Gary Lewis

Ron - Good question. I've attached 8 pics of the Shapeways bezel. It is better looking than what the pics imply. I took them in harsh sunlight coming in at an angle, and that highlighted the roughness that exists. But, the first one is probably the most representative of what it really looks like. An observation is that the tops of the letters and the top of the bead are slightly rough, and might not look good when painted. However, I think we could improve on that significantly by making the letters slightly taller such that they are even with the top of the bead, and then using a file or maybe mounted sandpaper to smooth/flatten both the bead and the tops of the letters. I'll have to check on the drawing, but it looks like there's maybe .010" of daylight, at most, between the letters and the top of the bead now, so it won't take much. Otherwise, I'm pleased. I love that the 1/4-28 nuts go on absolutely perfectly. They aren't tight and they aren't loose. They are just perfect. But, the overall texture of the bezel could be improved. And I think using Shapeways HP Nylon would smooth things up. However, I'll need to work with Shapeways to see what needs to be done to the lettering to allow use of HP Nylon. But, I'd really love to see your comments. The good, the bad, and the ugly. Please. I'd like to get this "right", and your thoughts are needed. Are the letters "right"? Are the in the correct places? etc? I would like to see the project get finished in a grand way, so am happy to make another run or two in order to smooth things out and get them right.

As shown on that page, all 300 sixes from 1980 to 1989 used D5DZ 12A099-A, which is Motorcraft part # DT-6. However, since the prefix of "D5" means that part was created in 1975, it is likely that all 300 sixes from 1975 forward used it. And the only reason I say "to 1989" is that is the end of coverage of the catalog I have, and the "1980/" means from 1980 to the end of the catalog. In other words, all 300's from 1975 through at least 1989 should have that part on them.

Pete - I don't have the pulley you need, but here's the info on the crank pulleys for the 300 six from the parts catalog.

See if anything on here helps: Electrical/Distributors. (Just for you. )

Thanks for the clarification, Bill.

Ray is correct - in speed density EFI systems, like used on the 1985 302, the injection was bank or batch-fired, meaning that injectors 1-4 were fired at the same time, and then 5-7 were fired. And, from what I can tell, 1-4 fired each time a cylinder on the passenger's side was ready to pull in fuel, and the same for the driver's side. (You can prove this by looking at the wire color to the injectors - there's only one color for each side.) So, there will be fuel in the intake manifold for each side that could make its way into another cylinder on that side even with one injector being disconnected. No, it wouldn't be nearly as much fuel as was needed to make that cylinder run properly. In fact, all four cylinders would be running on less fuel than they were supposed to have, although the ECU would try to compensate to some extent. But, since there's only one O2 sensor for the whole engine in the speed density system there's no way for the ECU to correctly compensate, and the engine will run poorly.

Well, I'm home. As some of you know, I've been in Nicaragua for two weeks visiting our daughter, son-in-law, and grandtwins. But, as of this afternoon I'm home. And, after getting a few things squared away, I'll be getting back to trucking in a few days. Toward that end I was very pleased to open the boxes that Mark/Dyn Blin pulled from the 1996 CA-spec F250 w/a 460. What a treasure trove! Thanks, Mark. Once I get the shop straightened up a bit and get rid of a bunch of parts from Huck, I want to lay out the various harnesses, air boxes, etc that I have and figure out how to put it all together. But, with the exception of a few air inlet hoses and maybe some spare harnesses from which to extract the right wire colors with which to extend things, I think I have pretty much what is needed to put MAF/SEFI on Big Blue.

Had never heard this:

We sing one that goes: If the Devil's in the road we will stop and pick him up. But, I wasn't aware he might be in a Chevy, which raises lots of questions.

Good one!

As am I. More Lord than Ford to be precise.

I'm not sure what you mean, David. But, I did put it below the pic and below the dedication. See what you think, please: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/ And, it is very, very easy to move it, delete it, make it bigger, smaller, left or right-justified, etc. But, I just wanted to get it somewhere for discussion. Thoughts, folks?

I love it! Where can we put it here on the forum so it is more visible?

You warned me about that recently, but don't forget I had a new '69 Bee with a 383 for many years, so "enjoyed" that pain frequently. However, I had an advantage in that I wasn't on the clock, so soon learned to let it cool before starting work.

I'm not saying they ever cared. Another case in point: A family friend had a 70's Pontiac. After 20,000 miles it started running poorly and the dealership couldn't figure it out. So he brought it to Dad, who promptly did a full tune-up and discovered 7 new plugs and 1 original. The A/C compressor had to come off to get to that one, so they never bothered.

I agree that it makes a lot of sense if you want to throw things together easily. But it makes no sense if you want to be able to maintain them.

I kinda thought I knew you. Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! You have a good mix of trucks - the F150 for tooling around and the F250 for doing lots of work. So, what are your plans for them? You might want to start threads for each of them as you start working on them. That way you can keep track and we can follow along.

Your solution makes sense. Their's doesn't.

Looks like a poorly-engineered plan there, Bill. But I'm lost - if they were welded on how did you get them off?

Cool tool!

You are beyond me. I understand what you are saying if I stop and concentrate on it, and it makes sense. However, the following causes me some wonder: Isn't the speed change in my scenario of a dragging starter due to friction? Yes, it isn't the friction itself that is causing the higher current, but it is causing a slow down in RPM for the starter and, therefore, keeping the current high. Right? Ditto the poor connection, which reduces voltage and, therefore, power to the motor. And that reduces RPM. If you have enough of that then you could conceivably keep the motor in high-current mode.

Ray - Your statement of "As the motor spins, the inductance of the windings increase, reducing the current" is the key. I think we can safely assume that a starter relay/solenoid is sized correctly to handle the in-rush current to the starter, but that the designers of the solenoid assumed that the starter will spin at a certain rate, thereby reducing the current. However, if the starter doesn't spin at the assumed rate then the continuous current draw will be more than they designed for, and even contacts made with good material will weld together. So, a dragging starter would cause this problem, and a dragging starter is one where the bearings have worn to allow the armature to rub against the stator. Even a tiny rub causes heat, which makes the armature grow, which causes more friction, which causes more heat, which..... And even a poor connection can cause the problem if it keeps the starter from spinning fast enough to reduce the current substantially and, therefore, stay in the high-current mode. Does that make sense?

What kind of tools do you have for measuring camber and caster? I've always thought it takes a serious alignment shop to do that work.

Would you be willing to re-write, or completely start over, on my page re Electricity 099? Given what you've said mine is wrong. Too simplistic.

My local dealership is also fairly new, used to be Courtesy Ford in the 70s and is now an Auto Nation thing. Hmmm...... according to Bill, we stopped at 23 dealerships - way too many to remember. But I have some pictures from a place in Texas we stopped at: And there's this place near OKC as I remember - I think Gary said he's seen it but never noticed the glass: And then this place, I guess it's called Harlan Ford (now relocated in a new building a few blocks away): Chris - I think the one with the etched glass is in Ponca City, where we lived for several years. I've driven by the building many times, but never noticed the glass.