Gary Lewis

You won't go back to compression tests. I'm sure of that.

We don't consider ourselves "southerners". To me that's Alabama, Louisiana, or even Texas. But, we are certainly waaaay south of you. And the metal in our trucks lasts far longer. But, the plastic takes a beating, as does the paint.

And here's the rest of the story.

YUK! I'm sure glad I live down here.

So it is! Haven't been there, and hadn't even heard of it.

Nice cars! And, that's a nice "country home". Wow! Where/what is it?

I just noticed that you have the fairly rare locking hood release.

Nice! But, I just realized it is LHD. How fun is that over there? When we lived there some friends took their RHD car to the Continent. He said when he wanted to pass he just pulled out and let his wife see if there was anything coming.

Pennsylvania = Penn. As for material, your choice. This is the place to document things. It isn't going away.

Good pics! Cool truck. I'd forgotten what 'Ole Blighty looks like in winter. Reminds me of Florida.

Most pics exceed the 1Mb limit for no processing, so you have to click the "Big Size" button before uploading. And, forums like this one don't have the smarts to read the metadata in the pic and discover orientation. So you have have to open a pic in photo editing s/w and then save it again. The editing s/w usually corrects the orientation.

Bill - The "satin" black is more like semi-gloss. Here are some pics to try to show it, but it is hard to tell. I've left it masked in case you want me to shoot it again with something flatter. But, I've not gotten good coverage with second coats, so I'm not sure that'll work very well. Anyway, I'll hold off unmasking or sanding until you tell me what you want to do. Here it is in sunshine: And here 'tis in the shop with flash: And here it is w/o flash:

Welcome! That sounds like a really nice truck, and the pics you sent me says it has been well preserved. We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I could easily add you to it if you give me a village/town/city. (Just not an address.) Anyway, glad you found us!

Nice trucks! Are those Penn tags? I'd forgotten to ask where you are, but we do have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I could easily add you to it. As for the stories, why not start threads for each of them in Projects? And/or you can put up the pics in the Picture Gallery, although it doesn't work as well to tell stories about them as it is mainly just for lots of pics. Anyway, have at it. We will follow along. As for value to the site, I'm confident of that.

I agree! I wouldn't have expected you to agree so vociferously.

Gary, I take it to mean some kind of Cruise Control Disable Switch, but that's just me guessing. If you do a Google search on "Ford SCCDS" all it brings up are forum threads, with a user named Steve83 using the term...lol. I guess we'll have to wait for the official explanation from him. Since Ford calls cruise control "speed control", perhaps it is Speed Control C Disable Switch, with "C" TBD? I would have said "Clutch", but it is on the brake system. Perhaps "Cruise"? That makes sense!

Dave, From what I can tell, if we're talking about the later style aluminum master cylinders, the reman units seem to come with NO plastic tank. You'd have to re-use the old one. If you buy a new unit like I did, they come with the plastic tank. Staying stock is perfectly fine. For what I'm doing with my truck, I don't expect the later master cylinder to perform any better. The only reason I opted to do it was because it won't rust, and it saves me a few bucks by not having to buy a new external proportioning valve. If your proportioning valve was fine, and your lines are fine, I'd see no real reason to switch to the later master cylinder, other than it is plastic and aluminum instead of cast iron and steel, so it won't rust. (Preventing rust is always a consideration here...) In my opinion there are several advantages to the aluminum/plastic master cylinders. One is the ability to see how much brake fluid you have w/o taking the cap off. Another is a cap that seals well - unlike many of the cast iron units I've had. Yes, you can file them and get them to seal, but why when there's "a better way". And, speaking of the cap, you can actually use one of the power bleeders on the aluminum/plastic units as you can seal to the threads in the neck. Try that on the cast one. Plus, there's the much lighter weight. Every little bit helps. (Yep, I'm the guy w/a 460, dual batteries, winch, and soon-to-be big rear bumper. ) Anyway, good score at the "shopping mall", Cory. Last, who is going to write the how-to? I'd love to have an in-depth one, including an explanation of the acronyms. I learned a lot by reading along, but didn't follow it closely as I was playing with powder and parts, as well as TSB'ing. So I still have a lot to learn.

I don't know if there is a meaning for the colours on the diagram. But, it is possible that the original hoses had a colour tracer on them, so you might look for that. HOWEVER, the diagram above is not for your truck. It is for Bill/85LebaronT2's truck, which is an '86. So it doesn't really apply. I was just using it for an example. So, to answer your question, Bill said the blue thing, the choke pulloff, goes to manifold vacuum. So you can hook it up to a hose, or run a new hose, to a fitting that screws directly into the intake manifold. For instance, there may be a fitting in front of the carb that is screwed into the manifold and has several taps on it. You can use any of those. And if this doesn't make sense post up a bunch of pictures showing the engine and where each hose goes. Maybe we can find the right one.

I certainly understand about price-shopping, but on things like brakes, I always try to consider that maybe it's WORTH more. Do you regularly check Amazon or Tasca for auto parts? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CA76TU https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-ford-bronco-master-cylinder-f4tz2140e It's worth noting that this MC is for all '87-93 F150/Bronco, but not '94-96 w/cruise (front boss not drilled for the SCCDS). I haven't found a source for the Ford/MotorCraft '94-up cruise MC (F4TZ2140FA), but I think BRMC38 would work if you swapped the smaller reservoir on. Ok, I've looked this thread through and can't find it - what is an SCCDS?

I haven't seen them myself, but check out this Bronco: Picture Galleries/1984 Bronco XLT. There are several pics of the mirrors on that truck.

What would be the symptoms of having both the early proportioning valve AND a functioning RPV in use? I believe this is what I unknowingly did when I converted to hydroboost and installed the 1995 F450 master cylinder in my ‘81. I saw that post and it makes me wonder if that might be a factor in my rear brakes locking up easily? Good question. And did Jan convert the same way?

This page (Exterior/Exterior Mirrors) says: It does seem strange to have an '83 engineering/ID # and have been offered in '82. But maybe they re-engineered it the next year and replaced the E2TZ w/the E3TZ in the catalog, which happened all the time. Because the 1982 facts book (Literature/1982 Literature/1982 Light Truck Facts Book) shows electric mirrors were available in '82. And, it says "This new option...", so apparently they did start in '82.

Ok, thanks. I plan to use your content and my content brochures to spot-check the '85 one that I built the spreadsheet from. But that's gonna take time. Maybe Monday watching the football game? This thing is really taking on a life of its own. The website had 500 pages when we started this, and the TSB section could easily more than double it.

To do the repair I pulled the bracket off. This is after 2 glass coatings & paint sorry no before pictures. About the 11:00 is where I added the wire to fill the gap. Hole was at 7:00 This was the bottom when it was mounted in the truck. The mount was installed off from where it was. I only did the glass where the pin holes were. Chains after Evap-O Rust and painting. With the rubber bike tube installed. And yes I used a hole punch and added a hole in the middle of the cover. Dave ---- I think I could have sent you one of those w/o rust. But, that one shouldn't rust any more. Chains look good as well. Good progress.