kramttocs

Looks good in there! Did it say what pag oil it had in it? With all the discussion on A/C lately (you'd think it's warm or something outside right now...) there's been a few different oil recommendations so just curious what that manufacturer used. Again, Murray/4Seasons used pag46 in the new FS6. Would be good to get the values from other manufacturers and maybe even remans for the sake of data collection.

And I wasn’t too sure either! I think Gary nailed it! Probably saw it in the EVTM. Feeling fortunate, my A/C hasn’t given me any problems since I got it going again 2 or 3 years ago. Dane - no rush at all but next time you are in the truck and it has warmed up to operating temps could you put it in park and toggle the a/c on and off while watching tach? Curious if you see a drop like I am.

Thanks guys. I was out doing some other stuff in the truck just now and was playing some 90's country. I was afraid of this but with the sub enclosed in there I am getting some rattling of the lid so will have to put some SS screws/bolts to hold the top down solid. Also, the top is a 3M Rosewood vinyl I bought on eBay. It's a little more red than the dash but not terrible. Gary - until the next meet up you will always be 'the guy with the roller coaster'

Appreciate everyone's input. Once I got the actual temps I realized that while underhood it seemed really hot, the numbers weren't alarming. May try out the dual electric fans sometime though just to see how they compare.

Looking great! I didn't realize the Dana 60 turns tighter than the 50. That's good to know.

Getting the A/C going was the big thing lately on Camano but also worked on the center console. Thanks to a great 6yo helper I got it all wired and installed today. The truck came with a carpet covered console (seen in first post) that while it may not have won any beauty pageants, I liked the simplicity of it. It fit with the truck. The way it was built didn't fit with what I needed internally though so I copied the exterior pattern and built a new one. The main purpose of it is to house the amp and Kicker Hideaway sub. I drove around with it before having it covered and the amp got pretty hot to the touch. Nowhere near shutoff temps but still warm. I decided to forego the front cubby and install a fan instead. Since I now had a 'control panel' to work with I made (3d printed) a panel that the fan mounts to as well as dual usb charging ports and a PowerPole port. The latter I have no idea if I'll use but I wanted the panel to be somewhat symmetrical and don't see a need for 4 usb charging ports. While googling other things to put in there I ran across the Big Blackie thread, saw Luke used these, and they sounded like a good choice for taking up the space. This will also hold the arduino board for the future Torque project. It mounts via front seatbelt holes. Still need to do some cable management and remove a lot of the excess but wanted to run with it awhile before I do that. Exhaust vent

The bottom one with the tan/grey housing is the fuel pump selector relay. Don't recall the colors on the other so will have to check on it later. Do you have the towing electric control package? Edit: Thanks Jim for the EVTM link. Somehow missed your post on my phone. Also, and this seems odd to me, but I think it's actually the opposite - the 84 is early enough to have the relay for the selector. Normally seems like they'd add relays rather than taking them away but I haven't really compared the wiring of an 84 vs 86 to know what all else changed.

Can you add a photo? Some of the relays are green housed. I believe both my trailer and fuel pump relay are. If you can get a photo that shows the wire colors going to the different relays that would let us identify what they are for.

Good find Steve. Never knew they could be adjusted. Just ran out and did some testing after church. Slightly different behavior than I saw yesterday and curious to see what you guys think. Builder said to use a 195 thermostat but when I sent all the details to Scott for the recurved distributor he said to use a 180 so I've only ever ran the engine with that. 4 row aluminum (Champion style) radiator. This test was inside my metal, uninsulated shop building with no fans running. Outdoor temp is 88 degrees and 60% humidity so it was pretty warm in there. Started truck. Let it run for just a couple minutes. RPM at 750-780 idle. Park (auto trans) dropped it to 650. I was taking measurements at the thermostat housing and on the fan clutch itself once the temp got up to O on the gauge. Housing/clutch/gauge/fan A/C off 170/140/O-R/off 177/145/R/off 180/155/M/off 185/159/M-A/off 194/160/A/on (stayed on until I shut the engine off) 171/156/M/on 165/148/R/on 164/149/O-R/on RPM is now at 850 A/C on max and fan on low RPM drops to 760 No change in voltmeter Gauge climbed back to R-M and stayed for a few minutes until I shut the engine off ----- Anything look alarming with those temps/numbers? My 400 in the 80 with the numerical gauges hovers between 190 and 210 (when towing).

Thanks all. I'll do some more testing this afternoon. I bought the Hayden 2799. I believe it's correct with a/c but was wondering the same yesterday.

Haven't done a good job documenting this (fortunately Dave is) but the A/C is installed and did a highway test run this evening to really check it out. This is the first Bullnose I've had with a/c so unfamiliar with what is normal and I've only put about 20 minutes in with this one. The two I grew up in did but never paid attention and they were decommissioned too long ago. The a/c at highways speeds works great. Need to put a thermometer on it but definitely got cold in the supercab. First, at idle the rpms really take a hit. Drops down to a little over 500. Normally my converted voltmeter stays dead center but a couple times when idling in park or at a stoplight it went significantly to the left. I assume this is all rpm related and alternator output at those speeds as I don't think the a/c clutch pulls much at all. Alt is a 150amp unit on a single v belt. Second, temps. Huge difference in coolant temp when the a/c is on. Prior to a/c, unless towing up a hill, the gauge stays between O-R when doing any driving at all. Idling in the shop with no air movement and 90 degree weather I've noticed in that past that when it gets to around A the fan clutch kicks in and drops it back down. With the a/c on this evening, even on the highway, it stayed pretty close to the M-A area. The fan clutch always brings it back down but is this much of a temp increase normal? When we were charging it my neighbor was getting a little concerned with how high the a/c pressure was getting before the fan clutch kicked in. Once it kicked in, everything leveled out but I don't like the idea of there being any risk at all if running the a/c at idle. Should I change something to make the fan clutch kick in sooner? It's a new one replaced during the rebuild so 1500 miles on it. The aluminum radiator came with a shroud with 2 electric fans built into it but most I've read says to stay with the mechanical fan.

