kramttocs

While not nearly as cool as this, my 80 1 ton was an oil pump truck and came with an extra ac compressor that had an air hose running to the back of the bed. No clue what psi it could output as it was removed as part of my simplification process. Neat find.

This was the first time I'd ever seen a controller like that also. I've always had either the electronic or hydraulic under dash controllers. Just wanted something unseen this time. Started on fitting the carpet this evening. The soldering gun works even better than expected. With the mass backing it works great. I didn't want to use my good gun so picked up a simple straight type. The large shaft is perfect for the 10mm bolts. As simple as marking the hole and then just pushing it all the way through. Once cooled you can remove the excess rubber material from the back that will pop right off.

Those look good. They definitely appear substantial. So the orange is a hard plastic meaning you have to re-terminate your wires? Would be nice if they were a silicone material. Can you fit two 12awg wires or two 14awg wires in a single hole in the orange?

For your 81 factory slider WITHOUT trim- You are correct in that you would want D3TZ-1042084-A (Steele 20-0825-81) (RTRW D3TZ-1042084-A). Speaking as someone that ordered the wrong one a year ago and then had to order the correct one yesterday, I would lean towards either RTRW or Dennis Carpenter as the one I got looks to be the same quality as factory and even with buying two of them I am still less than the Steele price. Not at all saying anything negative about Steele and you should really be pretty safe with your purchase because you have a factory slider in an 81 AND it doesn't have trim. To elaborate - Using that FTE quote above as the end all be all and seeing that the 80 and 81 years are the only Bullnose years that had sliders with no chrome trim and there is only one gasket for that combination, you are looking good. It's when mixing factory gasket numbers with aftermarket windows that I got lost. Once I got the aftermarket slider in person though it makes sense that it would need the non-slider factory gasket.

Yeah. it's easily confusing for sure but you have it right there at the end. Yes, I ordered E2TZ-1042084-A (Steel 20-0973-81). This is for a factory slide WITH chrome trim. This does not work with the CRL slider. Taken from FTE but I removed the only 70's entries to avoid confusion: Here are the Part Numbers for the different seals. Make sure the year of the seal matches the year of the window, or there might be fitment problems. D3TZ-1042084-A: For Solid Window without chrome trim. 1973-1979 and Factory Slider: 1973-1981. E0TZ-1042084-A: For Solid Window, without trim: 1980-1996/7 E0TZ-1042084-B: For Solid Window, With Trim: D7TZ-1042430-A: 1980-1996/7 E2TZ-1042084-A: For Sliding Rear Window: Requires Trim: D7TZ-1042430-A: 1982-1996-97 For your 81 factory slider WITHOUT trim- You are correct in that you would want D3TZ-1042084-A (Steele 20-0825-81) (RTRW D3TZ-1042084-A).

Good questions and for at least one I have a good answer. On the brake controller - yes, that is the out of the box dial and an adaptation of the out of the box led indicator system. It's a Reese Compact IQ controller and for this application, I am way more excited about it than I should be. It has a really small control unit that is mounted to the side of the brake pedal support. Then it has a fairly long (but could be longer for my location) lead on it with the dial and led indicator. I posted about this in a separate thread but with the help of the guys here, I split out the dual led into separate ones for Connected and Braking so it would better fit in the dash panel. So in short, it's a normal proportional brake controller. Speaking of - I was making sure I didn't have any parasitic draw last night and found out that this thing constantly draws .02 amps. Just fyi . As for the headlights. A few reasons, none of which would make me tell someone else they should do it. 1. With the relay mod, I had the driver's side headlight wires available and ready to use 2. Had the spots in the dash switch that I wanted to fill and these seemed like good candidates 3. In an emergency situation, maybe having both elements lit would be handy (which is why the low is a latching switch) 4. Easier to push a button to flash an oncoming driver as a warning for deer/animals in the road 5. Easier to send Morse code messages with a push button The first two are the real reasons...

Haven't had the issue (although will add it to my maint schedule also now) but for the top one why not put a longer bolt in with a nut and some blue loctite?

She was bound and determined that her, my son, and I were going to camp out in the truck last night since the carpet is in. Told her maybe after I get the locating seat belt bolts out. Would be uncomfortable enough without rolling over on one of those

The knobs match the ones in my 80 dealer installed ac. The kind with the controls in the dash cubby. 'Under Dash' wouldn't necessarily be my description of the dealer installed but Ford may have used that term.

