kramttocs

Sounds like we need a whole bunch of photos from your lineup

Welcome! Really like that paint scheme and pattern. That have the fawn interior? A really, really light tan. Gary is right - that hubcap turned out incredible.

That is possible. Although I think if you saw them in the trucks they would probably Centurion models, and even then I'd bet that wheel came out of a van. Those centurions are odd beasts. Never seen in one in person or noticed what pattern they had for the horn but considering what little I have seen of them, they did have similar cupholders to the vans so I wouldn't be surprised to find out they used a van horn like that photo.

Jim, I've done the same with lengths of 10awg romex. Put some vacuum caps on the ends if you will be near paint. Sounds like Vernon may have used a similar one to mine if it needed an extension. It's way down in there. With the lokar, a push in is a push in right? The crate reference seems odd.

Yep. All plastic for the trucks. The one in that photo is from a van so has a different pattern than trucks. I am thinking the vans had real wood for things like the cupholders so maybe they had real wood horn pads? Been awhile since we took 1990's family vacations in one

Initially the 750 struck me as high also and on a local ad it would be. I have this same one or one a lot like it hanging on the wall in my shop and I will say it has some definite heft to it. Those uprights are chunks. So when you think about that it is 750 (obo) including shipping which also means building a crate for it, it's a bit more understandable.

Looking good! Been following along with your header fun. While nowhere near the magnitude of your pain, I will say that I am not impressed with my experience with that company. On to the dipstick - my main suggestion would be to double check the length of whichever one you get. The Lokar ones look a lot like the proform stainless/braided/flexible one that I am temporarily using as it has been one problem after the next. I would be interested in seeing the braided screw in one you have. I gave up on trying to bend my factory one around the headers. It got to be a mangled mess and then the ear fell off... Hopefully someone with a later 460 pan has experience with an aftermarket dipstick that works.

I'd shove a handful of paper towels, tissues, or toilet paper up high in the firewall between the insulation mat and the bottom of the cowl channel to see if it picks up any moisture.

Back to fighting this. The drivers window is working really well. The passenger won't go up or down fully and what little it does move is a strain. The wiring at the passenger door switch gets pretty warm during. I hooked direct power and ground to the motor last night and it helped but still struggles a lot. In addition to this, whether a coincidence or not the power lock on the passenger side is slow also. Once I work it a few times it either gets a little better or stops responding completely. Back to the window, I've loosened both the front and rear guide but that seemed to make it worse since it now gets much more crooked. Is the direct power test to the window motor about the best thing there is? I want to add in my remote locks/windows but don't want to do that until they actually work

Interesting. Those are likely right since they are 1.5". Funny but AutoZone shows both the 639600 and 639590 as being a fit for the fronts on a F250 4wd. The 590's are the ones I got and at 1" they are too short. Have you found any for the rears?

Thanks Gary. Yes, this is inside a metal shop building that even if it is misting outside it sounds like a downpour. Appreciate you taking a listen and for giving me the right word (over-run) to describe it

Appreciate those photos. The idea is growing on me. Since what I have works I won't rush out and change it but definitely thinking it over and will see what you do. My only concern would be with a carb and the inline filter + factory return valve (or aftermarket one) it would get a bit crowded and hard to work back there when changing the filter out. Took some quick recordings of the XS Torque starter. The first one is cold and not giving it the single pump it needs as I wanted to hear just the cranking sound. You can hear the whirring after the first crank/release. The second is it starting after a single pump. You can hear the same whirring noise right after it fires. These are both taken inside the cab with everything closed up. If this is normal with the high torque starters or even just pmgr starters, great. I am just a little cautious after the periodic grinding noise of the MasterTorque. Adding the shim is the only adjustment option I am aware of. XSTorqueFord460-C6-NOSTART.wav XSTorqueFord460-C6.wav

Nice work on the repairs Jim! I left a bottom screw out of the vent panel cover last summer and water just poured in through it. With the water being on the shelf though, I've only seen that when the cowl channel had holes Doesn't look like it's coming in from the brake booster or any of the other firewall penetrations that may not be sealed well?

