Gary Lewis

The cold air is passing through here on its way to you.

And without that hooked up to manifold vacuum the power valve is going to be wide open at all times. So the mixture will be RICH. And it may cough and spit like it has a timing issue.

There's this website that I found that has a lot of info on these trucks. And the page at Fuel Systems/Carburetors/Motorcraft 2150 has a tab called Internal Systems. And if you scroll all the way to the bottom of that you'll see a picture that says "The carb on the bottom has a power valve cover with an external fitting for connection to a manifold vacuum port."

The crankshaft sensor went to the computer, which you've now neutered. If I remember correctly you have to change the timing cover to get a proper pointer. But, I've seen ghetto pointers made by capturing a piece of wire under a bolt and bending it to point at 0 when at T "New" 2150?

Jonathan - I'm certainly no expert. But, what you are saying about a transplant makes sense given the variables in carb vs EFI engines. This is somewhat similar to the 460 where if you go with the EFI intake/plenums you'll need the EFI heads as the ports are different. And, if you do that you have to use the EFI exhaust manifolds as those ports are different. So, your suggestion of transplanting an EFI engine makes sense as then you don't have to worry about the differences.

I didn't do enough to any of my trucks today to warrant posting in their threads. However, I did get a little bit done. On Dad's truck I pressed out the u-joints from the front drive shafts, which was a minor challenge as those were the original ones and had been in there for 37 years. In order to ensure I didn't bend the yoke I used the tool I made that puts the pressure on the cross-shaft of the u-joint rather than on the cup on the top. That means all the force is transferred to the u-joint and then down into the bottom cup, so no force is put on the top cup or arm of the yoke. Press one cup out, turn it over and press the other cup out, and you are done. (Forgetting that it may take half an hour to get the first snap ring off before you can press anything. ) Then I fired up the blast cabinet as I'm doing some powder coating for a friend. But, there was this aluminum casting laying there that was begging to be cleaned. Here are a couple of "before" shots": And then a couple of "after" shots:

And today I added the Bullnose Forum Facebook page. Not quite sure how all of this should fit together, but maybe with your help we'll get there.

No, the ~17.0 is for this Winter. In the Summer, it approaches 18.0 mpg. My son's truck has a little more pep. As Jonathan remembered, my truck has 3.08 rear gears and my son's is 3.55. The gearing is actually closer than that due to the fact that I run the stock sized tires [215/75 X 15] and his has 235/75 X 15. The speedometer on his truck was calibrated to the larger tires. My truck is smoother and quieter. I believe the edge in gas mileage is attributed to both the gearing and the fact that his still is as the Ford engineers designed. Mine does do better on the highway, though. At 70 mph, mine turns 1950 RPMs and his is at ~2200 RPMs. By the way, on the same driving course, I have tested two times [1 tank each] driving w/o using the O.D. on my truck. The mileage decreased by 2 mpg [pumping loss]. I had the gearing backwards. Ok, got it - for now. As for the OD and MPG, looks like theory doesn't work well in your truck's case. By the way, you may have missed the discussion I had with Adam at Core Tuning re the inaccuracies of my AEM wideband. According to Adam it is clearly off as it showed 17:1 on yours and he says the engine would have been bucking and missing pretty badly at that point. So, maybe yours isn't as lean as we thought?

Torque peak and max efficiency usually occur at the same RPM. "Efficiency", not MPG, since lean or rich jetting can change that. But with reasonable jetting efficiency and max MPG can occur at the same point.

6 ohms is a pretty poor ground when it is found with such low current as a DVM has. How 'bout checking the voltage drop from the battery's negative post to the ground? And maybe from the battery's negative post to the ground on one of the lights that is malfunctioning. No one makes a replacement harness that I'm aware of, and if they did it would be expensive. I think you have a ground problem, so I'd look at the negative battery cable, both ends, and do it via the Voltage Drop Test procedures: Electrical/Voltage Drop Test. Also check the engine to cab ground, (Electrical/Grounds/Ground Wires/Engine-To-Firewall Ground) and all other grounds. The best way to test them is as the voltage-drop test procedure shows - under load with the DVM checking the voltage across the ground or cable.

