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I well remember when you couldn't get to the emergency room right across the bridge. Charleston is literally a delta, it's no wonder that flooding is a big issue when offshore storms drive tidal surge and back it up (even without 25"/625mm of rain!) IDK what the total elevation is at James Island, but I hope they heed evacuation orders if they come. Mother nature is powerful and unforgiving.

Sounds likely, as I'm pretty sure you stay on top of oil consumption. My those pistons seem tight at BDC. 😳 I have to assume they're cast, or they would have scuffed much worse than you seem to describe.

Was the cam subject to very strong valve springs and/or lifters that were bottomed out? Even if the cam lobes look fine, the bearings are much softer. It only takes a few really laboured cold starts where oil pressure doesn't build immediately. And once they're worn you never see the same dynamic oil film. Which rings were worn? The top ring is assume as cylinder pressure is meant to get behind it and force it into the walls. If there was still leaded fuel those exhaust seats & valves would look as good as the intakes. Not that I'm suggesting we go back to poisoning our water, roadsides or ourselves, but there it is.

Oh my, that is a big list! I'll need to add many of those to my watch list... You can't overlook Ab Fab!

From what I can understand, you are using the can to adjust your timing. It doesn't work that way.... You need to be turning the whole distributor to set the timing. Then, I would suggest following the instructions as to how much vacuum advance you can get away with, given the gearing, tires, load, the fuel you use and your driving style. They are a concise, succinct, step by step guide to optimizing your ignition timing. There's really nothing for me to add.

My sister in laws wedding is tomorrow in down town Charleston. We are expecting up to 20 inches of rain this week from Debby Fun fact her soon to be mother in law's name is also Debbie.... And the forecast has her hooking right into port Thursday. My sister lives in the aptly colloquial 'Duck Ditch' I imagine she will be riding it out in her attic. I've never seen fuscia before. The footnote on that chart says "maximum 26.55". ⛈️🤯

Vacuum advance is meant to be additional to static and centrifugal advance. It is NOT a means of achieving static timing.

I wish you safe harbour Shaun! 🙏 This one may pass north, but Gary's daughter in James Island is in for it, it seems. "From Savannah, Georgia, north through Hilton Head Island and Charleston, South Carolina, the Weather Prediction Center is calling for accumulations of 20 to 25 inches, with higher totals possible in some areas. Moreover, it is possible that these high rainfall totals extend dozens of miles inland."

Don't leave it deadheaded for too long, the pump relies on flowing fuel to keep itself cool.

Progress is Gooooood!

Shouldn't make any difference. The vacuum is still there at idle, it's just that the port is up in the transfers (above the closed throttle blade)

If you're going TBI make sure the regulator is good. They're kinda notorious for failing, and then fuel just circulates without any pressure for the injection.

Forging should still leave a line.... So, your 5" cutoff disc is thicker than.045"??? I've got a 7 & a 9" grinder and a gas powered 14" Stihl, you might remember when I cut The Giving Truck to pieces.

Good luck!

He looks so happy that he's getting some love and attention! My dog was a pup born to a very pregnant dog that got caught up in a police raid. Because I knew those guys, I got a 5am call to "come get this bitch, because the pound will put her down" Momma was very sweet and I took my pick of six. (To be honest, she picked me! We bonded right away ) Yeah, you shouldn't be using the vacuum can to adjust static timing. Back the can off, turn the distributor itself to set base timing. (I like about 12°) THEN set curb idle speed with the throttle stop, 750 is ok, Play with the mixture screws looking for highest vacuum. Adjust curb idle, twiddle the mixture screws, back & forth until you see best vacuum. Then I like to open them both 1/8-1/4 turn just so I'm not running too lean. Then reconnect the vacuum can and reset curb idle to 750 (I like to be a bit lower myself) Then, you can get to following those instructions from Crane, so you don't melt a piston.

I'll add to what Gary said, I'm used to it rattling in neutral and if I lug my truck below 1,800 Rollover noise is common, but the Zf-5 has a whole spectrum of recommended lubricants. The Ford fill tag says "Use Type H" but according to Zf you can use gear oil up to 90W. You can also intentionally over-fill it from the shifter tower. (diesel guys seem to do this without ill effect) Remember that the top starter bolt comes from the rear, and the lower from the front. If you're going to take it off, replace it with a PMGR. There's no comparison. I wish I still had all the clusters I've messed with trying to get my fuel gauges to work. Unfortunately I binned 3 when I last went to the barn to get Vivek his 650 AVS. Replace those U-joints before the vibration tears up the output bushing of your transfer case. Slather the linkage of the gear selector stick and push it side to side until it frees up and I bet there is no problem getting the truck into 4hi, neutral or 4lo. Generally it is just the gate on the side of the transmission, but I'm not there looking at it so my wife is not gospel.

I'd be careful with copper. It is the more noble of two metals and will eat the iron right out from underneath it if it gets wet. (You're making a battery)

Okay, it seems close enough that we can assume the outer ring hasn't slipped. What a cutie! So affectionate. I had a rednose, that was my constant companion. She was the most attentive and easy going dog I've ever had..

50W RMS seems plenty for a regular cab, it seems it's enough for a crew cab as well!

Can they transfer the wires to your local store? It would be a lot easier than chasing all over the county. Maybe you can to buy online and set the purchase for local pickup?

Do you have a NAPA in your area? I like the NAPA Belden Premium wires. The fit right and last at least a decade. My plug recommendation would be NGK V-power copper core plugs. I use UR-4 (I think these cross to their modern 6610, but please check to be sure)

Which sub woofer did you go with Jeff?

I generally choose not to participate in "humanity"

Try the Diablo carbide sawzall blade for thick metal. When I had to cut through the forged suspension components of my brother's car it was astounding how easy it went after hours of instantly dulling and overheating conventional bi-metal blades..

Not a moment too soon, huh? A foot of rain and weeks of flooding, isn't uncommon for a hurricane, but it seems there's a lot of energy in the atmosphere lately. Good luck!