Gary Lewis

Something like described in this thread: Converting 87-96 F trucks to Bullnoses? This is one of the advantages to a forum over FB - you can easily search it and find what you are looking for. And, if that's not good enough, if someone wanted to they could write up a how-to and we could put it as a page on the website.

In case you don't find it: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/897843

Ok, let's not then.

Is that supposed to represent 1 TSB? Because the 2nd name doesn't look like it has anything to do with the 1st. The real problem I see is that some TSBs have several text names (usually because they fall into several categories). For example: a TSB about a transmission shudder would have a drivetrain name, and an NVH name. I'm not sure I follow your explanation of why you have to choose, but as we've established: I know nothing about building web pages & sites. Based on my LACK of that knowledge: I'd suggest using the "name" of the TSB as the visible text for the non-visible URL that would be the number only, sort of like this: Vacuum Cruise Troubleshooting Nothing that you see in the visible text of that link is in the URL behind the link (which isn't the TSB number either in this case, but you get the idea). But the advantage to including the TSB number in the visible title is that: anyone Googling that TSB would find your list, attracting new members. Maybe; maybe not. But it's still a good standard (used everywhere) with meaning (not arbitrary, other than the last number) so I think it's a good way to keep track of them. But my suggestion is: wherever you use a TSB number (even in an URL or other non-visible places), use 2 digits in every group, i.e., "83-03-15" vs. "83-3-15". BTW I've read back over your Jan 1 4:36 post (at the top of this page) a few times, and it struck me that those rules must only apply to files on Google Drive - not generally across the web. So I'd think you'd need to find out how to attract Google's bots/spiders/whatever to index THIS site so your pages show up in general (non-GarageMahal users') Google searches. But again: I don't really know what I'm talking about, so I could be way off-base there. Steve - Good comments, as usual. First though, the "83-3-15 Pickup Box Alignment" and "Tool Box Mount" are two different TSB's. The "83-3-15" was done recently and "Tool Box" was done earlier. And apparently I slept in between. But I like your idea of always leading with the TSB #. And, as you said, many of them have two descriptions in their, so using the # will at least let someone ID it. However, I don't have to choose. I just want to choose, to standardize. And, since we are going to be adding hundreds more TSB's I want to think through it now and get it "right". As for the URL, I don't have a choice on that. Weebly, where the site is hosted, uses the title of the page for the URL, but substitutes a "-" for a space, etc. But, you are right that having the TSB # in the title will help people find it in a search. Now to the rules. I think those rules are Google's rules and I believe they apply to wherever files are stored, Google, OneDrive, DropBox, etc. To this point none of my pdf's or spreadsheets appear to have been "found", and I believe that is because all of them are only available to people with the link. And since Google won't present search results to you if you aren't authorized to see them, they won't present them to anyone because they have no way of knowing if you have the link. And I do actively manage the site through Google Search Console. Google will ultimately find anything on the web. But if you want Google to search your site frequently you submit a "site map", which I've done. And, when I add a page I tell Google to index it specifically - which I did recently with the TSB Index page, and it still can't be found via a search. For instance, here's the latest info on "impressions" which are when one of our pages is presented to someone who was searching, and on "clicks", which is when the searcher clicks on our page. I view these results daily watching for trends, which pages are being "found", where we place on the results page, etc. Anyway, we probably won't settle the debate on where documents should be stored for another few days or weeks when we see Google "find" the TSB index or finally give up. Meanwhile I'm adding key words to the pages to tell Google that good information resides therein. Hopefully with those, even if Google never indexes the documents, people will be able to find it.

Darla? That's an unusual name, but I'm sure there's a story there as well. On the engine, I'd do a leak-down test instead of a compression test. This Mobil Oil page explains what it is and why it is better. But I'll explain it in different terms. A few years ago I had a 351W that ran horribly. At a stop sign you wanted to shift to neutral or it felt like the mirrors were going to shake off. I ran a compression test on it and it passed, with all cylinders within the recommended pressure range and with little difference between them. But someone suggested a leak-down test, so I built the apparatus, which isn't that complex. And the test with that determined that I had 3 cylinders with burned valves - and they were adjacent in the firing order! So I'm sold. I never run a compression check any more as I don't find them helpful.

