Gary Lewis

Nice truck for a nice price. I'd buy thing in a heartbeat if I could get to it. That thing would be worth twice that here.

Don't take it personally! I just think Ford's reasons for changing to the newer stuff were mostly good, so I always think of using newer parts/materials first. Even easier - it doesn't need clamps. Ford didn't even use a clamp where that tubing was subject to 100psi gasoline on top of the engine, and I've never seen or heard of it leaking. I don't use heat, either; just a drop of clean motor oil. Probably not, but I wouldn't run steel line that close, either. Even if it doesn't hurt the tubing, it would likely boil/vapor-lock the gas inside. But it's easy to route the nylon over the frame - it doesn't take a bender to wind it around some curves to move it away from the heat. If there's really no other routing for it, a small heat shield will do wonders for keeping the temperature down. A small groove in the bottom of each lower body mount (or the top of the lower mount's washer) will allow water to drain. Filling the top "funnel" with anti-seize lube will reduce how much water can get in, and pre-treat the bolt for future removal. A huge flat washer on top will block most of the water from ever getting in. https://supermotors.net/getfile/970533/thumbnail/drainwasher.jpg Read this & the NEXT several captions: https://supermotors.net/getfile/919953/thumbnail/bodymtl1a.jpg Good how-to Steve. I don't have one of those Vise-Grips, but next time I'll get a pair. Good excuse. And next time will be when I tear Big Blue down for the engine/tranny/fuel system work as the core support has to be replaced.

One layer at a time, and pretty soon you'll have a Bloomin' Onion or an ogre. Not sure which. Did you ever get the choke hooked up? You need the choke to back off as the engine gets warm or you'll have problems. As for the timing drifting, it sounds like your clamp isn't. Perhaps you have the wrong bolt in it and it is bottoming out w/o clamping the dizzy down?

Well, congratulations on the maiden voyage!!! That's great. As for the regulator, yes that is one. And w/o it working properly your alternator won't work. So, if you know your alternator is good then replace the regulator. If not, have the alternator tested and then replace the regulator.

Ha! Well, that is exactly what was so frustrating about those core support mounts. The way they thread together, they're impossible to do anything with once seized from the rust. I spent way too much time removing them, only to find out the steel mounts on the frame were bad and I ended up replacing them anyway. If only I knew then what I know now... I'll have brakes this weekend...in boxes...lol. I'll start installing stuff...no idea how far I'll get, but my optimism is high. Brakes - in boxes. That's a good one! Did you ever see the movie Bedazzled? I think whomever designed those mounts is closely associated with that guy. And, they are laughing their heads off as we try to figure out how to get things apart w/o damaging everything.

"Can" and "fiberglass"? I've seen the 303 vacuum can and the ball, but one with a fiberglass coating I've not seen. Now I'm curious. Where are the pics????

The timed port is typically used for vacuum advance, and rarely anything else unless it is for some emissions system. Everything else gets full, manifold vacuum. So, if your transmission was originally hooked up via the manifold on the firewall, which was fed from the big port on the rear of the carb, then that was hooked up correctly. But somehow something you've done has made the engine seem like it is really rich. If it were me I'd put things back and see if that fixes it. Then, if I wanted to make changes, I'd do them one at a time and find out which one causes the problem and understand why. You can see here how I like to run things: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/vacuum-systems.html.

I think Ford's core supports and cab mounts were designed by someone named Lucas. Probably Joe's brother Larry, Prince of Rust. They are of a design that truly "holds water". Glad the new sending unit worked so well. Another layer of onion peeled. So, you might have brakes this weekend?

Blackdog - Welcome! Glad Steve sent you our way. I hope you will document your project with pics and frequent updates as we like to live vicariously, seeing the progress others make. But, since you posted in the "Projects" section not everyone is going to see it. (This forum is a bit odd in that you have to "subscribe" to threads, folders, or the whole forum in order to get email notification of a new post or thread. And not everyone has subscribed to this folder.) So, you should go to the New Members Start Here folder, read the guidelines, and then start a new topic/thread in that folder to introduce yourself. Most people watch that folder and will welcome you. Also, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map in the menu) and I can add you to that if you'll just give me a city. As for the horn, I've not known of many people having problems with them. The circuit is pretty simple, so I'm not sure why someone would have to bypass the switch on the steering column. Apparently yours is bypassed?

No, I wouldn't use any line close to a header or exhaust. Especially not rubber or plastic. As for installing, I heated mine w/a heat gun and it slipped right on. But when it cooled it was "there".

