Gary Lewis

I've missed something. If you have an HEI module and are looking for a Duraspark distributor, are you going to install the HEI module in the DS distributor? Because the two don't usually get wired together. So, what did I miss?

Ron - I'm dense, but I'm not sure I know what you are talking about. Is it the hex-sided piece that screws into the block on some Windsors? Can you show us a pic?

That's a cool truck. Probably originally a Canadian truck as I think only Canada got the Mercury trucks.

And, here's the results of a morning-after search for the phrase that is included on the bumper guard and tire carrier TSB, which is "Instructions for dealer installation of bumper guards and swing-away spare tire carrier on 1981 Broncos." But, note that I did not put quotes around that sentence in the search. I tried it with the quotes and our page comes up #1. In fact, it is the only one. But, no one would be searching for exactly that sentence, so that's not valid. But, it isn't likely that someone is going to search for the sentence I put in. So, what about just searching for the TSB #?

Nice looking trucks! But the Bullnose is best. Used to live in Kennett Square, so know something about York and that area.

Angelo - That's going to look good. I prefer old-school light on a headache-bar mount over the new light bars of LED's, even though the LED's pull less current and may create more light. Bill - I plan to box this stuff up tomorrow (Janey and I are running errands today) and get it off to you Thursday/Friday. And, there's a lot of the powder left so I'll include it.

Yesterday while waiting on the powder to bake in the oven I scanned in several TSB's. Then last night during the football game I added several of them to the website. But, in doing so I discovered that some of the work I'd previously done hadn't stayed "done", or I'd done it incorrectly. So I spent half of the time fixing what was wrong - and even then there may still be some glitches, so please let me know what you see that doesn't work or doesn't look right. And, in case we are shopping for TSB bulletins, meaning the stapled booklet that the individual TSB's came in roughly every other week, I created a page to track what Steve83 and I have: TSB's/TSB Bulletin List. David/1986F150Six is really good at finding things on eBay and elsewhere, so I've asked him to be on the lookout for good deals on bulletins we don't have, and I thought this page would help him know what we need. Anyway, along the way I got lost with what I added. But here's what I think I got added. And the part after the ":" is the text that people will see when these pages show up in a search, so please let me know if they are descriptive enough to entice them to click. 81-06-13 BUMPER GUARD & TIRE CARRIER: Instructions for dealer installation of bumper guards and swing-away spare tire carrier on 1981 Broncos. 83-3-15 PICKUP BOX ALIGNMENT: Ford's instructions for aligning the box to the cab on Styleside trucks. 81-06-15 PICKUP BOX WOOD FLOOR REPLACEMENT: Ford's TSB explains how to properly replace the wood floor of the Flareside beds. 83-16-17 PICKUP BOX LEAN: Instructions to eliminate pickup box, or bed, lean. 83-24-18 SWING-LOCK MIRROR MOVES: TSB to replace swing lock mirrors that do not hold their "adjusted" or "set" position. 83-24-19 MIRROR HEAD VIBRATION: TSB to replace 6" x 9" Western Swing Away mirrors with 5" x 8" mirrors to reduce vibration. 81-06-04 INTEGRAL POWER STEERING GEAR: Ford's instructions on repair of the integral power steering gear on 1980 & '81 Bullnose trucks. 81-06-16 FRONT WHEEL GREASE SEAL GASKETS: Ford's instructions for installing a new wheel grease seal kit to prevent road splash from contaminating the front wheel seals on 1980 & '81 Bullnose 4x2 trucks. 81-06-17 REAR PARKING BRAKE CABLES: TSB to replace the rear parking brake cables on 1980 & '81 F-Series and Broncos. 83-25-21 AIR CLEANER SEALING: Instructions for sealing the air cleaner on 1982-'83 Bullnose trucks operated in dusty or off-road conditions. 81-06-18 CLUTCH HOUSING FILLS W/MUD/DIRT: TSB for installation of a shield to prevent entry of mud or dirt into the bell housing on 1980 & '81 F-Series and Broncos 83-23-17 8.8" REAR AXLE VENT: Instructions for relocation of the vent on 8.8" rear axles to prevent lubricant leakage.