Yes, I see it. Good job!

Someone could buy that, swap the gear-splitter out to his truck and his parts into this one, and sell if for about the same price.

I came across this for sale ad during my usual Ford junk searches, and I remembered that you guys were discussing the center openings in the Ford center caps. Kinda gives a visual of the openings. https://www.kijiji.ca/v-auto-body-parts/cambridge/87-to-96-f150-bronco-center-caps/1358114169?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true Seems like there's a bunch of them popping up for sale lately....in Canada at least. People are bored and cleaning out their garages I suppose... This looks like a pretty clean set for $40 CDN (about $30 USD): https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/oakville-halton-region/1980-96-f150-and-bronco-center-caps/1407015813?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true And a dirty set for $25 bucks... https://www.kijiji.ca/v-other-auto-parts-and-accessories/mississauga-peel-region/ford-bronco-centre-caps/1407237877?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true That's a lot of center caps to all pop up in the last couple days;). Wow! That's a LOT of center caps!

Looks like you have the project well mapped out. And the parts should be there late next week or the week after. I have the fasteners masked and ready, so just have to mask the Chizzler valve cover and then I can PC that lot. Then sand and clear-coat it, and PC the konvertible parts. By the way, do you want the konvertible parts clear-coated? If I'm doing the valve cover I could.

Cool! Glad we connected the catalog with the real thing. I'll add that info to my version of the catalog, as well as the Interchange page. Thanks.

Yep. And it looks like a Bullnose on the outside. But under the hood and the dash don't quite look like what Ford shipped out those year. I think they'll look very nice on there. How close are you to getting the engine ready for them?

You are right - WOW! There's a remote chance that this is one of the CA-spec 460 trucks w/ EEC-V, MAF, SEFI, OBD-II, etc. But, not likely.

Disclaimer - Not My Truck. (But, at least it is sorta a Bullnose. )

Ok, time for an update and a plea for help. Spreadsheet: The TSB index spreadsheet is "done", meaning that there are about 800 entries in it that represent the bulk of the TSB's that apply to the Bullnose trucks. However, it'll never be truly done as we will be scanning in lots and lots of TSB's over the next several months (years?). And each time we get a "new" TSB then I have to create a link from the spreadsheet to it. Organization: There are now sub-headings in the website menu that match the 9 different categories into which Ford lumps the TSB's - as seen in the spreadsheet. TSB's: We currently have 26 TSB's sorted into those categories and linked to from the spreadsheet. Doesn't seem like many when you realize there really are probably about 1000. But, we needed the infrastructure into which the "new" TSB's will be sorted/added/linked, and I think we are "there" - for the most part. TSB Names: Here's where I need the HELP!. We currently have two different naming methods. Here are examples of them: 83-3-15 Pickup Box Alignment Tool Box Mount So we need to figure out which of those we want to use - before we go any further. Why you might ask? Because the name I give the TSB becomes part of the URL. So any change will also have to be changed in the index spreadsheet. Further, unless I do a re-direct in Weebly then any links people have saved to the old URL are no longer any good and will return a 404 error. In reality it doesn't matter too much. But the TSB # really doesn't do anyone any good - unless they are searching for that specific TSB #. However, I can get around that by placing the # in the keywords part of the page, as well as in the header, so it can be found that way. And, speaking of finding things in a search, we still can't find that one page that I made "public". But, our 4 weeks aren't up yet, so there's still time. And, using the keywords on each web page I can help Google find the page, if not really the document. But, if they come to the page then they'll see the document. Anyway, my preference is to take out the TSB #, but maybe I'm missing something?

