Gary Lewis

Well, the '84 Bronco only got to $11,102 and that didn't meet the reserve. So it has been relisted but with 3 more pics, although I don't know which ones. And, this time there's no Buy It Now price. But the '81 Flareside appears to have been sold for $4,999. At least that's the way I read it. And, in "Research" it doesn't look like old items disappear. So, using that function we might be able to sorta kinda watch to see if the price of our trucks is increasing. However, that won't be easy as it is doubtful the same truck will be for sale again, so we will be comparing apples and oranges. And, as Dylan said, the times they are a changing, and along with that so is the stock market. And I think the rise/fall of the market may have something to do with the price of old trucks.

Are the EFI intakes desirable as well? I have no idea. I read through the thread last night out of curiosity as I am tentatively going to look at an 81 on Wednesday with a 300/6. You know I've been wanting one, right?.... If I get it, and that's far from guaranteed, I didn't really have any plans to modify the thing much...but if some junkyard manifolds are beneficial, then I'll have a closer look. There's a 1996 F150 2wd there, and a F350 2wd (1992 I think) and they both have completely intact 300/6 engines. I was going to drop by there today and see if I can find an 8.8 diff cover that's in better shape then mine. I'll take a look at the 300's and see what can be removed. Cory - What time zone are you in? Hawaiian? 3:12 AM? Anyway, I doubt the EFI intakes are highly desirable unless you are going EFI, but you'd need the whole shooting match then. So disregard what I said about intakes. But, have a fun day today at the "shopping center", which is what my wife calls a salvage. And, good luck on Wednesday!

I hope all the mounting surfaces from the rectifier, to the alt case, to the bracket, to the head/block are clean & bare-metal. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1055207/thumbnail/06bracket02.jpg There is no DISadvantage to upgrading now to the 130A 3G, and a few advantages: more availability & reliability, and more capacity for anything you might ever do (like unplanned jump-charging/-starting). Never a good idea with the 2G, and not worth the cost for a 1G. The 3G is better in every way, and not significantly more expensive. At JYs, a good 3G can usually be had for $10-40. No such thing. There is no free energy - you have to put a lot in to get out a noticeable amount. And at low RPM, you're not putting much energy into the alt. It's also not particularly efficient in the lower RPM range at converting mechanical energy to electrical. So if you tried to force it to put out more, you'd just heat it up & probably melt the belt. The most-efficient alternator is probably NOT 50% efficient, so you'll always have to raise the RPMs for heavy loads (like winching, in particular). I'm not aware of that. AFAIK, that function didn't appear until the first EEC-V ('96), and only on gassers. It took me a few years to find the Ford documentation on it, so I added it to this caption: https://supermotors.net/getfile/892730/thumbnail/eecconnectors.jpg Do you have any documentation on an EEC-IV PTO function? I'm not sure what you mean by that, but it's not how I'd word it. The battery is only "in charge" when the alternator isn't working (KOEO). In all other cases, the alternator is the higher voltage source, which makes it king. If the alternator is overloaded, the battery will TRY to take up the slack, but the alt. will remain in overload. And since the battery terminals are almost always points of high resistance (due to corrosion & abuse), it's never likely to actually supply as much current as it's really capable of. I've seen the documentation on the function I called "PTO", but didn't find it just now when I was looking. Perhaps Bill will chime in. And, I'll be using a '96 EEC-V ECU. If I remember correctly it is from a 351W, but it'll be told that it is working with a 460. Truth be told, I've lost track of the documentation and plans I'd put together. But, I do hope to get back to that early next year. As for free energy, I'm not at all suggesting I'll get 130 amps out of the alternator at idle. Just that I don't want to have to run the engine at 3000 RPM to get full output from the alternator. And the "PTO" function that I'm remembering, although my rememberer isn't what it used to be, raises the "idle" speed enough that a 3G will be delivering more than the current 60 amp 1G could deliver at full tilt.

Hey, just curious, but do you happen to know what size socket(s) would be required to remove a set of the EFI exhaust manifolds? I can chop the pipe off with a Sawzall, but I need to know what other tools would be required to remove them. There are at least two 300/6 EFI trucks at the junkyard I go to, and I may grab a set of those exhaust manifolds for a potential future project;). The catalog shows the bolts to be 3/8-16, and that should have a 9/16" head. If you can get two sets I'll be you can sell them. How 'bout the intakes?