All I knew was that it was supposed to be about half of what the typical output voltage would be (14.5vdc). According to my 1984 FSM: Interesting to note, I kept coming across mentions of a full 12vdc choke. You can see in the chart above. It was done with battery voltage through and oil pressure switch. That would be a nice way of doing it if you were running a full 12vdc...although it would require an extra oil pressure port. One of the reasons I personally stuck with the factory 7.2vdc was that I wanted a run-only signal. I can guarantee you that I'd be that guy that left the key on at some point and baked the element...lol. Now, if I had an easy place to install and oil pressure switch....hmmm... Good find on the chokes and voltages. Interesting that Ford said 7.2V. That's awfully precise for something that surely varies significantly. Anyway, I agree with Steve. You can put a tee on the oil pressure port and put a switch on it. That's the way I have Big Blue set up, with the switch running the fuel pump relay and the other side of the tee going to the gauge.

You do your woodworking outside? And what does "set down" mean? Sold? As for the IR thermometer, I have a Chinese version. So cheap that recently the plastic trigger folded. But it was hollow and I straightened it out, put it in the vise, and filled it with hot glue. Once that set up it was better than new. But, the IR thermometer is extremely handy.

That's correct. For most AC Voltage waves, they oscillate above & below "ground" (0 Volts), so the simple mathematical "average" is 0 (not a useful number). So to produce a meaningful value, each instantaneous voltage is squared (which eliminates the negative) THEN averaged, and then the square root is calculated (which is the "Root Mean Square" formula). Most cheap DMMs are built to read AC Volts from household sources, which means they're only accurate at (or near) 60 Hz because they don't really do any calculation - they just guess, based on the assumption of 60Hz. A DMM labelled as "True RMS" (and it usually also reads Hz) is built to actually measure the frequency, and then calculate ACV correctly. So it will accurately respond to varying frequencies of ACV, like the alternator of a revving engine (or a generator ). https://supermotors.net/getfile/1077817/thumbnail/rs22172dmm.jpg This is all I have by way of metering: I don't think any of these say true RMS I wish I had some that said Fluke! I'm impressed.

Sorry, I missed this. So, what parts are you saving? And are the rest of the parts going to the salvage? What's the plan, Stan?

The computer has to be neutered, if not removed. If you have a computer it controls the ignition timing, and it will get its knickers in a twist when you remove ANYTHING and kill the timing advance. So the dizzy has to be replaced with a DS-II or HEI, although Ron/reamer tells you why you might want to go w/a DS-II. If you pull the computer you have nothing to control the EGR, nor the TAB and TAD relays, nor ........ So everything Ron showed might as well come off/out.

Bill - What came with them was Reflective Chrome. Did I use it on the wrong things? Did you want the valve cover in it? Jim - It was a bit tedious, but I was pleased with the way things turned out. Got me going after my "rest" will the grandtwins were here, so now I'm ready to plunge in on Dad's truck. Angelo - Where are the KC's going? And which ones did you get? I'm thinking I need something on Big Blue to reach out a ways farther/wider than the stock headlights, but want to stay with something seems "period correct". So I'm always watching to see what others do.

Dave - Why don't you tell us how you feel? Seriously though, you are making progress, and as Jim is wont to say, "progress is good".

Oops, I missed that. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map), but I don't see anyone in east central PA. However, not nearly everyone is on the map. So, perhaps someone will respond that is.

You are welcome. We strive to be "gentlemen" and treat everyone politely.

When I bought Rusty, an '81 F150 w/a built 351M, it had an Edelbrock intake and a Holley 4160. It ran like a bandit at WOT, but didn't idle well and stumbled a bit when coming off idle. I had an Edelbrock 1406, which is also a 600 CFM carb, sitting on the shelf so I installed it. That cured the idle and off-idle issues, but cut back a bit on the WOT acceleration. I'm not saying that the Edelbrock is better than a Holley, but those were out-of-the box carbs and one was tuned nicely for the application and one wasn't. Given that, you may need to dial the Holley in to get it to run "right". But the Edelbrock intake is a good one, and the Holley can be tuned to fit about any application.

William - I agree w/Jim/ArdWrknTrk in that you aren't being difficult. You are researching the situation properly before making a decision. And, whatever your decision we are here to help you.