Welcome aboard Angelo! What an age swing we have on here! I'm soon to be 47, and bought my first Bullnose in 1993...and hard to believe even then that truck was 13 years old and had been mostly rebuilt by that time...lol. And here were are all these years later. I like all of 'em...the shiny showroom examples, and the rusty beaters! Good point, Cory. I'm 71 and I'm not the "old man" on here. (But, percentage wise, I'm only 1+% shy of him.)

Good to know. So, it is these things?

Angelo - WELCOME! I'm glad you joined! And, that interchange idea was an excellent one. But it has taken a life of its own and I'm working on powder coating parts for several trucks (and a car) in my shop so don't have the time at the moment take all of the ideas from suggestion to the web page. So I need to use that thread to capture the thoughts as they come in, with the lick and promise that I'll get back to them and immortalize them on the page soon. It does sound like you know your way around Ford trucks. And while the name of the forum is Bullnose, we do allow members here to create threads about their other vehicles, so feel free to do so as well. (One guy on here has a Dodge car and a Chevy truck, but I won't mention his name. ) Again, WELCOME!

Several things. First, a bad regulator can kill an alternator, which can kill a regulator. So you need to check the alternator. In Steve's info there are instructions on how to test the alternator by giving it full "field". If it works that way then either the new regulator is bad or you have a wiring problem. As for a voltage, with the engine running and no draw it should be at about 14.4 volts. But that is for a well-charged battery, so something a bit less but still around 14.0 volts would be expected if you've just started it. However, anything higher than 12.8 volts says the alternator is working as that is the voltage for a fully-charged battery that isn't on charge, so higher than that means it is getting charged somehow. And don't forget that a 1G alternator doesn't put out much current at idle. So if the battery isn't fully charged and the engine is idling the voltage may be down around 13 volts. Now, for the choke. It is on in the first video and the engine is seemingly happy. That means that the fuel/air mix is pretty lean and the choke is making up for it. But perhaps things will be fine when the engine gets warm. We shall see. But, when you blip the throttle the choke is opening some, which is leaning out the mix. And an engine doesn't want to accelerate when lean. But, when you slowly increase the throttle it probably doesn't bump the choke open, so it will accelerate. Given that, I'd not worry about it until you get further into the project. With the choke wire hooked up as the engine (choke actually) warms up the choke will come off and then you can adjust the idle mix. But while the choke is on you can't adjust the mix. As for the timing, I don't think it is that sensitive. For the moment I wouldn't worry about getting it exactly right as you can't when it isn't being driven.

I see a spreadsheet in the near future. Probably not, as I going to use this thread to track the interchange suggestions and additions. However, if you want to see a SPREADSHEET go here: TSB's/TSB Index and to to the tab on the right - TSB Index Spreadsheet. It is a "living document" that will capture and provide links to all of the TSB's we find. Right now it has ~800 TSB entries and links to 17 of them, but it will grow as this list doesn't show the late '79 and 1980 TSB's. However, I do have those TSB's and will enter them. Further, there are numerous later TSB's that apply to our trucks, and the list I used as the impetus for this spreadsheet from stopped in mid-'85. So, with the ~300 TSB's I currently have on paper, and the several hundred Steve83 has on paper, as we scan them and create pages for them I'll add links to the spreadsheet and we will have a fairly decent collection of the TSB's.

Dave - I may have better than that, the Ford interchange books. And, truthfully, I hadn't thought about using them for this. But, from what I've seen of them they are "direct interchange", meaning that the part superseded an earlier part. However, I think what we are doing with this page is to show what can be used in place of another. For instance, I doubt the interchange book would say that later wing windows will work on a Bullnose. But we know that if you also change out the main window they will work. But, perhaps I need to peruse Ford's interchange manual a bit more.

