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Nice 👍 In all reality these were probably made by either Delphi, Tyco or Amphenol and are probably discontinued. Quite possible! Back in those days Allied Signal, Eaton Controls and TRW were big players as well. I have never bought terminals from either, but I know that Auveco has some unique fasteners and rubber that I can't find at C&F... and vice versa. So it's worth a look there if you don't find what you need. 💡

Fuse 18 provides the power to pull in the oil pressure switch It also powers the carburetor bowl vent solenoids... See the grey box lower right.... What Im saying is that while the starter is engaged (and 'I' is energized) the fuel pump has 'turbo' mode to quickly fill the carburetor bowls, if the truck has been sitting and the fuel evaporated. One of the tricky things about reading the EVTM's is that it only shows you the circuit being discussed. There may be other circuits in a certain connector, but only wire '123' is shown.

Here's that fuselink 'T' on the right. You can see power from the 'I' terminal bypasses the 'resistor in run' part of the circuit that is completed when the oil pressure switch back by the firewall closes, feeding the selector switch on the climate control through a resistor. The switch valve and pumps are shown with the senders With that wire disconnected the pumps won't run to prime the carburetor, and if it doesn't built enough oil pressure while cranking to close the switch they won't ever run. You can (A) Prime the carb yourself through the vent tubes front and rear of the carb throat. (B) Jumper the oil pressure switch that is adjacent to the sender, behind the EGR valve, close to the firewall. I hope this helps.

Don't forget Auveco. https://www.auveco.com/products/electrical/terminalsandwireconnectors/oemshellsandterminals I think many Clips & Fasteners are just reboxed Auveco product.

Hi Jeremy, In earlier Hot Fuel Handling systems the (I) wire provides full current directly to the fuel pumps (prime while cranking) This is because there's not yet any oil pressure to pull the safety relay closed Also, while running the pumps get power through a* resistor. Whether this effects pressure or volume or both I'm not sure, because my truck has a mechanical pump. But I do know that delivered volume is supposed to be a quart in 15 seconds (60 gph)

I'm 'glad" that I'm familiar with the 2G alternator. But even more glad that it wasn't anything major, and a simple fix for you!

Off by an order of magnitude!

So 80ml per 100 miles x 30 = 1.8l I'd imagine more loss at higher rpm where the crankcase has less time to equalize to atmosphere between power events. Yet the engine held together with almost no oil. Gary offers good advice. Enjoy your vacation and keep an eye on the oil level when you fuel up Do the leakdown when you get back.

ALL cylinders... Just because #8 has to eat all the blow-by doesn't mean that the other 7 cylinders aren't contributing. With that much pressure I'm surprised that you don't have leaks everywhere F&R main seals, valve covers , etc... But to come up almost 4 quarts short is something I've never seen unless there was a hole in a piston, a head gasket let loose or ....

You've already said you never lost oil pressure.... If bearings were wiped, you would lose pressure -OR- If you lost oil pressure you'd expect wiped bearings and attendant metal in the oil. If oil is going through #8 (or even all cylinders) then it is being "burned" You seem to have so much blow-by that a PCV system can't handle it and you need a catch bottle or oil/vapor separator.... If that's so, there's only one cause and that's terrible ring seal. It could be scored cylinders, but you say no metal, no odd noises. Do yourself a favor before patching another symptom. Conclusively determine the cause of crankcase pressure and address the cause.

How much did you put in before? If it isn't leaking it then you must be burning it. As long as the sump pickup is submerged you'll have oil pressure, even if you only have 2/5 of what you're supposed to have. That 2 quarts/liters will be doing more than twice the work it's destined for and only able to carry less than half the heat away, like it should. As I said the rings need to seal, and in order to get a ring seal not glaze, you need to break in with enough cylinder pressure to force the rings into the cylinder walls. Have you done a leakdown? (especially on #8)

Honestly, I'm just ass-u-me-ing they're related and not coincidental... Thank you for the link! Edit: I'm not seeing any valve or gear housings that the instructions say to replace. From what I understand, either the port is clogged or there's enough debris that the piston can't shift 'right'.

Evidently, when my power steering pump ate itself it 'shared the wealth ' with the spool valve in my sector box. (I did flush the lines) The truck steers left, but no assist going right. I'm not sure if a spool valve is available, or if I just need to clear whatever shard and reseal. I know about stretching Teflon seals, but I've never been in there.... So I understand in theory from the exploded diagrams, but....

Amazon is weird with dimensions. Sometimes it's the package size, sometimes it makes no sense at all! But it does say that it fits 1980, so if it's wrong they're good about returns. (Usually 😡!!!)

I'm pretty sure that Bill does have some part numbers (but maybe I'm mistaking Chisler terminals?)

Digiley has a boatload of connectors as well.... https://www.digikey.com/en/products/category/contacts/2008?_gl=1%2A152e2v%2A_up%2AMQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwzIK1BhAuEiwAHQmU3kQF0_KQHWkuTlr3zb0qaBpWvt3Te0P6u5WVg4HoUVC9VWvJVfBvvhoCuUQQAvD_BwE

It takes a lot of talent, I'm sure! I used to like going to live steam events. There were always a few that had running models of 'classic or pivotal' steam and hit-or-miss engines. I didn't know the difference, but I understood that X or Y was an example of some gigantic things that changed the world. From Newcomben's (?) steam pump that cleared the water out of coal mines to steam engines like the Tod that drove hundreds of rolling mills in the heyday of steel.

I had that model kit as a kid. Later, in the early '80's, I met an IBM machinist that had built a running V-8 that was 4-5" long! Pistons, connecting rods with caps, valves, cam, pushrods, ALL of it! 🤯

Chris Huske 3D prints a repair hinge for these. He & his partner took the time to make sure the geometry is correct. You can see it in the marketplace.

By 87, the charge indicator bulb holder *should* have a 512ohm resistor bridge across the back of it.

"I love you forever!".

I hope it's as simple as a fuse or the bulb in the green wire circuit. When you turn the key on electricity flows through the filament, and when the alternator starts charging both ends are at the same potential, so the bulb goes out. Again, I don't exactly know the Little Bronco, but that's how it is in pickups/FSB and Crown Vic s, Cougars, T-bird's and Lincoln MK's of that 2G era.

Please let us know how it works out for you and leave a vendor review in the marketplace section.

Honestly the 2G is a hazard. There are good reasons for the TSB's about these starting fires. Gary has them well documented in the 3G upgrade tab at the top of the page.

This is a 2G alternator? (sorry I'm not familiar with the Bronco II) At the rectangular plug you should have two 10G bk/or wires that splice to a single fuse link and a W/B stator wire. The regulator plug should have yellow (sense) green/red (excite, ignition on) and typically the W/B stator wire, but Gary has documented cases where there are only 2 wires at the regulator. In any case, verify that the green wire is power in run. On trucks with idiot lights if the battery/charge warning light burns out the truck will not charge, until 'something' energizes the stator, but once charging it will bootstrap itself.