But they are supposedly the ones where you put your own wire into the connector and either crimp or solder. I'll post a pic when I get them, but I'm kinda hung up w/o them which is why I chose to scan the big doc yesterday. Thanks guys

I agree with you Dave - the shifting sequence there seems odd. Since it will primarily just be a 4th gear for me I don't plan on using the Manual mode much but maybe it will make more sense when it's more than just theory to me. I bet it would be fun driving a truck like that. We have an old (60's Chevy maybe?) dump truck on the farm that I think has a two speed rear end but it's been decades since I have been in it. I just remember the tempting orange knob on the shifter that I was warned to never touch when I got stuck sitting in the middle. Had some good help (bonus: small hands) the past couple nights so I got the dash switch panel installed I took a couple videos to send to my dad so he could see what I was talking to him about on the phone the other day. They aren't well scripted or great quality but for anyone interested: Some notes: 1. The isolator actually disconnects at 12.7 instead of the 12.6 I said in the video 2. The GVOD switch doesn't light up because their wiring doesn't have either constant 12v or constant ground. Best I can tell/guess is that when the computer senses the different mph thresholds (~15/45) that it then puts voltage or ground to the switch wiring and depending upon which circuit is connected it either engages the OD solenoid or not. In order to have the switch light up when pressed in I will need to add a relay to the circuit that doesn't connect to +12v but rather just connects the GVOD wiring in NO or NC. Maybe someday I'll do that. 3. I suspect it won't be long before I put some tinting over the buttons as they are plenty bright 4. I wasn't originally going to make the low beam a latching button but there was a thread recently where the OP wanted to run with both high and low elements lit and after thinking about it, at the risk of forgetting and leaving it on, it seems like a good idea if the need ever arose. 5. I also rewired the backup camera from what I had it. I had it coming on automatically when going into reverse but decided to have it only driven by the button. Thought about doing both and putting a diode in to prevent the button from causing the backup lights to come on but since I don't care to use a backup camera for actually backing up and only want it when hooking up to a trailer, the button is the better option for me.

That is a nice looking truck! So clean and shiny I thought you had two sets of bumperettes for a minute

Have those ceramic headlight connectors come in yet? Spoke to Mr. Stern about the DRL-1 yesterday/today but am curious about those when you get them in hand. Specifically if they are short jumpers/adapters or if they are just the connector you slide the female terminals into.

Bingo Myrle! Just found this out today and reopened a discussion over on FTE about it: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1560590-rear-slider-questions-76-f250-3.html That mounting fin for CRL sliders is key. That said, since you are using a factory one than you don't have to worry about that and can get the correct, factory one. I opened it today when I found out it wouldn't work with the CRL but I do like the Rubber the Right Way one BUT important to note is that while I ordered it from them it came in a Dennis Carpenter package/label so if it's anything like the other DC stuff I've used, it's the same quality as factory Ford.

Yeah, was just looking at the one on my desk again and I am not sure I would feel too comfortably losing the red contact area and the filling/gripping ability of the o ring. While it spinning in the lower bearing may not cause any immediate failure and loss of control, just because it is part of the steering it would be worth him taking a look at to see if something could be done. Really liking it aside from that concern.

80 400 has it 86 300 does not

I like them on 4x4 trucks that sit a little higher. Wouldn't mind putting one on someday but am not sure how they work with the clearance lights. For anyone thinking about it I would highly recommend rivet nuts. Used those for my clearance lights (truck didn't come with them originally) and made for a nice clean install.

My 86 460 has it. Can check the 80 400 later. I can also check the firewall of the 86 300 in the shop for holes. I can't recall when I stripped that truck if it had one.

I have 65's in all my trucks also. They are a little too wide to sit perfectly flat for the 80-86 but work. Yours is smaller than those, right? The odyssey, right? Personally, I wouldn't mess with making something work when it's a common part.

Took another look at the photo and realized just how different the trays are so the 80-86 wouldn't work without some cutting and adding an angled piece to it. Scratch that.

Looking great! Will definitely want that brace. Don't have a late model one to look at but does the 80-86 one that came with BB fit or are they too different? For the side marker light wiring - are you planning to eventually do the DRL-1 module addition from Daniel Stern? If so you'll be cutting that wiring anyways so I'd throw in a connector of your choosing on there and you'll be ahead of the game

I don't know anything about it but the directions in one of the photos shows a section for cars and one for trucks so maybe same ornament.

Spare tire - in bed https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-FORD-1980-1982-F100-350-TRUCK-in-box-carrier-BOLT-SPARE-WHEEL-NOS/282742688609?hash=item41d4c70b61:g:niQAAOSwEwFdUvkb

On those molded ones like that one that say Pull Apart, I don't hold back. I've yet to break a tab and this includes pulling them apart in a freezing junkyard. So I say go for it but guard your elbows and knuckles.

No, it's still locked out until 15-20mph. Since I don't have any real world experience with it, here is the description from the manual for Manual mode which is where the lower threshold comes into play: "The only time you will find the need for the MANUAL setting on the dash control panel is when you want to gear split from a complete stop. This is a very useful feature when tackling a steep on-ramp to a freeway where you will want to come up to speed quickly, or virtually anytime you are pulling out on a grade from a stop. To use this feature, set the dash control panel to MANUAL, turn the Under/Overdrive floor switch on to illuminate the red light, and pull the gear shift selector to low. As you take off, your vehicle will go from first, to first over, automatically at about 20mph. Once your engine's rpm is approximately 3500, move your shift lever into second gear. After you hear the transmission shift into second gear, turn off the Under/Overdrive by depressing the floor switch, and this is second direct. Once the engine again revs to 3500 rpm, press the floor switch for second over. For third direct, move the gear shift lever to drive, wait until you hear the transmission change gears, then turn off the Under/Overdrive (this would be third direct)." Note: I put 'automatically' in bold.