Gary Lewis

Mark - I had an '82 and if I remember correctly it had both and oil pressure sending unit, for the gauge, and an oil pressure switch, for the computer. But that's what I think you have. In fact, if you were to follow that wire back I'd bet it goes, or went, to the computer under the driver's seat. I don't have the '82 EVTM on line. In fact, I'm not sure I have one. However, I'll check tomorrow to see if I can find the schematic for the ECU that used an oil pressure switch. As for the oil pressure, that's not bad for a cold engine. Seems like it is pretty tight.

Distance between my bezels/beads is .308 - .342" depending on if you push it left or right. So, assuming the mid-point of .325" mine is apparently .140" farther right than yours. Slightly more than 1/8". And, my fog lamp bezel measures 2.375" top/bottom, so is .002" taller than yours. Pretty close.

I'm liking the detailed discussion of how you transformed Darth - especially the part about the EEC-V. On that subject, it looks like what Mark/Dyn Blin found at the salvage in the way of intake plumbing will work. In other words, I think I can use the wye he found to go from the single large hose coming from the MAF to the two smaller hoses going into the throttle body. But, I won't really know until I get the engine mounted.

Oh ye of little faith. My second run using high def acrylate passed both the automated check as well as the manual check. Yes, the letters were shown as a questionable area in the automated check, but apparently whomever looked it over thought they'd be fine as it has been released to production. Unfortunately I didn't realize that this version doesn't have the recess on the backside to take the rubber flap, but I don't think that would keep me from using it on Big Blue.

The threaded piece has a stick out of .25" and the toggle blade length is 1.15". The post with pics is in the other bezel thread: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Fog-Light-Bezel-Switch-etc-tp5111p5410.html If the arm length of the original switch is 1.15", then it can't stick out nearly the 1.25" that Ron says his does. However, I think Jonathan's measurement is w/o the knob, so we still have apples and oranges. So, maybe Jonathan can measure with the knob on, or Ron with the knob off? In any event, we are getting close!

It seems logical that the presence of an OBD-II port says it is an EEC-IV. However, I've read that some EEC-IV's came with a non-functional port, perhaps as a consequence of the changeover. I don't know if that is true or not, and have no way of proving or disproving it. Anyway, here's the blower Bill mentioned:

I think it is the electrical components and the airbox/MAF sensor, plus plumbing. But, I can't say for sure since the EEC-V with sequential and MAF came after 1989, meaning the end of my catalog.

Ron - That looks good! I don't know what the original arm measurement is, but Jonathan can tell us. Remind me what switch you have and what you had to do to it to take the knob? As for Rick's complaint, I agree that it looks "wrong". But, it is what Ford designed. However, we could easily fix Ford's mistake.

Jonathan - I can't tell you what type of injection the 1995 4.9L's had, but I can tell you that the 1996 4.9's had sequential-fire EFI with a MAF sensor and an OBD-II port. And from everything I've read that means it is an EEC-V system. So, how to tell? Check the wires going to the injectors. If it is sequential they should be, from #1 to #6: tan; white; brown/yellow; brown/light blue; tan/black; light green/orange. And it if is batch-fire I suspect they will be tan for one batch and white for the other, but I'm assuming that they used the same wire colors for a six as an 8 in batch-fire. As for what you need, the cleanest would be to get the ECU and the wiring harnesses under the hood. The engine harness, the power distribution box, and the wiring that goes into the cab. But, you don't need the in-cab wiring, although it would be good to have the OBD-II connector that should be in the middle of the dash at the bottom. And, get the air box with the MAF sensor and the associated plumbing. Then you'll have a 1996 truck that can be maintained by plugging a scanner into the OBD-II port. But, there's a learning curve. Bill's done it and I'm getting ready to do it. In fact, I talked to Core Tuning today. And, they will probably be at the show/swap meet in Sept, so you'd have a good chance to talk to them.

Interesting. Even Ford doesn't know what to call it, as both terms are in the catalog index with the same number: But, in the text pages it is a Maintenance Indicator Warning Control Assembly:

Ron - COOL! But, lots of questions: How far does the handle of your switch stick out of the fog lamp bezel? Can one of the square knobs fit on the end of the handle? How far is it between the beads, meaning from the headlight/wiper switch bead to the fog lamp bead? As for the E5TF-12B516-AA, I don't know. The 12B516 is a bracket, as shown below. But, not an E5TF, nor an AA. And you probably didn't get that # off of the bracket. So, I dunno

I don't think we are in a hurry. And, I thought of a phrase today that seems applicable: "Perfecting sealing wax". Anyone get it?

