Gary Lewis

Ok, I'm confused. (But what else is new?) I was remembering when you said something about having scanned things w/o merging two pages into a single document. But I went back and looked at what you said and that was about calibration information, not TSB's. Right? So, did you previously tell me that the e-brake TSB was to refer to 98-5A-35? If so, I've missed that somehow. Also, do you have 98-5A-35 in a pdf so I can add it? If so I'll put some verbiage at the top of the 81-6-17 page to refer the reader to it.

Welcome! Glad you've quit creeping. On the EFI head and compression ratio, you might want to read this thread: 300 Six Compression Ratio, Intakes, Heads, etc. And particularly, don't miss this post. From what I've read it seems like the bottom line is that you can increase the MPG on the 300 with the right single barrel Carter YF or YFA carb, good distributor advance curve, and an overdrive transmission. But, increasing power usually doesn't improve MPG - with the exceptions of raising compression ratio and/or going EFI. Anyway, glad you are here.

Good afternoon, everyone! I normally stay in the back ground [reading and learning] except for offering items, often NOS, which I find and share with fellow forum members. I now feel the need to share my thoughts for the health of OUR forum. We are a family and one which is rapidly growing. As such, we need to work to get to know each other and realize we all have talents and different personalities. Personalities can sometimes cause friction. I sense that this is happening within this thread and appeal to all to try our best to assist each other in a way that is most helpful and encouraging. All of us have value and we do not want to lose any. Hystrymkrs, I ask you to reconsider leaving the forum. From reading your posts, I know you are educated and write well and are willing to investigate, work and help others in the future. Perhaps I can assist with your current project in that I have a 1986 with 4.9L engine which has been modified regarding ignition. There are other options than have yet been discussed. Please let me know if you are interested. I hope all of you have a good rest of the day and I want to thank each of you for your valuable input and willingness to share. Gary, forgive me if I have overstepped in what I have posted. David/1986F150Six - You weren't off base in any way. We are a family, albeit a rapidly growing one. In fact, we're at 307 members as of today, which is both good and bad. It is good in that we have more experience to help solve problems and people with which to share our achievements. It is bad in that the larger we are the more difficult it is to know each other. And we do need to get to know each other as we all have personalities, experiences, and ways of saying things that are specific to us. Frankly, there have been times that people have said things in a way that miffed me. But, after cooling down and re-reading the comment I've usually realized that they are right and I'm wrong, or that I misunderstood what was being said. I've known Ron/reamer for several years, from way back on FTE. While we've not met we've communicated back and forth and we've even developed things together, like the dash patch. So I'm confident that he didn't mean that William is cheap. In fact, he was probably referring to his own debacle with non-Ford parts. Given that, I expect that this is a misunderstanding of what was meant with particular words and emoticons. And I, too, hope that William will reconsider. But whatever happens, we all need to be cognizant of how things might be taken, in spite of how they were meant - myself included.

I started to say that Hook-It® is cool stuff, but with Capsaicin in it maybe it isn't "cool". Anyway, that should do it.

And we are the better for it. Looking forward to your writeups on the trucks, your lights, etc.

Welcome, Don! I hope you don't mind me telling the others, but Don and I've conversed in the background and he lives ~45 minutes from me in Claremore. So I hope to get to meet him and hope he'll come to the show this fall. And, speaking of that, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map) and I'll be happy to put you one if you want. As for the brake proportioning valve, you'll probably want to start a new thread in the main section to ask for help on that as more people frequent that section than here. Or, you may want to start a "build thread" on your truck and include that discussion in that. No set rules, so it is your choice.

Seems like a good approach to get a tank down, and one to remember. As for the hose, I'm at a loss to explain the holes as well as how the truck ran with them. I once had a small vacuum leak via a bad connection between the hose and the switching valve, and the truck would die after running a while. So I cannot imagine how it could run at all with those holes. The only thing I can think of is if those holes match up with some piece of metal and the metal, after cutting the holes, sealed the hose. And that is a far-fetch idea. But I don't see any problem of running the hose through something like a heater hose. However, why not the plastic convolute? It might be easier to get over the hose, and rodents don't seem to like eating it. Further, it might handle abrasion better than more hose.

I've not seen many of those tachs, so they are rare as far as I know. But others, like Jonathan, who deal with the diesels more may know better than I.

First, I didn't spot the clear turn signals. But, that fits with it being an '80. And I see the lever on the first one, but it is hard to see on the second one. Anyway, thanks for the examples. I'd often wondered how that worked.

Interesting. From what I remember, and I could be wrong, the only differences between that cluster and a gas cluster is that the tach is for a diesel and the "Diesel Fuel Only" printed on the cluster. Is that correct?