So should we hold off on adding those items to the page while going forward with the others? And a couple of more that I thought of, but need help with: Sun Visors: Interchange from 1980 through 1996 9& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco. However, 19XX and on have a holder on the inside end that capture the end of the rod to prevent the visor from drooping, and the holder requires drilling a hole for a pin and another for the screw. So, the fact that a screw hole has to be drilled means this isn't an "interchange"? Probably so. And I made the rules. But, perhaps the rules should be changed? And, another: Coolant Recovery Reservoir: The 1980-84 reservoirs can be replaced by the '85-86 reservoir if you get the reservoir, the hose, and the bracket that bolts to the fender, as explained here. But the 1987 on reservoirs do not bolt in.

Oh my goodness!!!!! WOW! So, if we wait a few years and THEN come up with the fog light switch bezel we could get that kind of money????? Anyway, I've added it to my Research page on eBay.

If that's what you want it restricted to, it's fine. I just need some boundaries. Depends on your definition of "bolt-on". If you lift out the engine & wiring & fuel lines & tank(s) & exhaust, the newer stuff pretty much bolts in. That's how I originally put EFI on my '83. But wires WERE cut! (Not as many as you might think, though.) So bolt-in Ford chairs only - gotcha. What about welding on the replacement part? Disqualifier? I'm just starting my rear disk project, by swapping the complete rear axle. But I have to cut the disk axle's spring perches & shock mounts off to weld on the ones that fit our trucks. Then it'll bolt in. But I haven't nailed down the e-brake cables yet. So no wiring changes at all? Or just no cutting? Adding a new wire/fuse/harness section - OK or not? The 3G & voltmeter swaps CAN be done without cutting, but it's much easier to wire the voltmeter if the film circuit on the back of the cluster is cut instead of just folded out of the way or taped off. But I think I'm getting the idea of what you're after... I tend to think in terms of "improvements/upgrades/modernization", regardless of how invasive they might be. I'll try to shift my focus back to "parts interchange"... How are these? - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Inside W/S Trim: early upper clips are replaced by later screws (which self-drill into the hidden sheet metal) and '92-up is notched for RV mirror wiring; early metal upper door trim is integrated into later plastic A-pillar trim (also with later screws). - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Front Door Shell: '80-82 lack a hole for the sill button; '92-up have an extra hole for the mirror support (hidden by all RPO mirrors); '94-up have a larger hole for the wiring boot; '95-up have a side-impact beam (indicated by an extra subtle body line near the bottom); '96-up have a larger lock cylinder hole (requiring the later cylinder, or a plastic spacer). - '84-91 F-series/Bronco Brake/Clutch Pedal Box Assembly: hydraulic linkage does not fit '80-83 without drilling the firewall, changing the cruise cancel switch connector, and plugging the pushrod hole. - '85-95 F-series/Bronco MAP Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines (w/o MAF, '94-95 RPO). - '85-95 F-series/Bronco ACT Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines (w/o MAF, '94-95 RPO). - '85-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR gasoline) F-series/Bronco ECT Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines. - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Temperature Sender (Gauge): interchangeable from virtually all Ford/L/M products of the era. - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Taillight Assembly: '80-86 grooved w/small reverse lens; '87-91 smooth with wraparound reverse lens; '92-96 smooth w/small reverse lens. - '80-91 F-series/Bronco E-Brake Pedal Assembly (w/front cable section): fits all wheelbases. - '80-91 F-series/Bronco E-Brake Tension Limiter/Equalizer: fits all wheelbases. - '80-96 F150/Bronco E-Brake Cables (axle sections): all axles/wheelbases. - '80-96 F150/Bronco Wheels, Hub Caps, Center Caps, & Lug Nuts: all RPO 1/2-ton wheels are 15" with 5-on-5.5" lug circle and cone-seat 1/2-20 lug nuts 13/16" drive. I'm not 100% sure on the ACT & ECT connector shapes, though the sensors themselves screw in. And I could be wrong about the F250-350 tension limiter being interchangeable. But I think the others are correct. Steve - Let me re-write your statements in the format I'm trying to use: Inside Windshield Trim: 1987-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Inside W/S Trim will fit. The Bullnose trucks used upper clips, and those are replaced by screws in the later trim, which self-drill into the hidden sheet metal. In addition, the '92-up is notched for RV mirror wiring I don't know what to do with "early metal upper door trim is integrated into later plastic A-pillar trim (also with later screws)". Surely the later A-pillar trim doesn't work on a Bullnose given the differences in dashes? Front Door Shell: 1980-82 doors lack a hole for the sill button (what is a "sill button"); '92-up have an extra hole for the mirror support (hidden by all RPO mirrors); '94-up have a larger hole for the wiring boot; '95-up have a side-impact beam (indicated by an extra subtle body line near the bottom); '96-up have a larger lock cylinder hole (requiring the later cylinder, or a plastic spacer). But all of the doors will fit on a Bullnose. Brake/Clutch Pedal Box Assembly: Automatic brake pedal assemblies interchange between 1980-86. 1983-86 hydraulic clutch linkage does not fit '80-83 without drilling the firewall, changing the cruise cancel switch connector, and plugging the pushrod hole. 1987 and up pedal assembly does not fit Bullnose trucks. MAP Sensor: Interchangeable among all EFI truck engines 1985-95 F-series/Bronco w/o MAF ('94-96 RPO) ACT Sensor: Interchangeable among all EFI truck engines 1985-95 F-series/Bronco w/o MAF ('94-95 RPO). ECT Sensor: Interchangeable among all EFI truck engines 1985-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR gasoline) F-series/Bronco. Temperature Sender (Gauge): Interchangeable from virtually all Ford/L/M products of the era, 1980-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco . Taillight Assembly: Taillight lenses interchange between all '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Broncos. However, '80-86 is grooved w/small reverse lens; '87-91 is smooth with wraparound reverse lens; & '92-96 smooth w/small reverse lens. E-Brake Pedal Assembly (w/front cable section): Fits all wheelbases for '80-91 F-series/Bronco. E-Brake Tension Limiter/Equalizer: fits all wheelbases for '80-91 F-series/Bronco. E-Brake Cables (axle sections): fits all axles/wheelbases '80-96 F150/Bronco. Wheels, Hub Caps, Center Caps, & Lug Nuts: all RPO 1/2-ton wheels are 15" with 5-on-5.5" lug circle and cone-seat 1/2-20 lug nuts 13/16" drive from '80 through '96 F150/Bronco. Does that capture what you were saying? Also, you said: So should we hold off on adding those items to the page while going forward with the others?

