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The shim can be any thin 17mm spacer (depends on how far off your pulley is) A 5/8 washer is usually sloppy enough to fit nicely. Gary got the L&L double sheave pulley that came from my kit. I think he turned the boss back to get more thread engagement, but mine has been fine for over a decade with a spot of loctite.

Exactly why I say use the slave cylinder heat shield and a reflective blanket on a smaller PMGR if you really want to run headers. Otherwise you're just setting yourself up for failure. Note that both of these are reflective (IR) and have as little thermal mass as possible.

You need to be sure the ground wire of the delay switch is firmly attached to the dashboard frame. There should be a screw by the fuse panel.

You're welcome, glad I could help!

With low mount & V-belts you're going to want a 8.25" C-C alternator, so it can swing for adjustment. This comes from the 3.8 V-6 found in 91-95 Taurus/Sable If you have a later 5.0 EFI with the top mount alternator you need the 7" mount from a 3.0 V-6 (same cars and years)

If you want to get rid of the EGR style spacer you can just tap and plug the exhaust port in the intake manifold and use a generic 1"spacer, like I got from Trans-Dapt.

A functional EGR allows a much more aggressive spark advance in cruise, This results in improved mileage and more apparent power (even with a retarded cam) By making some of the intake charge inert gases you effectively richen the mixture (of a non-adjustable carb) and stave off knock/pre-ignition from having a too lean mixture

Remind me what carb you have? Because tuning a 4180 is WAY different than a regular 1460. What cam you have that wants or could use headers? Generally they fit terribly in 4x4 trucks and most mudders just chop out the liners and run fender exit. Gary has a nice pair of L&L's that he had coated by Jet-Hot but because he isn't running raised conversion mounts he's had to clearance the frame rail on the passenger side and use an Allen head bolt in the bellhousing because there's no room at all for a socket. I would also suggest getting the actual Ford heat shield for the clutch slave and a PMGR starter with a heat blanket. 460's, even without the thermactor ports in the manifolds, run ferociously hot exhaust. (ask Bill, Gary, Vivek, anyone..)

Okay, there's no point in capping the EGR itself, or the check valve at the thermactor crossover to the back of the heads (it's a check valve!) Nor the yellow and blue vacuum trees on the water neck. If you don't have vacuum going to them, there's nothing to leak. The rusty little line on the passenger side of the engine bay tees (Y's) to the rollover vent on both tanks. Yes, that's what connects to the charcoal canister.

I don't recognize the 3A20 number, but the module is pretty much a cap that is charged by the potentiometer in the switch, this triggers a long enough pulse to move the wipers off park, they then cycle back to park. Be aware the later motor uses a different plug.

So instead of fixing that weakness they just put "Do Not Drop" on the outside:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig: Most of us just wrap it in foam rubber and tuck it up behind the fuse panel. 🤷‍♂️ Definitely not one of Ford's "better ideas" I've certainly 'fixed' a lot of them.

EGR should never be active at idle, that's why it's ported and on a delay as well as a thermal switch. If it shuddering and clears up as you open the throttle it sounds rich to me.

Used to be "go to the paper catalog" but Moog has a page where you just punch in the dimensions of the caps and distance across. https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/universal-joints-ujoints.asp

I've also heard that "balls to the wall" came from aircraft, circa WWII. In cars we talk about "flooring it" meaning push the throttle pedal to the floor. In aircraft the throttle is a lever that you push forward to open it up. All the way forward would be to the firewall. I've heard the term "firewall it" meaning open the throttle all the way comes from this. And since there was typically a ball-shaped handle on top of the lever, and there'd be multiple levers (and therefore multiple balls) if there were multiple engines, "balls to the wall" was also said to come from that. But that's just what I've heard, I have no way to verify it. Pardon me, the term is "balls out' https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centrifugal_governor

Ford is notorious for combination "bastard" U-joints. Not difficult to find, but good to make note of (I usually tear the flap off the box and toss it in the glove box, so I don't have to figure it out again)

I'm not sure...

Go to the Navi-Gates application on the Gates belts website. They show all the different configurations and their numbers for the belts. It used to just be a page.... Of course now they want you to load their junk onto your phone! https://www.gates.com/us/en/knowledge-center/mobile-apps/navigates.html

The module is on a metal stalk attached to the parking brake assembly. The shock of releasing the pedal is what cracks the solder joints on the heatsink inside.

Just a guess, but if it's spring loaded and flattens as engine speed increases I'd guess it's a governor, that opens a valve to release pressure as speed increases. but that's just a guess. It's called a flyball governor and throttles steam to the cylinder. When running, the lift of the spinning balls will lessen the orifice that steam has to pass into the engine. This is where we get the term "balls to the wall" when flat out. It's also why The Hartford Steam Boiler corporation became The Hartford Insurance corporation. All along the rivers in Connecticut water power gave way to steam I'm the mills and factories. Unscrupulous owners or foremen would lash the balls down to make machinery run faster. But this increased pressure and steam boilers would regularly explode with catastrophic results to life and property. The boiler company had to protect itself from legal actions, this Hartford became the Defacto seat of the insurance industry in the US.

Try turning the knob counter clockwise. If it does, the truck has intermittent wipers, and you need to get the speed governor that is screwed to the parking brake, as well as the grounded wiper switch.

Yeah, but the Dorman # will cross at any parts store

I notice there's a place in Allston that has both regular and HD springs for '80-'96 F-150 4x4's listed. 43-713. 1785# 43-713HD 2450#

Have you considered going to an actual spring shop? There are places that work on more than heavy duty trucks, and I know you live near a major city not out on the back of beyond.

These sort of sponsored content fundamentals were fixtures in trade schools and shop class (remember those?!? ) Thank you Mr. Hamon, Mr Krol & Mr.Gavin!

Not steam, but if you're into vintage machinery and engines, and happen to be in the Litchfield hills. https://ctvisit.com/listings/connecticut-antique-machinery-association-museum And next door: https://ctvisit.com/listings/connecticut-antique-machinery-association-museum