Please don't withdraw the question. And certainly don't go elsewhere. I don't think Ron/reamer was being as derogatory as you seem to think. I know him and that's not his style. I think it is a situation pretty much as you said - "amazing how people read so much into" and I'll finish with "the printed word".

My '83 300ci originally had one, and all the documentation I've seen shows it for all engines. I wouldn't recommend using the coil power to run the choke as that comes through the ballast resistor, circled below, when the key is in Run. So the coil isn't getting 12v, usually more like 7 volts, and by running the choke on there you'd be getting even less voltage as with more current you'd have more voltage drop - which would reduce the spark voltage. In fact, it might be less voltage than using the stator for the choke. That's why I recommend using the white/light blue wire going to the ignition module as it comes off ahead of the resistor and would have full battery voltage in Run. As for the condensor/capacitor, I've also circled the "All Except 4.9L" that shows in all the EVTM's I have. This one is from the '86 EVTM on Page 26 for Duraspark, but I've also checked the '81 and '85 that I have on the site.

Apply silicone dielectric/brake grease to the threads to seal them. But it's moot with reverse-bleeding since the bleed screws aren't opened. Once when I was re-building the entire braking system I used PTFE tape on the bleeder screws and that worked very well. But if you aren't rebuilding you can't very well pull the bleeder screws, so some type of heavy paste/grease would probably work, like the dielectric or brake grease - applied w/a Q-Tip. Or, maybe PTFE paste. So, I like that idea. As for the reverse bleeding approach, I'll have to try that.

The capacitor would have a red wire with light green dashes or stripes, and the light green could be taken for yellow. And, it would have 12v on it with the key on. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/start--ignition.html But, it shouldn't really have 12v when the engine is running as it should be toggling between ~7v and 12v as the ignition fires. Anyway, you don't actually have to have it. If you don't have ignition noise in the radio don't worry about it. And note that the 4.9L didn't even get one.

Oops! I forgot. I was supposed to merge those two pages. Thanks for reminding me. Maybe I can fix it, and add some more, tomorrow.

I have one of those motive power bleeders or whatever they're called (with the cap adapter for European cars...in my case, Volkswagens) and I was never able to get the thing to work properly. It's in the box on the shelf in my garage collecting dust. Most of the time I use a power bleeder that I made years ago using an SMC vacuum ejector on a glass jar. It takes compressed air to run, but offers constant hands free adjustable vacuum. I usually stick in on a bleeder screw, turn the vacuum on, and then go and slowly pour the fluid in the reservoir. Once the bubbles stop coming out of the bleeder screw, I close the screw. If I pull the tube off the bleeder with the vacuum still on, I don't even get a single drip to wipe up. I use it for other jobs too, but I made the thing originally for doing motorcycle brakes so I could bleed both front calipers at the same time. I have a Mityvac with the accessories for bleeding brakes. But the threads of the bleeder screw leak such that you are never sure if the bubbles are from the threads or from the system. So I don't like using it. My plan is to get one of the HF brake bleeder kits to use on the plastic reservoir of the later MC.

Amazing how there's always a need for the parts.

Apparently yours hits the suspension if you try to back it out? What about jacking the truck up, and placing it on jackstands of course. Or, pull the bolts on the driver's side engine mount and jack the engine up a bit?

I doubt it will bring $6k, but it really is nice. I'd guess it'll probably sell for closer to $5k. And it might be a 351C. However, that's problematic. The engine supports would need to have been changed out or aftermarket mounts used. But, it could have been done.

Yipes!

SCBill - Interesting approach. I like it! On the valve cover, thanks. I hope we see it mounted in a pic soon. And, then not too long after that see the other valve covers, upper and lower plenums, and 3 dozen fasteners mounted as well. VABill - Ok, I'll keep the powder. Thanks. As for pay, I thought we agreed this is payment-in-kind. I'm gonna needs lots of support on Big Blue's EFI system, and you're the man.

I tend to think about how difficult it is going to be to replace things, and an ignition module would be on a high-priority to replace if you were out and about. And, while you can buy and HEI module at a parts store, he easy will it be to replace it in a custom housing? On the other hand, DS-II modules are available at any parts store or salvage.

Dunno. But let us know if you find out. Shorties for a Bullnose truck should fit as, from my understanding, "shorties" are supposed to be a direct replacement for exhaust manifolds. So, if a truck takes the same exhausts as a Mustang then they should fit. But, there were several decades of Mustangs, so surely there are different exhaust manifolds for them over time.

Ahhh! That's what I missed - a lot of wiring and fabrication. That will work, and someone on here (Steve83?) recently posted a pic of mounting the HEI module in a gutted DS-II case. But, I'd ask the question "why"? Why not just use a DS-II module? They are available at 'most any parts store should yours quite. And for the most part, spark is spark.