kramttocs

Here is the pick pushing down on the ledge to release it.

You'll need to unscrew the block and rotate it to get at the tabs. The reducers like this come in from the front so have to be unclipped from behind whereas the new connectors snap in from the back. IIRC. ---Update. I looked again and I don't believe you have to come in from the back. Use a pick or small screwdriver to push one of the tabs down from inside one of the small square openings on either end of the reducer. At the same time with some needle nose pliers pull that end of the reducer out enough to free it from the latch. Remove the screwdriver and do the same for the other latch making sure the first side doesn't lock back in You could also use two screw drivers if you can pry them in enough to stay by themselves or grow a third hand.

The trucks and broncos are slightly different in this regard due to the rear window. Here is the clip removed in case seeing the tabs helps:

I think you are confused. The ones I mentioned are OMC ones. Outboard Marine Corp. But if you want OKC ones they'll just be Thunder, not Blue Thunder. Haha I think I am. Do you have a link for just the Thunder ones?

How hard would it be to make one of those in outline only (no color)?

Will keep an eye out for those OKC ones. The Blue Thunder look really nice but probably a little hard to justify on this motor I agree Angelo- the pcv should be fine but it's the breather that is the problem as it has the 'twist lock' and requires two slots in the valve cover. So looks like I would need to find a replacement for that. After doing a little searching I think I may pull mine, ensure they are flat and then reinstall new gaskets with the High Tack for now (just ordered some). The builder put them on in order to break it in and I haven't touched them so not sure of the torque used. I know these are rubber - stick with that over the cork?

Thanks Gary. That's the style I would prefer but not having much luck finding them. Never had non-stock valve covers but looking at all the ones for sale it doesn't appear the oil fill breather/extension (seen in your photo) will work? The holes all look round without the cutouts for the locking tabs.

In the market for some valve covers so would like to see some non-stock photos and/or hear any recommendations. I've been planning on swapping the stock ones out after I got everything in the engine bay situated. I am about to that point plus the ones on there look to be leaking quite a bit so will be doing this sooner rather than later. Pretty much a stock setup - heads, air cleaner. Replaced the egr with a spacer so air cleaner height should be the same also. I see a lot of tall covers which I don't need but do they cause any clearance issues if used? Thanks!

I didn't know there were different ways to install them until he brought it up. That's part of why I wanted to ask about touch up vs remove/reinstall. Wasn't sure if it made a difference on the type of material used for the install. I don't plan on grilling him or being difficult. I fully understand that things like this happen. I just don't know anything about windshields and how leaks should be properly fixed.

Thanks. Yeah, it will be fixed I am just not sure what the correct fix is. More and more I find that people want to do the quick thing and I want the knowledge going in of what the right thing is.

Had a new one installed on Thursday. Installer used the one without the black ring so the vin could be seen. He also used butyl tape and some kind of black goo. I still need to polish the trim so he told me to bring it back whenever and he'd put it on. Anyways, all was good and put a 100 miles on the truck Friday. Rained a little that night and in the morning the passenger floorboard had a wet spot right in the middle. Another plus for the mass backed carpet - nothing made it through so didn't have to prop up the carpet. Found that there is a really big leak a couple inches in on the top. My question is when I call him tomorrow or take it by is this something that I need to insist on the windshield being pulled and redone? I don't know what he'll say but just in case he says he can put more of the black goo on it, I just want to know if that is acceptable or not.

And be very careful with those tabs as I broke the first one I removed in the jy. Once you see how they are clipped though, subsequent ones are a lot easier.

Not doubling up on the steering box bolt is probably smart Jim. I'll wait and see what Gary evaluates and goes with.

I did the same - put a normal bolt and then a nut on the passenger side. Using a serrated nut is a good call Will have to swap mine out. If one doesn't want to make any real modifications at all on the drivers side they could possibly replace that fuel line retainer with a bolt and another style retainer or just drill out the plastic retainer to use a bolt. Then ground using that bolt. Or is grounding near a fuel line a bad idea?

