Gary Lewis

You tried. It is the thought that counts.

Yes sir. Funny how one faulty component can render a grown man useless...lol. I hurt it working under the truck back in the early summer, and it has never healed. Had a cortisone shot in it today, and more Physio starting tomorrow. Ouch! Hope you get back to 100% quickly.

Those look to be the right parts, but they are EXPENSIVE! Glad I'm converting to the later setup. Still, if that's what you need to get going.....

Pretty sure those aren't for our trucks. No entry for 9942528 in the catalog. Close, but no cigar.

That's the right guy.

WOW! That's amazing! To see how still the truck is with reference to the horizon and how much that front suspension is working boggles the mind. Just bumps on the highway make Big Blue ride rough. In fact, we are in Owasso and took BB to get here and we hadn't even really gotten out of town and Janey said "And we are going to ride how far to Colorado in this?"

That's the right part, and a nice price.

What is his FB page called? Or do you mean his own personal page? He has a group for Freewheelin’ and chromatic stripe Broncos and pickups: https://m.facebook.com/groups/443736922474997 I've now joined that page. Didn't see a way to join it as the Bullnose Forum, so joined as myself.

Ad says 5.8L Windsor and auto trans...and in 1995, that would be a roller block too, I think? I missed that, but it should be a roller from what I read as that was supposed to have started in 1994. And, the auto would be the E4OD, which is much better from an MPG standpoint than the C6.

IMO, the best gasket sealant against coolant (hoses & paper gaskets) is Indian Head Shellac. We used it religiously at the Land Rover dealership on their intake pans (which were 1-piece stamped steel with gasket paper on both sides). But it's so aggressive & fast-tacking that there's not much working time to assemble an intake with separate gaskets. That caused a big crankcase leak on the first smallblock I tried it on. https://supermotors.net/getfile/1053105/thumbnail/05gray36.jpg So on the last 2 I installed, I used E6000, but I haven't started either engine yet, so I can't tell you how well it works (or not). https://supermotors.net/getfile/1056052/thumbnail/05gray61.jpg But shellac worked perfectly on the 4.6L silicone O-rings I just fixed for my mother: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1138861/thumbnail/20180815_174815.jpg I also like Permatex Copper Coat spray for coolant gaskets & hoses. Years ago I used Indian Head a bunch, and it worked well. But you are right that its "work time" isn't long enough for something like an intake manifold - especially when using my trick of letting the RTV sit overnight. As for E6000, I haven't used it. But I'm seeing a max temp of from 150 to 180 degrees depending on whose writeup I read, and that seems low for engine use. Am I reading about the wrong thing? On the other hand, The Right Stuff may well be "the right stuff" for the end walls. I've used it for other things, quite successfully, and since it seals "instantly" according to the instructions you wouldn't have to wait overnight. But, the part that has worried me is the "assemble parts within 5 minutes" in the instructions. If the engine is on a stand then I can see getting the intake manifold down w/in that time. But if the engine is still in the vehicle it might be dicey. However, I'm old and slow, so maybe I'm being too cautious? And Copper Coat is my go-to for head gaskets. But I've not tried it on intake manifold gaskets.

Big Blue's are LT285/75R16, but I don't think those are quite that big. Still probably 31" tires though.

Looks like a pretty solid truck, especially for ~ $5600 USD. But I don't see what engine it has, although maybe I'm missing that in the report?

Sure glad you found it! Long, long road but it must feel good to be seeing the end approaching. As for the gaskets, I'm not sure what you are asking. But, I don't use gaskets on the walls at the front and back that go across the valley. Instead I put a 3/8 - 1/2" bead of RTV on, and using guide studs, lower the manifold on straight. Then I run the bolts down snug and evenly, using the pattern, and let it sit overnight. The next day I torque it down. But you have to have the walls and the manifold CLEAN as the RTV has to adhere to it. And, thinking about it, you may be asking about RTV on the mating gaskets. Yes, I use a bit, but only around the coolant passages, front and rear.

I keep bugging him to join but he just says he wouldn’t really check it like he does FB. I don’t know why, it isn’t a hassle and he is subscribed to many, many FB truck groups. I hope he has a change of heart. It is not the format he prefers, but this is where the information is... That, and the fact that you cannot "document" things on FB. You post, and then its gone. Here you can have a thread and document your whole build if you want. Or, Trent could document what he's doing on the big-truck consoles that go below the steering column. People would like to see that, and it would give others ideas on how they could do things. So, please encourage him. I think he'd like if if he gave it a try.

Yes, I'm pretty sure he did as I saw pics on FB. Speaking of Trent, and he may be reading this, he said he'd join here. But that was a week ago.

Man, they've got some serious stuff in there! The length of the coilovers is amazing, so the travel must be amazing as well.

You might think that, but I couldn't possibly comment. (If you haven't watched the original, BBC, House Of Cards then you won't get it.) But don't forget that I've lived in Texas, so might have heard it there.

Steve - I thought of trying to stake the crimps, but they aren't easily accessible. And by the time you get to all of them you have the radiator ready to come out. But for $68 and 2-day delivery for a car that my daughter and grandtwins ride in that became a no-brainer. Bill - That kind of information tells me that my days of buying plastic/aluminum radiators is over. Assuming, of course, that an all-aluminum one is available. And that's not the case for the Subie.

Well, at least there's one fewer layer on the onion now, and you are one ring closer to having a Bloomin' Onion. Cooling system leaks appear to be "the thing" at the mo. Our daughter, who is living with us currently, called yesterday just as Sunday school class was starting. The 2001 Subaru had overheated and she had stopped on the way to meet us there. It is only a mile home, so I went back to get her and we left the car. After church, when it had cooled down, I filled it up w/water and drove it home. It didn't leak until it got up to operating temp and the pressure came up. At that point the upper plastic tank started leaking where it was supposed to be sealed to the aluminum core, and steam started rising. The new $68 radiator will be in tomorrow.

It just reminded me of the joke about ...... well, ahhhh...... I forget who it was. But two of them were building a house and one pulled a nail out of his nail bag, but the head was pointed toward the house. The other whatsit told him to put it back as it was for the other side of the house.

I didn't say they ran stock twin I beam. In fact, I pointed out that the twin I beam had lots of potential for wheel travel. Now what it took to unlock that potential... Soft springs would be one part of that. Something Big Blue certainly doesn't have.

Sure, that'll work. Just use the ones in the pack that adapt 3/16 to 1/4, not the ones that take 1/4 down to 3/16's.

Yes, let's do!