kramttocs

I do similar to Dane. We have a SmartThings setup so I have an outlet that if the temp is below X it will turn on the heater at a certain time. If the temp is below Y it will turn it on a little earlier.

Hmm, this is a quick fuel variant so it has some extra adjustability but wouldn't have expected the vacuum ports to be different. So forgetting the pcv big port on the back, either of you mind posting some photos of yours?

Gary - I wondered if you had the XS since I recall looking at the pmgr upgrade page and seeing that your terminals were on the sides. Smart thinking on leaving the cables a little long. Dave - I'll do the non-OD test the next time I head to that town. Will be good to have that number. My speedometer is also off a little so the mpg won't be quite as good but not sure that will have too much of an impact over that short test. Yeah, no sense adding the OD first if you'll take it off soon to swap the tranny. Will be interested in how both those changes impact your mpg's.

Scott, recheck that base vacuum you say is timed / ported vacuum as I have never seen any base ports be timed / ported on the one up by the float sight hole. The way Cory has his is how I have mine even if it is a 300 six as that system works the same way on any size motor. FYI I don't have the heat hose to the EXH. manifold because I am running EFI manifolds and no way to really get heat from them. In my case it does not get that cold here and if it is pulling a little warm air then good other wise I don't worry about it. Dave ---- Thanks guys. I'll pickup a Tee and use the full vacuum port at the base of the carb to feed both. Dave - this is from the manual. Not sure if there is a good reason to use one over the other - I just chose the bottom one to keep the line out of the way.

These look like the kind the slide into the connector itself (like the dome line connector at the bottom of the B pillar). The ones that get taped directly into the harness can be found online but I haven't seen this kind to purchase outside of a jy.

A flawless selection process if ever there was one! Thanks for the heads up on the Tygon.

Tried that the last time but the tubing I had on hand didn't want to stay uncurled and knocked the mason jar over. After cleaning that up, was easier to call my wife out With the right tubing or having the jar secured I'd give it another go.

It was actually the length that caused me issues on the front. I don't believe the speed bleeders are long enough to fully seat. Let us know what you find. Would really like to try some of them out

Double check on the speed bleeders for a 4wd F250 before you order them. I've got a set of 4 on a shelf because I assumed the catalog just left that combo off accidentally. As far as Dane and I know, they don't make them for us. I have a craftsman bleeder that is the same as the mighty vac. Never have gotten it to work well. Always go back to the wife press and hold method.

Dave/Bill - appreciate the info. I should better explain the carb since as Bill said in another thread - it's a universal one so a few changes from factory. It has 3 vacuum ports not counting the large one in the back. 1 full manifold - located at the front base (see capped port in the second carb photo above) 2 timed-spark/ported - located on the side (capped currently) as well as at the front base. The timed port at the base is currently hooked to the vac advance. First off I need to confirm that this is correct. My understanding is that with the emissions hook up it is but not sure about a non-emissions motor. Scott has all my specs when he recurved a distributor so might be worth me giving him a call on Monday. I do have the fresh air snorkel going to the core support and the heat tube hooked up to the one of the tubes on the header. So same-ish as stock in that regard. So green will get the full manifold. Check. Yellow. Even though I have the heat tube hooked up, since I don't have the emissions getup will I benefit from hooking that one up to full manifold?

Which helps those of us with the headers being close to the top of the frame but won't that work against Gary's clearance since it's at the bottom? May have to shim AND shave a little off the frame? I member that dent video. Crazy how much they dented it.

