Gary Lewis

Amen. Must be a 351W, but with all the emissions stuff, and the inspector is none the wiser.

Bill - Do the Sag's bolt into the aluminum bracket where the Ford pump bolts? In other words, is the bracket the same? I already have one good bracket, but the one from Huck is broken so it wouldn't hurt to have another in order to have a pair to sell at some point. Also, Bill, how did you mount your airbox to the fender? Could you show some pics that help me understand how to get around some minor issues I see. For instance, here's a shot of Huck's fender with the airbox bracket in place: And, here is the fender w/o the bracket, with red marker where the bracket goes: Last, here's Big Blue's fender. I'm pretty sure the hole circled in the upper right is where the bracket will go, and I think that will work as the leg of the bracket will go behind the battery. And, there's a circle below that roughly where the bottom screw goes. Further, I've put a circle about where the rear screw will need to go. But, I've drawn straight lines on a bit of a problem as that piece protrudes into the engine compartment and will hit the bracket. So, did you have to shim the bracket away from the fender? And, obviously I'll have to yet-again re-home the washer/coolant bottle.

Dad's truck had some of the tranny-cover screws missing and others not tightened down properly. And, this was from the factory as the carpet had never been out. So, water had been coming in on the right side of the cover, running down between the carpet and floor, and rusting the floor away. Which explains why you could see the ground when I pulled the carpet.

Well, "in my hands" might be an overstatement - I let it get 2' away for a bit. But, its brother should be here any day and then yours will wing its way back to you - along w/some other bits and bobs. Yes, it is an excellent resource, and unless we create the definitive how-to EFI your 460 on here, I think it is required reading for doing the job. However, it doesn't explain what the other years have in the way of PDC's, connectors, etc. And the info you provided re that also helps significantly. One reason for that is trying to tell the potential EFI'er why they need to pick "stuff" from this particular year, or years.

Good info, Bill. Need to figure out how to capture this kind of stuff. I have harnii from Huck (1990), the '95 that Jim parted out, the '96 that Ray sent me, and the '96 that Mark got in CA. So I have a bit of a progression in both PDC's and in batch/SEFI. And having some place to turn to the 'splains it with pictures would certainly help when the time comes to do the deep dive and start teasing out the wires I need and those I don't.

What years/applications had this? 460 vans? If I know what I am looking for I can keep an eye out Gary. I don't know, but probably in the vans. However, I'm going with hydroboost, so would either need to have a Sag with the extra connection or braze an extra connection onto the tin reservoir cover. That's doable, so if you find one please pick it up and I'll pay you.

Bill doesn't have the crank sensor on Darth, although he's asking Mark to watch for one there in CA. And I won't have it on Big Blue nor Dad's truck - which will also use a 460 dizzy. So the real question becomes if the 300 dizzy is like the 460's, and probably that of the other V8's. The #1 pin or arm on the reluctor is more narrow than the others, so the computer knows when it goes by and sets the engine timing from there.

That makes perfect sense. Trust me, I really need to heed that advice. As for the crank sensor, if the 300 is like the 460, that sensor is not needed. From what Bill and Adam have told me, and I've read it elsewhere many times, the distributor provides all the crank-positioning info the PCM needs. But, I don't know for sure that that is true for the 300.

Bill - I'm jealous of the Sag pump.

As of 1987 through 1989 all the F-series trucks used the same fuel pump, regardless of engine. I don't know how many psi that is, but there isn't a diff between 6 and 8. But after 1989 I don't know. (There's that need for a 1990+ catalog again.) As for the diff between SD and MAF, my understanding (I haven't done it) is that if you are going with a fairly stock engine that SD works fine. But I'm not sure I agree with the extra complexity statement. Yes, there are more pins in the connector, but you don't really need all of them as you don't need all that much more in the way of I/O. Both take the same # of O2 sensors w/o a cat - one on the six - although with a cat the MAF can use two. And there's the four or so wires to/from the MAF. Plus six wires to the injectors instead of two. But, other than that there's not much difference. And with MAF you are set for whatever changes you want to make. Another difference is in the use or not of a power distribution box/center. Bill can tell us, but somewhere between 1990 and 1995 they introduced the power center that sits on the driver's fender. I think the it is a good thing, but it does require a few changes in the electrical wiring to accommodate it. And it is the combination of power distribution center and style of EFI that can make it a bit more tedious to find the donor vehicle. In other words, up to some date the trucks will be SD but w/o PDC. Then from that date until the change to MAF they'll be SD and PDC. After that date they are MAF and PDC. I'm not trying to talk you into anything, but I am trying to get my head, and yours, around the options.

Mark - Wow!! Excellent! Bill - As for the misfire detector, why do you want it? I'm sure Adam told you what he told me - it isn't needed. But you have me worried.

Yes, I was wrong - IAC line. Hmmmm. I'm looking through various sites for the hoses.....

Bill - I wonder if I could reverse it. As said, the IAC hose will fit where the PVC hose is supposed to go. I know 'cause I checked it on Huck. So that would just leave connecting up the PVC. So, what is the "filter" in the crankcase hose? On the other hand, if I just had a 1990-on master parts catalog I could look the parts up and buy them. But, at first blush I haven't found one in DVD format, and the paper formats are ~$100.

Tell me which ones you are needing and I'll try to find out what they are.

I really do hope to use both of them. Sure would make things easy. As for Core Tuning, I'm not using them in a "local" mode - yet. And, given what Adam told me today, I don't think I'm going to have to. But, they are making all the right noises about providing support, and Bill got a lot of support from them. So I'm pretty sure I'll be happy with their support. On them being at the show, I hope so but don't have a commitment - yet. But I'm working on it. I've talked to both Adam, who is in NY, and Ben in OKC. Adam said today that he'll check, but he knows he has one commitment in September already. And Ben seemed quite interested. So, if you are interested in meeting them maybe they'll see your comment and make it happen.