If it is now running way too rich, and I'm assuming you mean at idle, then you must have had a large vacuum leak before and the idle mix screws were turned way out to compensate for the extra air coming in. In that case, you will need to adjust the idle air mix screws. But, you also need to figure out where all the air was coming from and if what you did was appropriate. Have you checked to see that the hose to the transmission is connected on the side of the transmission? That would cause a fairly large vacuum leak that you wouldn't hear, and I think it will make the transmission shift hard. Another possibility is a blown vacuum modulator on the tranny. Pull the hose off at the modulator and see if fluid runs out. If the modulator is blown fluid can get past it and into vacuum line and then into the carb, and cause the exhaust to smoke. And, it will change the shifting. As for the vacuum ports on the front and rear, I think both of those are full manifold vacuum. In other words, they aren't "PVC ports". But either can be used as a PVC port. Or, one can be used for vacuum to the firewall-mounted manifold. Does that help?

Welcome. If you can install the switch so that it is open when the lever is pushed forward and closed when it is pulled back then you could think "forward to go, backward to stop" - or somesuch.

Never gave that a thought Thanks Dave ---- Working a grommet, even a rubber one if not a brass one, into the hole would both look finished as well as keep the hole open.

I had a meeting at church and then a haircut, and now I'm waaaaay behind. Let me try to catch up quickly:

Yes and no, in that order. Yes, you have a switch that will work. But no, don't hook it up that way. You want the dark green/yellow wire that is coming from the coil, as shown here, and is going to the tach, as shown here. I don't think it will be on the steering column, but it will be going to the instruments, and you could get to it fairly easily by pulling the instrument cluster out and disconnecting it from the harness. That would give you pretty good access to the wire. But you want to tap into that wire, leaving the wire intact, and take the wire that you've connected to the dark green/yellow wire to one side of your switch - and it doesn't matter which side. Then, take a wire from the other side of the switch to ground. Presto, when the switch is On the engine cannot run. Why you might ask? Because the coil is grounded and nothing the ignition module does can create a spark.

Don't forget to put a hole in the bottom of the bike tube to let it drain when it rains.