Since the block is grounded to the frame on the passenger side, I think grounding to the frame on the driver side is valid and equivalent or better to any other option. I ran a 1/0 cable for ground between the two purely for the Boost option but I have also thought about putting a cable to one of the steering box bolts outside the frame. There may be a better location though. Interested to see what you decide as I may follow suit.

Yep -that's it. Tried to get a picture of it. The wedge shaped washer under that bolt. Yours may not have the play in it but mine was enough that when setting the timing I didn't want it to factor in. (If you look closely you'll see a gloss black powdercoated coil bracket )

Resistance for one. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder but according to mine, that bracket would look better in a gloss black powdercoat. I also kept my old distributor and had a new one sent. Just a heads up if you end up with the same. The new spacer (might be a technical name for it) had a lot of play in it. I took a stainless steel washer that fit the vacuum advance bolt (the one that goes into the cutout in the spacer) and ground two sides to a slight angle. This stops the spacer from shifting.

Just stumbled upon this thread: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1479261-duraspark-retarding-during-startup-3.html with your testing in it. I will try that new box I got from Amazon. One thing I noticed in that thread was that your Motorcraft labeled box was E8PF whereas the one I got from Amazon is D9VZ. May not make a bit of difference but just pointing it out.

It had the white wire, correct? So are you thinking it was just a defective unit? Curious because I had to set my timing back a little from Scott's recommendation as it was really hard to start when hot. Haven't tried putting the timing back and trying another DSII box. I figure it's all due to the engine being new but since I had just dealt with it and you mentioned the hard start...

That hold down looks excellent. Definitely doesn't look like plain old c-channel anymore. Well done!

Thanks Jamie! I read through most of your project thread awhile back (I remember seeing your avatar/name and following the trail to your project ). Love seeing a Bronco project. There is a brown and white one in the local jy that I dread seeing on the crusher someday. You are absolutely correct- there are a lot of not only super helpful guys on this forum but also extremely knowledgeable. Fortunately those chose the 7th gen to hang their hat on. I am happy with how the truck is turning out but there are a lot of things I would do differently if I were to do it again. I won't get into that as some have been very, very painful lessons learned and there is no way to gracefully bring them up. I have been trying to convince my son or daughter to want one of these trucks for their first vehicle but no bites yet. I need to work harder at it because now that this project has its major milestones completed, my wife may eventually get tired of my row of "but it's cheaper to buy the whole truck than the 1 part I need by itself" trucks. My son (7) is big into Pokemon right now so at least he understands the concept of 'gotta catch em all'!

Thanks guys. Dave - you betcha! Hoping to get it inspected when I leave the glass shop but may take the long way around. Will have to see about registration since it expired while doing the rebuild and now the bureaus are closed. Dane - these rims were actually on my wishlist when I was looking for a truck. They are Alcoa 167041's although I don't think mine have that exact number. 16 inch. I don't know if they were a factory option, dealer option, or just popular in the 80-90's but I saw quite a few of them on these trucks when scouring the country on Craigslist. Enough to not be too surprised to find this truck with them. They can still be bought and while mine aren't shined up, the photos of them new look sharp. Classic look and not overly flashy even when new - to my eye at least. I think they would look great on your truck! ;)

Thanks! Just dawned on me though when looking at the picture and the running board - not sure how fun it will be getting the horizontal front fender trim on now...

Haven't kept on top of posting any updates but have done a lot of little stuff to get it road (inspection) ready. A few things off the top of my head: Installed horns Installed passenger side running board Swapped distributor and set timing according to the Parkland instructions Installed front trim (grill, headlamps, etc) Drove it outside today. Still a ways to go but nice to see it moving Appointment to get the windshield put in tomorrow. October 2018 April 2020

Nice! With Quick Cable you really can't go wrong. They make really nice quality stuff. The hold down is no exception.