kramttocs

I may give the Napa version a try. While it might be a stock photo, it looks better and the petals look shorter.

Jim - Dave's correct that the bolts/threadlocker were just to bolt metal to metal - reconnecting the dash support together in place of the spot welds but I think's it's important to make people aware of that concern when using threadlocker near plastic so glad you mentioned it. Prior to putting this truck back together and using a lot of threadlocker (switching all the bolts that I can to stainless and they need the lubrication) I'd never thought about it with plastic. Dave - yes, it would definitely be possible to replace the humped piece with a new flat custom made piece instead of cutting and welding. At least for my own abilities, using the original piece left less room for error and ensured that the ends lined up correctly. I will say that I cut out a humped piece from a scrapped dash just in case I wanted to swap it back so if one doesn't have access to a parts truck, then custom making one would leave the original intact for that option.

You make a good point As for the balun - if I understand what a balun is, then I don't believe so. Just the splitter inside the cab. I figure the antenna is like most combination items - good at them all but great at none. Just the guy I have questions for then...once I figure out how to ask them and what I am wanting to accomplish.

Thanks! Hopefully the bezel part pans out.

Thanks Gary - appreciate it! Scrounged up some photos from this summer so hopefully this helps. I would really like to know how others have done it. I've seen a few photos of double dins in these trucks but I think the only details on an install I ever recall seeing was one where they cut through the a/c duct. That was a bit more intrusive of a change than I was willing to make (although some may say the same of my changes). This could all be done with the dash in the truck using a flexible rotary attachment and some [a lot of] patience but definitely easier with the dash out. Going to repeat some of what I've posted in the previous posts but makes sense to have it all together. First off, ignore my floral shop couch . One of those pieces of furniture that has been passed around from family member to family member. The factory radio sits on/clips to a hump in the metal framework of the dash. Between this hump at the bottom and the a/c duct at the top, there isn't enough room for a double din unit. Since going up wasn't an option, the hump had to go. I drilled out the rivets on either side and removed the short humped section I don't have any photos of this but using the 3 drilled out holes on either end, I screwed the piece to a board and traced around the ends for good measure. The two ends are in the same plane - or close enough for this to work. I then cut the hump in half and flattened both ends. Screwed them back to the board and marked the overlap. Unscrewed and cut off the overlap (half from each side). Next I welded them together and ground it down. After blasting and painting the support structure I bolted the now flat piece back in using button head bolts and threadlocker. Once the dash was back installed in the truck I measured equal distances from both edges using the width of the double din cage and cut the bottom two holes that the factory radio mounted to as well as the lip between them so that it was a flat 'shelf'. I used a coping saw and a file. This allowed the cage to slide it. Once in though it hit part of the rolled edge of the support on the drivers side. There is about 3/8" where the rolled edge of the mating section to the now flat piece extends further to the passenger side. This corner is what I had to remove with the dremel and file. I also had to use the dremel to remove a little off the top of the button head bolt that is inline with that corner. This has been done in the photo above. Now the cage can slide in and rest on the flat support. The plan once I get everything lined up is to drill two holes in the support and the cage and rivet them together. I would recommend drilling the holes in the support piece earlier in the process. I didn't because I wasn't sure how I would secure the cage and didn't want extra holes for no reason but after seeing it I am thinking riveting makes the most sense. Once the cage was in there I test fit the head unit. The cage I bought (and they all may) had two pieces that you bolt onto the sides of the head unit with a number of slots allowing you to adjust how far in or out the head unit locks into the cage. With it all the way in, which is too far for a finished install, there is plenty of room behind it to hook up the cables. Once I get the truck back together and running I will work on cutting the factory bezel and seeing what is needed for a trim piece to make it look professional.

Just wanted to show some photos of an alternative to the hard to find factory tri band antenna (for a photo of that see Shaun's post in the eBay section from Oct). Picked this up on eBay last week and installed it today. It's an Archer combo antenna that Radio Shack sold. I don't know how common they are. It is specified for cars but the pictures looked close enough to give it a try. It includes the base and gasket like on our trucks but they aren't slanted so you have to rotate a ring to get it lined up right. It lined up perfectly after a few attempts and I don't think it looks too far from factory. While we would know it's not, I doubt anyone else would. Haven't decided if I'll keep it on there or not but just wanted to add some photos in case anyone in the future thinks about installing one. #21-990

My wife and kids were out shopping today and the weather was nice so spent most of it working on the truck. Got the power windows/locks harness installed across the dash and in both doors. It didn't have them originally although one of the previous owners had installed that add on set the essentially cranks the window for you. Wanted to get some more wiring done but ran into a snag with some terminals (posted in the tools section in TheScatch's thread ) so instead finished up the roof insulation and some other odds and ends. Seems likes the odds and ends are never ending. Since it required making a little bit of a mess I went ahead and cut out the dash for the headunit. Really happy with how it came out. It required very minimal cutting - just a portion of the lower lip cut flush. This was after already flattening the dash support bar earlier this year while it was out. This was inside the metal shop but GPS seemed good enough considering. Then I got distracted...http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif Back to the terminals - anyone know the part number for the blade style ones? For example the one used for the cab lights - the single plug down on the driver side kick panel.

