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I'm sure your attention to detail and 50 years of technological advancement have transformed your C6. There's really no escaping the torque converter churning a lot of power into heat. I'm not picking on something that has such history and resilience, it's just reality. And that's why we see CVT's and dual clutch 11 speed transmissions today.... The chip and solenoids to control them use far less energy than pumping fluid through labyrinth orifices and pressure valves.

Parts for these trucks and all other oldies may have a new life. A company has made a 3d printer that prints in stainless and tool steel as well as copper. Long obsolete parts could be brought back to life. Speaking of parts I have a ton of odds and ends that I have been sorting so I don't loose anything so if we need more pictures for documentation I could grab what I have while I will pretty much have every fastener out. Took this in process I have this box full pretty much. We have had many discussions about 3D printing, probably starting back when Gary designed the dash patch and I was concerned about not only build envelope but the material being able to withstand the baking sun. Shapeways can make almost anything (for a price) Porsche has been printing small volume replica metal parts for years now. Bugatti uses FEA and organic structure to print brake calipers. (They're incredibly stiff and look like something H.R. Giger would have drawn)

He's obviously chopped off the closing tag. You can see there's no ">" at the end, and none of us have any way to guess...

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/1980-86-series-new-parts-from-the-dead-tp5292p10158.html

There's a well known guy here who's pleased to tag every work as «Progress!». So I'll let him call the shot. It's a chance you didn't choose to name Oswald «Mickey». Progress is Gooood! With the bed off it's rather easy to weld in new cab corners, but I'm getting more and more comfortable with panel bonding in situations where it isn't a life safety issue (cab & seatbelt mounts for example) Doing a proper prep job insures a leak proof seal without any sealer, and I've seen sheet metal tear before the epoxy let go, as long as it wasn't a direct peel force on the joint.

Could be the timing chain is really slack too. Does it look like the water pump and chain case have been refitted? Back in the day we didn't expect to get more that 75k out of the nylon cam gear. I can only imagine how brittle one of these are now. At least it isn't an interference engine.

"You can have any colour you like, as long as it's black". (Henry Ford) 3M started their whole abrasives empire because automobiles were painted with a brush back then. They got into masking tape (and therefore adhesives) when tu-tone came on offer.

Welcome to the nut house Service Truck! Sorry for the late reply, I'm not getting notifications ATM. Bill, you have twice the tire, so half the pressure to the ground, but I would love to see a smokey 4 wheel peel into 3rd when you're ready for new tires!

1) You have a manual gearbox. There's really no advantage to Ported vacuum for advance, and if you look at the vacuum routing diagram you'll see the distributor connected to red (Manifold) vacuum, through the thermal Vacuum Control Valve. If you have a stock carburetor, and a stock distributor, the system -as a whole- is set up to perform best like that. 2)edit: yes, it should, but the idle certainly won't change if the distributor doesn't see any vacuum with the throttle closed because you hooked it to the E port on the carb. Vacuum advance is supposed to be highest with the throttle closed and go away as engine rpms (and mechanical advance) increase. This is why the routing sticker says to clamp/cap the vacuum line,, make the adjustments then reconnect the vacuum line and readjust your curb idle to 650-700 with the gearbox In neutral 3) You need a timing light to determine the amount and limits of your vacuum advance can. Mine was rusted so bad inside I couldn't even get a 3/32 Allen wrench to turn. So I bought the Crane can and a MrGasket spring kit and followed the instructions, after bushing my advance plate stop pins so I didn't get so much mechanical advance that I had to limit my vacuum to a few degrees. As Scott says mechanical advance is twice the number stamped on the plate. This is why he needs to know tire size, gearing, max rpm's, etc... With that and a straight up timing set my truck runs well and pulls hard

.... to a new engine, because gasoline is almost as bad a lubricant as blood.

If you're a Prime member, that usually requires a phone call and you'll get a positive resolution. My wife has had to do that in the past. I definitely have Prime, but no phone #. I'm too easily frustrated with situations like this to bother over $15. They've failed to deliver literally one time out of hundreds. It's not a hill to die on when you're dealing with a leviathan.

The manufacturing date should be on the door compliance sticker that also shows VWR's and tires. Here, in the upper left of the NMSH where you see "new topic" But, you're past that now, and everything is going to change when the forum moves to InVision after they write the code to do the migration. We may be offline for a bit as the DNS servers get redirected, and certificates are checked, but it should be pretty seamless.