David - Does the 17.0 MPG avg for your truck include the early days? If so, can you give us a sense of what it is doing recently? Also, give us some idea of the difference in driving yours vs your son's? As for the Aztek, I had one as a rent car once. The biggest frustration was where the break in the rear window was. But other than that it was a fine vehicle. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Will do, Nathan. By the way, you might consider coming to the Garagemahal All-Ford Truck Show & Swap Meet on September 15th this year. It'll be here in Skiatook, OK.

PM's don't get the respect they are due. I've worked with many, and they really helped my projects. Haven't spent time in Greeley, but used to recruit in Ft. Collins so know the area.

Jim - Sorry to be so late to respond. But, I do remember those pens and was fascinated! So changing the color of a print mid-print is such a cool thing. And, for this exercise would be so helpful. As for a shape-shifter, I've read some of those books and it freaks me out.

Good thinking, Bill. I'll check your EVTM. As for locating, what I was planning to do was to measure off of Huck's fender and see where it was supposed to go and mock it up there, although I'll probably have to adapt it to fit the contours of the fender. Then see if the 2nd battery will go in. If so, then the PDC should go in as the space for it will be open. (The firewall didn't move so the master cylinder is in the same spot, and there's nothing else big behind the air box but the cruise control.) That leaves the washer/coolant bottle for last, and I can probably fit it in somewhere. After all, the underhood area is the same size between all of these trucks, so somehow it'll fit on a Bullnose if it did on others. I hope.

Brandon - Glad you figured out how to post the pics. On a bigger screen than my phone, I think that is a standard 2-piece seal. But, I wouldn't bet on it. Hopefully others can say definitively. The reason I say that is because a one-piece has to have a recess to be pressed into, and I don't see a recess in your pic. But, perhaps it is there and I can't tell? On the cast-in numbers, the D4AE says the block was engineered in '74. And the fact that the new seal came into being in '83 might suggest that there could be an E3AE block. However, the change on the seal probably was done via just different machining rather than casting. As for the AA 4, I dunno. Then there's the casting date code of "5K6". Ford used a year/month/day sequence, so that means the block was cast on November 6th of X5, meaning either '75 or '85. As said, that engine either came out of an '82 or an '85, but neither would have had a block cast in November of '85 as that would be for 1986 model vehicles. So, I don't know what to tell you. But take a look at this pic for what I mean about "recess" for the seal to go into:

I agree with Jim - something weird going on. You've surely found it by now, but the grounds are shown on Page 6 here: Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM/Grounds. Anyway, Jim has you on a good detective hunt, and I'll follow along.

Welcome! Tell us where you are and something about what you do. We might be close and can lend a hand.

Thanks, Jonathan. I use FB, as you know, and use this forum. But I see them as filling different niches. To me, FB is good for "hey, look what I did", but the forum is good for that plus compiling a history of how to fix things or how to accomplish things. Anyway, if we can get reach more people then that's good.

That'll make it true.

I think I remember seeing this in one of their commercials where they touted it as A Better Idea.

Folks - We have a new author - Bill Vose. He recently supplied me with info on several things and today I got it on the website. Check it out. And, if any of you wish to contribute, just let me know. The carb info is under a tab called "Tips" and the auto tranny info is under "Identification & Adjustment". YFA 2150 4180C Transmissions:

Bill - Well, if the bracket is different that makes the decision easier - I'll need both it and the pump. And, pics would help as I do have to figure out how to put lots of things in the same space. Jonathan - If you run across it, great. But don't go too far out of your way as I do have two pumps, one of which should be good.

little high jack Gary, what is the full part numbers for the fender braches 16340. Would they be the same for all 4? If I can find 3 cheap I may get them over making 4 that match. Thanks Dave ----

Yesterday I created a Facebook page for the Garagemahal, meaning this webpage and forum. I'd love to have any and all of you like it and share it if you see fit. In fact I decided, for some odd reason, to advertise the new Facebook page. So, if you see it please click it and add to the fun. However, I don't want to use the FB page for troubleshooting nor answering questions as I really don't see Facebook as a good medium for that. Given that, I will turn people that ask questions or pose problems here. If you think that's a mistake please help me understand why.