Gary Lewis

Pete - Sorry, I misunderstood. But, I've created a new page (Engine/Pulleys) that shows the pulleys that were used - although I only have the water pump pulleys so far. Unfortunately the info in that part of the catalog only tells the # of sheaves and the diameter of the pulley, so it doesn't tell you the width of each sheave. However, you could figure that out by going to the drive belt page (Engine/Drive Belts) and look up the belts used. So, I think you can get there, although not in one step.

Yes, that control as well as the one I pulled off of Huck are the old style, and since they have the right cable to interface with the throttle body, one is going on Big Blue and one on Dad's truck. That way I can use the horn pad buttons to control the cruise. But the later cruise, like the one Mark/Dyn Blin got for Bill, is electronic. As for your logic, that sounds reasonable. But, I don't know how the ECU is programmed, so don't know if it would work that way. Perhaps I'll find out when I get deeply into the EEC-V ECU via Core Tuning. In any event, I really do need a clutch switch, both for the cruise as well as for the starter interlock, so will be adding that to Big Blue. And, if needed I could then connect it to BOO.

Assuming your steering box is the original, the single biggest thing you can do for steering is probably a good steering box. I would have said to go with a Red Head box, but it has recently been suggested in a thread that Blue Top boxes may be as good or better. The reason both Red Head and Blue Top are better than a remanufactured box is that Ford used the case of the box for a bearing. And even operating under constant lubrication, the box wears. Unfortunately the remanufacturers don't do anything about that, but Red Head and Blue Top bore the box out and press a true bearing in. That makes for a much tighter steering system. Of course, you also want to check the tie rod ends and ball joints, as well as the "rag joint" in the steering shaft. All of those things wear, and if you are looking for tight steering they'll probably need replaced. In addition, there are the bushings in the front and rear suspension. Any wear in any of those and the whole thing is loose and less than precise in steering. But, if you think about buying new ones you'll quickly realize that there are two different kinds - polyurethane and rubber. Ford used rubber and it works well to both allow movement but prevent bumps and harshness from coming through. However, many people use poly bushings for replacements, and those provide a bit better precision in the steering but transmit more harshness through as they are stiffer. That's your call. And then, when all of those pieces are proven or replaced you'll need the whole thing aligned.

No need for apologies. I'm wanting all the input I can get. I'm not sure what the source is for BOO on the later trucks, but Bill's 1996 EVTM shows it as the light green wire from the brake switch. So for '96 they were just getting the signal from the same circuit our trucks have.

Jim - I don't know. What little I've found on it only says it tells the ECU to unlock the torque converter at anything less than 5% throttle. Doesn't say it drops the RPM, and I doubt it does that since it isn't drive-by-wire. The throttle is going to be open X amount, so won't it have to give fuel to match the air? And if it did drop the RPM that wouldn't mess up the idle speed.

Took me a bit to find that post, but now I understand your statement about MPG. And it does look like the new Holley is working. As for the new project, that should be a fun ride. Do you do a lot of touring?

I need to do that to Big Blue. I have all the stuff with which to do it, and I know it'll make a big difference in the noise and the cold air that comes in. But, there's just too much to do..... Anyway, enjoy the increased tightness tomorrow. Hope you get the passenger's side done next weekend.

Spent a lot of time today on the spreadsheet for the connections to the EEC-V computer on Big Blue. As you can see below, I have a column for "Use", and I sorted the file such that the connections I intend to use came to the top, and then "printed" them to show here. But, in doing so I came up with some questions: BOO: Do I really need the Brake On/Off signal? I understand that it is used on the vehicles with an auto tranny to unlock the torque converter's clutch, but on Big Blue with a ZF5, is it needed? HO2S Numbering & Use: My understanding is that #11 is the right front, #21 is the left front, and #12 is the rear - sometimes called Right Rear. Correct? Further, since the rear one is used as an efficiency monitor for the catalytic converter, which I won't have, I can turn it off in the ECU and put my wide-band HO2S there. Correct? The pinouts for all EEC-V ECU's are the same. Right?

Got several things done today: Installed the middle seatbelt buckle off Huck on Big Blue, which didn't have one. Helped a friend load up a bunch of parts off Huck so I have a bit more room in the shop Checked out how to put a filter on the HVAC system - to no avail Put away a bunch of tools

Where would be the fun in that? Actually, that might be a good way to do it. But, I'm well into this so want to keep going. It is my first 3D printing project, at least the first that I've printed, and I'd like to see it work out. Having said that, the one that I have is usable, and might find its way onto Big Blue. No, it isn't "right", but tucked up under the steering wheel it will be hard to see that it isn't.

I did some sanding using 600 on a glass plate. Didn't take too long to get down to the letters, and as you can see below they cleaned up a bit. But, as Ron points out, they aren't nearly as crisp as those on his printed version nor on his original. Here's his pic with the original and his printed version. Note the crisp lettering in both cases: Now here's my Shapeways #1 with some sanding. Note that the letters run together - although they appear to be in the correct places. I think the running-together is a result of Shapeways tweaking the lettering. So, maybe with some help from Shapeways?

