kramttocs

Maybe for whatever they were hauling often, that was the sweet spot for the controller power output? Just a guess.

Nice! CB doc is really neat to have.

I'm leaning towards their bench but also really like the buckets like they used in their bullnose build. Reading through the build thread it sounds like they provided the dash and it looks similar to that nice red one in the 'horse leather' truck for sale awhile back. I don't see it on their site though.

Sold for $1025!!!

Truck drw aren't my thing either (but c&c's are) so I don't know what years the trucks had what offerings but drw conversions weren't uncommon so I was thinking more of a 4wd srw converted to drw.

I thought that was the only way to order a dually 4x4, no? You are on a roll with finding some nice ones. But C&C's weren't offered in supercabs and 86 was the first year for those to be 4wd. The vin is also for a truck vs a c&c. So maybe a srw 1ton converted? Would explain the fenders.

Very nice! Glad to see it already getting that bid. Yeah, not far from me at all.

These are based off the ones I sent to him but I need to check as there was some confusion on the differences between left and right and which pieces were the same. Can't recall if these look to have all 4 correct pieces or not as I let him keep them.

Oh, why not? I think you should I detailed my tcase and then painted it with the Eastwood cast aluminum paint and then clearcoated it. Can't say if it will last too long under there but if/when it comes out again, it's getting coated.

And here I thought I had a limited edition truck One of my 86's has those things-

The more I look at the door panels the more they grow on me. Tastefully done. Combine this with a leather dash like that recent for sale pickup and it'd be sharp. I prefer the stock look but nice to have the option.

Interested to see how the mod goes. I thought they were similar (have only seen 1356 pictures) in that regard aside from the case material so when I was swapping the back half of my 1345 I considered doing the 1356 mod but I didn't find any wear. Depending on what you find I may put it on my future improvements list.

Looking good Gary! What is the 1345 oil pump mod? I know the 1356 had the retaining arm wear issue but hadn't heard of a mod for the 1345.

Looks like it was pulled (sold locally, offer made, etc). I'd post in the wanted section but are you looking for the tcase, front tank, rear tank or all three?

Very neat. Nice job!

Sorry, I think I am still missing something. I am completely on board with as few a splices as possible but in this case I don't see how a new connector helps since you are removing a wire/terminal from a connector (going from 4 to 3). I may need a picture

Genuinely interested as I haven't done my rewiring in this area yet besides on paper - what is the goal with a new one?

I think it's the location that is putting us on different pages now that I looked at the diagram again. Correct me if I am wrong but you are saying to take the bottom-most DG/Y (in the dash), splice into it with another wire that goes to ground when the relay is triggered? Whereas I was working in the engine bay and using the top DG/Y and splitting that so that when the relay isn't triggered the module and coil are connected but when it is triggered the coil is taken to ground. Although in my case taking it to ground is likely redundant since disconnecting the wires would prevent starting. The better security of the dash location aside, both would be functionally equivalent, correct?

It's a molded one so you won't actually get to the terminal of it without tearing it up if that's what you mean.

I've been thinking that you want the relay to be "set", meaning pulled in, all the time when the security system is armed. Assuming that the "-500 ma" means it will sink up to 500 ma then you tie that to 85 as you said. And in this scenario the power to 86 needs to be hot at all times so the security system can set the relay. The down side of doing it this way is that the relay is pulling 150 - 200 ma all the time the security system is set. So over time the battery is going to be pulled down. Given that, perhaps your suggestion of having power to the relay in Start & Run is better. If the thief tries uses the ignition switch or if they just run a jumper to the hot side of the coil the relay will set and ground the ignition. But the wire going to the coil's tach post should go to 87, and 30 should go to ground. That way when the relay is set the coil is grounded, and since that's what the ignition module does the module can't cause the ignition to spark. However, I'd use the tach wire in the cab rather than put the wiring under the hood. That way there's no way they can hot-wire the truck unless then get into the cab, find the relay, and disable it. And I'd do the wiring from above with the dash pad off. I left 87 blank but meant to put 87 - Ground. Wouldn't that perform the same action? I am really enjoying getting into the use of relays but am not yet to the point where I can easily picture it in my head. In your setup are you having two wires going into 87? In essence are you splicing into that wire vs splitting it like I was thinking? Trying to picture how the truck would run if the system isn't armed. I can see the real benefit of having it up in the dash.

Pretty sure when I swapped to a drained pan I put in 4qts, started the truck and let it warm up, then filled to the dipstick line.

Yep, check this out: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1339746-how-to-swap-amp-meter-to-volt-meter.html No real need for a relay though and a 1 amp fuse will suffice - the voltmeter isn't any real load. I am using the LG/R trigger wire that is also in c610.

I had one of these kits installed in the driver's seat of a 2007 Honda Civic my wife had for a while. It worked well while we had the car...which was only 3-4 years. Had a local Autoglass shop install it oddly enough...it was next to where my wife was working at the time. There was nothing special about the kit...I remember looking at the exact one on Amazon at the time. Good to hear. Most seem to have good reviews on Amazon.

Not wanting to get into later model seats being swapped in that have heaters integrated but rather the aftermarket kits/pads that can be added to any seat. Curious if anyone here has installed these and how well they work. I am primarily interested in cloth bucket seats (supercab) but would also be interested on both vinyl and cloth bench seat experiences. Steve has a photo on them at supermotors.

It's definitely a mess everywhere around here. The tear down part of the jy was pretty deep due to the skid steers but the back lot was just slimy. I think I got everything I needed though. I realize that most will opt for direct splices vs the jumpers but I'll still take some pictures of my process - if nothing else it will show the connectors/wires that are of interest. The whole taking the tach to ground part. Would that be- 30 - wire going to coil tach post 87 - 87a - wire coming from ignition module 85 - FROM security module when armed (-500mA) 86 - constant +12v (should this be only in Start/Run?)