kramttocs

Hey Gary, I don't believe it is. The core support has been blasted/coated and the builder took the liberty of spray painting my valve covers blue.. I do have photos and videos I could look through but I am 99% sure I didn't see anything unusual. The truck was bought from a WA dealership and lived it's whole life in something like a 100 mile radius until I shipped it to Mo.

I like that Mityvac Bruce I have a liquivac and it works pretty well.

I've only ever seen these on diesels. My 84 and 86 6.9 F250 supercabs both have them but none of the gas trucks do. Same story in the jy. Did they come on gas trucks?

This setup came off my 1986 F250 460. The truck came from Washington and was registered/in use as of November 2018 when I purchased it. I removed the system in Feb 2019. While I never personally had it tested (we don't need to in Missouri) to my knowledge everything is in working condition. Sold as is just because I don't know how to verify it. The PO used the dealership for maintenance if that provides some assurance. Everything came off the truck without hassle, even the exhaust manifold tubes (I also have the manifolds still). The only issue I am aware of is one green vacuum line I broke when pulling the stuff out of the box for photos. There is an extra crossover tube that came from another truck I have. I haven't listed the individual components anywhere else yet as I'd prefer to sell as a bundle to someone here. Call me lazy I fully expect shipping to be around the $100 mark. UPDATE: The weight came out to 55 so using 60 for a buffer. I believe I can package it in a 24 x 15 x 12 box and still get padding in there. Shipping to Maine (just chose a random far state) FedEx was the cheapest with $108. I have a lot more photos that I can send anyone interested. PM me with your offer if interested.

This is what I found when measuring my two gvod trucks - both behind the tcase but one was a t19, the other a c6. The driveshafts were all the same length.

That's what I did when shipping a core support to the east coast but never again :) I know it's hit and miss with how something is handled but with something like this I'd be tempted to wrapped it really thick in some bubble wrap, take some large pieces of cardboard and pretty much tape the 'box' around it. Seems like if something is going to get tore up in shipping it doesn't matter if it's in an iron box or tissue paper.

On its way. Thanks!

I like this idea. Some small button head stainless bolts and nuts. Limits any risk to the door panel.

Hey Jim, I wasn't clear on that part. The track remains attached to the vent window (all one piece) and stays in the door. You just remove the bolt from where the ear on the track attaches to the inner door. The rear track (that is just a straight piece of track) is the important one as it moves a lot more and gives you the ability to get the glass out of the tracks. Speaking of- pulling the vent window assembly would give you a little more room to get the glass out but isn't necessary and I wouldn't bother with it unless one needs to do work on the vent window itself.

You don't have to unbolt the regulator but you do need to unbolt the front and rear tracks although the front won't move much. Then it's a matter or rolling up the window and tilting the window. There is a gap near the vent window you will utilize. I tape the door on either side to help protect it.

Disregard the door info I added. They definitely changed it up between the years!

Just caught up on the last several pages. I've missed a lot of good stuff. What pains me the most though is missing the opportunity for a good Fifth Element reference ("multi-pass") For the recirc door, I had it out to coat and re-foam and I am pretty sure it involved removing a sheet metal screw that secures the curved part of the hinge rod in a 'lip' on the door. Even with the screw removed it took a fair amount of prying to get the rod out of the door. Same effort to get it snapped back in.

I've always used Gates since they are available locally although I got my latest ones from RA. I have heard really good things about vbeltsupply though.

Sounds like a belt to me.

This will give you some good info: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/1981-explorer-brochure.html Reads like it's one step above the Custom with its own package options.

Deleted. Somehow missed in the first post that there was a small hole

I got mine from LMC. Threw them in as I needed some stuff only they carried. Length was fine. The bends were acceptable. No complaints in the end.