On the oil fill I have a question In a post up farther the total is 10 oz. 3 oz evap coil 1 oz condenser dump dryer and measure the amount and add 1 oz. So between the pump & dryer that leaves 6 oz and yo usay your pump came with 3oz in it so that would make 3 oz in the dryer if I did the math right. Does that sound right? Thanks Dave ---- The math is sound to me. I don't want to confirm or deny it as gospel though since I had to make an O'Reilly's run and it was during that time my neighbor measured out and applied the oil. I didn't ever ask him what numbers went where. I just confirmed that the compressor booklet showed 10oz total before I walked out the door.

If I say anything at all, let me say that over the past year I have really enjoyed the videos in the playlist. The guy can probably make any topic fun to watch. They (3 options) are listed on the store page with an 'available Summer 2020 message'. This is for the Sterling 10.25. ** I have no experience or affiliation with any Banks Power products. I just liked the videos and good to see they are making one that will fit on at least some years of our trucks. Options are always good. ** I just checked and Summit has the GM cover for $400 so guessing these will be in that ballpark... I didn't say it was a 'cheap option'

Yes, on a Ford factory FS6 all 4 ports are open. Both on the compressor and manifold. I powder coated mine so handled them quite a bit. I'd give the manufacturer of your new one a call. I know the new one I got was for r134a and already had the 3oz of pag46 in it. It had all 4 ports open. Really curious on if the manufacturer has an explanation.

Since the rebuild, the starting cold problem has gone away but I still run into the same situation when hot - miss the first fire and have to crank a bit. In your 84 is it still mechanical or have you switched to electric pumps? Does yours turn fast when you have to crank it or is it sluggish?

That's what I was guessing you'd say. Hate to knock Joe's new purchase but I just wonder how they can sell these as fs6's if they don't have the same cooling ability.

Thanks Gary. The single wire approach didn't sound too appealing in this case and with the automotive sensors I am not even sure it's an option. Two wires it is. What awg do you think? Seems like a lot of projects use cat6 for this stuff so while I'd use automotive wire seems like it won't much in the way of size. The longest run would be to the gvod and if guess that at maybe 15 one way.

Looks perfect! Little stuff like that makes all the difference. Just an fyi on a similar vein but there is an ebay seller that has those window seat belt decals/stickers. So if anyone has to remove them for tinting or whatnot you can add them back after. I believe these trucks came with two different kinds so it may not be the exact same that gets removed but 'close enough'.

I think this is going to be very similar to what Gary is planning to do so. I need to reread that thread again as it's been a couple of weeks. In my 80 I have the typical set of 3 gauges screwed under the dash and really like having them. In the 86 I want that info but don't want the physical gauges. My stereo being a true android head unit can run the app Torque but without the OBDII port it doesn't help much. I've been looking for ways to go about this and still be 'invisible' - wireless sensors (expensive and battery powered), micro/megasquirt (expensive and overkill) - but nothing really fit the bill. I've kind of shied away from the arduino option for no real reason but earlier this week I stumbled across this . I may be really late to the party but was pretty excited to see this. Now it seems like Arduino is the way to go. Sadly I know next to nothing about it so will have a lot of questions. There is a good arduino forum but considering the electrical brain power on this forum combined with the knowledge of the application vehicle, I have high hopes that this project is possible. Here is what I am looking for at this time: 1. Engine coolant temp 2. Oil pressure 3. Transmission temp 4. Transmission temp 2 (GVOD) 5. Voltmeter (optional) As I said, I don't even know what all will be needed but for a starting point I'd like to nail down the long run wiring. The reason for this is that I want to install the unit in my console and would like to run the wiring now since I am getting ready to install the console to avoid pulling the seats and lifting the carpet again (ideally). The wiring won't be connected to anything yet - just zip tied out of the way on either end. Already in the console I have 8 awg power and ground going to a BlueSeas 6 fuse block. Relays can be installed as needed. This is likely not as simple of an answer as I am thinking it is but for 5 sensors how many runs and of what gauge should I install? I am thinking I can and want to use standard automotive 2 wire sensors. So does that mean 10 wires need to run back to the arduino? I was told that certain sensors could all run on the same wire and the arduino could identify them by address but I haven't found much info on that. Gary - if you have already covered this ground or someone else has here, please let me know and I'll do more reading. Right now I am a bit overwhelmed and googled out.

Does your new one have the pigtail for the connector instead of it being right at the clutch? I originally looked at the RA ones but never noticed them being different (until Bill pointed them out now) beyond the pigtail. That's interesting. Bill - what impact would the closed ports have? I know you said less power usage but what about cooling?

Have the link? I bought a new Murray (4seasons) from O'Reilly's and both ports were open like stock. Maybe yours isn't an fs6?

Correct. 10oz for the whole system. The compressor I bought came with 3oz in it. This was an FS6.

Not sure about a chart but just redid my a/c. Used 10oz pag46 and something like 3.5 cans of 134a.

Carefully being key. The tab on mine broke off really easily and had to be epoxied back on.

Interested in this also. I looked into a few options but since Camano is my daily driver, none of them really worked out. Ended up sticking with progressive but added a stated value for the truck. Sadly it made the insurance $10 higher (6mo) than my wife's 2020 Explorer