kramttocs

And if Gary doesn't I know I do. Had it in my hand tonight while going through my box of spare wiring/connectors.

I didn't even think about voltage drop. If I was going about this differently I would hands down look into replacing the factory relay with a bosch style. Even securing a bosch relay to the same bolt as the factory relay and wiring it inline would still be clean. And at least it gives others some options. I don't have another relay like that in my shop but next time I get to my parents (parts trucks) or jy I'll pull one and test it. But unfortunately, like you stated, neither of those really fit with my standard...approach(?). Whatever the word would be. So I made a factory looking jumper to go between where the DB wire connects to the yellow wire (for dual horns) up by the left hand turn signal I have a plan for how the final relay will be installed and wires routed but for right now I have just hooked up one of the fused relays and have it hanging out on the drivers side platform. I think that leaves the Ground When Armed /Starter Kill as the only thing left before a guide can be put together.

Nice work on the tach! Check this out on the clock: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/digital-clock1.html

The starship Enterprise is the kind Luke used in Big Blackie. That design is odd enough it sticks with you. That may be the same thread as the map light conversation also. Its over on FTE. Interested in your results.

Oh man, really thought I had responded over a week ago on this. The intake actually isn't powdercoated...yet. It was installed before that addiction kicked in. I was able to clean it off surprisingly well though with some brake cleaner on a rag. I appreciate the suggestions for those spreaders. I've heard people talk about them before but never had a need to look up a picture. I can see how they'd be a easy fix to the problem. Jim - to quote my grandfather, you ain't a woofin. I removed the valve covers tonight and the areas around the holes are on a whole other plane than the rest of it. Those things were cranked down hard. As for the baffles part I had picked up some M/T Holley cast valve covers on ebay not too long ago. The one baffle they came with was a cut up and folded beer can. I got lucky and found a guy with some old stock although making them wouldn't have been a big deal. They are about the bare minimum to get the job done. While waiting on those I had the covers powdercoated - I really wanted to do them myself but I didn't want to experiment with the fins (stripping pc for a redo is a pain without the right stuff). The baffles arrived this afternoon so I installed them, chased all the holes in the head, and installed the vc's. The Real Gaskets are nice. Hoping the leaking issue will be solved. Excuse the engine and firewall wiring. It's still in flux.

I keep going back and forth It would definitely be one less thing to go wrong. Out of curiosity I measured the draw of the relay by hooking one lead to the test wire that was jammed in the female spade terminal (for DB) of the connector and then pushed onto the relay. The other lead I grounded. Horn went off (strong sound) and the multimeter showed a .15 draw. I would have expected the 200mA to handle it but guess not.

I agree with Jim in that if you change to led there won't be a concern with power usage or heat. If you do want to add a switch I wouldn't mess with the internal switch or the ground but just add one inline with the connector by the brake booster. If the hood is up the internal switch will be making contact anyways so no point removing it.

Also you can get a clear lens (it has a crisscross pattern in it) for the main dome light. I replaced mine with one when I swapped in the led and the combination was significantly brighter than stock.

Nice job! Thanks for the drawing and explanation. I ran into the same issue with my supercab. Ended up going through 5 different jy supercabs until I found a harness that wasn't bad but I still epoxied around them to help strengthen them. Terrible design unless you never have to touch it. As for the light, I left the factory ones in mine as I couldn't find a replacement I was happy with. I did read in a thread somewhere that someone removed the lenses and found some domed led bulbs that supposedly fit in there pretty well.

Thanks a lot for adding that 96 doc. Good news and bad news on the factory horn relay. It works but not well enough. I guess the 200mA output isn't enough to fully energize that style of relay. So instead of honking it just kind of does a very quiet and weak grunt. I twist-wired in a ground triggered/ground out relay with the output still going to the DB of the factory relay and ground trigger being the 200mA from the Viper module to test with and it works great. Honks the same as if you use the steering wheel button. At least with any system that only output 200mA, it appears a newer style relay is needed. Could be: 1. Inline (before the factory relay like in my testing) 2. In place of the factory relay 3. In the engine bay with a ground triggered/12v out relay directly feeding the hot side of the horn 3 is what I was originally going to go with and looks like I am back to that

Good deal. Shoot me your info in an email.

That's what I am hoping. I know I've taken over this thread but I assume the stuff I am running into will be pretty generic for all systems. Once I get everything finalized I'll consolidate it and add photos. The 535T Window module is a bit out there so if I cover it, I'll do it in another thread or my build thread to avoid any confusion in this one.

Very true, didn't even think about that Thanks for that confirmation - that is great news for those with speed control. On the keyless entry module I am installing and most I have found for comparison, the horn output (for Panic mode and lock/unlock confirmation) is a ground output. So no 'user supplied' relay is needed and the DB wire for the factory relay can be hooked into instead.

Am I reading the Horn Relay (for speed control trucks) correctly in that it is ground triggered? So the DB wire (notated 1) at the bottom right of the relay image that goes to the speed control switch is open but goes to ground when the horn button on the steering wheel is pressed?

A solution to those easily broken connectors would be great. I am having a little trouble picturing your entire solution though - have anymore photos?

If keeping with the originals what is the gain by getting rid of the internal switches? Really like that image of the lit up bay and will have to keep an eye out for that HF light.

Can confirm it works great! Easy to hook up (even with clearance lights) and having all the exterior lights (sans headlights) light up when locking and unlocking looks really good.

I swapped mine out for stainless on the rebuild so you are welcome to them. Threw all my old bolts in a box and stuck it on a shelf. If it helps they are M8 x 45mm uhl.

Thanks Gary. Yes it does and that confirms my thinking...unfortunately. Should this post be edited to avoid any future confusion? What about forgoing the hazard circuit and hooking into the connector (C906) behind the drivers kick panel that is for the cab clearance lights? So using the parking light circuit instead. This would be a really easy hookup for people to make and even for those of us that have clearance lights it is still easy to work with. The only downside (flashing the clearance lights is a pro for me) would be that it would dim the radio and dash lights briefly but I can't think of a situation where that would be noticed.

Hooked up the interior "Supervision" part of it last night. I tied it directly into the passenger underdash light circuit by cutting off the factory terminal and adding a new one with both the factory wire and the module's wire. Was surprised to find that the local auto parts store could get the terminals in the same day. Standard CG60 Next is the parking light/hazard indicators. Earlier in this thread there was reference to using the LG/W and W/BL wires that come out of the hazard switch (steering column) but also the W/R [H] wire that goes from the Hazard flasher and into the switch. The W/R would be ideal but looking at the switch diagram, does that work? That circuit won't make it's way to the lights unless the hazard tab is pulled out on the column, right?

Just keeps us on our toes:nabble_smiley_happy:

Thanks. Looks great and that's one sharp interior!

You could and it would work just fine. I was going to say that but I figured someone would comment about wanting the eyelet to have direct contact instead of just through the screw(gambled and lost ) You could also just wrap the ground cable around the edge of the abs but would be more of a pain to install.

It does but that would just require drilling a hole larger than the eyelet through the abs.