kramttocs

FWIW, I am using Precision DWP 2110 80 and don't feel like I need to slam them. The latches were removed for painting so I can't say how much they are moved from before but the body lines are good. I shut the doors with the same force as I do with any [new] vehicle. I do have lightweight sound mats in the door also. Also, this is likely common body shop knowledge but I didn't know about it and was happy to make the discovery after installing the weatherstripping - if the interior door panel is off there is a hole in the latching mechanism that allows you to loosen the striker bolt, pull the door so the body lines match and then tighten it up.

Hooked up the Viper 211HV tonight. Used the diagram in the first post (thanks again Gary!) as the starting point with a slight deviation in that I am using a dedicated power wire. Still need to hook up all the other stuff (horn, flashers, dome lights, etc) but just having the keyless entry puts a smile on one's face.

I never actually considered that option for a couple reasons. One being that there is already a noticeable difference between the vent output between driver and passenger side and I didn't want to impact it further. It's a good idea though but not sure about how much is needed. The Big Blackie thread talks about it and has a photo of it here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1157346-big-blackie-the-build-43.html#post14608923

Wide turns and extra large parking spaces? I think owning one of those would be fun. Definitely wouldn't be my choice of a daily driver but fun for trips. Can't think of anything special to look for on the cc's beyond the normal Bullnose points of interest. Wish the poster had fewer far away photos though and at least a couple of the back seat/rear doors.

Yeah, I didn't expect a huge improvement in the brightness but still happy it is a little brighter. Knowing that I can leave the hood open for long periods of time and not worry about melting or yellowing the dome/cover is well worth it. Rusty - I don't see why the factory light still wouldn't work. Would just need to drill some holes. I've thought about the Ford oval one also.

He mentioned that. He said with the mass backing that the carpet has a better, more defined form, but at the same time is much less forgiving. I'm fine with that. I think the big difference is in the pictures and that the 87-96 carpet is not folded up to fit over the hump behind the seat. Did you buy the carpet with the mass backing? And if yes, did you install some other sound deadening material under it? Yes to both and would go with the combo again. I was afraid it might add too much thickness but hasn't been a problem. In one area my exhaust is pretty close to the floorboard and it was definitely warm to the touch with just the sound deadening material but once the mass backed carpet went in, you can't feel a thing. I went with the essex (I think is the name) option also. I haven't seen or felt anything else firsthand but the essex mass backed is nice stuff.

I can't really help on the differences (I wouldn't have expected any but the cover) but I will say if you are getting the ACC with mass backing there isn't much forgiveness (not sure about the non mass backing). If no one chimes in with a solid answer, I'd consider spending a little jy time pulling the carpet out of two and comparing. It's been raining here and will be all weekend or else I'd see if I could run over to the local one. (also RockAuto had the best price by far when I ordered mine)

Haha so true. If you get a chance and want to, I wouldn't mind seeing your dash cover. We may be in the minority rocking carpet dash covers but I know when I was looking I was a bit overwhelmed by the different offerings from Covercraft alone and would have liked to have see a few examples actually in our trucks.

I've used the black plastic epoxy to fill in some holes a PO drilled in the cluster bezel and it worked out well. Wouldn't notice them unless looking. They are on the underside of the top row of indicators though so I didn't bother sanding them smooth and painting. Are you putting an XL emblem on there? As was mentioned, the black may not be an exact match so will that be ok or are you going to repaint all the black areas on the bezel? Also, I would get some input on masking the areas off. I don't have any experience masking them but after seeing some of the flaking bezels, I would be cautious of putting tape on them in case they lift the woodgrain on removal.

