Gary Lewis

Looks like Huck! So, what's the plan?

Cool! As I said elsewhere, make SURE you get it CLEAN. I like to use copious amounts of brake cleaner and wash the inside, as well as the outside, of the block really well. And then blow it dry, including all the passages.

There's a rubber style, but it is also a two-piece seal. Fits just like the rope seal, but you have to remove the pin before using it. The block has to be machined for a one-piece seal. I'm not sure if the 351W ever had that from the factory.

I haven't loctited any of the internal fasteners. I think most of those are supposed to be torqued to spec with oil on the threads to lubricate them, and I'm not sure you would want to use that much loctite. As for advice - get it CLEAN! Get every last bit of debris out. Blow out the passages using brake cleaner and then blow them out with air.

Corvair? What's the diff between the H and the HV? Was the HV used in the 4-carb arrangement?

Looking good! Aren't you glad you had them?

Steve - Welcome. I don't think that outfit can make enough difference with upgrading the system to make it even remotely worth doing. And, by the way, even the later sequential-fire systems still use a MAP sensor, but add a MAF sensor. Bill - I read what you posted but then looked at the 1986 EVTM that some kind gentleman contributed. And, at first blush I saw that cylinders 1-4 had a common and cylinders 5-8 had another common, so it looked like it was right bank vs left bank. But, as it turns out, that is the power supply for each injector, and it makes perfect sense to supply power on a by-bank basis. What I didn't look at is the sink side, the side that goes to the ECU. So, please accept my apologies - I was wrong, again.

I think you guys have good advice. I believe I'll send the injectors out and have them rebuilt so I know they are good. Thanks for the recommendations on where to send them.

Took a bit of time to look at the OD lockout switch and the bezel today. On the '90 the switch fastens to the back of the external bezel, which then attaches to the instrument bezel - much like the fog lamp bezel on the Bullnose trucks. And the switch itself gets pushed through a hole in the instrument bezel. So, I'll have to do something like that if I want to create a bezel for the switch on Dad's truck. However, I will also look at the trucks with a switch on the end of the shift lever. Anyway, I ordered the fog lamp bezel printed in High Definition Acrylate, as shown below. Shipping is guestimated for January 30th.

Beautiful!!! I'd like to see that. Thanks for sharing, Jonathan.

Yes, I get your point about joining blocks. Thousands of them! So there will be registration issues. On a slightly different subject, I just had a thought about another use for the bulk of the fog light bezel. In the pic below you can see the bezel off of Huck for the OD lockout switch. Why not make a "Bullnose style" bezel that says OVERDRIVE, takes the later switch, and slips into the same holes in the instrument bezel as the fog light bezel does?

I really don't know about cleaning injectors, but would like to as I'll be EFI'ing Big Blue and Dad's truck and want to know if I can re-use the injectors I already have. So maybe someone else can tell us how to clean injectors? Ditto on the rails. Those I have do have some spots on the outside, but I don't think the insides are bad. Anyone know how to tell? As for the tank straps, the spacers and bolts are so you can use the original straps.

That brake caliper is way cool! I had no idea that that printing with titanium was possible. But, 53 hours is a looooong time for one part, so I can't imagine the cost. Yipes! And the cast is really neat. Luckily I've not had to wear a cast, but I've been around them and this thing is a huge transformation. But, where do the people write? We are into a completely new era of manufacturing. Additive manufacturing can make things that were impossible before, and make things less expensively than through previous processes. I don't have any links to share at this point, but I'll certainly keep my eyes open for them. Thanks!

I have a page here that tells what vacuum systems/lines that I think are necessary - on a carbureted engine. However, with the EFI system you really can't do too much w/o causing problems. And, it isn't likely that anything you do will help performance. Your EFI system is what is called a "speed density" system. What that basically means is that the computer thinks it knows what the airflow into the engine is based on the throttle position. In other words, there is no mass air flow sensor like is used on later EFI systems. Further, your system is bank-fire where cylinders 1-4 all fire at the same time and 5-8 fire at the same time instead of the later system where each cylinder's injector fires on the intake stroke. The point I'm trying to make is that your EFI system is very simple and cannot accommodate changes. So, I doubt you can do much to the vacuum lines, or anything else for that matter, without causing the system to get upset. And that is going to hurt performance rather than help since the computer will default to a limp-home mode if enough changes are made - and that will kill performance and economy.

It is interesting. Obviously not "factory", but well done nonetheless.

