kramttocs

I will have to check if it's an m8 or 10. I have a step bit I just bought so it should be nice and sharp.

Also just noticed it has later model taillights but the arches in the original photos look correct. Just pointing it out.

Sounds/looks like it won't be a driver without a bit of work so depends upon if that was the selling point. I've never heard of an 86 460 fuel injected so I would question that. Maybe if it was really late 86? Something is going on with the bed also. Those welded on brackets make it look like it had a flatbed at one time. I've never looked for those fenders to see if they ever come up for sale but on most of the dually pickups I've seen they look about like that one. All that aside, for 500 and only 20 minutes away, it wouldn't be a bad buy. Looks fairly well optioned and one could very easily get their money back from it. All depends upon if you want a project or want to part it out for both yourself and to sell.

I completely missed this. Thanks Bruce, that is a good point when sticking with the carb setup.

I had a hard time spending $3000+ just for OD and not be able to split all the gears if I wanted to. Thing is it cant be used with an auto but can be with stick & 4x4. I am sure this virus messed up them building the OD unit and why I don't have it yet. Yes the shifter(s) will be fun to deal with. I have a different hump cover that has the transmission opening back farther so may not have to cut that big a hole for that. I have also seen different mods to the OD stick to move it to the center more if needed. I would love to shift it with an electric motor like a 2sp rear axle. I found that the early ones were electric shift but had a high failure rate so they went with the stick. I might be able to get one to work but I am seeing them for about $400 and up so don't need to electric shift it that bad LOL I forgot the GVOD unit replaced the tail housing with an adaptor so cant check the speedo. Dave ---- Dave - I am excited to see it when you get it - hopefully this all clears up sooner rather than later and they can ship it out. Piddled around a little bit in the shop this afternoon. Blasted and coated the new crank pulley, hooked up the sub to test it for fun, and redid/hooked up the trailer wiring at the bumper. The truck has the towing package and I believe Ford left the end back by the bumper as just 8 wires for the owner to tie into. At some point in the truck's history a PO did a number of wiring additions but fortunately they did a really good job overall and it was easy to remove them. The only problem one was a scotchlock that caused the wire to split when I removed it. I only bring that up to say that person also updated/changed the trailer connector (at the rear) to bullet connectors. I can tell because the connectors and crimp style all match the other wiring mods. I don't care to have a cluster of 8 bullet connectors all taped up so switched them two 4 pin MetriPack 280 connectors. Even though the red/lg isn't used I put it in one of the plugs since a use case may come up for it later. Not anything exciting but just adding it for my own notes. I didn't post anything in the threads but thanks to David I have the in bed spare tire holder. My dual exhaust is preventing me from adding the spare under the bed - something the exhaust guy and I talked about so knew it going in. I actually don't care a ton for it under there for a few reasons so was OK losing it. I wasn't ever planning to do the mounted in bed style though and was going to get a toolbox but a couple weeks ago decided to hold off on that. Then lo and behold David posted the in bed carrier. The only things I don't have right now is the bolt, that square piece in the back that stops it from spinning and the factory padlock. The bolt I am holding off on until I see what length I need for the Alcoa rim, the square piece I will make, and I just can't get myself to spend the money on the padlocks right now... I would like some feedback on this part though. I absolute hate to drill into the bed rail and lower side of the bed but that's unavoidable (unless I talk myself out if it) so here are my questions/comments. 1. The bulkhead has line x over the top but the sides do not. Thinking that I should linex the L shaped bracket and the upright. Thoughts being that this would help prevent scratches on the white bedside rail as well as be more durable to tire rubbing than powder coating them. Plus it would be less metal on metal all around. The next two are google worthy but I trust you guys more 2. What is the best way to drill a hole in the bed rail without the paint chipping? Small pilot hole and then tape over it when I drill it larger? 3. To prevent rust, would some white touchup paint (got some after the truck was painted) be the right thing to go around the bare metal inside the holes with? Let it dry and then install the bracket.

I don't recall and I really don't know anything about saginaws or various bracket setups. Trying to pick up some knowledge lately. Hopefully Bill is correct and you can just flip the bracket. If not but the bracket is removable, sounds like new bracket fab time. If the bracket is fixed, I think adding an intermediate bracket/strap would be a good solution.

Has anyone ever done both a serpentine and a Saginaw conversion before? Jim - I think that is what you are getting at also?

With it only being 20 miles, I'd consider just towing it or trailering it.

