ArdWrknTrk

Fuel is black, oil is blue. Blue smoke on startup = intake guide seals. The engine probably got a rattle can rebuild when they changed out the stripped cam gear and (hopefully) cleaned the shreds out of the sump pickup. ATF isn't going to hurt anything. If anything it will keep the rings free and the valve stems lubed, like Lucas sells in a bottle for $25!

Rivets expand to absolutely fill the hole. That's why all the crossmember TSB's require you to ream the hole to size and drive the bolt in with a drilling hammer.

You say you have a half dozen 4180's! http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/laughing-25-x-25_orig.gif They're pretty much all the same. The one on my 85 GT had 4 corner idle, but these trucks ones don't. Anyway, in the pic above you can see E uncapped Here's all the ports in the carb and spacer:

Does this mean drain back would occur when the can fills up entirely or a combination with the can filling up... ? It makes sense for the PCV hose to be higher to allow drain back with or without catch can. Plenty of vehicles with MAF TSB's. You know the MAF isn't fouling itself! The problem is the PCV passing too much oil, ultimately that there's TOO much blow-by because of crappy rings, cylinders or pistons push a lot of mist & vapor .

It's 4-way in the front intake runner. You can see it in his routing diagram. But it doesn't really matter, as long as it's full manifold vacuum.

Where is your ignition timing set? 8,10,12° BTDC??? How is it with the vacuum advance connected?

Gary's going to say that you need to go to the new members section to read and acknowledge the forum rules, and make an introductory post, like the boiler plate member response said.... I'm going to suggest that you get a 5 pin HEI module from an '80 Tornado and a relay triggered by the (I) terminal of the fender relay to ground. This should retard the HEI while cranking, and make things a lot easier for you.

The PCV pipe needs to go to the big nipple in the base* flange, like you had it The (code red) manifold vacuum should be coming from one of the vacuum trees like your diagram shows, but could go to the small nipple to the left of PCV. The timed vacuum port (E) by the choke would be for EGR and should be capped if you're not using it.

D3AE-B blocks were one year wonders to allow the FMX tranny to bolt to the 400. My buddy Joey had a Cougar with one, and a bunch of Pantera's went to them if the class allowed the displacement. No holes in the outside pattern...

Does this mean drain back would occur when the can fills up entirely or a combination with the can filling up... ? It makes sense for the PCV hose to be higher to allow drain back with or without catch can. In racing oil separators are set up like a cyclone to drain back into the engine. It would be stupid to have it fill up and just be carrying around oil that isn't doing anything for lubrication. Taken to the extreme you have dry sumps that reduce/eliminate windage losses, but the pump is drawing from that reservoir, like 5.0 high pressure fuel pumps. If you really get crazy you put a vacuum on the whole crankcase reducing pumping losses as pistons rise and fall, shifting air around in the block.

Just shift every wire over one terminal and you'll have another 45° of adjustment. 💡👍

Heat can definitely be an issue if you don't know enough to demand the proper thermostat. Unfortunately Ford in one of their crackhead moments didn't decide to make them entirely incompatible with the Windsor. (Yes, I understand the advantages of commonality wrt springs and wax pellets, but you'd think a three bolt flange could have a shape like a Wankel rotor or something, so they couldn't be mixed)

Haha! No problem Gary! I know y'all are so excited about my "plug'n play 3G swap" that any post I make is considered as a step in that direction. But no, not right now guys. Be patient one more day: 1- Yesterday, I reinstalled the C-610 connector in Big Bro, since the original was butchered in the past. And I need the "male" side properly installed in the truck in order to plug the futur 3G harness. 2- It's raining A LOT here today, no garage at our chalet, so I have to wait until tomorrow (maybe this afternoon?) to step in the 3G swap project itself. For now, the goal of this specific thread is not about the 3G project, it is only focussed on the C-610 connector restoration. Proceeding to this reconstruction, I was wondering about the "female" side of that connector (the 1G alternator side). I have absolutely no question about the "male" side (the truck side), all clear for me. And the more I read, the more I realize that I correctly understood the "female" harness wiring, yep there are 4 wires splined at S-202, including the Big Yellow one. I admit I should have started with the EVTM diagram... The other sources are correct but much more difficult to follow. Here below, I colored separately the "male" and "female" sides of the famous C-610 connector. I'm confident that I restored the wiring correctly, these EVTM diagrams are matching with the other ones I previously look at. The female side of C-620: And the male side of C-610: If nobody has objection, at soon as the rain slows down I'll reconnect the battery and try a start. For the 3G swap itself, I'll return to the «Big Brother is going 3G» original thread. I would generally say "cab side" and "engine side" as, often enough, the male plastic housing has female wire terminals and the 'shell' or female plug has male pins.... Oh well.... off to the actual job at hand!

And now you are with Rene....

I've seen them in vans, but never in a pickup.