I think you need some new valve covers though Jim and I could take your current set off your hands

Any way to switch the cable back to the TC and check with a GPS if the speed is off? Then back in the GVOD and check it. Just wondering is all. I am waiting on a Advance Adaptor's Range Splitter, should have been here. It is listed at 27% OD IIRC. Running the numbers thru the calculator on here it should put me at 1800 RPM at 70 MPH. The thing I don't like about the GVOD is you cant split all the gears because the need to be at a speed before the unit will shift. So I would not be able to split granny gear to pull a load that did not need non-OD granny gear. My speedo would still be in the transmission so that should not change how it work for me. Because I also have many miles that I have taken mileage I should be able to get a good reading with the OD unit installed. I cant see going from a T18 to the NP435 would change the MPG as it is still 1:1 4th gear. Dave ---- I just did some quick looking at that offering. Those look really nice at a great price point! I like the short length of them, the 27%, and that they work in 2wd or 4wd (that is a gvod deal breaker in some regions). Looks like they require a few more modifications to the truck and I will be interested in seeing how you do the shift lever changes. Unfortunately I can't change the speedometer back to the factory setup because with the 4wd install you replace the back half of the transfer case with a gvod provided one so you no longer have the speedometer hookup. Thanks a lot for those photos Jim. Never knew they offered a filter that had an angled outlet. That would help in a lot of scenarios. Gary, I hadn't ever thought about coming up over the back. I don't hate the idea and would really like the clean approach of it. I will keep an eye out on what you do especially if you make the change while still running the carb. I have a lot of questions since I haven't ever seen the efi routing to know if it would be plug and play to the carb or if you will have to do bend some custom lines. Since I am sure there will be a lot of good photos when you get to that point, I'll hold off on asking them and wait patiently Yesterday the XS Torque came in. Night and day difference in starting the truck than with the [defective] MasterTorque. Let the truck run to temp, killed it, and started it back up after 10 minutes. No slowness at all. My only concern is that split second after starting. With the MasterTorque I was getting that really awful sounding grinding after. Which I could understand being the starter not disengaging fast enough and getting turned by the motor. This was without and with the shim both. With the XS Torque it doesn't sound bad at all but there is a whirring noise very briefly after startup. To me it sounds like the starter is spinning so fast that I can hear it freewheeling after it has disengaged. Again, not a bad sound but not something I have heard before or recall. Will take a video of it later and see what you guys think. I called tech support and they suggested I recheck the measurement between the flexplate teeth and the spacer plate to see if I needed the shim. I would have expected if the shim was needed (the measurement checked out correctly to NOT need the shim before I installed the original MasterTorque) that it would mean it doesn't disengage fast enough and would cause the grinding.

Sam - are you double-checking here? http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/truck-suv.shtml

Thanks Gary for getting those measurements. Have a photo of the filter unit? How low will the filter be hanging down if you bolt the plate to the frame? If you mock it up, take a photo for us.

An important question - doing this in the truck or out?

Hey Barry, Here are some photos. Happy to get more if needed. I've done this fairly recently and Shaun is looking to do it soon. As for the rivets, I provided the thickness measurements of a plastic door and the hinge I used. I don't recall the exact length of the rivets I used. Have you read through Karl's guide on FTE?

Karl's guide on FTE is really well done as are most of his how-to posts. I didn't read the Big Blackie thread until just recently but I see he used: "1/8" adhesive backed neoprene. I actually bought mine from eBay, just do a search for neoprene sheet and you'll find a bunch of sellers. I got a sheet 1 foot wide by 54" long for about $18 shipped. If I were to do it again, I would go that route. If not for looks alone (everyone wants to look at your blend doors, right?), I like the idea of having a single sheet vs a bunch of strips of weatherstripping. The hinges I got were from Amazon although I don't see that exact listing anymore: [3 of Aluminum 5052 Continuous Hinge without Holes, Unfinished, 0.06" Leaf Thickness, 3" Open Width, 1/8" Pin Diameter, 1/2" Knuckle Length, 1' Long (Pack of 1)].

