Gary Lewis

Cory - I'll look some more. Surely I can find it.

Welcome! Glad you joined. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map) and I could add you if you'd give me a city. As for the truck, stock may be the way to go for a while, but when you have the money you might want to go with the better exhaust - and a better intake to match. Show us some pics?

You are almost there. Hang in there.

Cory - That's a hard question to answer. Is it possibly this? It is all I can find. Any numbers on the part? If so, here's the part numbers:

Ok, I did get the rest of the parts blasted today, and have just finished a 90 minute bake on the aluminum parts at 400 degrees to burn off the contaminants. But, along the way I had a couple of a few thoughts I wanted to pass on in case one or more of you start powder coating or even media blasting. RTV: Get all the RTV off before you blast. Media blasting takes off a lot of things, but not RTV as the media just bounces off. Yes, some stragglers can be blasted off, but it is much faster to get the bulk off other ways. My favorite is to soak it in brake cleaner and then hit it with a wire brush. For aluminum I use a brass "toothbrush". Powder Coating: You can blast powder coating off, but it is faster to soak it prior to blasting, and O'Reilly's brake cleaner is my favorite as it will bubble powder coating, making it much easier to blast off. And the Chrysler valve cover had powder on it that was stuck well. (But the 460 valve covers had a thin coat of aluminum paint that almost blew off with compressed air.) Tooth: Mark/Dyn asked yesterday if I use baking soda, and I explained that I don't because I want "tooth" to increase the adherence of the powder. And you can see on the pic below, the surface below the powder is clearly smoooooth. And here's the after-blasting pic, showing that the almost mirror finish is pitted, giving much better adhesion. And, in this pic the valve cover is ready for its time in the oven to drive out the impurities, having been washed with the brake cleaner. Last, just for grins, here's what the under side looks like:

Wow! Things seem to be heating up for our trucks. Look at what the Bronco went for:

Since he may not see this while on his trip, I'll answer: Brandon/Bruno2 lives in Broken Arrow, OK. That's maybe 30 miles from me, and we see each other frequently. Our love for old Ford trucks have created a friendship.

Brandon/Bruno2 - That's where Blue was made. Cool! (And I like your choice of shirts. )

Gary, I’ve never seen Eddie Bauer in a pickup but lots of Broncos have it. The 1986 Bronco that my “good” pair of captain chairs came from was Eddie Bauer’d and had different fabric and little trees across the back of the seat. I just hate it and the fabric is inferior to the XLT Ford stuff... but the seats are in great condition and need recovered in a different color anyway. It had the same goofy stick-on badge in the radio bezel nameplate area and on the fenders below the Bronco badges. :nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush::nabble_smiley_blush: I'd never seen this before. Boy, you are right. Is this something to record in the Year-To-Year differences?

Ok, I think I understand on the factory bracket. As for modifying it, this post on FTE shows how I did it on a very different bracket. Doubt it'll be helpful, but just in case. On the DNA bracket, can you use washers as the "filler sleeves"?

Yipes!!! $23,500? That's real money. Nice truck, but.....

That's basically the same place mine is on Big Blue. But I have to think about it when I tow as the integrated one on Blue is on the opposite side. As for towing w/o a load, both my controllers have an adjustment for braking, and I just back it off until the tires don't slide.

Yes, I agree that you don't want sharp transitions where it could cut the line. A nice smooth bump seals the hose and ensures it can't come off when you have a clamp on the back side.

Kevin - It is difficult to compare three drawings: yours from Painless; the Duraspark in the 1985 EVTM; and the EEC in the 1985 EVTM. (The latter two are on pages 27 and 28, respectively, here: Electrical/1985 EVTM/Start & Ignition Gasoline) But I think I'm sorta kinda getting my mind wrapped around them. To your questions, the EEC system does have the same resistor to drop voltage to the coil. Look at the drawing from Page 28, below, and you'll see that there's a 1.1 ohm resistor. My blue line shows how the current flows to the coil in Run, and the red line shows how the resistor is bypassed in Start. So in Run the coil should see something like 7 volts, but in Start it should see full battery voltage. And here's the Duraspark wiring diagram from Page 27. It is laid out differently, but you still have the 1.1 ohm resistor and the coil still sees a reduced voltage in Run and full voltage in Start. Does that answer Question 1? As for Question 2, if your engine is not kicking back then I wouldn't worry about the white wire. Now, for my question: You show that you tied the coil wire to "hot". But, have you confirmed that you are getting something like 7 volts to the coil? That the resistor is actually being used? Or, maybe I should ask exactly where you tied into the red/light green wire? I want to make sure you tied in after the resistor.

That would be a neat way to use that space. Print up a piece to fit into the opening and add raised lettering that looks like stock.

You are SO CLOSE to firing it! I'd have been dreaming about it all night. I think the phenolic spacer is a good idea. Get a bunch of heat away from the carb. And that's a serious looking starter. I assume that in the first pic of it the drive has been unbolted from the rear of the starter? But I'm lost on the alternator bracket. What mod's does the DNA one need? It looks way better than the factory one, and it doesn't crowd the bypass hose. However, might you have the factory one on backwards? Might the ears for the alternator go down? And, wouldn't that un-crowd the bypass hose?

Nice truck. I think the wheels will clean up nicely, but I'd get rid of the mud flaps. And the seat looks out of place, but comfortable. I had a '72, so am a fan. But this one doesn't thrill me. Was the passenger side interior shot before the floor was replaced? There's a bend in the bed on the passenger's side. The front bumper is rusty. Why does it have two locking gas cap doors, one on each side.

I like it! And, I'd pay the money for it if I were in a hunt for a Bronco. It is clean, appears to not have rust, and the upgrades are pretty much as I would have done. However, what are the "awning tent rooms included for both sides"? Are these camping tents that attach to the truck?

You are quick, and cheap.

That would be a neat place for a brake controller.

Slick idea, Bill. Don't think I'd have thought of that, but it worked out very nicely. I'll remember that - I hope.

Thanks! Just realized that the bowl games don't start until 3 PM Central tomorrow. So, I should at least get the rest of the blasting done, and maybe the 1 hour+ bake at 400 degrees. Then starts the masking off process as we don't want powder in the intake, inside the valve covers, etc.

Well, it wasn't really a black hole. Or even a Chevy, or a Mopar for that matter. It was a twinvasion. (Get it? Twin invasion.) Speaking of Mopars, I forgot to post a pic of the convertible parts, which I have blasted. Wow, they were rusty. I may run them through the blast cabinet again just to be sure the rust is gone. And, as said in the email, the valve cover is drying from having been cleaned with brake cleaner to make sure that the baked-on oil doesn't get into the media in the blast cabinet.

You, sir, are on the map.

No, I'm using coal slag. Aluminum castings need fairly heavy abrasive in order to get things off/out of it, and lighter or softer media doesn't do that. Plus, you don't want smooth surfaces for powder. It needs something with "tooth" to grab hold of. If I were doing delicate things, like a carb or pistons, then I'd go to walnut hulls and turn the pressure down. But my experience with soda wasn't good. It was too "soft". Lacked "bite". Yes, it might take paint off, but slowly. And it breaks into DUST on impact, so doesn't seem like it would be good in a cabinet. However, I don't know that as I've not tried it. And, here's what I got done today. Lots of really clean 460 parts. Next up, probably Monday, is to melt some powder on those parts.