I can now see why everyone recommends the zf5 swap! Yes on the dsii. I need to try that though. Once I get the new starter in I'll do that test. Maybe at the get together I can take that alt off your hands I completely get the roadside swappability of stock parts. I learned I am even at a slight disadvantage with the starter since the powermaster terminals are on the side but from what I saw at OReillys, the factory pmgr's have them at the end of the solenoid. Trying to turn the end of a 1/0 cable in a tight 90 degrees wouldn't be as fun as a straight swap. Dave - yes, I am glad they are helping me out even though I am a little past the time since while it has only been in use a short time, I bought it early on so it sat on a shelf. I will say they have very friendly support. The 5mpg increase is great but I figured I would get a pretty big bump from all the non-od changes themselves (cam, timing set, headers, dual exhaust, desmog, etc). Still won't complain too much though. I know you and I have talked about the gvod before and I would definitely say to keep an eye out for a used one - easy to install and well worth it. New would be great if one can, they are just a hefty chunk a change. Thanks on the door. I cut the plastic way larger than needed so I just threw it on wherever, pressed it down hard and taut and then took a razor to trim close to the tape caulk. I also used this stuff on the HVAC box for the a/c cover but it required some clamping to get it really smooshed together and look good. I remember being 15 and walking into O'Reillys asking for something to use to hold the vapor barrier to the door of the 65 Mustang I was restoring. The counter guys had no clue what I was talking about (doubt I explained it all that well anyways) but an older gentleman shopper took a piece of gum from his mouth and made to hand it to me while saying 'here use this, anything will work'. Funny the stuff that 'sticks' with you.

These two, hereby called yellow and green: Right now they are unplugged but want to hook them up as I think they should be (?). From a hazy memory they were hooked up to a manifold vacuum tree near the front but that was also when it was fully smogged so vacuum lines galore. I don't have a tree in the front right now and am trying to have as few capped off ports as possible. Thus, can I use either or both of these carb ports for these? Side being ported and bottom full since the ported on the bottom is hooked to the vac adv. Speaking of - that's correct for the vac adv to be hooked to ported, right? Don't think I asked Scott about that.

Perfect. You said driver side earlier but I was looking at the photo and thinking the passenger's perch.

Great photos and a really nice bay! Just ordered one of them. Hoping it won't hit the coil but for $10 worth a shot. Also moved the ball down. Even that seemed to add a bit more snap. Any reason for just using the one spring?

But it clears the top of the frame no problem? On my hedman HD headers I had to grind off a little of the frame on the top but not the bottom. Will putting the spacer on the perch rotate them away or up and closer?

Thanks guys! Will rig up something for the forward pull spring. Bill - so I need to move my ball connector down and to the right?

Thanks Bill. I'd prefer to add the spring over modifying the bracket although slotting it wouldn't be too bad. Wouldn't moving the bracket help the return to idle but harm the wide open position though? Going the spring route, what are your thoughts on which direction? Pull the bottom toward cab (so attach the spring in a hole opposite the pivot from the throttle cable attach point) or pull the top toward the radiator (spring in same location as the cable attach point)?

That makes sense. Would the aerosol rubber/bedliner not do the same? Curious since I've never worked with epoxy/fiberglass.

