Gary Lewis

Bummer! They've been bought.

Point made. I'm going to talk to the banker over lunch.......

Interesting to see that the catalog shows 1980 to be the only one with that boot, and it was a paint-to-match. Anyway, that's the right-hand 1986 Chestnut color.

Interesting. So it is trying to open Outlook, which I don't use either. Thanks for trying. Hmmm, let's see what others get......

Yes, that's odd. I wonder what I could peddle 3 of them for?

Yes, thanks Pete!

Welcome to the Bullnose Forum! I'm not going to chastise you for not creating a new thread in the New Users Start Here folder as I suspect you are just here to get your problem solved.However, tacking this onto an old thread may not get you much help. We shall see. Anyway, I wonder if because your truck has a manual transmission and had no speed control if the PSOM was programmed with the output on CKT 679 turned off. I don't have a 1995 EVTM, but my '95 EVTM shows the output going to both the Power Control Module and Speed Control Amplifier, as shown above. But maybe the PCM doesn't need the speed since it isn't controlling the transmission? In the page below you can see the Enable PSOM Programming Connector. Perhaps you can find out how to go into programming mode and check to see if there is a box for Speed Control that needs to be checked? I don't know how to program the PSOM, but I was recently told there is an easy way to do so.

And, for that reason I've turned Pinterest off in the buttons.. Could someone do a test or two for us? I'd like to know what you see when you click the "email" button. Could you try that and then describe what you find, what the email looks like when you get it? Or, do you get it? Nothing happens when I do it. Perhaps I don't have it set up correctly. But yesterday there were supposedly two emails sent. Also, anyone with a Twitter account? What happens when you click that button?

Ron, I think they're as close as I can get to fake spot welds. The factory spot welds are every 2" or so along the flanges. With a 1/4" hole drilled in the top piece, I can plug-weld like in the picture. Ideally, I need to time it just so that the puddle is almost flush with the steel. I need to do this consistently about a 100 times...that might be too much to ask though...we'll see. The shop didn't bend the stake pockets quite as nice as I'd like them to be, but they're not bad. Installed and covered in paint most people wouldn't notice. I don't think anyone will ever know. But, 100 welds is a lot. Wow!

My little 3400 lb Flareside with 302 and 5spd only managed to get 18 mpg hwy. I wonder is that someting that FB auto populates or does the seller have to fill it in?... It is a nice looking truck though;). I don't know where the MPG info came from. Perhaps the original window sticker info? They were extremely optimistic back then. They are just optimistic now.

Welcome! You've already done a lot of work on the truck. And, as you've discovered, that endears it to you. And, as you peel the onion you'll get a mess of onion rings! So, what did it take to convert the ammeter to a voltmeter? I'm curious about that one.

Congrat's! I like the idea of a pack of gears, letting you try several. But I think you are right about the tread. Obviously yours is effectively taller than other tires that size.

That might do it. I think I'd lose my seals at that temp.

Nice truck. Maybe a bit high though. However, I think Messers Marin and Chong wrote the MPG spec's. Yeah right, a 460 will get 13 in the city and 17 on the highway. And with 4.10 gears????

Gentlemen - I've started a new page: Electrical/Electronic Engine Control (EEC). My intent is to use it to bring together several bits and pieces that we already have, and which are hither, thither, and yon. Here are some of the things I plan to include there, but that doesn't mean these things can't be elsewhere or have links to the new page from "elsewhere": Electrical/EEC-IV Diagnostics Electrical/EEC Code Checking EEC error codes EEC Pinouts Wiring diagrams from the EVTM Does this seem reasonable? What else can we put in there re EEC?

Guys - I've started a new page: Electrical/Electronic Engine Control (EEC). My intent is to use it to bring together several bits and pieces that we already have. But, for this conversation if now has the error code info on it from Vinny. See what you think, please.

No. Among other things the ignition timing tables assume EGR so gives a lot of advance when it is supposed to be on as the inert gas significantly slows the burn rate. If you block it off and there's no inert gas in the cylinder the air/fuel mix will burn much faster than the computer expects and you'll have pinging if not detonation.

Wow! That's bad rot. Now I understand. On the tach, all you need for sure is the gauge cluster as your '84 will be wired for the tach. In fact, depending on the printed circuit on the back of your 84' cluster you may be able to just add the tach to the current cluster. But, the speedo with the tach cluster will have a trip odometer, and I love having one. So I'd use the whole cluster. And, Ford's instructions for resetting the odometer on that cluster to match the 84's are here: Electrical/Gauges and on the Odometer Reset tab. Anyway, I understand the plan and it makes sense to me. Good luck.

