kramttocs

Just saw your edit after I posted Glad to know it's not just me!

Thanks Dane for the quick response! That's how mine is also. It's a factory harness so figured it had to be right but sure is taking me some getting used to. I keep wanting to hit the rear/left one for the drivers side since it is closest to me. Minor inconvenience I know but thinking I may repin the connector at the switch.

Got back to this finally. Silicone spray made a world of difference. The windows go up and down smooth and fast. Which is nice since I haven't installed the a/c components yet so a lot of driving with the windows down. Question for those with from the factory power windows - on the driver side switch when looking at it head on, which toggle is for which window? Left being the one closest to you when sitting in the drivers seat Right being the furthest one (closes to the speaker)

That's correct Gary - sorry I should have given a better photo of it. I would really like to have it functional in vent but will save that conversion for a later date. Dane - I read about your valve in this thread last night and I really like that idea. I wouldn't mind seeing a photo of it in the bronco as well.

Great thread. Got my valve in the other day so looking forward to hooking this up. I will be doing the max ac version for now which means I need to install the ac components soon... I think the main reason my daughter likes the truck is because we drive with the windows down but today even she asked why hot air was coming out of the vents Valve I am using:

Looking really good. I don't see any hanging wires or huge cracks in the dash so I guess you got all the wires in place without much fuss

If it wasn't for this and needing to drill the brake support under the dash mine would still be I'm the package also For a tool one likely won't use more than a handful of times, it's well worth it (esp if a gift!) Jim- had to google that tool (and learn something about a band I'd never heard of). That's a pretty slick tool also.

I haven't kept up with exactly what is being looked for here but I've ran across this product in the past. I've read some complaints based on the height of the driver as well as the practicality of it so I only bring it up because it might provide a simple platform/concept to build off of. https://www.lmctruck.com/1980-96-ford/shelf-it

Good to know it works well. It's on my list of things to look into. I can't imagine why it doesn't work either. The PO said that when a shop rebuilt the carb (not long before I bought the truck) that they did something and it didn't work after. Again, can't imagine what they did at the carb beyond messing with the 'chain' part of it. Haven't looked into it at all beyond pressing the buttons and it not holding speed. Haven't had much time to do anything this week but did have one of those super simple but worked perfectly ideas. Be warned, I am dragging this experience out... I've been needing to install the lower molding on the fenders (the little short pieces) so that I can get the wheel arch portion installed. Been putting it off as I tried when installing the running boards and sadly realized that I can't get my hand up behind there to install the nut (one retainer is push in, one is a bolt/nut). Last night I tried forever to get the little 7mm wrenching nut on there from the door jam. If you haven't tried, don't. Even with grease holding the nut to my finger there is no way to spin it on there and you end up spending most of your time with a magnet rod getting the nut back. While a ratchet would eventually tightening it up, you still have to get it started. I finally decided I had no choice but to loosen up the fender. This meant also removing part of the running board. Messing with the fender after just having it painted was pretty low on my 'want to do' list. Was getting late so was putting that job off until tonight. Laying in bed I was still trying to come up with alternatives and how to start something blind at a 90 degree angle. Then it dawned on me. Awhile back I'd picked up a DeWalt 90 degree flex shaft driver as an impulse buy. I've used it a couple of times on the truck already and while it's not a go to tool for automotive work, in the right situation it is invaluable. And this was another of those situations. Worked perfectly and was all tightened up in less than 5 minutes. It's the small things in life, right?

Very good point Bruce. Subscribed as I am interested in what you come up with on the tranny temp guage.

I've used power steering fluid in these in the past and debated doing so again on the 86. The main reason I didn't with this 'fresh' truck was to stick with the manual so I didn't have to try and remember what I used.

I use store brand Type F

Great!

Haha yep. I don't think they'd survive very long being mashed every time you want to change the volume.