Ok, I finally got to the shop for a few minutes today. And here's my first take on what we were discussing with regard to a filter in the HVAC system. I've added several pics of the underhood plenums here (HVAC/HVAC Systems). But, the learning is that there is no room available in the plenum for a filter 'tween the fresh air/recirculate door and the squirrel cage. NADA. So, I don't see a way of doing it. I'd thought about something like shown below, but since there is a ~16 degree angle on the one joint, placing a spacer there would cause an alignment problem where the A/C air passes through the firewall. And, even if that could be gotten around it looks like the filter would be below the fender hanger as well as the hood hinge. In other words, I don't think it will work.

September 15th, 2018. BE THERE! (Echoing a popular commercial for many events in the 60's.) Yes, we could certainly check things out up here. But, I hope you get it sorted long before then as I'd like to see your truck. Have you tried flooring it when it starts to labor? I ask because it is possible for the enrichment needles to get stuck in the down, or lean, position. I've never seen it, but I've heard/read that it can happen. And if that happens the engine will be quite lean as you try to accelerate, and might cause it to refuse to go. But, if you had enough air flow (RPM) then flooring the throttle could cause the secondaries to open and that will cause the mix to go rich enough to cover up the lean primaries. Just a thought. And, someone else suggested trying different gears. So, shift to a lower gear and see if that makes a difference. That reduces the cylinder pressure and could bypass an ignition problem, like bad wires, plugs, cap, rotor, etc. So, give that a try as well.

For the polisher I only have the plastic pyramids, which are much too large and aggressive, and a nut hull media with polishing compound embedded. I'm afraid the polishing compound would embed in the plastic and be impossible to wash or scrub out. I wonder about using walnut hulls from the blast cabinet? Or, glass bead?

What is notch sensitivity? Does that mean it is easily broken at a notch? Concentration of forces? There's a discussion of how the acrylate parts are made here. And one statement looks encouraging: High Definition Acrylate is made of a photo-reactive resin. It is printed using Direct Light Projection (DLP) technology which provides excellent resolution and accuracy. It is capable of fine details and is therefore ideal for miniatures and models trains. Additionally, the DLP process produces a smooth surface, making it well suited for painting. The material is heat resistant up to 120°C and is printed at 50 micron layer thickness. The color ranges from matte black to a dark grey charcoal. Further, here's a comparison of plastic materials, and the one I used was Strong & Flexible:

No, the letters are not distinct from each other. I could put spaces between the letters, but then the overall string would be too long unless I scrunch it up some. As for sanding and polishing, how 'bout I try to sand it on sandpaper held on a hard surface, and then put the whole thing in my vibrating polisher? The only issue is what media to put in the polisher. Thoughts?

Jim - It is lazer sintered nylon, so Acetone wouldn't smooth it. But, maybe the polishing or burnishing would work. I'll ask. As for the HP nylon, that's a good point about the size. So, maybe the HD Acrylate?

Jonathan - I'll contact Shapeways to see how to get a better finish. Maybe they offer finishing, via acetone or whatever, but I don't see it when looking at their site. However, I think the best solution is to go with another material instead of the "Strong & Flexible" that was used. A couple that look promising are shown below in comparison to Strong & Flexible:: Strong & Flexible: This nylon plastic is our most versatile material suggested for both functional and decorative products. HP Nylon: This nylon plastic has excellent material properties and is recommended for mechanical and functional products. High Definition Acrylate: This black acrylic plastic is suitable for intricate details and some handling. Having said that, the one I have doesn't look that bad. As said, I put it in the worst possible lighting conditions to take the pics, and when holding it in my hand in normal conditions it looks much better. However, there is one thing that I've noticed that no one has mentioned - the letters "AMP" of FOG LAMPS appear to be smaller than the rest. Does anyone else see that?

That is one NICE truck! And, for $3500 it is a buy.

Why not Chrome on a Chromebook? Might that work?

From the factory the filters are always after the fuel pump. But yours is before. I've run one before the pump for years on several trucks with no problems, but there are those that say you shouldn't do that for fear of restricting the pump. So, perhaps that is what is happening, and if you put it in the engine compartment you could put it after the pump. Maybe that will fix the problem?

What browser and operating system are you using?

You can replace all that stuff, but I don't think it will solve the problem. I say that because I don't see anything wrong with what is there. (And, by the way, the thing to the left of the pic is probably the original fuel tank selector valve.) Since it happens on either tank it is something in common with both tanks. And I can think of a few things it could be: Float Level: If the float level in the carb is low, you could be running out of fuel in the carb, but have enough flow to the carb. The Edelbrock Owner's Manual explains how to set the float level. Vent: The tanks are vented via a small line that tees and then goes to the evap canister under the battery. If that line is pinched after the tee, or if the evap canister's vent is plugged the tanks can't vent properly and you'll pull a vacuum on the tank and prevent the fuel pump from doing its job. You could test this theory by loosening the gas cap for a drive. Fuel Line: Or, it could be that the fuel line going from that valve in the picture, through the fuel filter, and on to the carb is leaking at a joint. Any looseness in a connection can allow air in and that will kill the pump's suction. As for replacing the line, yes you can use rubber hose. Get the stuff that is ethanol-rated. As for size, I'm not sure. I thought it was 3/8", but I wouldn't swear to that.

Guys - I forgot how UGLY posts via email are, and I didn't realize how long that post was. So I cleaned my previous post up quite a bit and put the pictures in the post itself. Hope that helps.

Pete - The drawing doesn’t have any voids, so the printing shouldn’t. But I guess it might have a glitch here and there. However, I’m willing to try - if we think that is the thing to do. Thoughts on that? What about the lettering? Is it correct? Anything else?