Wow! That's a major about-face. From flipping it to parting it out. I will warn you that parting one out is a LOT of work. I've done it several times, and hope to not do it again. And, there's the unbelievable # of parts you wind up with. It is just mind-boggling. But, I'm just warning you. Not saying it is the wrong decision. On the tach, if your '84 has full gauges then you won't need any additional wiring. Just the gauge cluster. But, if the '84 has idiot lights then you do need the wiring harness, and that could get quite involved. I think, but I'm not sure, that the harness that runs from the left headlight, through the cab, and out to the right headlight has to be changed out. One is an idiot light harness and the other a gauge harness. However, you can hard wire it, and maybe easier than changing out the harness. All in all, it might be easier to fix up the '85 with parts from the '84 than upgrade the '84.

Before I get started, my brother plans to come down to help install the engine, tranny, and t-case next Monday. So I have one week to get ready. But today was another two steps forward & one step backward day. The first step forward was getting the tie rod ends torqued down. However, that wasn't as easy as it sounds. The problem was in getting the nuts indexed properly so that the cotter key would go through the hole in the stud. That doesn't sound like a big deal until you remember that every nut and bolt has to have tape wrapped around it to protect the powder. And the tape obscures the view of the hole through the stud, so initially I was taking the tape off, checking the alignment, and re-taping. But then I discovered a process that worked, and if anyone is silly enough to be following in my footsteps I guess I should document it: Mark the end of the stud with a line parallel to the holeTorque the nut to the minimum torque for the stud - 52 lb-ftPull the socket off and see if the mark lines up with a gap in the castellation of the nutReset the torque wrench to the max value for the stud, which is 74 lb-ftPut the socket back on, noting about how far you need to turn the nut, and turn it a bit less than you think is needed, but don't exceed the max torque valuePull the socket and check, and if it isn't enough go back to Step 5 until you get it lined upThe shot on the left is at 52 lb-ft, and the shot on the right is at 60 lb-ft. This process sure saved a lot of taping and untaping - which I did on the first few nuts until I developed the process. With that done I moved to getting the truck properly supported to accept the driveline components w/o moving, thereby ensuring that the cab will come back down from whence it came. And that meant placing the front on jack stands under the big bolt that secures the radius arm to the TTB, and jack stands under the rear axle. It should be noted that the original plan was to put the jack stands under the very front of the frame so when we load the frame with ~1000 lbs of engine/tranny/t-case the suspension won't give and cause the frame to move. Unfortunately that plan won't work as the jack stands are then too close together to allow the shop crane's legs to go past them and under the truck. So, back to the under-the-TTB plan for the jack stands. Got that done, which is the second step forward, and here's what it looks like: Then I turned to the plan to lift the cab off the frame with the lift - and ran into a problem - the step backward. I don't know what I was thinking, but the arms on the lift are waaaaaay to long to just reach to the rocker panel. Here's a shot from underneath with the arms shortened by removing the extensions. Notice that the rear arm, the closest one, is dangerously close to the frame. But, I have discovered that the truck is 3" closer to the left leg of the lift than to the right leg. So, I need to lift it up, remove the jack stands, drop it down, and roll it back and forth until I get it moved 1 1/2" right. That should allow the rear arm to easily clear the frame. I think I'll put tape on the floor to tell me where I want the tires to end up. And, here's a shot of the "channel" that is between the rocker and the brace on the floor. It measures ~3" wide and 2" deep. So I'm going to rip 2x4's down to ~2 3/4" wide, stack two of them, and slip them in there with carpet on top of them. Last, delivery of the flywheel/flexplate today was apparently Rock Auto's attempt at an April Fool's joke. That's ok as I didn't need it today, but perhaps it'll come tomorrow with the kit of stainless cotter keys.

So you have a truck with a heater firewall and HVAC/Hi-Lo Vent ductwork. Given that, I don't think anything is going to fit right. I don't know this, but it makes sense that it wouldn't work - at least to me.One approach is to acquire the right heater ductwork and use it, with nothing connected to your dash vents. Another is to modify the firewall to accept the A/C underhood box. A third is to see if you can connect the heater box with the A/C ductwork. But if you want to have A/C, then you either need to modify the firewall or use aftermarket A/C.

Vinny scanned this stuff in. I'm gonna put it up on the website in a bit, but for now here 'tis. Thanks, Vinny!

I'm going to guess that this guy doesn't like Fram, aka The Orange Can Of Death, filters:

That's the illustration for the A/C and/or Hi-Low Vent system. Notice the vacuum lines going to the control panel? This is the one you should be looking at. And, by the way, the easiest way to get something from this website is to right-click the pic, copy image address, hit Insert Image, and paste it into the entry spot where the "HTTP://" is, of course overlaying that with the URL. No need for a screenshot in that case.

I agree, NOS might not like today's gas. And, the diaphragm might be old and brittle. The Carter should be good.