Gary Lewis

Gary, given that the switch mounts through that hole in the dash shell and the blade of the toggle is exactly in the center... How does the slot in the 3D printed bezel match up with the mounting hole in the dash shell? i.e., when you mount the fog lamp bezel with the studs onto the instrument bezel would the toggle blade be in the center of the 3D printed slot? It seems odd to me that the slot in the instrument bezel does not match the mounting hole, but perhaps they did not want it too close to the edge of the fog lamp bezel? Jonathan - Good question! I obviously overlooked the pics you've posted about the switch. Here's the fog lamp/instrument bezel alignment - basically perfect. So, I don't know what to say.....

Jim - Amen! Ron - I will get measurements later today when I get out to the shop. But, I'm pretty sure you won't want to put the holes where the factory did. Apparently the arm to the original switch is offset to one side, and since your's isn't the same holes probably won't work.

Ron - Do you have an instrument bezel with the holes in it for the fog light bezel? I ask because I do - a factory instrument bezel, and the hole in the dash for the switch does not line up with the slot in the instrument and fog lamp bezels - as shown below. So, if you are using a factory instrument bezel with the holes already cut, I'm afraid the lever on your switch won't come through the holes. But, if you are going to cut those holes in a bezel, then you could put them where you need them. Given that, we may need to determine which way people are going to be going, instrument bezel with factory holes or holes with altered positions, before we nail down the switch decision. Or, have two different switches.

This is strange. The part number is clearly E0TZ-1020105-B1D. However, that number is not in the 1994 version of the master parts catalog. As you can see below, it is in there for E5TZ-1020105-A2D, which is red. But the E5 says it is a new/different part for 1985, and the A2D is a different color than B1D. I've found those map pockets on earlier trucks than 1985's. And we see here there's one in captivity that is a 1980 version. So, they existed. But apparently they were thought to be no longer available, so were pulled from the catalog by the final printing in 1994. So, maybe I can find it on the 1988 microfiche version on loan from Bill. Also, there's an issue with the color - B1D. According to the catalog that color was only used in the Bullnose trucks in 1983, although that code was used again starting in 1987 and was called Scarlet instead of Red.

Jonathan - I don't blame you for not cutting that beautiful bezel! But, there's gotta be a way to make stunt doubles. As for an add-on switch somewhere, I'm planning on placing some switches in the ash tray for Big Blue. Jim - I agree that gluing is a poor idea. I'm sending the file to Ron to see what his guy can do with it.

Quite a price difference - $2800 with a turbo'd diesel vs $4500 for a 351W. But, both would take a lot of work and, therefore, money to put into shape. So, pick the one you like best.

Interesting. However, I have a file in which the letters are not attached to the base if that would help.

Jonathan - Good catch. I didn't really look at the pictures, just the part number - which isn't the right one for that part. It may well be for an E4OD. I don't know, but it does look like it.

I didn't really mean that they break easily. More that they scratch or ding easily - something I would NOT want to do with good looking wheels like that. Painted steelies would be easy to repaint, and much less expensive to replace.

I do remember the story. And they, as well as the aluminum ones I have for Dad's truck, and much too nice as well as too delicate for the overlanding I want to do in Big Blue. So, while they aren't pretty, I'm happy with the black steelies that are on it. And, they are wider than stock to handle the bigger tires.

Here you go, Gary! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1978-1986-Truck-Aluminum-Wheels-F150-Bronco-Van-1979-1980-1981-1982/142660873707?epid=1256795262&hash=item2137402deb:g:KoEAAOSwa-dWp~Lo&vxp=mtr David - Those are beautiful! However, according to the catalog they weren't offered in 1982 - 86. And while in 1980 they were offered on the E, F, & U vehicles, in 1981 they weren't offered on the U's. But, in spite of what NumberDummy would say about the application mistake, I like them. Bill - I like yours also.

I believe this is saying that the block will have "6015" cast in it and that you can't use that to figure out what it is. But, just in case, here's what the catalog says for 351W's:

I don't remember for sure. It might have been from Brownie, the 1982. Or it might have been from the 1985 I parted out. I don't remember. Post a pic of the rear main location?

What would NumberDummy say?

LOL! I like that - thread creep. And, that is an interesting tip. I'll bet you miss him.

That's a decent price, and it is NOS.

I'm a big fan of those aluminum wheels. Not so much the stock hubcaps.

Yes, I suspect it turns off after X minutes. And it is pricey, so I don't think I'd buy it hoping that it'll fit with our bezel. But, it is an option to put under the dash.

You are spot-on. That thing is an odd duck. But, it looks cool!

Sounds like a good plan. But, I'm not a fan of compression tests. Do a leak-down test. On the windscreen leak, if you are looking for a temp fix you can use flowable RTV. It won't stop rust if it has already started. But if the problem is just that the sealant has cracked, this this will flow in and seal the cracks.

Good luck! My experience with vehicles that have been sitting hasn't been good.

Good points about OD's and gearing. As for the lettering, easy peasy - but we still have to find the right switch, for either fog lamps or over drives.

I sent our user "Bret" a link to this thread.

Give that man an award!

Got it. Thanks for the explanation. Tri-power 348! Boy, that brings back memories. A buddy at college had one in a '60 with a Terribleglyde. Wouldn't even think of racing my '58 Belair w/a 348 topped by Will's 4 bbl and backed by a 3-speed manual. He drove mine and I drove his, and there was no contest.