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I wish I was there to help! With my nipple bleeder slave I just run a clear hose up into the master reservoir and pump the fluid in a circle. Something is definitely going on if you can't get the over-center spring to bring the pedal back to the rubber stop with authority. It's extremely difficult to diagnose, and get your point across over the Internet, but I've got to say -like you- I'm about out of fresh ideas. You've already gone way farther than I've ever had to. Usually you get it 60-65% and drive it, it fixes itself in just a mile or 2. The dealer service bay would only install a complete, pre bled system (slave, line & master) We used to joke that the factory assembled these in a swimming pool of brake fluid. Have you tried a sealed, complete unit yet? I'm sorry. 🙁 I'm usually on point with advice, but it seems you're doing EVERYTHING right and still can't get positive results.

So am I correct in understanding that if it's hooked up to that cold weather modulator, it would prevent it from opening in certain temperatures? Would a 2 barrel 2150 carb benefit from the extra air under these circumstances? The CWM is a metal disc in the floor of the housing. The green/black plastic thing in the side, up by the coil is just a delay, to add hysteresis to the flap's motion. If vacuum drops a lot for more than a few seconds the flap inside the plastic shroud opens providing more (if hotter) air than can get through the snorkel alone. I can't say if a 400 really pulls as much CFM as a 460, (certainly not through a 2V) TTBOMK only 460's came with this air cleaner housing. (Thanks Again Bill! )

Best place to drill is just inside the rolled under edge of the bed/body side right where the rust always appears at the top of the wheel arches. Just a couple of holes 1.25-1.375" diameter. It's also a good idea to get oil up into the pinch weld periodically to keep water displaced from where it would get wicked in by capillary action, trapped and sit forever. Doing this makes it easy to flush out and mud or salt since you don't have to pull back the plastic liners front and rear.

I'm going to let Gary handle this, because I always seem to screw up the poll.

It's getting it registered and insured that's going to be a pain. But if it doesn't even crank I can't even tell if the lift pump works. Let alone the high pressure pump, injectors, etc. Getting it towed the hell out of there is a problem too, because the wheels and tires make it wider than my flatbed and it's parked 90° to the street, with a column at either side of the driveway. I'd have to get it with a wrecker and a wheel lift. But again, it's high in the air and I don't have any original suspension or body mounts. Oiol changes and filters are expensive and it's going to be done at least twice. It's a truck I would drive (after firring an exhaust and tune that doesn't roll coal) But then I have to weld up the bed.... Extra cab is appealing. Bed height is definitely NOT. I have to load job boxes, sheetrock, and lumber. I'm not going to be stacking concrete or shingles at shoulder height. Guy was on speaker with his father and said two neighbors have offered $3k, but "I know what I've got. The parts are worth more than that!" Both his parents want it gone (long ago) I'd offer $15 but it's not even worth that if the engine is gonna cost twice that to get past emissions. And then I have to make it into an actual pickup that works instead of a Mall Crawler.

Well, I need to see IF there's a title, and if the son ever tried to re-title it in his name. Because that would suck. I know it isn't registered, and I know if xyz years have elapsed you need a FULL safety inspection, so you can be sure all those 25 year old brake and fuel lines need replaced (DOT says 10 years for rubber). Also going to need new tires regardless of condition, because, again.... And then the bumper is too high for our state. So I've either gotta remove the lift (which means rims+tires wont fit) to get it below 30" or hack together drop bumper brackets welded to DOT specifications..... It looks clean (well covered in moss and filth) but I don't know if I want to get into it.

We just put it in the tow lot and let the daily storage fee exceed the book. I don't think this guy had title, or maybe the mods made it impossible to register. ?? 🤷‍♂️

I drag enough cars to the shredder... So, $1320+ $132 for 4x4 = $1452.00 Is my math right? It's hard to say what anything is worth if you can't hear it run.

Well, this kid must have bought it and let it set in his parents driveway, forlorn and unused. I'm not going to buy $350 worth of batteries to find out it's siezed or has no compression. This is (was) serious salt country. Even though you could get by with registering an untitled vehicle that has NO current emissions, you would be subject to an extra through going over by a State Police inspection station, just to get the red tape moving. It was built 2/99 . It's a 250, so you can be sure the 'lift' has it especially fubar to drive. It has never been registered by this guy in all the years since he bought it. It hasn't turned over, let alone ran in over two years. It does suffer rust in the door bottoms and (I would assume) cowl.... but I'd need a 6' step ladder to even look. I tow junk like this out of people's yards every day. Person passed, or just got 10 years added to their sentence, whatever.... Kid lives.... I have no idea.🤷‍♂️. Not close enough to get over to his elderly parents house on a dead end road and even keep the batteries on a tender.... Thinks he should recover the full cost of all the dry rotting 12 year old tires, rims, smoke stacks, suspension crap, etc... "I know what I've got!" 😆 Nobody wants it...... I sure as hell don't want 3 steps up to get into a pickup. People are not out building 25 year old trucks, or even 7.3's anymore. People would Cummins swap this thing. If they wanted a stronger engine they wouldn't choose an OBS PSD in the first place. Scrap value, by weight today, is probably $350. (remember, dry rotted tires, two shot batteries, no cats to turn over for profit, broken grille, probably a siezed up pump, if it hasn't even cranked since Covid. I don't care about garbage bling, I'm not interested in any of it. But this

