kramttocs

Was thinking the same with the URL and name. This one looks great! Would gladly put one on my back glass

There is a lot of good photos on this over on FTE where a guy cut his all out and fabricated a seamless trough. To do it the 'right' way, yours needs cut out and replaced. Means pulling either the dash or the motor to really get at it. If this is just a use-it-up truck I would clean it real good, get some rust converter (few to choose from) and spray or brush it on as best you can. Then, like Dave also said, get some of the flex seal tape and tape over the holes. I would just run the tape along the whole trough. After that spray it liberally with the aerosol flex seal. It would last for a long time. Just depends upon your plans with the truck and what approach you want to take.

Nice work on that dash Dave!

Just to note - I had an 86 with the plastic rear tank (along with our 94 and 95). Not sure if it started in 86 (like the 4wd) or not. This truck also had the really heavy LS rear end so it was a little unique. My 80, 85, and other 86 are just the side tanks.

1. Correct 2. If Gary can't get them I have the 4 factory lines (factory aux cooler) that I could get measurements from. I swapped them for stainless. 3. I would keep both coolers connected also. I think it would take a lot to get a c6 too cool. Report back on how that pan works out. I have the tci on mine but have a b&m on the shelf. I've read about some having issues with the drain being right above the crossmember but I don't recall with what pan that was.

Very true! I still think it's a good URL to own for any future use but typing it out is rough. Starts to look like 'bull no seen thusiats' :) Casting my vote now.

Very nice guide and the finally product looks about as seamless as you could ask for.

Just to make sure I understand, you mean the one below, right? As for "whichever url Gary wants", this is our site, so let's make the name of it what we want. So I need to see what that is. Also, what about making it "The World's Primary Resource for 1980-1986 Ford Trucks"? The problem is that saying "Pickups" excludes Broncos which we do welcome. On the other hand, saying "Trucks" includes the little Rangers and Bronco-II's, which we don't include. Thoughts? Suggestions? Better Ideas? (This IS a Ford site. ) Right - the one with just the front end outline. Just thinking that it in white would show up really well on the back window. If using 'Truck' is what is gone with, the "bullnose" in the title and forum name might take care of not textually excluding Rangers and II's?

Phew Gary, that's hard to decide one over the other. Trying to look at it as someone new to the site, I suspect bullnosebible makes more sense. Thinking about it deeper though that fits perfectly with the documentation portion of the site but maybe not quite as much with the forum. That may be overthinking it though.

I really like this one. Clean and simple. On the first line of text, what about just the url (whichever url Gary wants)?

Great! Nope, nothing needs unplugged. The 'new' wire is pulling power from the connector you just found. So it's not that you are providing two sources to the tailgate switch if that's what you are thinking. It's one source from the fuse block feeding both the tailgate window AND the door windows.

Just to followup. Took it in this morning and they had to pull it. Turns out the tape didn't seal well to the cab. They replaced it with urethane.

That looks great!

And something to be said for being able to make them yourself. I really like the smooth cylinder look.

I am using a number of these in varying lengths as standoffs for the fender platforms. https://www.ebay.com/itm/392093482280

I really like those stainless steel standoffs. So your ground strap (not the fender one) goes from one end of the hood hinge to the other? Maybe I missed it but is that factory? I am thinking I've only ever seen them from the cab sheet metal to the hood sheet metal.

I agree with the question about the single, uninterrupted wire. But on the question of a separate wire that didn't have the splice, that's hard to figure out from the MPC. Let's await an answer on the other question? Sounds good. I'll sit back and watch so we aren't talking over each other (where's that popcorn emoticon when you need it ). I should probably rephrase 'separate wire' to avoid anyone else misreading that. To better say it: I wonder if they had two versions of the LB/BK circuit depending upon the Bronco options.

That S850 is a splice. So it's taking the power (+12v) from the fuse block and feeding both the rear window and the door windows. You shouldn't need to unhook anything from the rear window circuit but rather there should be a loose connector like you were looking for to hook into. Going from the switch (or from the fuse block side) gives us a solid point to reference. Gary - I wonder if they had a separate wire that had or didn't have the splice/second connector depending on if the Bronco had power doors or not? Chad - essentially what we need to know is if the LB/BK wire from the back of the fuse block goes straight to the rear window switch as a single, uninterrupted wire.

Excuse my ignorance on Broncos but you have the rear window switch, correct? If so can you follow it back to find the LB/BK wire that comes off of it? It appears the Bronco has a jumper/slice that should also have a plug for the blue connector. In a pickup there is still the connector but it goes straight to the fuse block.

Posting these here for quick reference:

Great! Working on these trucks there are times when 5 or 6 arms aren't enough

I was actually thinking of just the lines that make up the common features (not sure how to convert a photo to that easily) but I do like the black and white. Plus, there are quite a few graphics that are just the outline out there so disregard and keep up the good work.

Thanks Jim. Just placed an order for those gaskets. Will keep an eye out for those valve covers. I want to stick with the stock design but would like to get away from the steel. Found a set of QFT black ones I like the look of but since I am using that hole behind the drivers side valve cover to run all my add-on wiring (and there is a lot of it) I am afraid the tall ones might crowd that area.

I agree - very sharp combination.

Stock on my 460 and that is my preference. A PO replaced the one on my 400 with some cheap chrome job and someday I might get around to replacing it with a stock one.