Jonathan - That is excellent info on painting. Thanks! Jim - I see your point about a block wall and a poured wall. But fortunately, about all that can be seen on the fog light bezel when it is installed is the top of the letters and the bead, and the face of the bezel itself. In other words, not the sides where the "stepping" is going to be obvious. And even then it is tucked up under the steering wheel such that the inspector's rear end is easily assaulted. Anyway, I'm hoping to get the 2nd pass started today.

I've done the reading on Shapeways' site and it looks like High Definition Acrylate is the way to go. Here are some snippets from that page: "High Definition Acrylate is made of a photo-reactive resin. It is printed using Direct Light Projection (DLP) technology which provides excellent resolution and accuracy. It is capable of fine details and is therefore ideal for miniatures and models trains. Additionally, the DLP process produces a smooth surface, making it well suited for painting. The material is heat resistant up to 120°C and is printed at 50 micron layer thickness." They said I need to "pay extra attention to the "embossing" section on that page". That's because "Embossed details stick out from a surface." And their minimum height and width for an embossed detail is .1mm, which is .004". According to the drawing the thinnest section of any of the letters is .007", and the minimum distance between letters is also .007". In comparison, the Strong & Flexible material I used says it has a minimum height and width for embossed details of .008". So, the HDA should work fine, but I can see why the S&A material didn't. So, I'm planning another round using HDA. Does anyone have any suggested changes for this round?

Ok, if it will set a code w/o BOO then I'll connect it. But, you said "the speed sensor input that is shared with the EEC". I was planning to take the output of the device below to the EEC, and use the module that goes in the middle of the speedo cable for the cruise. No?

Well, that was quick. May not answer all the questions, but recommends some directions and provides links for study. So, I come away with these thoughts, but want the rest of y'all to chime in with your takeways: Material: Looks like I need to read up on the guidelines for the materials and then adjust the lettering to meet them. We need to move away from a powder-based material. However, just a bit of reading on their site says "Acrylic plastic is heatproof to 48ºC / 118.4ºF degrees. Higher temperatures may significantly change material properties." On the other hand it says this about High Definition Acrylate: "The material is heat resistant up to 120°C." That's 248ºF, so I think this one would work. In addition, although HP Nylon is a powder-based material their website says "The surface is smooth, finished and semi-glossy..." So I've gone back to him asking about that material.

Ron said his printed part is the same size as his NOS one. And mine was an absolutely perfect fit in the holes in the instrument bezel, so I know it is the correct size - or at least the studs are in the right places. But I don't think the UV is an issue, so suspect we will go acrylic. And, while I was hoping to use the piece w/o painting the black part, that could easily be done. Speaking of painting, is there any way you can think to easily dip the part in a tray of silver to paint the bead evenly, and then put it down on something with the white paint to get the tops of the letters? And, this is exciting. I think it is way cool to draw something up on the computer and have it come to you in the mail. The only thing that would be better would be to have your own printer, and I'm not yet ready for that. However, Bill has one, so.......

What tank did you get. Spectra makes one that is sold by several of the vendors, like LMC. And, Spectra has a kit called LO-26D that is meant to adapt that tank to the truck. For instance, it includes: sending unit lock ring; copper tubing to extend the sending unit's pickup; spacers and bolts to retain the tank using the original straps; and wire. As for the existing lines, I'd use them as is. They connect very solidly to the tank and don't rust, so shouldn't be a problem. However, if the truck has been sitting a long time you may want to flush them. The gas should have drained back into the tank and not turned to varnish in the lines, but you never know.

I just sent this to Shapeways:

Jonathan - Could you measure the diameter of the pulley? It looks like all the sheaves are the same size - right? I'm wondering if it is E0TZ 8509-B with is 6 5/32" OD.

Glad it appears to be resolved. Hope it stays that way.

Yes, and no. I created the .stl file and Ron submitted it to one place for printing and I submitted it to Shapeways. Both companies had problems with the letters, and took different approaches to resolving the problems. Shapeways made the letters thicker, and Ron's company did something else - which resulted in crisper letters but in different places. Mine was printed via "selective laser sintering nylon powder layer by layer." But there are 59 other materials, each with their own production method, to choose from. And, each has differing tolerances for things like the letters - which they call extrusions. I'm not sure what material or process Ron's was printed with, but it is smoother and the letters much more crisp. So, I'm planning to contact Shapeways to see if they can help me figure out how to do the same.