No, I was driving at the time. Sorry.. 🤷‍♂️

Ok Gary, you win. I am going to make an effort to expand my english vocabulary and to ban “dummy” as the word that is best describing my total lack of knowledge. I promise to use different terms, such as “neophyte”, “newbie”, “novice” or “newcomer”. Or any other “dummy” softer synonym that members can suggest. The Haggerty Concours De'elegance was in town this weekend. I saw some incredibly beautiful engineering. Bespoke Pagani's and the like. But I saw this Rio pickup in a liquor store parking lot! Then I went to my sister's friends house and asked about this 1999 250 7.3 PS pickup that has not been registered. It has two worthless batteries. It hasn't been cranked in two years. It has 120,000 miles on it. Big tires and rims. Ridiculous smoke stacks, and probably engine mods that made it unable to be registered in the state. What's a fair price for this?

Well, you kinda got to have preload , or the bar inst supporting anything, and load isn't being fed from one side of the axle to the other. The whole point is to have the vehicle track flatter, with less roll (while still being compliant enough to hold the road!)

Back in about 1989, I rear ended a parked Bronco II while driving a 1984 Ranger (regular cab long bed 2wd with 4cyl 4spd.) It was after midnight on a pitch black road, and I was probably going 40mph-ish. I reached down to get a cassette off the floor and as soon as I lifted my head up it went through the windshield lol. I won't bore you with the gruesome details, but both vehicles were completely destroyed. The back of that Bronco was opened up like a soup can. As I was standing there in the dark, dazed and confused, listening to my antifreeze pouring out on the ground, I could hear somebody groaning. Turned out there was a guy sleeping in the back seat of this parked Bronco II. He was drunk and had pulled over to take a nap...unfortunately for me, about 3/4 of this little Bronco was still on the road (very small shoulder). I knew this road very well, and of course never expected a vehicle to be parked on it as nobody had ever parked on it lol. Anyway, lesson learned... I only bring it up since you mentioned safety. The back half of that Bronco was opened up like a soup can...it was quite amazing. The sleeping drunk didn't have a scratch on him, luckily lol. That is amazing! I wouldn't expect much strength, given how open the "bed" is. These are the sort of tests the NHSTA do hundreds of times every new model year.

Ah ok, now I understand the T-19 diagram! This is a so well known design weakness, they already illustrate it! Mine broke just above the pivot. It was inside the bellows. I took the knob and handed it to my buddy on the other side of the bench. Almost nonchalant, he took it right away. Until it sank in just what that meant.

Ford always had a reputation for actual work trucks, while Chevy/GMC were used by landscrapers to tow trailers and by excavators to carry a transfer tank to fuel their (insert equipment) I saw a retro version of the new Bronco yesterday (Greenwich Concours is this weekend, Haggerty is KILLING IT!) I really like the windows -its like a Landi Disco II- I think the little S-10 version of the Blazer just stole the market from the Bronco 2, but I can't confirm the sales figures.

Unless the shift tower breaks like the one in my 88 did. Reached over for the shifter and it wasn't there, it was laying on the floor. Fortunately I could drive home in second. They will break, mine eventually wouldn't go into first. Before I owned it that truck had a rough life! I'm glad I've never had a problem with the shifter on mine, but I did break the stick off my T-19. I'm looking forward to being back in my truck, as soon as my left knee is working again.

I stand corrected! You're doing a great job Wil! Keep on keeping on! 👍

This should get you close. Gary doesn't have an '84 up on the site but they are pretty much the same, except there was no option for 5.0 EFI in '84. https://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start--ignition-gasoline-engines.html Troubleshooting is at the end of the chapter. Let us know if you can't get it figured out.

Here's a little video from the maker of what look like Nordlock washers. I was hoping it would better explain clamping force, but it just goes n abut how their hardened washers will keep the nut from loosening, and you sre already using pervailing torque nuts.

Dentside because of the crease.

Ford trucks are set up for both EEC IV AND DS-II. The DS-II plugs will be folded back and taped into the harness. The clutch jumper goes to the reverse/gear switch on the side of the transmission, and then to the starter relay. That's why I said try it in Neutral, or try to jumper the plug at the transmission. Do you understand how to use the EVTM? It has all the troubleshooting spelled out for you.

Their oiling system and main bearings mean that they rev higher and run longer with less drag.

Good point Mat. I know that with the 460 some HEI's foul the water neck, especially if all three thermal vacuum switches are in place. As for the no crank, first try it in Neutral, and then definitely use a paperclip to jump to the (S) terminal of the relay. The fender relay may not be pulling in, and you won't find that if you just use a wrench to connect the battery stud to the starter cable. It may be that the gear position/reverse light switch is bad or out of adjustment, but let's start with the very easy stuff. Also, check the clutch jumper. Corrosion and crap can make for very bad contact. A little Deoxit D5 and working the jumper (or a spare fuse) in and out will clean it up. 😉

Hi Grant, The 351C's I've dealt with (in Pantera's) all had the regular small block bellhousing pattern. I can't speak about crank flange depth in relation to the block, but it should certainly bolt up just fine. 👍 What are your plans for the 4V Windsor?

Just pull the pulley and whack the shaft. It will push the rear bearing into the back case and separate the halves as far as the bolts allow