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How about not using something that fails all the time? Based on the experience of you two I would never buy or recommend Champion, even to someone I disliked. 🤷‍♂️ Obviously they can't get their together and produce a product that is fit for purpose, and both of you have told them there's a problem. There's probably a billion ICE vehicles on the road. None of them would have made it past a 12 month 12k mile warranty. It's obvious that building a radiator in a factory, that lasts has been a solved problem for 100 years. I haven't ever changed a leaking radiator, except because a water pump failed and the fan took it out. I still have the one from "the giving truck" hanging on the wall of the barn for -when- Stop buying hype fueled garbage that doesn't work.

Keeps your teeth clean if you swish it around and spit. Really, it's no stronger than what's in your stomach. You can test it on a pH strip.

Sounds spicy! Not sure how I feel about drum front brakes, but it is what it is... 🤔

And the two large holes are for the two air pump bypass valves. Dual A.I.R. pumps! Dual diverter valves. Both need to be vented somewhere. That somewhere is into the passenger side of the filter housing.... I got a pair of rubber plugs from the HELP section and plugged them, so I'm not drawing hot air from the engine bay.

Right, so this is good info and reason NOT TO mess with the pedal assembly .

We used to say "suck it and see!" I tasted battery acid on Monday, for the first time in a long time! Tommy thought I was crazy 🤣

Clutch or not, we want to know the mounting differences between the Bullnose pedal box and a later one. I know the steering wheel supports are different and the hole in the firewall with the boot is different because of the universal joint.

I don't know how to make it simpler Yes.

The EGR (green line) takes timed vacuum through the thermal switch in the water neck and then has a delay. You don't want it at idle. You don't want it with a cold engine. You don't want it as you're transitioning past the bleeds under acceleration. But you do want it under cruise and light acceleration.

Has anyone done a comparison with the insane electric Hummer?

I think Ford angled the holes so the firewall didn't take load directly across the two weak points vertically. Newer (angled) master cylinders use a clutch safety that mounts directly over the nub that sticks through the firewall. The casting is stronger/reinforced, the steering column hole is different and the column becomes a stub shaft with a universal joint inside the cab. But I'm not sure exactly when. I know Bill Vose has a '95 dash from "The Giving Truck" in Darth. I'm going to tag him because he can help with the detail changes.

Did the dealership give you a P/N that was unavailable? I realize it's been the better part of 40 years, and that they sold for a reason (just like the firewall plate) But I never expected that they'd be gone. I'm sure clutch shops aren't going through what you are. They might have a specialty source

Did you feel they helped? Did you do any blind testing? It certainly can't hurt, to smooth out the inlet radius. Have you studied any Ricardo? That's really getting back to basics!

I used a 9mm shell casing epoxied over the stud with steel filled Devcon, and a snap ring in the extractor groove holding in a bronze 'top hat' Oilite bushing that I epoxied into the pushrod eye. The shell lasts about 10 years depending on how much dust and grit is on your boots. To change it, just torch it off. 💡

It's called a K&N Stub Stack. You notice it at the track, and I figure anything that has a proven track record is worthwhile. Besides, it was lurking in the bowels of my track box from when I had my Notch GT. Why not put it to use? 🤷‍♂️

The over-center geometry is important. But, again, he said he bench bled it. The pushrod can't be adjusted too long or the reservoir is isolated

We don't need any titie for a vehicle over 20 (from the date of manufacture) If I tow a newer car and it sits for 90 days they just put a mechanics lien on it Apply for title and it can be sold or scrapped. I got a really nice set of factory aluminum wheels and tires for my little brother's rusty Civic. That one was old enough, -2003- that no title was needed to dispose. Or you can always cut it in half. Then it's not a car anymore, just parts or scrap (auto)

That's exciting! You know where it's going. We'd all be excited if he joined. 2 years to clear title? That's insane.

uhaultruckpartsonline, the surplus auction has a few items that are of interest. An E0TZ right front bumper bracket. An '87/ brake master for $58 delivered A set of 10 5/16 NF flywheel bolts. I'm still trying to figure out my new phone. 🤷‍♂️

oh okay yeah that would definitely be helpful. On the other side we have an extra hole next to the green thing, is it just blocked off too on yours? That is for the breather filter. There is a (sorta) curved plastic tray that holds a piece of white Scotch Brite stuff. A forked metal clip on the outside, and an elbow with a hose that goes to the breather where you fill the oil on the front of the valve cover. Do you want pictures???

That only happens if the arm to the eye of the master pushrod is terribly sloppy. But he said it's all new. So the yellow spring is out of place or missing. He can never bleed the clutch if the piston doesn't come back far enough to open the port to the reservoir. 💡

Bill now has sequential port fuel injection from a '96 Cali or Massachusetts 460. I have his air cleaner. There were two plastic elbows attached there, those hoses fed the twin air pumps. If you don't have air pumps, and want to plug the holes I can show you the rubber Dorman master cylinder seals I've used to block them off.

106A on Ryan's video, but their are different belts (like the green power equipment ones) that are meant for more abuse, more traction, whatever... Plus, you can always media blast the sheave if the LRC doesn't quite cut it. Just don't keep tightening the belt. You'll kill the front alternator bearing. I don't know what to do in a case like Jeff's where the truck sits for weeks and the battery gets neglected.

It won't come back to center unless the master cylinder pushes it back, then the spring takes over.