Too late at night for a full update of what I've done since the last post but I did get the dash pad and cover installed this evening. Have been holding off as I needed to solder the cb/am-fm wiring back together. Had to unsolder the connection to get the coax to fit through the cowl/firewall hole. I just wanted to add some photos of the cover for a visual to anyone else that may consider this style in the future. This is the Covercraft Ultimat. The fit is great and I don't plan on installing the velcro if I can help it. As far as carpet dash covers go, I am really impressed. It screams 80's. I see that Covercraft now has a Carhartt dash that looks really nice. In addition to that and the Ultimat, they have a few other styles. (Plain dash for easy comparison)

Nice job! I disassembled mine when I powdercoated it and I will say if you remove the large magnets inside the canister, they can be a pain to reinstall with the clips. Good timing on this thread as mine had been working but just the other day it wouldn't turn off and the intermittent functionality didn't work. On mine though if I rotate the dial in just the right spot it will so thinking mine is just a bad switch. If that doesn't do it, I'll be following in your testing process.

Yep, they do. My truck has all the options and those holes are just plugged. It's turtles all the way down.

Photo? Likely a situation where you mask and repaint the whole area.

As Gary mentioned, I have one in mine and am really happy with the way it turned out although I haven't finished with the bezel yet. That's just a matter of enlarging the hole and installing a trim piece. Does your truck have a/c? If so, there are two ways to go about it: Cut into the plastic duct (above) or modify the dash support (below). I prefer the dash support method but there are pros/cons to both. Happy to provide any additional details or photos that might help.

SBL order arrived today. Happy with the results. Clearance is good and light output is an improvement. It's not a huge improvement but the reduction in heat alone is worth it to me. This is the cool white vs the GE90.

N803020-S40 == 76.2mm N803022-S40 == 88.9mm n803023-S40 == 108mm

I took Jim's "help" comment to be of the medical persuasion Starliner - a coworker made the comment a few years ago that he wasn't obsessed with [X], he was just hyper interested. I like to think there is a difference. My wife disagrees.

Mice/critters is the only explanation I've ever heard

Is that because without the tool the rubber will tear or break? I'm currently planning on getting rid of the 'duckbill' (a far politer descriptor than the other one I've seen for these parts...) rubber altogether, since I really don't want trash building up in there again. Exactly but if you are getting rid of it (which I've considered also), I'd just grab and yank. Yeah, I've heard it called the other...

Spot on! Man, you really had me excited.

Passenger side. Asking for some reassurance but can this be anything but the valve covers? You can see in the photo the staining on the intake near the head. I don't see any oil or staining near the carb or spacer to indicate too much oil coming through the pcv. The engine builder installed the valve covers to break it in and I can see now that they are really sunk down at each bolt so everything is pointing to that being the culprit. Waiting on some baffles for my new valve covers and hoping that will take care of it but just wanting to see if there is anything else I should check.

Looks like a really clean one. Completely up to you but I'd remove the '2wd' references and change 'blazer' to 'bronco'. Best of luck!

Oh don't misunderstand me, I am not arguing where the factory line was. I am saying that with the blue/white truck it is obvious they intended for the slant to be there and from the photos I've looked at, it is well done. One could make a comment about the wording used of "factory-correct repaint" on BaT if they wanted...

Glad you asked about that bracket - wondered the same when mine was off. Anyone ever seen one of those shields? Yes - you can reach your hand up there and get to the drains. Loosening the 'tail' of the liner would help but isn't absolutely necessary. Just be careful if you try to remove the duckbill rubber without a forked trim tool though as on one of the trucks I stripped down it was hanging on by a single retainer and the other was tore out.

Nothing to it at all. I was going to take some photos but there's really not much in there. Once you drill out the rivets the two halves come apart without fuss. Inside there is a white pulley made of two halves. On mine the two halves of the pulley came apart while I was pulling the case apart so the spring tried to escape but even if it does, no big deal. One half of the case will have a white lever that is the locking (clicking) mechanism and that's it. The other half has the mercury capsule and wiring. The pulley splits with some locking tabs. All I did on mine was wind the spring back in the center of the pulley (since it came out on me), put some dielectric grease on the contacts, and wrapped the light cord back inside the pulley. The spring center post on one half of the case has slot in it that the spring fits into. After putting the pulley back in I gave it a few revolutions until I liked the tension on it. Put the light socket in the holder and then put the other half of the case back on. I used SS button head m3 x 8 bolts with nyloc nuts and a washer. Reading that is probably more confusing that actually opening it