Gary Lewis

Ok, this is going to be a long post. At 26 seconds you show two hoses that go from the carb back to the vacuum fitting on the intake manifold. And I'm pretty sure both of those hoses are connected to the wrong spot. You said you have info on that carb, but check to see if you are supposed to hook manifold vacuum, which is what the fitting on the manifold has, to any of the ports on the carb. Saying it another way, some of the ports on the carb supply manifold vacuum, but they are not supposed to be hooked to manifold vacuum. In a way, it is like connecting one electrical outlet in your house to another electrical outlet. Both are supposed to supply electricity, not get electricity. So I think you should pull both of those hoses and cap all four fittings. The PCV valve is hooked up correctly. However, very few of them have an opening in that top fitting. In fact, I've never seen one of them open, although I know some are. So, if yours is open and you can feel vacuum there then you are right to have capped it. And the cap on the distributor means there's no vacuum going to the vacuum advance. So, for now forget everything I said about what type of vacuum you should put to the distributor as you don't have any vacuum there. Probably one of the two fittings from which you removed the hoses, as discussed above, is ported and the other is manifold, and we will work that bit out later. At 1:35 you say "I came over here to the idle adjuster" and then you said you turned it clockwise all the way in. But, if you really were working on the idle stop screw I think turning it clockwise would have sped the idle up dramatically, not slowed it down. I fear that you turned the screw that is vertical and goes to the arm on the accelerator pump. So, can you take a pic and point to the screw you adjusted? Perhaps I misunderstood. And then you said you screwed the idle air/fuel adjustment screws all the way in and it didn't make a difference. And there, Houston, we do have a problem. Pete said that's an indication of a vacuum leak. But in my experience if you turn the idle air/fuel screws all the way in on any carb that is working correctly the engine will die. That's because you just shut off all the fuel going into the engine. (Note that I made "in" bold in the previous paragraph. That's because I wanted to call attention to that lie. The problem is that there are some emissions-era carbs in which those screws work backwards. But, this is a relatively new Holley, right? It should not have those weird screws, so forget that.) Bottom Line: There's something weird going on. However, those two hoses could be sucking fuel through the ports on the carb and into the intake manifold, thereby bypassing the idle air/fuel screws. I'm not sure that it is possible, but maybe. So, let's first disconnect those hoses and cap all four ports and see what happens.

Well, you don't have the factory A/C firewall. Here's your truck on the left and Dad's truck, which has factory A/C, on the right. Note that the opening on the right in the picture on your truck is shaped differently than the one on Dad's truck. Also note that Dad's has an opening that starts at the mid-point of the bulge toward the bottom and ends even with the outside edge of the bulge. But you don't have that opening. And below is a shot Dave/FuzzFace2 shot of the passenger's side A/C firewall laid against that of a heater-only firewall. (Dave, am I telling the truth?) So, I'm pretty sure that you have the heater firewall, but I'd like someone that knows about those firewalls to confirm it. Which means that you need a heater HVAC box, heater core, and heater controls - which are different than the A/C stuff. And, I don't have any of those. But, on the good side, your interior ductwork may be correct. And you shouldn't have any vacuum motors nor vacuum hoses. Take a look at the HVAC/HVAC Systems page and the Illustrations tab and then the Base Heater tab. Is that what you have? On the other hand, I have the headlight and wiper switches.

Let's work off your list. However, I think we need to determine what kind of HVAC your truck originally had before we proceed. Let me go take a pic of Dad's truck's firewall so we can compare it to yours. That's because there are at least two different firewalls and the HVAC boxes don't interchange. I think yours is A/C, but let's make sure......

Let's start a list of the things we, collectively, think you need. From what I've understood, you need: The underhood HVAC plastic piece A/C evaporator that goes in the underhood part Heater core Blower motor HVAC controls: But, which one. You don't have a signature to tell us what your truck is. Does it have dual tanks? The switch for the tanks goes in the HVAC control panel. Headlight switch: Do you need the wiring to it? Wiper switch: Do you need the wiring to it? Ducting: You said you have the underdash ducting. All of it? HVAC motors: Are there several metal, probably shiny, vacuum motors attached to the ductwork? Are there vacuum hoses attached and to the vacuum motors and coming a common header? Vacuum hoses near the passenger's side hood hinge, and two going into the cab where they stop at a connector? Temp control cable. If your truck had factory A/C the temperature would have been controlled via a cable. It goes from the top lever in the HVAC control panel to the blend door near the heater core. What am I missing, guys? I started looking at what I have and quickly started thinking "But what about..." and decided we need a list.

Here's what I sent him:

My note to the person on Craigslist said: He just responded with: So, help me. What would I reasonably like to know? Here are some thoughts: Why was it taken off CL and the price raised? (Probably not reasonable to expect him to answer?) You said "It runs", but does it run well enough to get on a trailer easily? Why was it parked? Beyond a tuneup, is the engine solid? Does it use oil? You said "Need it gone." But I'm in Oklahoma, so how soon would I need to pick it up? Do you have a clear title? (Probably the most important question.)