That's a good question. I am really not sure if the speedo was off before or not. Now the speedo is ran off the OD (a TH400 setup I think?) and it has the slowest gear available in there (light green). I assumed that is what did it but I am also running a little shorter tires than stock although not by much. Before the rebuild I didn't ever measure it with gps and only thought to now since the head unit offers it. Otherwise I doubt I would have ever known. I want to try it at 55 sometime on that same stretch. Despite these trucks being capable of the higher speeds, there is just something about keeping the speedometer at the 'framed' 55 . The gvod ought to get you really close to that if not right at it. Mine is dropping about 500 rpms but at your already lower rpms it would be a little less (percentage I think is 20-22). Worked a little on the truck yesterday and got the drivers side platform installed. You can't see it but following Gary's lead, there is a second duraspark unit under the platform. I drilled out the threads on the top one so it's all sandwiched together using the bottom unit's threads. I probably won't have a secondary battery in there for a while so I will be running the fuse box from the isolator only for now. This will be running things that won't be critical if the isolator cuts out when not running. Out of 1/0 red cable so had to order some more but there will be a cable going from one of the fuses to the left side of the isolator. I doubt I will ever need more relays but the blank section is in case I do add another ssVEC box like on the passenger side. While checking out the carb vacuum lines I figured I'd take a photo of the fuel line I am using in case it helps anyone. Probably a dozen ways to do this and there may even be a more obvious solution I overlooked but this is what I went with. I'd ran into an issue on a previous 460 truck where I had to turn the feed line backwards and then run a long length of fuel line looping around behind the carb and up the drivers side of it. All because of the thermostat housing. I ended up going with the summit feed line with the built in filter and pressure gauge. I then looped the hard line around the distributor. Right now I have a second inline filter but that is only so I could run a few tanks after the rebuild and easily monitor the filter. Will remove it and have just a SS hard line there soon. Pleasantly surprised with the summit line. I guess this is only an issue with non-factory carbs but if anyone has any other 460 fuel line routing photos, would be interested in seeing them.

Not at all! Interesting topic. I would have assumed the same also but good eye/catch. That does explain it. Picked this one up second hand with only a few miles on it and before that had never heard of QF. Haven't needed to do much with it but the float adjustment did come in handy. Thanks Jim for photos of those two carbs. More variations...

Rolling it and not removing any material would be ideal but I wouldn't think twice about grinding to your red line. I only say that because I did enough thinking and fretting before I took that same jutt off the top to give me some clearance Speaking of the heating route - is there any concern with heating the frame that hot?

I have the large port in the back supplying the vacuum to my brake booster. The side timed port supplies the distributor vacuum advance, and then I have the two 45* angle ports at the base in the front...one small, one large. The large one I have connected to my PCV valve, and the small one goes to my air cleaner. That's it for vacuum lines on my 302. I can take some pics no problem, but see below some pics from one of my Holley carb books. I have 3 of these for coffee table reading, but mine is connected as per these pictures. Mine is just a basic 4160 with vacuum secondaries and electric choke. Thanks! The two 45 degree ones at the base of mine are very similar in size and match the Cast Billet Model photo (middle left). I don't really know much about the QF ones but still a little surprised those two ports behave differently despite still being 4160's. Jim - if you get a chance, I'd be interested in looking at some photos of yours also.

That makes more sense to me than plumbing to the radiator first. Anyone have a chance to get thread pitches yet? I need to get me a tool with a bunch of those bad boys to make that stuff easier. Sorry, actually moved those lines around today during some cleaning but forgot. Will try to tomorrow.