kramttocs

Let's say pretty looking and pretty loud. I would call very few horns pretty sounding

Don't worry, I got the rolling eyes again when I was just asked why I was laughing (the sound of the horn shortly after didn't help my case ). That thing is pretty.

Prices aside - both great candidates for an SEM job.

Could you tell a difference between it and your 86? I like the stance of our trucks as they are but also haven't seen one with and one without next to each other.

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-mirror-inside-rr-view-adhesive_e5az-17700-a.html Thanks David. Contacted them and they said I would receive the Replaced By part of DU5Z-17700-P. This is all I am finding online also. One seller got back to me and said the DU5Z was the shorter version. Only one dealership has the E5AZ but it's for a customer. Looks like JY or going with the shorter one.

Neat find. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Article No. 96-23-16 11/04/96 FRONT SUSPENSION - LOW IN FRONT/STRIKE THROUGH ON BUMPS - F-350 4X4 EXCEPT MONOBEAM AND F-250 4X4 OVER 8500 GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT LIGHT TRUCK: 1980-86 F-350 1980-97 F-250 This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to include newer model years. ISSUE: The front end of some vehicles may ride low and/or camber cannot be brought into specifications using stock adjusters. Other symptoms may include negative front camber, tire wear, drift/pull and strike through on bumps. ACTION: Install a front spring "added leaf" kit. The front spring kit will not increase front end load capacity, it will only raise ride height. Refer to Instruction Sheet 5582A, included in the kit, for detailed installation procedures. PART NUMBER PART NAME EOTZ-5B302-A Leaf Kit OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONE SUPERSEDES: 86-22-19 WARRANTY STATUS: Eligible Under Basic Warranty Coverage For 1980-1991 And Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage For 1992-97 Model Year Vehicles OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME 962316A Install Leaf Kit 2.0 Hrs. DEALER CODING CONDITION BASIC PART NO. CODE 5310 63 OASIS CODES: 303000, 304000

My wife gave the same expression after she asked why I was smiling as I typed. Blame it on the cabin fever. The page looks great - thanks a lot for adding it. Once I hopefully hear back from one of the ebay sellers I asked to measure it, I'll report back.

I vote yes on adding it. Maybe directly under Interior? Like how the exterior mirrors are directly under Exterior? You could...wait for it...mirror that structure

Thanks Gary! I looked in the doc but didn't see that table. Apologies if I missed it. Guess I need to look for E5AZ-17700-A. Did a lot of them get painted to match? I assume 'covered' just means that they are the typical hard black plastic shell? Edit: Just realized that's the same thing as I posted initially but all of the listings for that describe it as 10 inch. Edit 2: Messaged a seller to see if they can measure it for me since all the ones I found on ebay for that number show 10" but Tasca shows it as 12"

Did Ford only offer one interior rear view mirror? D0AZ-17700-A/E5AZ-17700-A The one that came in Camano has glass that is 11" wide. The center behind the glass has separated so need a new one but want to go back with the same width. I don't see any markings on this one so figure it's aftermarket but wanted to check before I order a CRL one.

Gary is correct - this is the one you want.

That's the way to do it. Eliminate that 'question mark' when troubleshooting problems without having to pull the panel just to check.

You and me both Dane - was just looking at the evtm again. I wish they would have put the ground connection inside the cab vs at the door.

I don't know exactly how the companies apply the rust proofing but with the diy options I've seen that could have been done with 1 or 2 plugs and a length of hose. Have the kit ready to do it for the cargo light and cab corners/rear supercab section. Really nice truck though. Admittedly I wouldn't be happy at all with all those plugs if I hadn't been told about it beforehand and agreed to it.

Yes, it can be removed but replacing the column may be easier I haven't taken a non-tilt column apart but assume they are similar in that area. Look for a skull shaped hole in the main tube beneath the collar and see if you see a rivet. You may have to shift as I don't recall in what position you can see it. The rivet holds the collar to the shift tube. If you drill it out in the truck you'll want to think about where the shavings will go (may have to remove the lower bearing/retainer to let them fall out there). In addition to the rivet, it will likely have a pretty tight friction fit. Take a look at the diagram here to see how it all connects: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/steering-columns1.html

Thanks Shaun. Good to know that there are a number of additional years that will work. Didn't realize the stepped ones were that much later.

Just for reference here are the measurements at the perceived middle of the curve (so a ballpark measurement). 0.45" vs 0.65" The clearance bit is what I figured although I didn't expect both that and motor.

Possibly, but the firewalls did change in the later years. I'm not sure if that section of it did or not. Awesome, for some reason I was thinking 1/2x20 LOL. Yes it's currently installed in the truck and is completely worn out and actually bent from years of stopping on it. The truck is an early 85, base model non AC with vinyl floor. I did not know there was a difference. If you can manage to find it it would be very helpful. The later years are different and the pedal is stepped. Not positive if it was changed in 87 or a couple years into the next gen. Here are the two types I've seen. Thick one: 1985 F250, 460, rubber mat Thin one: 1986 F250, 460, carpet I disassembled and 'rebuilt' a jy one for my truck (page 2 in the build thread shows it)

M8 on the firewall threads. Do you have one at all? I ask because there are two different styles I know of. For lack of better descriptions - a thin one and a thick one. I posted a comparison of them at one time but can't find it. Not sure if it has to do with motor or carpet or just a change in years.

It would require pulling the dash. I'd do the repair in the dash unless you have another reason to pull it.

Up to your taste on that. I like the rosewood personally but a burlwood with good color isn't bad at all. I clear coated mine to prevent the pealing/flaking but not sure what would be a preventative measure to slow the burlwood to purple change. Others may have some good suggestions on that.

I don't recall on that but likely 1/8 if forced to guess. Whichever you have or can get the easiest will work fine for this application. Haven't done it in truck but I'd be tempted to run the truck and crank up the heat while doing the bending and prying portion. The more pliable the better.

Yours is in really nice shape regardless of what it came in. Going to keep it with both styles, change the hood, or change the dash?

You definitely could. I've seen some really nice real wood armrests in these trucks. You are correct - yours isn't original to the 85. It also has horn icons on the ends which I think was a van only thing also.