Well, I've locked myself out of everything Google So I can't be watching my mailbox for requests from InVision, but hopefully you have time to breathe now that the grandtwins have headed back to James Island.

It's a crew cab? 3.08 because the most it's going to haul is six people and it has a C6 which has an infinitely low 1st and is never going to lock up even at 1:1 on the highway anyhow. Beyond bulletproof, the thing C6's are best at is churning horsepower into hot fluid. The truck was probably intended for getting track/rig/road workers from the shop out to a job site (this is what 4 door trucks with two benches were for, before this 21st century "lifestyle" BS)

My truck dropped off the jack a couple of weeks ago, I hadn't really appreciated the implications of my new tank going from 19 to 17ish gallons when I have no working fuel gauge and rely on switching tanks at ~165 miles. Thankfully I'm pretty attuned to reacting to fuel starvation and instinctively flip the switch, because stalling out in traffic is hazardous and it takes a lot of cranking to catch prime from 15' away with a mechanical pump. How does your wife feel about a new addition to the stable? 🤔 🤪

Yes, welcome! I'm guessing that the link in your boilerplate induction response isn't working? Gary will want to know that you understand/acknowledge the forum guidelines. It's unfortunate that this Nabble platform is often quirky, but as you can see we'll be upgrading soon. 👍 We definitely like generational projects around here. Gary kind of stumbled into these trucks by resurrecting his father's pickup into the souped up garage queen it is today. PO electrical butchery is a common theme here, and we will do our best to help! As Vinny points out, the EVTM is a good place to start. The 5.0's were the first to go to EFI so there are some subtle differences as Ford made that running change in the 1985 model year.

High idle is probably a vacuum leak. If not immediately apparent look on the right of the carb where the EGR gasket always burns through. There is a bundle of vacuum lines along with the PCV pipe, and it's not uncommon to see them melted through. Bring a can of ether and see if the engine rpm changes

Im sorry if my replies are sporatic. I've managed to lock myself out of Google so I'm not receiving any Gmail notifications or new posts. .

Ignition timing and advance always has to be confirmed before any carb adjustments are made. (ignition timing can effect carburetion, but carburetor adjustments can't effect timing)

You want to replace the timing chain set with one that's "straight up" (crank keyway pointing directly at the camshaft) This is how these engines were first built, before 1970's emissions regulations had ford holding the exhaust valve closed to allow more time for the charge to burn. I recommend a stock double roller timing set for an EFI 460 (1988 & later) These are longer lasting than a Hy-Vo type chain and factory approved! As for buying a distributor, you're going to have to give Scott all the information about your truck, how you intend to drive it & its engine. Weight, gearing, tire size, carburetor, intake, headers, compression ratio, cam, cam timing, etc... It might be wise to get all that in place before ordering. 💡

Looks like a grey regulator to me... I don't see in the listing where it tells the model #, but that's definitely a 8.25" 130A 3G alternator! No pulley installed, so you don't need to crack it off with an impact.

$45,000 if a company, and $45,000 A DAY for records keeping/falsified testing etc.. The violation for individuals is closer to $4,300 'per event' whatever that means.. If you have an adjustable advance, like Crane explains in their instructions, then start by following the directions on the emissions/vacuum diagram located on the radiator support. I usually adjust the mixture for highest vacuum, open up another 1/8-1/4 turn and set the curb idle speed per the sticker, then get into adjusting the distributor. Sometimes the slot is just too wide and you have to take it apart and either weld up the slot or bush the stop pin. Scotty has good recurve instructions! 👍 https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html https://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_page-2.html

It looks like they ground through the base flange to get the plugs out 🤔 While this is fine, it is a violation of federal law to tamper with emissions. And while I'm sure it's fine in the bayou, that wouldn't fly in Kaliphornia.

Heat is always an issue with 460's. Moreso with thinwall headers than cast manifolds. The 4180 is a federally compliant tamperproof carb. About the only adjustment you have (without modifications) is to pull or chisel out the hardened plugs covering the idle mixture screws. Then, like Gary said you're either going to have to run premium, retard the ignition advance, or both. Honestly, you'd be better served by a 600 cfm 1460, 80457-S or a 650 AVS like I gave to Vivek. At least these options are easy to tune and well supported in the aftermarket. 💡 Headers aren't going to change much of anything unless you get a hotter cam installed correctly and an intake that can flow on top.

That's the forum spirit!