Gary Lewis

I had a response to this and thought I sent it. Sorry. Apparently not. Anyway, it looks to me like there were three colors used on the headlight doors: - Black for use with the standard grille from 1980 - 86 - Argent for use with the chrome, or bright, grille for 1980 & 81. (Yes, I know that it says 80/86, but how then do you have a different one with the bright grille from 82 to 86?) - Dark charcoal from 82 - 86 with the bright/chrome grille That's just my thinking. But I could easily be wrong. And, I see no way to figure it out with the VIN. But maybe with the build sheet if you had that.

Yippee!

Are they USB as well?

I found three different ones for the AOD linkage. And I don't know which piece of linkage you were working on:

Got a little done today. First, here are the tie rods and the sway bar. (Trust me, the sway bar was swaying, but at 1/60 of a second it doesn't appear to be. ) Then, I rounded up all the fasteners needed for the installation, I hope. Here's what I have: - Torque converter to flexplate - Flexplate through adapter to crankshaft - Engine mounts to block - Engine mounts to frame/perches - Transfer case to transmission - Transmission to engine What am I missing? Speaking of the tranny/engine bolts, here's what I found: 10 bolts 2 1/8" long, and 3 bolts 1 1/4" long. And for the E4OD/M-block combo the 1 1/4's are just right. So I suspect that some of those long bolts will shrink a bit as I want to use original-style bolts. Also, I mentioned the adapter. It is shown below, but to help the reader understand, a 460's flywheel sits .300" further aft from the rear face of the block than that of the M-block's flywheel. So when you install a 460's transmission on an M-block the input shaft on the tranny doesn't fully engage the splines on the pressure plate or torque converter, whichever you have. And, the starter doesn't hit the flywheel properly as it registers on the transmission. So a few years ago, as I was installing a ZF5 in Dad's truck, I designed this spacer, which is now available from TMeyer. It moves the flywheel back the required distance and resolves the problem. It worked well on Dad's truck with the pilot bearing that's shown in the pics, but for an automatic you remove the pilot bearing. I did and test-fit the flexplate on the adapter and it fit nicely - the torque converter's pilot is 1.373" OD and the adapter is 1.375" ID, so it is a close fit. Then I test-fit the adapter, flexplate, and torque converter on the engine, and it fit perfectly. But I had to find the right place bolts to go into the crank. I had three sets: 1.750" long; 1.040" long; .693" long. The longest ones where those I bought for the ZF5 installation. The short ones are for an automatic transmission w/o an adapter. But the middle bed, I mean bolt, is just right. And all of this is just for the record if anyone is trying to follow in my footsteps.

Cool! But I think I'd have three problems: Lack of DeLorean; 84 MPH; and the plutonium.

I use a heat gun to soften them and then with Channellocks they come right off.

You'd be surprised how it helps old guys - like me.

I like your sig.

Sorta. The HO has DS-II, and you can tell that two ways: The ignition box has a blue grommet where the wires come out, and the distributor has a vacuum advance unit. The '84 Electronic Engine Control (EEC) system has a Self-Test Indicator. But I don't see a SPOUT in the EVTM. Perhaps that came in subsequent years. Anyway, the distributor on this engine won't have the vacuum canister that the DS-II system has since the computer makes all the decisions on ignition timing.

Yes, that process should work. But if this truck has an original Holley 4bbl then it will have DS-II ignition as that is the 351HO engine. So, no SPOUT. Just a very simple ignition system with no computer.

You got a STEAL! Congrat's! And, I agree with White Knight - the dizzy may be 180 degrees out. (Actually 360 degrees.)

Good plan but for the fuel hose. They make an oil hose rated for hot oil, and that's what I'd use.

I think that is the correct screw for idle speed, but turning it in/clockwise should have raised the idle speed, not lowered it. So, I'm confused. On the other truck, if it is a factory 4bbl carb then it'll be a very different one than you have. It'll be the 4180C, as discussed here: Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Holley 4180C. And, check it out but I'm very sure those hoses are wrong, and may be causing a problem. Having said that, there were some Holley-designed Motorcraft 2150 carbs that had an external connection to the power valve. But I'm pretty sure no recent Holley uses that.

Just more weight to drag around, and less ground clearance. The tires will always limit how much torque the axles actually get - an axle that can handle 1,000 lb-ft is overkill under a lightweight truck whose tires can never grip more than 200 lb-ft off-road, no matter what the engine can put out. The seller got back with me, twice. Here are the answer to my questions: 1. Do you have a clear title to it? Yes 2. Why was it taken off CL and the price raised? 3' of snow and 6' of mud, I verified that runs 3. You said "It runs", but does it run well enough to get on a trailer easily? once you get the front rotors free 4. Why was it parked? I got a new truck 5. Beyond a tuneup, is the engine solid? Does it use oil? In other words, will it have to be rebuilt soon? rear main seal leaked 6. You said "Need it gone." But I'm in Oklahoma, so how soon would I need to pick it up? the same day as I have your money 7. You say "some rust". What is rusted? Can you provide pics of the rusted areas? the ad pics show all, the back of the front right fender, right and left b-pillars, the right rear wheel arch, tailgate bottom edge 8. I see that some of the body panels are a different color to others. Do you know what happened and what was done? don't know 9. Where are you in the chain of owners and where was the truck used most of its life? I am the current owner, don't know Then, in answer to my email that I have a friend in the area that would like to look at it for me, he responded "If you are going to buy the Bronco, you need to look at it. If he wants to buy the Bronco, he needs to contact me. I do not deal with third parties. A prospective buyer half way across the country is suspisious enough for me to not waste my time, but here I am wasting my time." I'm slow, but I think I'm starting to figure out why the Bronco hasn't sold? Thoughts, y'all?