Must have used the cheap ones in that hole I'd read somewhere at sometime that there were different valves based on gvwr. So for posterity, this is from a 1986 F250 4wd Supercab 460/C6 Long bed 8800gvwr The plunger is green and on the head of the nut it looks like: Y. 6 over 13. 252

Good to know I am not alone. That thing didn't budge. As long as it was hot the bolt would turn like molasses but steady. As soon as it cooled it locked up again.

The truck stops like I'd expect although I've never had a non bypassed load sensing valve so I don't have a great comparison. This truck has the stock suspension (I recall you removing yours as it might not be accurate for BB's air bags) so it would be good to get it installed and see if there is any noticeable difference. I got to cleaning and organizing the shop so before I knew it I was working Jim's hours. I also tore apart a HD Distribution Valve that I need to post some photos in a new thread for. 'HD' for lack of a better identifier that I'll explain in that thread. For this lsv I am first going to see how well it cleans up and coats. It isn't exactly smooth in the plunger (I guess that's a better term then shuttle) shaft right now. I will have to be pretty confident in it before I go messing with what I know works safely right now.

Nice find. Really is beautiful. If it had ac I'd be tempted to make a drive. Would have to live in it in the driveway when I got home though... Has the aux battery setup also.

Curiosity got the better of me last night (along with the angst of seeing a part that wasn't powder coated). The PO had told me he had the rear brakes worked on shortly before selling. A quick look showed that the load sensing valve was just bypassed which didn't surprise me as most of the ones around here I see are a chunk of rust. I figure if I am going to put it back on, it needs to be checked out and see if it can be refurbished. So: First and foremost, use heat on the bracket to valve bolts. Being a west coast truck I haven't had any trouble with removing bolts, even the exhaust came apart without any effort. On this thing I snapped the first bolt clean off. The second bolt I used heat on and while it was pretty stiff, it came out easy enough. Fortunately the snapped off bolt came out of the back of the valve enough that I could grind a slot in it and using heat and a flathead, get it out. I just used a propane torch but due to the plastic parts, I'd do this after the internal part disassembly. The rest of it was just trial and error until it came apart. First remove the spring loaded but Remove the shuttle. I used needle nose pliers and it was a bear to get out. This left teeth marks that I don't think will be an issue but I need to inspect further. I figured I'd tear something up the first time Remove the spring in the same hole. I had to work it out with the right angle pick as it was pretty content where it was. Remove the oring under the spring Remove the clip holding the plastic disc Remove the assembly (thread rod, the metal disc attached to it, and the plastic disc) together. To do this I used the nut to hold the assembly in a hole in my workbench and then pried up with two pry bars on either side. A puller should be made to do it correctly but it was 4am at this point so pry bars were appealing and luckily worked just fine. Not much else to it. The metal disc part has different surfaces on it that push the shuttle out or let it in depending on the rotation. Even if it doesn't get put back on the truck, it's nice to see what it's made up of.

That was another change during implementation I am taking the factory wire after the factory oil pressure switch and triggering the choke relay using that. No reason to add another switch when the 86 460 had it in my case. Sounds like this will be a great project and daily driver for your son.

I was going to use this in my supercab but ended up making my own. It came out of a later year truck. Missing one cup holder inserts and could use a good cleaning. Open to offers (plus shipping).

For details see: https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/door-glass-parts/power-window-kit This came out of my 86 F250. The power windows worked as expected although full disclosure that I only had the truck for a winter before I tore it down so I didn't use them much (but it was cold and they performed like normal power windows). I didn't know the lock actuators were in there until I got into the door. Best guess is they had keyless entry for them at some point as I do NOT have switches or any significant wiring for the locks. I tested all 4 and they all work and sound as you'd expect. Comes with what you see. I lost or tossed some of the sheet metal screws. I suspect this must be an early model of the lmc kit linked to. The handle covers are tan but could use a repaint. Asking $40 plus shipping. Happy to provide any additional information. Also note that if you want to install factory style switches but not do the full factory harness/regulator swap, you could easily wire them up to these.