I had a buddy in Florida who owned two Pantera and a gold head E-type Jag. Somehow all of them died of neglect when he hopped on the crazy train. (this is the same guy who got his AMX stuck so high in a tree he needed to hire a crane and a tree surgeon to recover it!) Wild times!

The valve is going to be oily, that's it's job. I'm not sure what you mean by "all kinds of smoke/vapor/blow-by" There's always going to be some. No engine has 100% ring seal. Maybe you should do a leak down, or at least compare all 8 cylinder compression numbers? A quart every tank!?!? Something is very wrong.

My buddy Theo has a Boss GT Fastback rotting in his garage.... 😢 At least the garage roof and door got replaced last year, but the damage is done.

The 4V C heads flowed hugely better than the later 2V (M) Who can forget the Boss 351's we saw in the early '70's? More compact and higher revving that the 385 engines, they were the weapon of choice in SCCA and drag racing. Also chosen for the Pantera, Detomaso's semi-factory hypercar that could be found at your Mercury dealer.

You need to partner up with Rene on the vanishing oil. I don't see how you could be burning a quart every 300 miles and not have a huge blue cloud following you everywhere. Valve guide seals would be smokey when you started the Bronco and when you let off the throttle (intake vacuum sucks oil past the guides) But if it's not on the ground and your plugs look good the only other place it could be going is into the coolant system. Is your antifreeze murky brown? Do you have an oil slick on top if you remove the radiator cap? The PCV is meant to be a controlled vacuum leak that allows engine vacuum to pull combustion byproducts and condensation vapor out of the crankcase before it creates sulphuric acid in the sump. Is the PCV hose full of oil? Not oily, as normal, but like you're using it as a funnel. Again, you'd see this coming out the exhaust and your plugs would foul.

Okay, now I'm looking at this... .... and don't understand how he expects to switch from one vacuum source to the other if there's no line there (crossed out) But that still doesn't explain the pulsing vacuum as the engine warms up. This VCV isn't supposed to open until the engine starts overheating (above 225F or so) If it were the blue VCV that controls EGR and opens as the engine reaches operating temp (like 185-190F) I could grasp why it would make a difference The pulsing thing, I still need to get a handle on. Is it at 16"hg and spikes up? Or is there a pressure spike (vacuum disappears)

Yeah, Ford started putting the 351W in vans while they were still using the 360 and 390 FE engines in the pickups. When they switched away from the FEs in pickups they didn't have the capacity on the Windsor line to keep up with car and van needs while adding the pickups. As I recall they modified the Cleveland engine and line to make the pickup motors, hence 351M. A few years later cars weren't using many V8s anymore and the Windsor line could keep up, so they dropped the poorly executed 351M. But my gosh that 400 was in a lot of cars and trucks back in the late 70's - early '80's I don't remember many being broken either. Maybe I'm too young to have been paying much attention. Maybe they were just the right balance of torquey and underpowered to keep from self destructing? Certainly the 351C had a reputation! The Carolina van looks like a really cool glamping rig. I'm drooling over all that shop space and wondering what the interior window/passthrough is for?

LOL... Well Vinny, you're only 6 years back at this point! Chop, chop!

Were all here to help one another. I don't care if you were raised by girl scouts or wolves, but it's a real challenge to diagnose anything over the internet. We all have to be on the same page. 1) So now you understand why I was saying "the little blue plastic orifice", and didn't mean the blue VCV? By "elbow" do you mean the rubber 90° at the vacuum advance can??? This keeps the routing neat but shouldn't effect function. 2) 16-18, flickering and worse as it gets hot is not good. A gasket leak won't cause jumping, just a low reading Bad intake valves, loose timing chain or an outrageously hot cam with a ton of overlap will. You need to mess with the mixture screws to try and find the highest and most steady vacuum. 3) Hose size really shouldn't matter. Vacuum works on potential, a larger hose should simply add volume to the system, not change anything. Are we looking at the Crane Cams pdf of their adjustable vacuum advance for Ford & Mercury? You understand that you need to be sure the valves and timing chain are in perfect shape before ANY ignition or carburetor adjustments Like I said above the springs come in a set sold by MrGasket (928G) that doesn't seem to be in stock anywhere until the middle of September.. You can get a pair of light springs and use one, but I have one medium and one light in my dizzy.to get some advance in quickly.and all in by 3k Be sure to buy the ones marked Ford/Mercury You may need to weld up the slot or bush the stop ear with a brass tube or piece of plastic fuel line to limit mechanical advance.(Scott says how many thousandths of an inch per degree) Here are some other instructions: https://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?22229-The-Ultimate-Duraspark-Distributor-Timing-Guide .

Well done! 👍 I think I ground the rivets out and used elevator bolts when I first did mine (my 87 may be slightly different) Ultimately I got hold of a 2009 F-150 lower shaft that has universals at each end and welded the pinch spline onto that.