kramttocs

Right, the starter is the only factory function I have come across yet that the micros won't work for. You likely mentioned it but will the PDB itself handle the amps of the larger Bosch relay? I don't know anything about the PDB's but just know with the unit I am using it has per terminal and per connector maxes.

Yeah, I don't know if these are interchangeable with that box but the ones I am using are: (8 of them) ISO 280 Micro Relay with Resistor NO Amp: 35A NC Amp: 20A Volt Rating: 12V I decided I didn't feel comfortable running the starter through one so I am keeping the fender mount. Plus, I didn't want to have to add complication in the wiring of the fuel pump 'on start' circuit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dee-Zee-206-Extruded-Aluminum-Running-Boards-1980-1986-Full-Size-Ford-Bronco/193366683469?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dee-Zee-201-Extruded-Aluminum-Running-Boards-1980-1986-F150-F250-350-Regular-Cab/202919542484?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 Good prices even with shipping.

Same here. Just got mine installed the night before last. stillwaterobsolete had a number of nos units on ebay not too long ago. I had considered using a diesel tray at one time. Don't see any reason why it wouldn't work.

Subscribed. Interested to see what you end up doing here.

Those are nice.

This chart shows the 3 I was referring to: https://www.eastwood.com/x-mat Part numbers: 15826, 15825, 15841 Went with them based on being happy with Eastwood products in the past, they were having a sale, positive reviews, and the tech support guys I talked to about them were very helpful.

Doesn't look terrible. Not sure about from the side though. You can see the side a little on Brewtl's truck above but this one doesn't look quite as substantial. Looks like the instructions were added to the listing. Pretty generic.

Done. Thanks Cory!

Something like this one below. The big front spoilers were not hugely popular on the trucks, but they were available back in the day. I believe Lund used to make them as well. Like Gary says...they were very popular on the vans though...they had a street culture all their own back then. My old 1980 F100 had a roof spoiler on it...they were pretty rare too, but I did see two of them for sale a year or so ago...same kinda deal...unpainted originals that were never installed. I don't have an account on that site so doesn't look like I can send a message. Would you want to see if the seller could take some photos of the installation sheet?

You're right - I think I recall seeing the same. This might give people more flexibility regarding color exact matches (without repainting). While the vent portion would be seen if you looked, it wouldn't be quite as bad being a different shade as compared to having the kickpanel and dash not match where they are next to each other. Different shades of kickpanel and vent may even look good.

I think you'd have a difficult time getting them sealed well and still looking good since they have the finishing ring built in. So that ring would hook to the visible side of the kickpanel but you would want to seal it against the back of the block-off plate which has to be installed before the kickpanel. Not sure how you can do both.

The cowl/rain gutter. It's the same place the hvac system gets its external air.

This is the sound deadening I have in my Ranger. Stuff went on great, and I have zero complaints. However, I have no idea how the price compares to other products. I don't know if I would recommend using as much as I did (shown below) but I barely hear any outside noise inside my truck. FatMat RattleTrap Sound Deadening http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n52400/Rattle_Trap.jpg Kill Mat and other brands probably are all close in price. There honestly is no difference in them its all the same stuff. 80mil butyl sheets with a foil back that adds a bit of insulation but mostly hampers vibrations. I think the killmat rand me about $55 bucks for 36 sqft. But it was also in sheets instead of a roll. I really like the Eastwood offering. They have 3 different kinds - the thick asphalt kind for the floor and firewall, a thin lightweight foam for doors, and a thick really lightweight for the ceiling. I can't say enough good stuff about the door kind.

They don't, not really. You remove the non vent kick panels, unscrew and remove the flat cover, and then bolt these on. Then these are just manually operated so you have to open and close as needed. They are really just a non-electrical alternative to the Vent setting. If you leave the drivers side open during the winter you'll know it quickly After sealing the cowl in the 1 ton I'd left them off for awhile when winter kicked in and it creates quite the cold draft. ...looks like Gary was quicker on the draw

Well done. Pretty simple design after all.

Good point - one could pull a neutral block from a panel, cut to length, and accomplish the same thing with even more screw points.

Appreciate it!

So are these being made by somebody now? Mine were in pretty good condition, but still, be good to know if they are available. They are or at least they were. I don't see the fresh air ones on the Detroit Muscle Technologies site anymore so they may have been pulled until they get the last one sorted. This is the same company that makes the HVAC kit. They do excellent work.

Here is the gasket I mailed to the gentleman in Oct that is the missing one.

Some photos. Note: the 4 new gaskets are two identical sets but the outer passenger and inner passenger are similar enough to make work. Driver against cab metal Passenger against cab metal Driver between halves (this is the missing gasket) Passenger between halves

Yeah - that's them. They do have the best warranty.

Thanks Dane. Was working in getting the cb antenna wiring figured out so may be directing some questions your way The factory hole in the cowl is too small for the Tri band antenna end so I unsoldered it from the splitter board today and will solder it back in after running it through the hole.

May not be the best place for this but since it was mentioned earlier... On the Cole Hersee smart battery isolator, what would the amp requirement for the Boost switch? Is it the: Active High, 250mA value from here? https://m.littelfuse.com/~/media/commercial-vehicle/application-guides/littelfuse-if-161-48525-smart-battery-isolator.pdf I know it shouldn't be much but am looking at mini momentary switches and I found one with the correct dimensions with these specs: - Rating Voltage: DC 50V - Rating Current: 0.5A