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The orange has been working for me & Gary. It's plenty strong but doesn't require heat to remove. Breakaway data is available on the website, and being a gel, it doesn't run. Don't we all love the sweet and acrid taste of Loctite!

Flotech seem to have paid attention to valve depth and deck to rocker boss height. 👍 Have you tried the orange gel for 'red' applications? I've gone over to PST for almost all my sealing needs, though I still use the red anerobic gasket eliminator, and that green tube, gear oil resistant RTV on the diff's Some places -like china walls- you just can't get away from ultra grey or The Right Stuff.

I figured out today that I have an 1 1/8" rear sway bar. Bushing # 8655.

I can ping Jonathan, if you like. The IDI's had a fairly massive PMGR from the jump. Most trucks didn't see them until well into the '90's as I recall. I DO remember the TSB regarding the spade connector to the starter solenoid that always ate slush and corroded to nothing. The very last T-bird I worked on was replacing the heater core in a Turbo Coupe. Man, it would have been easier to pull the engine and cut the firewall, but I got it all back together with not a single extra screw!

Diesel bellhousing is entirely different, with an inspection plate, pmgr starter and even a couple of bolt holes are not quite in the same spot. I was helping Jonathan figure out the clutch in his IDI not long ago. That DMF is crazy thick compared to my 460.

So, it's very pleasant for them! I'm surprised that 3rd world countries aren't still using lead paint. Nothing grows on that, and it lasts nearly forever. (Let me tell you about the mercury anti-fouling paint I used to grind off the bottoms of boats -with nothing but a bandana tied over my face -).

Tell them I send my welcome! I don't know how the weather is down in Tamil Nadu, but I see it's ferociously hot in Delhi. Maybe early summer in Tejas is normal for them?

Plenty of people in the 3rd world seem to like blowing things up. 😉 I sure know I do!!!

Diesel only part,... like only fits a super thick DMF? Yeah I had a shop change my clutch last year, because my ring gear was completely shot and I had nowhere but mud to lay in to do it. I bought them all new Luk parts and factory Ford place bolts for the flywheel and pressure plate. They charged $1300 and 🤬it up so bad I had to bring it back twice, and it still isn't right. NEVER AGAIN!!! I'm glad I have a really good tire shop that I can trust. (after having a local chain under inflate my new tires and bust a stud off, but put the wheel cover back on). "Oh, it happened AFTER I left your shop? Please explain HTH it isn't rattling around inside the hubcap then?!?!" 🤷‍♂️ "30 psi in my 10 ply E-rated 85 series tires??? Even an illiterate can usually match numbers on a gauge to the numbers on the door jamb.". 😖 My lifetime alignment guy suddenly retired last year. I'm not even going to attempt that with this flakey TTB suspension.

How does that #5 bore and journal look after running a bent rod for 7 years!?!?!? Damn, rods are tough! Wow, that's pretty amazing the piston could move at all! 🤯

A lumpy "hotrod" cam has lots of overlap. This bleeds compression at low rpm, and allows good filling at higher rpm, when the port velocity is high, and charge inertia is actually carrying unburned fuel into the exhaust headers. This way you can get away with 14:1 static CR (or whatever) and still not see too much at lower rpm. This is the sort of crap you need an MSD for, because nothing wants to light that charge with no dynamic compression So it tries 3 times... below 3k rpm, but then stops giving multiple sparks, because the engine is now turning fast enough to where exhaust tuning and reversion are packing charge into the cylinder from both valves. If you've never tuned an alcohol or nitro car this might seem weird, but that's how it works to make big power.

I'm kinda surprised that you can't change the cam for a sooner -or later- shot, like a Holley.... Whatever... I'm glad you seem to have it sussed now!

What is your door code? (or the code on the donor)

Bad hood seal See what I taught Gary about garage door stop....

I have what might be considered a mild towing cam. If I really romp on it I'm looking at 7-8 mpg

Absolutely true. I can cite examples of orbital trajectories that are affected by low level, but not high level (say above 60k') air disturbances.

I'm planning on Thursday afternoon (with a 'real feel' of 112°F 🥵) Don't worry. We'll figure it out.

It's literally compounded for petroleum refineries and chemical plants.

From the beginning it seemed like you were doing everything right. You're sure the master isn't moving with the firewall? I've seen where people have a damn 2x4 propped from the master to the radiator support, so they have pedal enough to get home.

"The Big One" (for severe, rather than 'moderate' damage) is a PITA, what with having to remove the steering column, the pedal box and dash to get at all the bolts. It's troubling me that the pedal won't snap back up into the rubber stop. We're all pulling for you, that's for sure!

Now I see your valve covers! Did you have trouble with fuel boiling in the bowls, or did your truck come with that heat shield?

I'm the one confused, and why I had mentioned spring width back towards the beginning of this. But I think I have a better understanding now.

So, Gary... Would you think a 2wd 250 would have the same spring, just without the block? I posted my door tag so you can see the spring code. Obviously, my phone orientation is a bit off. 🙃

That's a 750 with only single feed???

Would depend on the FA suffix, as all rear spring packs use the same basic part number. I'm not certain if the spring would be the same. 250's (4wd) got a block, and the 350's got a bigger block) because the front springs were a positive, rather than a negative arch, like found with the 250 TTB. We got pretty deep into this when I was convincing Gary to do a D60 RSK for Big Blue to have a better ride and tighter turning radius. There are obviously multiple threads about that adventure. It seems to have worked out! 💡