Bill - I thought Rick said that one spring pushes forward while the other spring, on the opposite arm of the linkage, pulls back. That seemed balanced to me.

No problem. But, with the bits and pieces we have we should be able to figure this out.

I don't think you have a problem. The two springs are actually balanced, with the throttle cable pushing the top of the arm forward, and the TV cable pulling the bottom of the arm back. So, assuming the two have roughly the same force, then the fore/aft forces cancel each other and there should not be any extra wear. I think I would leave it if it is properly adjusted.

Ahhh! I don't think Ron has an instrument bezel that has the holes for a fog light bezel. But, he does have a NOS fog light bezel. On the other hand, Jonathan has a factory instrument bezel with a factory fog light bezel attached. However, that fog light bezel doesn't want to come off, so he will have to measure it in situ. But, if he measures the distance between the headlight/wiper bead and the fog lamp bezel we will know pretty quickly if it is the same as mine. Me? I just have an instrument bezel that I think was drilled/cut at the factory, and a 3D-printed fog light bezel. Confused?

Go out now and start it up. With all the lights off do you see a blue glow around any of the plug wires? Or, worse yet, sparks? The ignition system can easily cause the problems you are describing. What happens is that the voltage required to jump across the plug is dependent upon the pressure in the cylinder. As you start speeding up the pressure goes up and, therefore, the voltage required goes up. And if the wires or plugs are poor the voltage will find another path to ground instead of jumping across the plug. One way around that is to run in a lower gear at the same speed. That drops the pressure in the cylinder, and might allow the engine to rev on up. But, that approach usually doesn't work for the fuel system as it still takes as much gas to do the work. So, if shifting down lets you go a bit faster before it "lays down" then it is ignition related. But, if it doesn't help then it may be fuel.

Jonathan - Do you need me to measure the slot from the back of mine? There might be some places that are easy to measure from that would help. Or, actually, you measure yours and tell me how/where you measured and I'll duplicate it.

Jim - I'm lost on what you mean about Ron's measurements. But, I do understand what you are saying about the beads/borders being close. Hmmmm.....

Did some test-fitting of a couple of switches I have, and here are some observations: These switches have 12mm shanks, which are ~.46", and they are a good fit in the dash. One switch has a handle that is 1 1/4" from the pivot point to the end of the handle, and it only stuck through the instrument bezel by ~.7". So, by the time the fog lamp bezel is installed it would only stick through 1/2", and that's not enough to look good, although you might be able to use it. It looks to me that the fog lamp bezel needs to go ~5/16" to the left from where mine is if we want the slots in the bezels to center over the handle. So, maybe my bezel isn't a factory one? I really though it is, but..... Also, I measured how much clearance there is between the studs we have on the back of fog lamp bezel and the dash: ~.06". We got lucky.

I have a really good one for Dad's truck and another that I was hoping to put in Big Blue. But, that 2nd battery sure causes a problem. And then when I install the '96 power distribution box as well as the air box, there won't be any room on the driver's side. I wonder about the passenger's side some place?

It does look rough! But, one of my 1981 brochures shows this under XLT on Page 7:

Pretty!!! Can't wait.

Let's see if this helps on the layout and sizing of the holes. And you can see my gentle chalk outline of the outside edge of my 1st bezel attempt. Top Hole: .277" diameter; .480" from the top of the opening; .993" from the bead to the left Bottom Hole: .272" diameter; .329" from bottom of the opening; 1.148" from the bead Slot: .495" wide; 1.504" long, .443" from the bead; .435" from bottom of opening

Yes, guys, this is puzzling. And I hope to get measurments of the factory holes later today, once I get my Bible class and sermon for Sunday done. But, I can say that with the 1/4" studs there is precious little movement. We (you) nailed the locations of the studs and the part fits very nicely. And, it appears to fit over the spot where the original fog lamp bezel set correctly, although that's hard to tell as the darker spot on the instrument bezel is probably from where the rubber piece touched it, and the rubber piece fits inside the recess on the rear of the fog lamp bezel, so is smaller. So, don't go drill or cut your instrument bezels just yet!