Factory and mine before crimping. Using this little jumper to learn (unsuccessfully) on. Looks too big to me (not the female end).

Page 3 of the "Hook'em Up Loose" thread I do a wedge lock connector. Alright, I am doing something wrong. Trying to crimp a few wedge locks (would be happy with just one good one right now as I've thrown away a lot). I got the "Clipsandfasteners Inc 25 Wedge Lock Terminals 20-18 Gauge .110 Male Pin Dia." The .110 is correct and fits in the factory female terminal. I just can't get it to crimp tight. It either wads it up or the wire is loose enough to pull out. I am using the HS-30J. The terminal is 20-18 which I believe is what the smallest slot on the crimpers is but it won't fit without wadding it up. The terminal fits really well in the second one and it looks good but is too loose. My first thought was that I got sent the next size up instead of 20-18 but I don't see that there is another offering even. Thoughts?

For autos to release the cylinder there is an open hole you push an awl or pick in. The retaining block just keeps the actuator in and aligned while supporting it for the wheel lock. It may also serve as an upper stop so you aren't yanking on the ignition switch itself. Not positive on that. Not sure about a MT though - it may match what you're describing.

And for the retaining block screw I don't know how likely but I guess worst case without it would be the upper actuator pushing it up and it getting jammed, locking up the wheel. Again, not likely but I'd put a screw in it.

And this is maxed out (start) in the clockwise direction. The ear my thumb is on is the bottom one normally - the one that doesn't say LOCK. So it almost does a full 180 from the lock position.

Yes, this is in acc:

Not a sidetrack at all. The springs are shot. They literally just bounce around and provide no tension, they act more like a bearing/sleeve than anything. They are kept on by Ford machining the end of the bar into 3 petals. I cut those petals off and was going to play around with insetting a piece of all thread which a new spring, washer and nut could fit over. Subscribed. I've also wondered about tapping what is there and adding a bolt for adjustable tension. I like the all thread better though as the bolt would add stress that the existing tube might not handle. Like you, I don't want cloth ones. When I get to that point I plan on having an upholstery shop see about exposing the rod on mine similar to the later ones.

Merry Christmas! Wait, this means I have to search ebay myself...aww man.

So you're thinking the Combination Tu-tone? I really like the 86 Dark Shadow Blue Metallic with white. Good looking color. Another example of the color but in the Victorian scheme (have looked at this truck way too much): https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1986-ford-f-250/ You're keeping the tan/black interior, right? Is the 79 a true blue? It kind of reminds me of the Nightmist blue on my 65 Mustang. Can be blue or green depending on the light. Might be worth taking a piece of your tan trim to some truck shows and put it next to a color you like to get a feel for it since sitting in the drivers seat you'll be seeing them next to each other a lot. I took one of my a pillar trims to a lot of dealerships when trying to find my color.

Nice shape https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/cto/d/tacoma-1981-ford-150/7041619518.html

Nice find! Neat item. I think I'd prefer the longer one in the ad photo as it looks like it butts nicely against the dome light. Those Centurions are interesting.

Ah gotcha. I was afraid my reference to your comment may have come across in a different way than I meant it and wanted to correct my wording if so.

Great! Glad it was an easy one. Who are you talking to?

Sounds like the pin at the end of the lock cylinder just snapped. So to replace you'll just have to remove the cylinder, dig out the broken pin that will be inside the gear and replace. Worst case would be like Jim said and the actuator teeth sheared off. This will be a more involved process but before worrying about that, remove the cylinder and see. Return the actuator rod to the acc position (all the way up) and then install the new cylinder. If something is binding though, I'd see about replacing the ignition switch also. Otherwise you'll be in the same boat with the new cylinder.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-1986-ERTL-3506-MARC-32-Pickup-Truck-Programmable-On-board-Computer-RARE/193259780173?hash=item2cff2e384d:g:-2cAAOSw~5Rd98AB For all you "Flairside" owners

I don't have a great close up photo but the 3rd photo in the Camano thread is a padded wheel. Also, Quarterwave has a nice wood one

My 86 has it. Could be wrong but I don't believe it was a rare option as I've seen a number of them around here. All Lariats. As far as other options there have been a few nice woodgrain aftermarket ones I've seen people using.

Anyone know if these can be modified to have a PA mode? Figure if one was to put one in, might as well have some fun with it.