kramttocs

Thanks Gary. That's the route I would like to take unless it cause any problems and more needs done. May try and test it out today. Hoping to add some wiring to the relay block and it will be the easiest since the blower wiring is all right there.

Thanks guys. Follow most of it but a little unclear on the best solution. Sounds like it may be the relays on all paths but not sure of the ROI of that. The relay specs are a good thing to note - the iso 280 micros I am using are 35/20. OK, so the diode is not needed in any situation? Whether you do the hot side relay only or relays on all paths (+ and -)? So that can be disregarded completely? Obviously the hot relay only is the easiest to implement for people and sounds like it will have benefits without adding any new drawbacks that aren't already there from factory. Correct? OR will this increase the chance of the speed switch failing since increasing the + will also increase the - side through the switch? So ultimately, is just putting the hot relay in at C603 BR/O and making no other changes an acceptable, safe, worthwhile modification? Or as was mentioned earlier and in Mike's diagram, is a relay on the + side and one on the High ground side the best solution after relays everywhere?

Hey Dane. Glad to know it's not just me (misery loves company?). Are you applying the silicone to the tracks with the window down or is your inner panel off? Curious if you saw the same flex.

Can you explain more about the need/benefit of the second ground relay as well as the proposed location (near a connector number on an EVTM page would be great)? I saw the same mention of this over on FTE. Edit - nevermind, was post happy and took me a minute to digest. I follow now. Would like some more on the diode part though. Why would it stick on high?

Haha I won't even go into some of the messy, complicated things I tried. Quickly (but not quickly enough) got to the point where I realized I was spending way more time on something trivial than I should be.

My truck came with the aftermarket power windows - the ones where a remote motor does the cranking for you with the manual regulator. I removed those during the disassembly of the truck and installed the factory setup during reassembly. Today I installed the drivers side window and got to test it out. There were a few things that stood out. I want to test tomorrow with loosening up the front and rear channel bolts so that may impact some of this as right now they are bolted down in the same spots as before (based on the washer grooves). The motors I got online, were well reviewed, and seem to work fine. Installed new sweeps and channel/run weatherstripping so this new tightness might contribute to some of this. The only power window Bullnose truck I have been in was my dad's while growing up and it's sitting in a field right now at my parents so I can't test with it. 1. The windows roll up with a constant speed but aren't super fast and sound like the motors are straining a bit. 2. In the full up position, the windows are tight and push the top weather stripping up into the channel a little. Not considering this a bad thing as it seems to seal well but just wanted to mention it. The concern is that the inner door panel flexes out noticeably when the window is pushed as far to the top as it will go for the motor to stop. Normal? 3. When coming down the windows look good to the point where they are even/level with the door. I wish it would stop at that point. Instead it goes further down and the back edge (latch edge) goes quite a bit lower than the front edge. Additionally, when it's as far down as it will go and I look at the bottom of the channel (latch edge), the glass, because it's tilted back, is out of the channel and titling toward the exterior of the door. The front channel (vent window) also flexes quick a bit when the glass is about to the end of the travel. If I could somehow stop the motor earlier it would prevent this scenario. Tomorrow afternoon when I test it I may try to take some videos as I am not sure I explained #3 well and it would also benefit 1 and 2.

See, now that's a good, simple idea that will no doubt work great Was definitely making it way too complicated. Thanks!

I may have asked this before but can't recall for sure. The linkage in the tailgate originally had some foam around them. I assume this was for anti-rattling but that's just a guess. Now that stuff just falls apart. Any clever suggestions on something to replace it with? Haven't found any pipe insulation that goes that small with the ID. I've tried a handful of things but none of them worked out all that well.

Thanks for the guidance; I appreciate the help. I had an electrical fire; basically all of the wiring behind the dash needs to be replaced. With that clarification; don't I need to find one with auto windows/doors? Hey. Yes, the 'across the dash' and fuse box wiring for the windows/locks is likely shot with the rest. I just wanted to let you know that it is separate and can be found/added later if needed.

Thanks Jim! I used one when I converted my ford tractor from points and it's been reliable. Good to know it's not that different from stock and is a direct replacement.