Bullnose stampede!! Got the inspection done and have 300 miles on the odometer now Have to say, the gvod behind the 460/C6 is nice! I have only been using it in auto mode so it kicks in at 45-ish as I've never really done the manual shifting with an auto. Just the noise level alone is hard to believe. Kick it out and it sounds deafening. I did a quick mpg test today between towns. Full tanks. Regular gas. 25 miles. Between 65-70mph (stayed closer to 70). Came out to 11.9mpg. Was holding out hope for a little better but definitely better than the 7 I was getting with the stock smogged motor originally. Since premium isn't crazy right now, I may do the test again sometime with a tank of that out of curiosity. Got the drivers side door wrapped up and the boom mat baffle, speaker, and door panel installed. For the weather barrier I used some leftover plastic from when I encapsulated my crawlspace and the Eastwood tape caulk. Really like the tape caulk. Holds the plastic really well but also allowed me to pull a little off when I realized I put the window switch too low. Just a little fyi on the panel - I had ordered a set of the Christmas tree/push pins but the lower corners weren't staying in. Took a look at O'Reillys and they sell a package of 6 with 3 of the sames ones I had but then 3 long ones. The long ones solved the issue and keep the panel snug. Motor is running great but starting it has been less than ideal. Starting cold isn't ever a problem although sometimes I get a short, nerve-wracking grinding noise as soon as it fires up. Then when it's warm or hot, it crawls turning over. It always starts but man it's slow. I am using a powermaster mastertorque and as far as the design goes, I really like it. I called Powermaster the other day and the tech support suggested me upping the battery cable and using a jumper vs a dedicated trigger wire for the solenoid on the starter (so going back to the factory ford setup). I was using a 2 awg hot wire as per the directions. I was going to go with a 1/0 originally but there isn't much space between the battery terminal and the solenoid terminal on the starter so the Magnalug was too close for comfort. I opted out of going back to the factory setup as I couldn't see how that would help but I did go to the 1/0 cable straight from the battery. This required a little grinding on one side of the Magnalug to get the clearance needed for both rubber covers to fit over the two terminals. Unfortunately, no change. While I was in another town today getting the bed Line-X'd, I swung by O'Reillys to have them test the battery. It passed but when starting it up the starter failed. Good to at least have something to go on although the starter was brand new... Called support to get it replaced under warranty and opted to bump up to the next model (XS torque). Far more than my motor needs but can't hurt. Hopefully that will solve both issues. While speaking of Powermaster, I know a lot of people don't care for the 1 wire alternators but I really like the 150amp one I am using. No complaints whatsoever so far. I only went that direction because I found a new in box one in the local classifieds but it really did simplify that whole area's wiring. Using it with a single v-belt and the L&L brackets. Don't have any photos of how the alt and bracket sit but could get some if anyone is interested. Got my Real Gaskets valve cover gaskets in the mail today and really need to take care of those leaks. Maybe if the weather is nice tomorrow...

That's crazy. I have a blue interior parts truck with brown panels just like yours and I also thought someone had swapped them from another truck.

See what you have left once you get all the caulk and rust scraped out of there. If it's not too structurally deficient I'd be tempted to forget the rust converter and go with epoxy and fiberglass. But then, I'm an epoxy geek, and see using it many places. It's not as if it's a fender where the back side is seeing the water and mud thrown up off the road. You'd need to scour the glue into clean metal for a structural bond, and then working while it's just setting up, bridge the gap with some roving and probably lay some light cloth across the whole floor of the cowl from one side to the other. You'd end up with a continuous composite trough. It would never rust out if water can't get under any edges, that's why it's important to have it clean and scrub the epoxy into the entire surface before adding any reinforcement. Being in Puerto Rico you might find someone in a marina or boatyard to help you. There is fiberglass 'tape' in various widths. And it definitely needs to be epoxy not polyester. Jim - so even if the rust is still there (unconverted) the epoxy will stop it from spreading?

The 4160 (a Quickfuel variant) on my 460 isn't returning to the correct idle by itself. When I first start it up it's usually ok but after warming up, it requires me to either quickly hit and release the pedal (doesn't always work) or put my foot under the pedal and pull up a bit. Normally I wouldn't overthink this and just throw a spring in a hole on the bottom of the throttle lever (since the linkage connects at the top) hook back to the throttle/cruise control bracket but I was reading something about having two springs - 1 push/1 pull - causing uneven wear. The return spring hole here is what I am talking about: I see there is also a bracket/arm that comes out towards the front and appears to bolt onto the throttle lever with the throttle ball. Or I could add a spacer in the throttle cable spring? Thoughts?

When I got my 86 it had a lot of slop in the pedal to the point where you were fighting the carpet. This was even after a PO had bent the top of the pedal out a bit to help. I don't have the problem anymore but changed too much to know why. If it was still a problem though I was going to find a brass sleeve that could be slid over the cable at the pedal end and then crimped enough to keep it there. This would kick the pedal up higher and eliminate the play. Again, never did it so just in theory.

Didn't expect to but I like the black and light blue combo. Would need to see it with everything else on the truck as a whole though to be sure.