Yep, it is important to know the pulley ratio when you go swapping pulleys. Otherwise you may overspeed the alternator, throwing the windings out, or underspeed it and not get much charging.

Would be easier to ship the distributors.

Yes sir, BUT...I have to focus on some easy tasks for now. I really want to remove the rest of the braking system, but I'll wait a little longer until the shoulder heals up. After spending some time cleaning the garage this morning, I popped the cover off my 8.8 diff. I believe the fluid that was in it was the original stuff...and if it wasn't it was in there for a very long time. The fill plug, which I removed earlier this year, was rusted/seized in place so badly it was a real bear to remove. Anyway, looks like it had exactly 2.75 quarts in it, so that's good news. Question(s):? What are you guys typically running for gear oil in your open diffs? I have 3x liters of 80w90 on hand (from Napa), but I was reading today that the 8.8 is supposed to take 75w140 full synthetic? Any comments good or bad? Next up are the axle seals and wheel bearings. I was going to throw new bearings and seals in it, but now I'm wondering if I should even bother? It's not leaking or anything...I was just going to replace them for maintenance sake since they're 35 years old. I'm pretty sure the original spec, which is E0AZ-19580-A, is for dino oil. But synthetic 80W-90 isn't expensive and that's what I'd put in. And if you had a full diff then I'm not sure I'd worry about the seals or bearings. Don't know about an 8.8, but a 9" is a pain to change those on.

Guys - I've added some info to the alternators page (Electrical/Alternators) today to include the info I found in the dealer facts books. That includes this that is shown on the main tab. The 40 amp unit was standard on the F-Series and Bronco The 60 amp unit was optional on the F-Series. But on the Bronco it was only optional from 1980 through 1983. However, as of 1984 it was only available on the Bronco "when included with certain optional equipment not not available separately as an option". The 70 amp unit was only available on the Bronco "when included with certain optional equipment not not available separately as an option". And one of those was the snow plow prep package, which included the 70 amp alternator. The 100 amp unit was not available on either the F-Series or the Bronco And the output table, with RPM, as well as the output charts are shown on the Output vs RPM tab. See what you think.

Hard to tell, but the listings are here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/fuel-tanks.html. And the Bronco is series "U". Have you run it dry and refilled? That should tell you what you have.

The Application tab shows 5 for a 1986 F250/350 w/a 460: 2 for a manual tranny ex CA 2 for an auto tranny ex CA 1 for CA as both the manual tranny and the auto trucks got the same code It is interesting to note that the first character of the calibration code appears to tell the year it was issued, although I don't know that for sure. But it would be calendar year, not model year, as one of the codes used in 1986 (4-98S-R11) was also used in 1985 but not in 1984. So it is as if the code was issued in late '84 for 1985 models. And the suffix, the "RX" part, is the revision number. But, there are huge gaps in the revision #'s. For instance, as shown below, in 1985 there's a 4-98S-R0 for manual transmissioned 460's in CA, and there's a 4-98S-R11 for them, but nothing in between. However, the automatics did have a 4-98S-R10 in addition to the R0 and R10, but no R1's or R5's or..... And that seems to leave the middle, the "98S" in these cases, to tell what the application is. In this case the 98S appears to be for California specifications. And, that tracks as 98S was used for all 460 applications in California for 1983, '84, '85, and '86. Last, note how clear the following blowup is. This is from the pdf and is zoomed in 800%. Had I taken screen shots of the 411 pages which I posted I'd still be working on them. And, if you were then to zoom to that level the image would have been quite blurry. But, by extracting the pages as pdf's, y'all can search them, zoom them, etc to your heart's content. The clarity may not be all that important on these pages with fairly large characters, but I have some pages from the dealer facts books that are almost impossible to use in the image format. So, now I need to go back and re-work those pages. 1985 460

Yes, very nice truck! I can see why you couldn't pass it up.