Ray - Tell me more? I'm not remembering.

You guys would be surprised what some early Broncos go for when "upgraded" with serious equipment, like this one. So, I've added this one to my "research list" in eBay.

I'm glad you found that guy. But, I also think a 1985.5 harness would work as well since there were changes mid-year that carried over into 1986. So, don't dismiss an '85 if you find one. But, you aren't just looking for an engine harness are you? If the rats ate everything 6" past the firewall that would include the main harness since it runs almost from headlight to headlight through the cab.

SCBill - Looks like you had a good day. And, I had a good day as well because I got my project done. First, a shot of what Eastwood's Reflective Chrome looks like: But, then I had a "realization" when I started sanding on a certain Chizzler's valve cover. And, that realization was that it is best to sand lettering and ribs flat before you do the base powder coat. Otherwise you'll find that the factory didn't waste any time making the letters flat and you'll have a LOT of sanding to do - all the while making sure you don't hit your new powder. This is after a lot of sanding, as witnessed by the aluminum running down the valve cover. But, sometimes you get lucky. Here's what a coat of satin clear looks like before it is cured in the oven. (I heated the cover in the oven at 200 degrees for 30 minutes and then laid the powder down on it since it is hard to get electrostatic attraction through the base coat of powder. But uncured powder sticks to hot surfaces.) And then, after curing it here's what the satin looks like:

This may not be a popular opinion, but I'd bet that a one-wire system will be equally reliable and powerful as using a DS-II. Further, I'll bet that either a one-wire or DS-II will be easier to maintain, long term, for you than the stock system. My reasoning for the latter is that the stock system has a number of components, wiring, and vacuum hoses to make it work. And, every bit of it is required to make it work properly. And every bit of it is over 30 years old. But, and this is a big "but", installing a one-wire system or DS-II system will require significant change as the distributor has to be changed and some wiring must be changed. And then, if you do just that, you'll have a fair amount of unused components and wiring left on the truck, which you can either leave or remove at your discretion. We can work you through any of the options and, as you can see, are happy to cuss and discuss them in print. And each of us have our own opinions on which is best. But what we don't know is your level of comfort with making changes, or your ability to do electrical wiring, pull and replace distributors, etc. So, maybe we should here (see?) from you what your level of comfort is. What questions and concerns you have. How good/experienced are you as a mechanic or electrical wirer?

I'm running my Holley choke from the factory stator source. I didn't check it with my meter, but I understood it to be half of the ALT output voltage, so it *should be in the area of 7.25vdc? I know a 12vdc source is recommended, but there are a lot of Ford/Holley people that have used the factory stator source without issue. I read a thread on one of those hotrod forums where the guys tested/compared the two different voltage sources, and they claimed that the difference in time was negligible. Now, I know that's an anecdotal internet claim...but still, a lot of people do run them that way. I ran the Edelbrock on Rusty that way. It worked fine, but it was a bit touchy to set the choke as it didn't come off as quickly as it would have on 12v. But, it worked, and would be fine for at least testing, so that's what I'd do right now. What the actual voltage of the stator connection is escapes me. I tend to remember that the stator connection on a Ford alternator is a half-wave rectified output from one of the three windings. If so, then the voltage is actually half of a sine wave and will look something like this, although if it is 1/3 of the windings the blips will be further apart: The peaks will probably be something like 15 or 16 volts, and what a voltmeter will show you is an average of the voltage. And each DVM can have a different way to "average", so the results can vary. But the result is that you are getting something like 1/2 of the energy into the heating coil of the choke than you would with 12v. So it heats up more slowly and never gets as hot. But if you adjust the choke to accommodate that it will work - just not as cleanly as if it had 12v.

Wow! Lots of work for me. But, I'm loving it. Thanks. I'm going to be powder coating today, so will have some time while the parts are in the oven. I doubt I'll get all that done then, but I'll get it done - probably during tonight's football game. As for which ones I'd like, I really haven't looked. So just keep them coming. I have a folder for "Unprocessed TSB's" and then the "Processed TSB's" and will just keep adding what you sent to the unprocessed and will work them when I can.