If that's what you want it restricted to, it's fine. I just need some boundaries. Depends on your definition of "bolt-on". If you lift out the engine & wiring & fuel lines & tank(s) & exhaust, the newer stuff pretty much bolts in. That's how I originally put EFI on my '83. But wires WERE cut! (Not as many as you might think, though.) So bolt-in Ford chairs only - gotcha. What about welding on the replacement part? Disqualifier? I'm just starting my rear disk project, by swapping the complete rear axle. But I have to cut the disk axle's spring perches & shock mounts off to weld on the ones that fit our trucks. Then it'll bolt in. But I haven't nailed down the e-brake cables yet. So no wiring changes at all? Or just no cutting? Adding a new wire/fuse/harness section - OK or not? The 3G & voltmeter swaps CAN be done without cutting, but it's much easier to wire the voltmeter if the film circuit on the back of the cluster is cut instead of just folded out of the way or taped off. But I think I'm getting the idea of what you're after... I tend to think in terms of "improvements/upgrades/modernization", regardless of how invasive they might be. I'll try to shift my focus back to "parts interchange"... How are these? - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Inside W/S Trim: early upper clips are replaced by later screws (which self-drill into the hidden sheet metal) and '92-up is notched for RV mirror wiring; early metal upper door trim is integrated into later plastic A-pillar trim (also with later screws). - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Front Door Shell: '80-82 lack a hole for the sill button; '92-up have an extra hole for the mirror support (hidden by all RPO mirrors); '94-up have a larger hole for the wiring boot; '95-up have a side-impact beam (indicated by an extra subtle body line near the bottom); '96-up have a larger lock cylinder hole (requiring the later cylinder, or a plastic spacer). - '84-91 F-series/Bronco Brake/Clutch Pedal Box Assembly: hydraulic linkage does not fit '80-83 without drilling the firewall, changing the cruise cancel switch connector, and plugging the pushrod hole. - '85-95 F-series/Bronco MAP Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines (w/o MAF, '94-95 RPO). - '85-95 F-series/Bronco ACT Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines (w/o MAF, '94-95 RPO). - '85-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR gasoline) F-series/Bronco ECT Sensor: interchangeable among all EFI truck engines. - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Temperature Sender (Gauge): interchangeable from virtually all Ford/L/M products of the era. - '80-96 (& '97 >8500GVWR) F-series/Bronco Taillight Assembly: '80-86 grooved w/small reverse lens; '87-91 smooth with wraparound reverse lens; '92-96 smooth w/small reverse lens. - '80-91 F-series/Bronco E-Brake Pedal Assembly (w/front cable section): fits all wheelbases. - '80-91 F-series/Bronco E-Brake Tension Limiter/Equalizer: fits all wheelbases. - '80-96 F150/Bronco E-Brake Cables (axle sections): all axles/wheelbases. - '80-96 F150/Bronco Wheels, Hub Caps, Center Caps, & Lug Nuts: all RPO 1/2-ton wheels are 15" with 5-on-5.5" lug circle and cone-seat 1/2-20 lug nuts 13/16" drive. I'm not 100% sure on the ACT & ECT connector shapes, though the sensors themselves screw in. And I could be wrong about the F250-350 tension limiter being interchangeable. But I think the others are correct. Steve - Let's go with the "no cutting/welding" approach initially. I think there are plenty of things we can capture with that guideline to keep us busy for a while, and then we can see if we need to mod the guideline. As for EFI being "bolt-on", and you know this better than I since you've done it and I'm only planning it, the wiring scheme changed significantly enough between the Bullnose era and the later trucks that the number of changes required to integrate the two is mind-boggling. Going from fusible links hanging off the solenoid to individual fuses in a neat box on the left fender is causing me to ponder my sanity. On the disc brake idea, how about if we have another category called maybe "Upgrades" or "Modifications" or somesuch? And on the 3G/voltmeter issue, I think the how-to on the 3G instructions could be improved. As you've pointed out, if the alternator's output is taken off the shunt there's no reason to remove the shunt. And, then there's no need to cut the wires to the ammeter, although it'll only register discharge and not charge. But in both of these cases we'll need a write-up on how to make it happen. So we can't just put up a list that says "you can swap this part in place of that part", which is what I'd intended for the Interchange page. Anyway, your list of suggestions is a good one. But I need to get my head around each of them and write them up in the format I'm envisioning, plus come back and ask questions so I understand. Thanks! Cory - Yes, the later model bed will swap, and it is fairly common - albeit less than comely. (I remember watching the made-for-TV movie Waco and pointing out to my wife a Bullnose with a Bricknose bed. ) And, since Steve has pointed out that the later tail light lenses will sway then we need to include the beds themselves. All - Keep those ideas coming in! To some extent I need to see how far-ranging the interchange list is going to be in order to know how to organize this page.

Dare I ask what they are for? Not that I'm worried it isn't for a Bullnose, but to see if there's another number for them. And, did you get last night's text response?

Yes, the gauges really "pop" now.

I don't think they were coated from the factory from what I remember, and had what I would call a "raw" look. So bead blasting them would work to clean them, but I'd use something like walnut hulls to do it as that will clean but not change the texture. And, as Steve said, don't use steel shot to blast them. I'm not sure polishing would be very easy. Again, this is my remembrance, but I think they have a texture to them that will require a lot of sanding/polishing to smooth out enough to achieve a shine. But, I may well be wrong.

Zach - Welcome! That's a wonderful story. As a grandfather myself, I'd love it if one of my grandkids took an interest in my truck. And, by the way, two of them were born in Nashville. You've done some work on that truck. The gauges have been painted and look great, and a tach has probably been added as a Custom wasn't likely to come with one. (I can tell it has been added as a tach would have come with a speedo that included a trip odometer.) And the work on the bed is really well done. Routing the boards is a nice touch. Plus, I really like your helper!

Yep, that's the 2150 with secondaries - right?