We've been kicking this around in Upgrades To Big Blue For Overlanding, and I've been planning for it on my whiteboard (project) called Upgrades For Big Blue. But now seems to be the time to start a thread specific to the EFI'ing of Big Blue. So, here goes..... On Saturday I spent 30 minutes on the phone with Ben Head and today I spent about an hour on with Adam Marrer - both of Core Tuning. With their help as well as that of Bill, I think I can make this happen - both on Big Blue as well as Dad's truck, albeit later, after I learn on Big Blue. In today's call Adam convinced me that their Direct Flash package is the way to go for my needs. That will allow me to change the tuning parameters via the OBD-II cable so I won't have to have access to the PCM, which makes placement easier. And, he answered a whole bunch of my questions - although he said I'm over-thinking it. Me??? Anyway, here are some of the questions and answers: Transmission: Since I'm running a manual tranny I can use a PCM for an auto and turn the tranny off with their software BOO: He thinks it would be good to give the PCM brake on/off so it will know that the brake is or isn't applied and can adjust accordingly The 460 had a crankshaft sensor that was only for detecting mis-fires. Apparently it was mandated by the government, but isn't needed as the distributor gives #1 timing, so their software allows for it to be turned off. Which is good because I don't have that sensor. And, their package allows turning lots of other things on or off, including EGR, Evap, etc PCM: I need a PCM for Big Blue, so he asked me to send him a list of the PCM's I have. He'll look them over and see if he thinks that the one Ray sent me from a 5.0L w/a 4R70W will work if I turn the tranny code off. Adam says that my AEM wideband meter is very suspect. He has a serious setup and has measured many widebands, and his tests show the AEM to be frequently off one way or another. But, I'll need something for tuning, so for now I'll plan on using the AEM. However, he said that I shouldn't put it at the wye in the exhaust. That's because one bank will run leaner than the other and there's not much I can do about it. But, sampling at the wye confuses things, so put the bung further up on one bank or the other. With that done I turned to the air inlet plumbing. Mark found only part of the plumbing when he got the harness, and Bill said that the right plumbing is hard to find since a MAF 460 is a rare thing. But, I got lucky. Here's a shot of Huck's plumbing on top with a combo of what Mark found plus two of the hoses I got from Jim on the bottom. As you can see, they are the same length, and what Mark found was exactly what I needed. Further, the two hoses from Jim (1995 SD 460) are the same as the ones in the same position from Huck, the 1990 SD 460. So, it looks like any of the SD 460's would have the right small hoses, but you'll need the hoses and wye from a MAF 460 if you don't want to mix and match parts. And, here's the same plumbing from the bottom side. Bill - If the bung on the SD plumbing at the H is the IAC input, then that must be what is on the wye for the MAF. I think I can use the SD IAC hose even though the MAF connection is a bit further toward the air box because the hose looks like it'll stretch a bit. And, that makes the bung further up on the MAF plumbing the PCV connection, which on the SD setup went to the side of the airbox. So, since all airflow needs to go through the MAF sensor they moved it out, and I'll have to find that hose.

See what you think: Specification/Calibration Codes and the Windsor tab. And your part number is E6TZ 9B989-A and the Motorcraft # is CX-1126. But, there's another one listed that I don't understand.

Also, when we find it I'll put your calibration information on my webpage in the Windsor tab here? I wouldn't put your name on the page, but others could use it and you'd have easy access to it.

Steve - I thought this sounded familiar. But the tag should be on the engine, like on the valve cover. Anyway, if you can find it we can nail it. Otherwise we'll retrace our tracks.

Maybe. The "A" in the part # (E6AZ-9B989-C) means it is for an automobile. So your part number would start with a prefix of TZ. Having said that, it might work. However, we can probably find the exact right replacement. What we need is the Calibration #. In the pic below you can see the Calibration No. of 5-53D-R01. You should have a label, as explained here, so if you can find it I can give you the Calibration Parts List that will have the TPS number as well as several other things. But, if you can't find it then we may get lucky and spot it in the list of ~700 other codes. Note that this one is for 8 Cyl, 302 (E.F.I.) C.I.D. (5.0L) 1985 F150 - - 2/W/D—W/Hi—altitude carb. 1985 F150 - - 4/W/D-M/T 1985 U150 - - M/T So, if that describes your truck, and I can't tell from the brief signature, then we have it. If not, please tell me and I'll look.

My #2 printout is on its way!

Jim - That's quite interesting! The bead could be printed in Shining Silver and the letters in White, and the job would be done. Cool! But, I note all of the prices are in Pounds Sterling, so it is going to be a bit more expensive to start with and then more to ship. I wonder if there are similar facilities in the States? As for the color-changing material, that is different, for sure. But, it is a very slow process, as shown by the clock. In the last case it took over 6 minutes to complete the change. In any event, additive manufacturing is really expanding, and it is going to bring about many new and exciting things. I enjoy this thread, so please keep things coming.

What I found on my '82 was that the computer and its wiring was completely separate from the rest of the truck's wiring. I was able to take the computer out and remove all of its sensors and wiring w/o changing any other wiring on the truck.

Bill - The pics showing which bolts go where will certainly come in handy. And, in the pick of the Mark III CA-spec truck I think I got the wye and the big hose from Mark. Will look tomorrow.

Dave - Wow! That is a LOT of work. But, you are really going to have a great truck when you are done! Mark - Glad it went so well. I'll be things are much quieter now.