $9 purple gun from Horrid Fate! Believe me, you have nothing to worry about

This is why I miss Alta Vista! Or even Netscape.... Even* Firefox and Duck,duck,go don't serve me what I request 100% of the time. At least I've found a way to turn off the AI garbage synopsis generated by Google.

Welcome Ryan! We have a few members from Auz and a couple from NZ as well! Gary will ask if you'd like to be on our member map. (You can always check in the drop-down menu to see if there's any of us close by. You and Dave Grant are to only two bodymen in our little club (I think) and he by osmosis only... Truck looks straighter than mine, already. Not saying much....

Okay, that's normal, if the linkage is disconnected. I can't say why there's so much trouble bleeding the clutch. It has always been a problem with the ones that don't have any bleeder, and that's why I got the Excedy slave* for the 351 trucks that had a fitting. When I fed the bleeder back up into the reservoir, and was able to pump without having to refill I got enough pedal to drive it and within a mile it had sorted itself. I'm sorry that you've had nothing but bad fortune with yours! It shouldn't be such a problem (in my experience) Please keep us informed!

Okay, I'm perfectly willing to believe that your low mileage truck's cross shaft bushings are in fine fettle. Having the pedal snap to the floor just isn't right. They'll do that if there's no fluid at all, but you've bench bled the master and the crank arm to master pushrod is tight The master pushrod is properly adjusted.. Your firewall isn't torn. You're getting fluid through the line to the bleeder. The slave pushes out on the throw out arm 3/4" or so I'm as dumbfounded as you, right now. Unfortunately, I'm not in Colorado to come look at it.

We used to spray things down with carb/brake cleaner and then use Desenex spray foot powder as a developer. Show the leak every time....

I didn't mean to say that Isla was into trucks, just that you hadn't mentioned her, or what she IS up to, while the boys play in the Garagemahal. Glad to hear that Janey is getting better. I'm still owed a brownie!