Was reading up on these (40,000 1.5ohm) for the 460. Stock vs it comparison aside, if this was used would something need done with the wiring because of the resistor wiring between splice 401 and 216 (pretty sure those are the numbers - couldn't zoom in well on my phone)?

You aren't kidding. Great looking truck for sure but that bed liner...

Not bad at all! Would consider that combo about as good as one would hope for used.

Haha that it would. I was actually really tempted at the novelty of it but in practice I know it would get thrown in the door pocket pretty quickly. Hopefully someone here gets it and reports back on it. Wonder if it only works pre-flapper?

That is neat. Also likely one of those things that after a few times at the pump ends up rolling around the floor board

Don't worry about limiting your search by power windows/locks. That is a separate harness with some push in fuse retaining blocks. If you find a truck with all of it, great but don't turn one away just for missing those. Now 'fuse box wire harness'. What exactly are you looking for and how much of it? That whole harness is big - includes a lot of stuff across the dash and through the firewall.

Just found this out last week also Bought a couple sets for my truck without doing much research only to find out neither set fits either front or back of a 4wd 250. Either wrong threads or too short to fully seat. If anyone does find some that work for that application, please let us know.

That I did. Was this part too vague? "I have no hesitation saying I will never again buy from or recommend Parts Geek to anyone. Horrible customer service."

Well I had a good summary of my experience with Parts Geek all typed up but then chrome gave me the 'aw, snap' error when I tried to post. Probably for the best in the end though. Long story short, I am pretty forgiving of online retailers since things happen, people make mistakes, and software isn't infallible. That said though, I have no hesitation saying I will never again buy from or recommend Parts Geek to anyone. Horrible customer service. Sorry you had to deal with them.

Haha very good point. Mystery solved

Turns out the blurb on 106 of the 86 EVTM gives some detail on it.

The 1985 EVTM links are even better than I was thinking of! I always go to the 86 so hadn't ever seen those. --- We are almost on the same page First, I am planning to hook everything back up like factory so just curious about the workings of it since it wasn't hooked up when I got it. Yes, the battery side fuse link S that ultimately makes its way to the fuel pumps via the relay (triggered by oil pressure switch) was always connected. It's the 'HOT IN START' fuse link T that wasn't (second photo you posted). I believe this primes/fills the carb until the oil pressure is enough to trigger the switch and then fuse link S takes over. So guessing that if you crank it long enough the pressure will build up (even before the engine is running) and cause the fuel pumps to kick in via fuse link S.

THE blue one of course Had actually thought I'd referred to it in more detail in the first post but looks like I didn't. This is the blue one that connects to the starter relay. Fuse Link T. Looks like it turns into PK/BK after the fuse but that is under my aluminum plate so can't visually confirm. *little side question - can a hyperlink be added to the top of the individual EVTM pages that allows one to go back to the EVTM topic page? The back button usually works but I often go to these pages from my search history. Not a big deal.

Since I was hooking some of this up yesterday I was going through my disassembly notes/photos. This blue wire wasn't hooked up on the truck when I got it and this was confirmed by needing to dig out crud from the push connector that goes to the starter relay. I only drove the truck in winter weather for a couple months before I took it down to the redo. It started great the majority of the time BUT if it didn't start fairly quickly it took quite a bit of cranking though. I am still learning about the whole hot-fuel setup but would this plug being unhooked cause that because it's not filling the carb while in start? Or is this whole harness somewhat optional with mixed results?

I have the Eastwood dual voltage gun and have been very happy with it. I tried some other brands of powder but never liked them so I have stuck with Eastwood only. Harbor Freight has stainless wire just like Eastwoods. I tried the green bottle (eco-friendly, low voc, or something) from Walmart once and kept getting moisture trails so I only use the red full strength - and a lot of it. Using a Craigslist full size electric oven. This works for the vast majority of parts on these trucks. Someday I might get a big oven like Gary has but until then I take the large stuff to a local shop. Usually if it's too large for the oven it's a pain to handle in my blasting cabinet also. Disposable gloves are a must. The silicon plugs are great - just remember to remove at least one end from a tube before cooking or you'll panic when you hear the pop Let us know if you go for it. It's addicting.