I've emailed him. I do NOT need it. But, if it is real......

I've paid half that much and not gotten anywhere near that much. But, those were local and that looks to be in Michigan. Still, there's a LOT of stuff there.

Jonathan - You and I have first dibbs on anything on the truck, and my name is in the hat for the t-case shifter. Pete - When I run out of POR15, which will be a while, I'll give Master Series Silver a try. But how, or with what, do you top-coat? To me that is the big question. As for adhesion to non-rusted metal, I've used POR15 many, many times that way and it has worked quite well - as long as the metal has been media-blasted and is clean and has "tooth". I'm not saying it is as good as MS, but it works extremely well. However, once the base coat is on the trouble begins, so I'm looking for a better approach to top-coating.

I'm not sure which "vacuum switch" you are talking about, but a simple system doesn't need them. This page explains how simple a system can be.

Keep us posted, please. We are still learning, so need to know how things work out. And, we take great joy in solving problems.

I've had 2 driveshafts cut down for $250 a few years ago. I think you ought to be able to do a lot better than $300 to cut down one. I agree. I had one totally rebuilt for that price. Just perused the Driveshaft page and they don't seem to have used the E4OD in F150 4wd trucks in '89. The F250 4wd's did get them. But I was hoping to compare front driveshaft lengths just to see if they were different. No can do. But, in '88 they used the same front driveshaft (E8TZ 4A376-B) for many trucks, including all F150's & F250's with a C6, regardless of engine. So, there should be no worries about the front driveshaft. Given that, I think we are just about "there" with the plan: Use the BW1356 I had built for the truck and get the "new" rear driveshaft cut down about 2". Thanks, guys! This has really helped.

You may have a vacuum leak or have full manifold vacuum going to the advance on the distributor. Sticking with the latter, I don't like running manifold vacuum to the distributor - especially with an automatic transmission. When the transmission is in neutral the engine is unloaded so runs at high RPM and creates a lot of vacuum, which pulls the advance on and speeds it up even more. And when you drop it in gear it goes in with a bang. Plus, that loads the engine so the RPM comes down, which drops the vacuum, which reduces the advance which lowers the RPM which reduces the vacuum which reduces the advance which lowers the RPM which..... Instead, I run ported vacuum, which is vacuum that is not present at idle but is as soon as you open the throttle. I'm not familiar with Holleys to tell you which port is the right one, but there is almost always one on the carb - that doesn't have vacuum at idle but does when the throttle opens. Try that to see if the idle comes down. If that doesn't solve the problem you may have a large vacuum leak. In that case you won't be able to get the idle speed to come down even if you back the idle speed screw out so far that the throttle blades fully close the carb off. So you need to see if you have a leak by checking all the vacuum hoses for cracks, ports that aren't plugged, etc. And if you don't find it then squirt brake cleaner at the base of the carb, the joint between the intake manifold and the heads, and anywhere that air can get into the intake system. If there's a leak the engine will speed up when it sucks the brake cleaner in. And the wrong base gasket under the carb can easily do that. Or the lack of the EGR adapter on a stock manifold. And, by the way, you can put the Youtube right on here to make it easier for people. Click "Embed", then "Insert Embed Tags, and paste your embed code from saying Share and then Embed on Youtube between the > and the < characters in the string that gets inserted:

Let me see what I have. But, it won't happen immediately as my wife just had eye surgery this morning and we have check-up appointments tomorrow and later this week. But, some of the others may have the parts and jump in, which is fine. We are a family. As for blocking the holes off, it looks like I remembered it - flat. So a piece of aluminum bolted down should do it for the big holes, and hole plugs for the round ones. Or, maybe you'll get lucky and we may find all the parts collectively and you can just put it together the way it is supposed to go?

I may get out to the shop tomorrow afternoon, and can look at the "squirrel cage" I have to see if it is flat. But, I'm thinking it is and you may be able to put a plate on it to seal it off. Or, maybe we can collectively scrounge up the parts you need? As for the switches, which are the headlight and wiper switches, we may be able to scrounge them as well. Would that be of interest or do you want new?

EOTZ 19988-A 80/82 F-U100/350 - - integral A/C and Hi-Low vent

E2TZ 1408-C 80/ F100/350 - - 15 x 6 wheel/P235, L78 tires — 15 x 7 wheel/P215, P235, L78 tires - - 16 x 6, 16.5 x 6, 16.5 x 6.75 wheels 80/ F100/350 — frame mounted carrier (except slide out) w/aft axle tank — 15 x 5.5 whee!/P195, P215, H78, 7.00 tires — 15x6 wheel/P215, H78, 7.00 tires — 16.5 x 6 wheel/8.00 tires w/singie rears

Thanks, Jonathan. I was SO relieved when the doctor finally came to tell me how the surgery had gone. It was supposed to be 1 1/2 hours and it was 2 3/4 hours. Anyway, she's home and doing fairly well. As for the front driveshaft, Huck had a D44 so the shaft should be perfect for Dad's truck.