Mark/Dyn Blin asked me to post this Marti report for him:

Morning! You can hit the "Quote" button to the left, above. In this case that gave me your statements, preceded by a "quote author="Ferdinand"" and followed by a "/quote", but of which are surrounded by "" symbols. (If I put those on you wouldn't see the things I put in quotes.) Those put the "Ferdinand wrote" statements and the side bars on. So I just copied the "quote author="Ferdinand"" and the "/quote" tags, including the "", and put them ahead of and behind each separate statement so I could answer each one individually instead of all of them collectively. I hope so!

I was able to solve all the issues you mentioned when I put the '95 4.9L into my '83 Bronco without much time, cost, or effort. That's your decision - I'm just throwing out some ideas for you to put into that collection; but what actually goes in is up to you. '87 was the first year for the support hook. Visors up to '96/7 can be made to fit older trucks, but on SOME bullnoses (IDK exactly which, but certainly the '82 Bronco tub I used for a few decades), there's a protruding piece of sheet metal inside the visor mount (pivot) hole that interferes with the spring & wiring for the '94-up RPO dual visors. To fit them, that metal must be cut or bent out of the way. I didn't want to distort the roof, so I cut it with a hole saw. It was nasty because it's a lip, so the saw kept grabbing & ripping the metal. Inside Windshield Trim: ...the '92-up UPPER TRIM PIECE is notched for RV mirror wiring... It's been several years (OK, a couple of decades) since I did that swap, but IIRC, I just stuck some '87-91 A-pillar covers in when I got tired of fighting those clips. I used an '87-91 upper W/S trim for a while (3 screws, no RV mirror notch), but later I switched to '92-96 (4 screws, notched). I don't think '92-96/7 A-pillar covers fit older trucks/dashes, but I'll try to remember to check next time I'm rummaging thru the junkpile. https://supermotors.net/getfile/141235/thumbnail/r-door-to-dash.jpg As I was looking at that pic to check the caption for notes about the A-pillar, I noticed another interchange (and then thought of some more, and got carried away, but I'll let you figure out the formatting): '87-91 passenger dash registers fit all positions of '80-86 dashes. They're cosmetically different (2 spots of white paint, some knurling, and more slats) and molded slightly stronger so they don't flop around as easily - they tend to stay put where you aim them. '87-91 lower A-pillar trim (with matching hood pull & cable) fits '80-86 trucks. Most '80-96/7 seat belts interchange if they mount in the same places and have the same covers; except '87-91 front shoulder belts with door jamb button do not fit trucks without that button. Colors vary slightly by year range. https://supermotors.net/getfile/80835/thumbnail/seat-belts.jpg The '86 molded plastic glove box (with A/C) is a nice replacement for the '80-85 cardboard version. I'm not sure about the non-A/C glove boxes. https://supermotors.net/getfile/552829/thumbnail/glovebox.jpg Bullnose-style glove box latches can be found in many older Ford/L/M vehicles in various colors (instead of just black) with & w/o chrome & lock cylinders. https://supermotors.net/getfile/425680/thumbnail/latchesglovebox.jpg Most F/L/M pre-'92 steering wheels interchange, as do their horn pads regardless of trim (black, chrome, woodgrain...). Of course cruise buttons limit interchangeability. But a pre-'92 tilt/cruise steering column WITH all the cruise wiring, control module, vacuum lines, servo w/throttle cable, & VSS w/speedo cable will interchange with a pre-'92 non-tilt/cruise column. No wire cutting. https://supermotors.net/getfile/978977/thumbnail/column84.jpg '80-86 tachometer interchanges with '80-86 tach blanking plate. Most non-tach clusters have a tach-ready film circuit on the back, and most dash harnesses are tach-ready. But it's easy to swap the whole cluster &/or add 1 wire for the tach feed. https://supermotors.net/getfile/506662/thumbnail/cluster85.jpg '80-96/7 window motors are interchangeable, despite minor design changes (resulting in MUCH more reliability & speed from the later/smaller motors). Motors from several other Ford/L/M products of the era also fit (some requiring connector change), but I don't have those specifics. I just grab them when I notice them in JYs. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1088460/thumbnail/motordsmbl.jpg '80-96/7 (& other F/L/M vehicles/years/models) window motor gear "bushings" can be replaced with common 1/4" nuts. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1088462/thumbnail/motornuts.jpg Later (?-'96/7) hi-lo mount breakaway "bubble-back" door mirrors are direct replacements for early square-body breakaways. Avoid aftermarket knockoffs which wobble at speed (identified by the hex bolt holding the mirror head to the arm, instead of the factory countersunk Torx bolt; and the lack of a black plastic lip around the mirror head). https://supermotors.net/getfile/684607/thumbnail/mirrorrbb.jpg '80-96/7 door strike bolts interchange, but the later (possibly '89-96/7) bolt's shield reduces the door's tendency to jam in a collision. https://supermotors.net/getfile/687500/thumbnail/strkebolts.jpg '80-96/7 courtesy light switches interchange (EXCEPT some '92-3). The later design uses enclosed contacts, but the 3-pin connector & mount are the same. https://supermotors.net/getfile/161326/thumbnail/door-sw-1.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/768213/thumbnail/doorsw93.jpg '80-96/7 speakers interchange, as well as from other F/L/M vehicles (which often have upgraded name-brand speakers). '80-96/7 F-series/Bronco C2 PS pump & steering box w/pitman arm are interchangeable; pulleys, brackets, & hoses may NOT be, depending on belt type, engine size, year, 2/4WD... '80-96 F150/Bronco spring towers are interchangeable regardless of shock configuration; to add quad front shocks (4WD only), brackets must also be added to the axle beams. (Replacement of factory rivets with bolts is the normal service procedure for damaged spring towers & other frame components, so not a "mod".) http://supermotors.net/getfile/506533/thumbnail/springtowersquad.jpg '80-96 D44IFS assemblies (w/brakes) will fit bullnoses, though their parts are NOT necessarily interchangeable across years/models/options. '93-96 Broncos have front ABS sensors which can be abandoned in-place to put that axle under any other truck in this range. '83-96 Ford 8.8" rear axles will fit bullnoses, but later (maybe '90-up) have a companion-flange instead of a yoke. The mating flange is easy to add to the last U-joint on an older driveshaft without mods. https://supermotors.net/getfile/74202/thumbnail/companionflange.jpg I'm not sure of the oldest ?-'86 Ford 9" rear axle that will fit without mods, but it's a weaker design and can be replaced by the 8.8" (which is why Ford did that). The '93-95 Lightning F150 8.8" center casting has cooling fins. https://supermotors.net/getfile/940128/thumbnail/lightningcenter.jpg '83-86 8.8" axleshafts have a small pilot (lugcentric wheels); '87-up are direct replacements with a larger pilot (same size as the 4WD front hub snouts), and make the rear wheels hubcentric. All 8.8" covers are interchangeable (including IRS cast Aluminum with or without those mounting bosses). Most '80-96/7 F-series under-frame spare tire carrier parts are interchangeable, though the assemblies may have minor differences. https://supermotors.net/getfile/895335/thumbnail/spareunderbed.jpg Most '80-96/7 rear bumpers are interchangeable, though Bronco mounting brackets are different from Fs'. https://supermotors.net/getfile/922798/thumbnail/bumperr8096.jpg '80-96/7 wiper arms are interchangeable; '94-up are the improved J-hook style. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1024312/thumbnail/wiperj.jpg '80-96/7 (& many other F/L/M) brushed stainless antenna mast is identical. Some other vehicles have factory black &/or sleeved mast which is a direct replacement. https://supermotors.net/getfile/75986/thumbnail/antennae.jpg '80-96/7 w/s mouldings (outside) are identical; '94-up are usually factory black. https://supermotors.net/getfile/859762/thumbnail/wstrimbk.jpg The '82-86 bucking Bronco chrome (only) fender badge is identical to the Bronco II's, which was also available in factory black. https://supermotors.net/getfile/310325/thumbnail/emblemsebbkhorse.jpg '80-96 Bronco swingaway spare tire carriers (w/body mounts) fit bullnose Broncos (but bullnose mounts don't fit later Broncos). Both later designs are stronger & quieter, but eliminate the padlock in favor of a keyed lug nut. The last has a superior latch (requiring the mating strike). '80-96 Bronco inside spare tire carriers are identical. '78-96 Bronco rear seat mounting hardware is identical. '78-91 seats are identical (except upholstery); '92-96 only differ in seat belt mounting locations (& upholstery colors). https://supermotors.net/getfile/217631/thumbnail/backseat-hardware.jpg '78-82 Bronco tailgate shells (w/latches) are interchangeable; '83-96 Bronco t/g shells/latches; '80-96 Bronco t/g glass; '78-96 Bronco t/g guts (most of the other parts, except wiring which has minor differences). These may not make the cut... The BW1356 manual-shift transfer case (w/shifter, boot, & bezel) will replace the NP208F if a new hole is cut in the floor for the shifter, and the old shifter hole is closed off. The 1356 is MUCH stronger, but suffers from a weakness affecting its fluid pump, which is easy & free to upgrade while the t-case is out. https://supermotors.net/getfile/937281/thumbnail/pump17.jpg The '92-96/7 door lock motor (w/mounting bracket) interchanges only if the later connector is spliced onto the old wiring (no more difficult than changing a speaker or light bulb connector). https://supermotors.net/getfile/687494/thumbnail/lkmtrs.jpg Some later plastic dome/map lamps (ONLY the shape shown in this pic) from many Ford/L/M vehicles are direct replacements for the bullnose RPO chrome dome/map lamps. http://supermotors.net/getfile/726814/thumbnail/domesss.jpg The '80-96/7 RPO dome/map harness (with or w/o cargo) is a direct replacement for the dome-only harness, and allows either a dome-only or a dome-map lamp. Many other domes (of all years/makes) will fit if their connectors are spliced on (2 or 3 wires). https://supermotors.net/getfile/1022096/thumbnail/48interior2.jpg By adding 3 wires, a later electronic chime (large black 7-pin) or buzzer (smaller black 7-pin) can replace an older buzzer (green 4-pin). By adding 2, the later white buzzer (smaller white 6-pin) will work. Each additional wire adds functionality. https://supermotors.net/getfile/233590/thumbnail/chimes.jpg '87-early '88 A/C control panel (w/inside box) fits '80-86 A/C trucks, allowing independent control of functions. I don't specifically remember any wiring or dash mods (from ~20 years ago), but some might be necessary. https://supermotors.net/getfile/978978/thumbnail/hvac87.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/165445/thumbnail/radio1.jpg Virtually any RV mirror (w/mounting button & associated wiring) will replace a bullnose RV mirror. Those with compass, auto-dimming, & thermometer (w/external sensor) are significant & worthwhile upgrades. https://supermotors.net/getfile/71713/thumbnail/rearview.jpg The pin that sticks up through the door panel under the window (the window "sill") for the door lock. Early trucks have a sliding lock on the door panel near the inside latch handle. I said it before, but: Steve - I'm going to assume by the lack of comment that you agree with my re-writing of your earlier interchange ideas. As for the others, WOW! I understand your can-of-worms analogy, but I think it is more like drinking from a fire hose. With that and the TSB's I have more things to do than I can get done this year. But, they are good things, so thanks. I'll have to work on these things as and when I get the time. I'm going to put getting things done in the shop as the priority now and computer work second. But, since the grandtwins officially leave for Nicaragua mid-day today I'll need to be busy to take my mind off of it. So, thanks for all of the suggestions. I'll work through those slowly and keep coming back here to update y'all. But, don't stop suggesting upgrades in this thread. That way we will know where they are.

Compared to the other one this one is overpriced.

Nice truck for a nice price. I'd buy thing in a heartbeat if I could get to it. That thing would be worth twice that here.