No, looks like it excludes the monobeam/D60 1 tons.

How far away is it?

Very impressed Bill! Found this photo of it From here: https://www.suicideslabs.com/dw/engine/drd460/460.htm Seeing how far that compressor goes back towards the exhaust ports, going to likely pass on this setup. Looks like it would be crowding the headers and may even get into the steering on a pickup. Guess I could pull an a6 in the jy and test fit it for a better idea but doesn't seem like a great truck setup.

Good call Jim. Assuming that's the double ended stud bolt, I've been bitten by that one before when I found out the 460's had two different sizes for that hole. Bill - it looked like the compressor would be about in the same spot as the factory PS pump on my truck now. Is the A6 anything special? Not wanting to have some odd configuration so if this isn't hands down an all around upgrade, I won't bother pulling it. The Saginaw is on my possible upgrade list but don't want to downgrade the compressor as a tradeoff.

Looks like a lot of fun! Don't forget to throw in some jumper cables in case.

Excellent! I really enjoyed meeting Scott last fall. Very nice guy. Could you know explain some more on where the doubled ended threaded rod goes? I have only seen the j bolts used. Or did I miss a post and this something made for the custom holddowns? Edit: I guess I skipped over the word 'make' earlier so ignore this question. I follow now. Those holddowns look great in black.

Good to know Shaun - I saw another in the jy that as soon as I touched the weight it fell off. Probably a lot out there just a tad imbalanced and not making a bit of a difference. Didn't even think about the 81 on Gary's and not being a 460 that year. Good catch Jim. Interesting.

Yeah, the photos are really bad. Wish I would have looked at them while I was there. The thermostat went into the intake which is the normal way I tell as I am walking by to see if it warrants stopping but the valve covers also said 7.5 so pretty sure it is. Don't spend too much time on it though - with the photos as they are, unless someone can pick it out of all the shadows, I'll take better ones the next time I am there. Slightly better photo of the motor as a whole:

First off, I'll admit I haven't done my due diligence in researching what this could be/be from. My jy helper was getting a bit tired of looking at 'just one more truck' so I didn't get great photos or pull any numbers. While looking for crank pulleys and wide rear view interior mirrors (all were separating behind the glass so no luck there), I came across this 80's truck. The core support showed it came with the 351 so something was swapped at some point. With the Saginaw up high and what looks to be a bracket for the compressor down low (non-a/c cab), what did this come out of? Is that an a/c bracket and if so, what compressor? Additionally, are these the brackets I would want for a vbelt Saginaw upgrade someday? Would be for Camano (4wd with a/c). Shadows were making it really hard to get good photos and i could see my screen when taking them so I know these are really bad.

Wonder what they changed on them between the E1 and E3. I know on my grandpa's 85 460 with the dealer added a/c the it is 2 pieces with the front a/c sheave being separate. I appreciate the offer and still holding out hope that Sept will happen. I think this jy one will work, visually it looks good. I see yours has the coin weight on it also. That is my point of interest. I think what I will do is blast this one without being cautious around the weight. If it survives that I will see if it is still adhered after the brake cleaner and preheating. If it survives all that, I will coat it. If at any point it falls off I will scratch an X where it was and tape that circle off so it won't get coated. I'll also avoid coating the backside of the weight so that I can re-glue it, metal to metal.

Looks like E3TE-6312-DA on the jy one.

Noticed the other day that the a/c groove has a bend/dent in it on the one in my truck (a/c isn't installed yet). Ran to the jy to get a replacement. All the ones I found have disc weights on them. My bent one doesn't but I had it powder coated (before I started doing it myself) so I don't know if it was on there prior to that or not. Want to powder coat this one also but wondering if these things are just glued on there and will fall off in the heat. Which may have happened to the first one. Anyone know? If they are just glued on there, think I should pop it off, mark the spot, coat the weight and the pulley, then epoxy it back on? Can't get a photo posted but will when back on wifi

Well done!

I've only driven it once but I thinking moving it solved the issue. Thanks! The return spring kit came in but will hold off to see if something changes and it is needed.

Talking about the ones that have the big FORD block letters halfway through? I've seen those in trucks before. Do you have access to dealer ones or just interested in how they looked? It would be neat to have some nos or really nice ones like that.

The CRL one would probably be a really close fit. Going g to head to the jy on Sat so will keep an eye out for some nice wide ones.

Oh for sure! No question - that overkill horn belongs on BB like no other.