It looks like things are pretty well answered, but the rear axle info is here: Driveline/Axles & Differentials. On the Rear Axle tab you can see the illustration that shows where to find the tag or info on the axle. Note that the Dana info is on the axle tube. And from the certification label you can get the axle code and look it up here: Specifications/Axle Ratios. Use rating info to figure out what it is via the Axles & Differentials page.

Adam - That's probably a 33 gallon Bronco tank.

$381 US is nice price!

Thanks guys. Bill - I don't need calibration labels themselves because there's not much on them, if I understand correctly, than the number itself. But you did send me the vacuum routing diagram: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/460-v8.html

Welcome! Glad you came over - and glad that Ray Cecil posted a link to here on that site. We have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Members Map). I could add you if you'd like. Santa Fe! Been there several times and really enjoy it. And I think your idea of a truck with EFI is a good one, although that does limit you to the 302 in the Bullnose trucks. But there's nothing wrong w/the 302, and an EFI'd 302 has almost as much power as a carb'd 351W, as you can see here: Engines/Windsor. Anyway, glad you are here.

I think so, assuming that is Light Regatta Blue and Colonial White. The color choices are shown on Page 23 on the 1986 brochure.

Nice! How long have you had it? Tell us more about it?

We can agree to disagree, as I see a need for a 3G in Big Blue. First, here's the link to the info on the Bullnose alternators: Electrical/Alternators. As you will see, 40, 60, 70, and even 100 amp units were available. But the 100's were typically used on ambulances from what I've read. Now, for the need for an upgrade. I have some charts that show that the alternators didn't reach the rated current output until 3000 engine RPM. But the 2G ramped up much faster. And the 3G went full-tilt by 2000 RPM. In fact, the old RJM site said that the 3G put out more current at idle than the 1G at full tilt. So, it isn't so much max current but at what RPM that current is available. I rarely get to 3000 RPM in Big Blue, and even then it is only while accelerating, and then it drops to less than 2500. And when I get the ZF5 in it'll cruise at 1900 RPM. What I want is an alternator that will kick out lots of current when I'm winching w/o having to rev the engine significantly. I do plan to put a switch on to trigger the EEC-IV systems's PTO function, which will cause the IAC to open and make it run quite a bit faster. But it won't be all that fast, so the alternator needs to be upgraded.

I've never heard of those engines, but it looks like it was dropped from 50' to fit under that hood. Wow!

Perhaps this belongs in the Merry Christmas, The Documentation Is Ready thread, but I think it also deserves its own thread. I just added 411 pages of Ford nitty gritty documentation to the site. Some of it is on the new page entitled Calibration Info & Part #'s. And some of it is on the already-existing pages for the various carbs, but you need to start on the Calibration Info page to have the code to unlock the doors on the carb pages. The info is in pdf's extracted from the MPC and, as in the new style, can be searched, zoomed in on, etc. And the info provides the detail to tell what jets your carb came with, what power valve, what barometric pressure sensor, etc. But, it took a fair amount of thought to create the verbiage to help you map your way through the maze, and I'm not sure I did a good job there. So I'd REALLY like your input. Can you follow it? If not, where do you get lost? What needs to be changed?

I dropped by again yesterday to see if they moved the old Bullnose out into the yard yet, and no dice. It's still sitting in the "pending" pile. I asked one of the guys there, and he said it's going to be there for a while (a long while). They're swamped with vehicles, have nowhere to put them, and they've been busy for the past couple months crushing the "dirty" VW TDI scandal cars. It seems so weird to me to be taking these cars that don't even have a scratch on them straight to the crusher. Truckloads of them, one after another. It's like one of those things I just can't watch...lol. I agree - I couldn't watch. Just something wrong with crushing a pristine vehicle.

Those numbers are HIGHLY suspicious (dubious) to me... The 4.9L uses the same ~4" pistons as the other smallblocks. 6 of them are 24" long, without any cylinder wall between them. Even if that wall is only 1/2" (which I think is VERY conservative), that only leaves 3.5" for the front & back of the block, and the timing gears & cover, and the balancer & belt(s). I'll see if there's any info in the facts books. And, I'll measure my 400 that's on the stand in the shop to see if it corroborates the table.

Our stations that sell 100% gas usually have a separate hose for it. And, it is spendy, but the cost of repair should be figured in as well.

Amen to that!