That is good progress, for sure. But, I think your list needs a little bit of further explanation. And, by the way, you can figure that out by looking at the part numbers here: HVAC/HVAC Systems.-Heater core - for a heater-only truck, as that is a different heater core than for an A/C truck. I don't have one of these. -Blower motor - that's the same blower motor for all of these trucks, whether just heater or A/C. I have a spare one of those, and you can have it for the shipping. But, since it fits in the HVAC box, all-around shipping may be easier/cheaper if you get the motor with the box. -HVAC control for a single tank truck - Specific to a heater-only truck, and you'll also find in the parts list that 1984 is a one-year wonder. And I don't have any heater-only controls. (I'm remembering that's what your truck is as your signature doesn't say, but I'm hoping I'm right) -Headlight switch, no wiring necessary I have a spare headlight switch. Yours for the shipping cost. Send me an email by clicking on my name on this post and give me your address. -Ducting: The only portion of the ducting I need is the engine compartment box for a non A/C firewall - Yes, you need a heater-only HVAC box or, as you said, non A/C. And I don't have any of these. -HVAC motors: would need all necessary motor components for a non A/C truck - You don't need any HVAC motors. The heater-only system used cables. But you may need those, depending on whether you have them or not. Again, I don't have any. -any other necessary items for a non A/C truck that connect between the blower motor and the HVAC control assembly be it in cab, or in the engine bay.

Thanks for volunteering, Jonathan. I wrote back saying "By the way, I have a friend that lives near you and would like to stop by and look the Bronco over once you've answered my questions."

So you spray Master Silver. Does it take lacquer thinner to clean up?

Jonathan - I like lists. They motivate me. They give me something to shoot for by the end of the time period. But the biggest deal in that list is getting the engine plate and refinishing it. And I'm pretty sure I can do that in a day and refinish all the other parts the same day - with the exception of the engine mounts. Yes, these are exciting times. However, Janey thinks that the week after next may be better for my brother to come down. That's because my SiL will come with him and take Janey somewhere fun, like shopping, and she doesn't think she will be ready for that next week. But, we shall see. Pete - Speaking of the mounts, I will POR them and topcoat them with the satin black. As said, I've used POR on lots and lots of things, most of which have been either "new" metal or media-blasted metal, meaning none of it had any rust when painted. And none of the parts has ever peeled. My shop crane was new metal and only has the base POR on it. It's been on for at least 15 years and I've used the goody out of the crane, with no chipping or peeling of the paint. Again, I'm not saying that POR is as good as Master Series. I'm just saying that it works quite well for me. And, as with everything, I think the preparation is the key. For instance, when the new engine mounts get in I'll rinse them with brake cleaner to get as much oil off as I can, and then media blast them down to bare metal with an etch. And I believe it is the etch that gives the "tooth" the paint sticks to. And once the POR has cured to the point there is "finger drag" as the instructions say, I'll top-coat it with the spray satin black. That appears to let the POR set up sufficiently to know it'll cure, but it is still soft enough for the top coat to bond.

Yes, it would be good to know who the shares were by. But I can figure out which pages are getting shares by going to the page. Here's the pages I was tracking before with data from Feb 2 and today: (Note that you frequently have to refresh the page twice to get the #'s to pop up.) Bullnose FAQ's: Feb 2: 44 Today: 44 Calibration Info & Part #'s: 43 43 Electrical/Alternators: 59 59 Engines/385 Series: 38 38 Interchange/Air Conditioning: 17 37 Specifications/Towing: 2 2 TSB's/TSB Index: 29 29 Year-To-Year Differences: 18 18 So, those pages aren't getting shared much. But the forum sure is!

Good point! That caught my eye as well. Gotta be some reason.

Not sure how many shares we had on Feb 1st when I added the new share feature, but there weren't many. And here we are not quite two months later and look at the count - 1K.

Not bad for $1600, assuming it runs. And, with the full-floater and 8 lugs it is at least a 250.

Engine still runs with the idle mixture screws all the way in? Seems like the power valve is ruptured, stuck or the gasket is not seating. A vacuum leak will cause a high idle, but the engine needs to be getting fuel from somewhere. Good upgrades, Jim. If the throttle is open past the transfer ports it'll pull fuel through them, even with the screws closed. And, I forgot it is a Holley, so could be getting fuel through a blown power valve or one w/a bad gasket. Thanks!

Talked to my brother today and we've agreed the plan to put the drivetrain in Dad's truck. Hopefully next week. In the interim I have to get several things done: Rip 2x4's to fit between the rocker panel and the stiffening rib that's ~3" inside the rocker panel. I'll stack two ripped 2x4's on each side to provide clearance for the pads so they won't hit the rocker arm. Lift Huck's 460 off the engine stand, get the engine plate, run it through the parts washer and the blast cabinet, and then powder coat it. Round up the fasteners for the engine/tranny, t-case/tranny, mount/engine, and mount/perch, etc and clean, blast, and powder coat them Buy another pair of jack stands and prop the rear end up with the tires off the ground ~2" to match the front. That will ensure that the rear suspension is out of the equation and, therefore, things can't move when the engine & tranny are laid in. And that's important so the cab will come right back down from whence it came. Blast and paint the soon-to-be-delivered new engine mounts. This will be the first test of my plan to use POR15 as the base coat and Rustoleum Satin Black as the top coat. Figure out which way the input shaft goes into an E4OD. And, when all of that is done I'll install the sway bar and tie rods.