Doing some re-reading of what I've seen before, and thought you might like to see these threads: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1269509-300-4-9l-saginaw-ps-pump-swap-question.html Don't miss the link in this one to SuperMotors https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1267599-saginaw-p-s-pump-questions.html This one has a link as well https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1173982-ford-saginaw-power-steering-pump-conversion.html https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1021533-saginaw-p-s-pump-conversion.html

I've tied shop towels or paper towels around things that appear to leak. Keep them slightly apart and you can usually tell from whence the leak comes. But, I don't know if that pump kit will work. The pump itself should as the engine is essentially he same. But, I don't know if the hoses will work. Maybe someone else does? As for a belt, I don't know that we can tell because we don't know the source of the bracket, and I would think that would determine the necessary belt length. But, why not get a the necessary pieces from an E-Series van?

E3TZ 9430-A R.H. 83/87 E-F250/350 - - diesel 8 420 88/ E-F250/350,F(Super Duty) — diesel 8 446 89 F59 — stripped chassis - diesel 8 446

"Easy" depends on how the yoke nut was torqued, but that's all there is to it. Try to wet that seal by tilting the t-case before disassembly, and wet it again before reinstalling the yoke you want. Not enough to matter. If you're spending the same money, why end up with fewer driveshafts? Let Tom Woods build a new one to fit. I wouldn't spend half that; either for another JY t-case, or the kit to rebuild it. And I wouldn't pay a dime for someone else to do the labor - it's too easy. The t-case isn't 1/2 as complex or delicate as an auto trans. Yes, and this describes those measurements & calculations:https://supermotors.net/getfile/816251/thumbnail/drivelineanglesguide.jpgIt also clarifies some common mythconceptions about driveshaft alignment.Ok folks, I talked to the doctor and the surgery was a success. Janey and I are home, she's had lunch, we've had a nap, and I've had another cup of coffee. So things are starting to be less confusing.Steve - Good to know I can put the slip yoke on the t-case, but given what Jonathan found I don't think that will be necessary as I should be able to have the new rear driveshaft shortened by roughly 2". As for the question of the front yoke's position, that was a poorly thought out question. Huck had a D44/E4OD/1345 combo. Dad's truck will have a D44/E4OD/1356 combo. So if F150's and F250's have the front axle in the same place, then Huck's front driveshaft should be perfect. But I'll spend some time perusing the new Driveshaft page to see if I can figure out the answer to that question. Unless y'all know. But, the mythology info doesn't really answer my questions. First, I doubt that I'll have angle problems by shortening a long-bed's driveshaft ~2", although I will check the angles. Instead, what I need to know is how to measure for a driveshaft. And, I think it is: Set the truck on the ground with a reasonable load on the suspension so the rear springs position correctly. But, Dad's truck won't have a spare, gas tank, rear bumper, etc. So, how much blast media do I need to load in the bed?Measure from the center of the front u-joint to the center of the rear u-joint. (Or measure from cup to cup and subract 1 cap's width.)Subtract 1/2 the spline length to put the spline engagement right in the middle. But, is that correct?Perhaps on #3 I need to measure Dad's driveshaft and then see what the Driveshaft page says it should be. And, I could do the same on Big Blue. That would tell me where they position the splines for measurement. Right?

Nice price. But I need the rears at that price.

Steve - I'll reply to your post after while. Right now I'm sitting in the waiting room at the hospital and it has been 2 hours since they took Janey back - on a 1 1/2 hour surgery. My head is splitting and it is hard to concentrate. But, I do see the measuring directions, and those will come in very handy. Thanks. Jonathan - You are right, the 1356 I had built has a fixed rear yoke, which may be a slip yoke eliminator? I found someone in town with those parts and had the t-case built that way. Is that unusual in a 1356? Is that good or bad? And, thanks for all the measurements. I think I can get my head around them, and I agree - cutting Dad's new driveshaft down should be easy and cheap. I'll use Steve's measuring directions when I can and figure out how long it needs to be, exactly, and take it in someplace to have it shortened. Thanks, guys.

Steve - The FAQ’s page is an ever-evolving one as I add info there as I come across it. For instance, I recently updated the how-to on adding pictures. And the new info about embedding videos, files, etc was added. Basically it is my notebook on how to do things, and can hopefully help the other users as well. And while I don’t expect anyone to use all of the functionality described therein, at least I can refer people there when they have questions. As for what to call things, I used the standard HTML nomenclature of “ordered” and “unordered” lists to be consistent with what you will find in the link provided on the FAQ page, or basically any other HTML documentation. And, that’s somewhat important as the codes to use start with and , so it is much easier to remember what to type if you remember the names of them. However, I didn’t know for sure what they would do until I tried them as those terms aren’t intuitively obvious to the casual observer. 😳 And I wish I could change the buttons and what they do on the reply page. I had to get someone else to give me some code to change what H6 does, and it now gives a bulleted list. (Yes, “unordered”, but since it doesn’t directly generate HTML then we can call it what we want.) Perhaps I could figure out how to turn H1 - 4 into useful things? (H5 gives an indebted paragraph.) On the font and labels, go ahead and create a thread. Might generate some interesting discussion.