I feel your pain I did the opposite - installed the drivers side duct last and it was a pain to get in there. I can imagine having to snake the thick harness through it is even less fun. Just a fun tidbit but playing around last night I found out that since the steering wheel speed controls use different resistance values over a single wire it can also be used to control a stereo head unit (at least one that can 'learn' button presses). You don't have a lot of buttons to work with and I don't know how long they'd last being used frequently but it works.

Do you have the stock pan? If you plan on keeping the truck for awhile it would be worth looking into a pan with a drain. I have the deeper TCI cast aluminum one on mine and the B&W one on a shelf for another project. I really like the TCI one. Even if you don't need the extra capacity, the drain is really nice to have.

Dane - that's how mine was as well but just with the passenger side. The passenger side switch seemed to make it 'pop' better whereas the driver side switch it took a couple back and forth's when cold to get it going. I'd definitely try a jy motor if you can find one. Night and day difference. I didn't really like the ebay ones I got anyways although the drivers side works great so I shouldn't complain too much. They are semi-universal so they have a bunch of ends that you install on the motor. The end that fit was a Z shape vs the 90 degree angle of the factory motor. It's a problem because when removing the motor since you can't remove the rod first, it's really easy to bend the rod when trying to get the motor out of the bracket. Although I guess if you are removing it then it's likely bad anyways so not a big deal... Gary - It was definitely neat that it worked. Drove out to the bike trail with the family tonight and using the steering wheel controls was pretty nice. I am not sure if I'll keep them though. The cruise didn't work when I got the truck and although I hooked everything back up, I still need to figure out where it's failing. I've never used cruise on these trucks - does it work well?

Very nice. Interesting that in one shot the gauges are white but in the close up, black

Thanks guys. I'd bought new lock motors for both doors but the passenger one was always sticky. Now that the one touch window wiring was done and time for me to install the door panel I figured it was time to solve that problem. Pulled the lock motor from the door and tested it - it worked but wasn't really snappy. Hooked up an original one from a parts truck and it was noticeably snappier. Installed it in the door and the lock is working great. Guess I just got a bad aftermarket one. Also, and I thought this was neat, I was playing around with the stereo and was thinking that steering wheel controls for volume would be another nice luxury item. After doing a quick look in the evtm I saw that the speed control buttons use different resistances over a single wire. Pulled that wire out of the speed control box and hooked it to the steering wheel control wire on the stereo. Went into the swc mapping section on the stereo (Android) and it recognized the button presses Right now I have Resume = play/pause, Set Accel to vol -, and Coast to vol +. I don't use cruise control so will try these out for awhile.

I use Valvoline Dex/Merc

Here are some measurements from the lower support off of a diesel secondary battery setup

I put the clips in before taking it to the shop but that was only because of a past experience with a sloppy installer that had the glue bulged out to where putting them in after was a pain. On the rear, if you do a CRL slider I would have the shop do it or make sure you add sealant in the corners. I say this because after installing mine myself the bottom corners dribbled a bit inside. Spoke to the glass guy and he knew exactly why - they have a little half circle piece of plastic glued onto the bottom corners that since it isn't directly part of the frame it leaves a slight gap. He pulled the bottom retaining trim, added some sealant, and no more leaks. If it is the kind with the chrome strip and you want to do it yourself you can see if your glass guy will let you borrow the tool. It wasn't terrible without it and I don't know about with it.

We talking about the FO-405? That bushing used on the various tranny and tcase linkages? If so, I cut around the lip so the retaining portion fell off and the two linkages came part. Then I cut a slit in the bushing portion and popped it off. I did burn the first one off out of frustration but never tried just heating them.

I remembered him from all of your posts, so thank you for the original legwork in getting these produced and for mentioning him here as well. You bet although no thanks needed - I just finished what someone over on FTE started I was a little worried he wouldn't get too many orders until these trucks really hit their stride so it's great seeing someone using it. He is a really nice guy.

Glad to see he is getting orders on them. I agree that they are top notch. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Source-for-HVAC-Component-Seals-Gaskets-tp41105.html