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I'm sorry, I don't know. I know they have a huge selection, and this is where I got my silver contact starter relay.... back when I actually use the fender relay. They also have a wide selection of battery isolators and all the industrial Cole-Hersee and White-Rodgers controls You should really have a look at their whole catalog

We hit 31 this morning. Might as well have been 10 degrees. haha. 16 with a 'feels like' of 6 when I got off an hour ago. Yesterday I was saying how well my ZF has been treating me. This morning on my way home, BANG and both rear wheels lock up..... So hard that it tossed my cell phone from from its holder and threw it up onto the windshield. Now I have gear noise on trailing throttle, Pings from the drive shaft. It doesn't seem to matter if I'm in gear or in neutral. Pinion play is excessive but not terrible backlash. And they just unlocked the door at AutoZone....

Have a look at the massive relay selection from Texas Industrial Electric https://www.texasindustrialelectric.com/relays.asp

I do the best I can to offer service in a professional manner. I realize these people are having a bad day (night?) but I've got to admit that when some idiot launches themselves into the woods I'm not always happy to deal with the carnage. Sometimes I'd rather be slogging through brush than crawling on the side of a highway with semi's ripping past my head at 75.

It's 15F with a 'feels like' of 5°... I'm stuck in a truck until 8am. Unless I get some stupid long haul. Then I don't get back 'til whenever.... Laying in the snow and slush (it's mostly solid at these temps) to hook a car is NO FUN at all. 😒 I need the $, but this just sucks.

If everything is functional now, leave it alone. You're going to open a can of worms.

Here's what the cover of my '87 looks like.

EGR isn't causing your carb to overflow. Check the float isn't hanging on a gasket or something...

What does the inside of an 80-86 fuse box cover look like?

Lol! I’ve been there, what a bad feeling when your invincible truck is, well, really stuck, deep in the woods. A little stress, let’s say… In the towing business it's always exciting when some citydiot decides because they have four wheel drive they can go as fast as they want, under all conditions. Four-wheel drive doesn't mean you have four wheel stop.... And anti-lock brakes on black ice are just going to let you slide as far as you possibly can.

No It would be entirely separate from any schematic. Just a page by itself with graphic proportional representation of the PDC and a legend at the side/bottom defining each component Just like my Ford fuse box cover.

I have a Sears charger from the '80's w/70A boost, 12V 2 & 10A automatic and 6V 2A. It works great, but is affected by bitter cold. As for Joe Lucas, he was not wrong about + ground but things like Zener diodes and switches were definitely sub-par. The old trope about triumph/BSA having a 3-positon light switch (Dim, Flicker & Off) was not off-base!

Methinks you'll be re-writing the entire EVTM, and adding an appendix.... Annotations are great, but thinking about a future 'me' having to make sense of a mad scientist previous owners modifications, what would be most helpful is a accurate graphic of the entire PDC with fuses and relays called out at the margin (not unlike the graphic of my fuse panel) You could even take a picture of it and reduce everything in greyscale, then overlay numbers or letters on that image. You could even take a page from Ford and use F for fuse, R for relay or B for breaker F-17 for example..... Definitely have this on the same physical page. Nothing is more infuriating than having to look away while you're puzzling your way though a broken (X) The schematic is "helpful" but it doesn't help me much when I'm under the hood trying to decipher a fault.

I've considered making something like a spud wrench to turn the knobs when it's bitter and my hands don't work, but I always have my tiny Channelocks and just slip them open. I don't care a bit about appearance and I'm not going to ever read the brass knobs. I'm really surprised that there's a market for a niche item like that, but thanks for bringing it to our attention.

Welcome! We'll be glad to offer answers. This is the #1 place for documentation of these trucks. I hope you have fun with your newfound franken-truck! (does she have a name yet?)

Mine's been tight for 13 years. Use the blue gaskets and don't over torque the screws and warp the body or strip the threads

1) No 2) Yes

You have HEI or DuraSpark? Sounds like the white and red wires aren't crossed at the module. (Yes. I know this is crazy, but true...)

I lucked out and got my 4x4 Zf from a muffler shop that parted out it's completely destroyed plow truck. ($100!!!) I had plans to rebuild it but when I snapped the input off my T-19 I threw it in there and changed out the strawberry milkshake. That was almost exactly 13 years ago and aside from rollover rattle at idle it keeps plugging away.

I don't have an AC truck so I didn't realize it's a two pole Selector. Thanks for taking the time to clear that up for me.

Gary, In this illustration how come there's functions duplicated left and right, but no speed selector connected to the resistor pack????? 🧐

I've seen your grounding scheme and have to say it's a far sight better than stock! You could probably add a jumper from 701 to any of your added cab grounds. I have to remain conscious of the braided strap between the pinch* weld below my driver's floor and the left cab support getting corroded. I'm just pointing out what I've done, and how it improved the blower situation in my truck. (I have a new screen protector and it's VERY FRUSTRATING 😖)

They are WAY harder to find than a Mazda box! 4x4 doubly so, up here where winter happens. I have one for my buddy with a Flareside that needs welding because the apes at the yard "missed" a bolt before trying to yank it out with the yard crane. Morons ...... 😡

I wouldn't. But I probably would use something like orange gel or the old fashioned 6xx series bearing & sleeve mount products to hold the stud in the stick.

You can set the ignition switch by loosening the two 10mm nuts and inserting a pin through the hole in it before tightening them back down. Gary has photos and step by step somewhere here on the forum.