Gary Lewis

The diesel ZF and the 460 ZF main case are the same casting with different mounting and alignment dowel holes. On the diesel one you can even see some ghost marks where the 460 holes go. So there is no reason it couldn’t have the same type of removeable cover. The diesel 4 speed bell has a removeable cover that is virtually identical to the ZF. The covers do not interchange, but they have the same type of access. I’m thinking the 460 4-speed bellhousing is probably the same way?Steve - The truck is going to have lots of extra grounds, but you are right that the powder coating or painting of everything will be an issue. I'll have to remember that, big time.All - I'll pull out the 460 ZF5 engine plate and take a pic for comparison. But my memory which, if I remember correctly, () tells me that I modified it somewhat. Anyway, let's see if we can get to the bottom of the issue. As for today, here's the plan: Check the engine plates & snap some picsInstall the sway bar, snap some pics, and postMeasure the rocker/cab length & determine how many 2x4's I needRevise shopping listDrive Big Blue out to the marina and pay annual boat slip feeGo to Tractor Supply and get another pair or two of jack stands, ratchet straps, and quick links, awa whatever else I think ofGo to Ace and get the 2x4'sStop at Sonic and get the love of my life a diet cherry Coke with extra iceAs previously said, the 2x4's go between the rocker and the brace under the cab and allow me to pick up the cab w/o the pads of the lift touching it. But I have to rip the 2x4's down a bit to fit in there, and they need to be stacked as the depth of the rocker is 2+ or so. The jack stands are to support the back of the truck while we install the engine and tranny to ensure the added weight doesn't let the whole thing move as the rear spring shackle pivots. Normally I have lots of jack stands, but all of the others are in use, so that's my excuse. The ratchet straps are to replace some that a young man lost or damaged when he borrowed them. The Lord says to loan w/o expecting to be repaid (Luke 6:35), but He didn't say you cannot improve your hand when you replace things. And the quick links are to replace some I've lost or damaged. Like the one I used to lift Huck's 460 - w/o closing it. Anyway, that's the plan, Stan. But, plans are meant to be flexible, so .....

That's why I said I don't think he's far from getting there.

I agree. But there's a possible upgrade: If you have a single tank get the correct HVAC control for a dual tank and use the tank switch to control the vacuum valve. What better place to have a switch that controls part of the Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning system than in the Heating Ventilation & Air Conditioning control panel? (I've always thought Ford's placement of the tank switch questionable.)

Good point. I'd forgotten that the 300 doesn't have a bypass in the cooling system as the V8's do. And it would certainly cause a problem to prevent the coolant from circulating in the block prior to the thermostat opening. Thanks for correcting me. But, on a V8 you can put a valve in one of the hoses as they do have a bypass that will still circulate coolant when the 'stat is closed. In fact, that's why the bypass is there. However, I disagree on this. The pressure in the system is the pressure in the system since the cooling system is a closed, pressurized system

I took a quick look at the body mount page in the LMC catalog, which is all I had for a quick reference, and it looks like the Bronco body mounts are all either outside the frame rails, or on top of the frame rails, is that right? For the pickup rear cab mounts, they are located inside the frame rails (while the front mounts are outside the frame rails, like the Bronco). The crossmember in question also has the contour in it for the front end of the mid-ship fuel tank. The reason I asked about the F350 crossmembers is that I forgot that there were a couple F350's out at the closest junkyard. BUT...Gary's links above reminded me that the cab/chassis trucks are not necessarily going to have similar frame parts as all of the other regular trucks. Still...there are a few 1992-1996 F150's out there, and I'm going to have a look at them...I'm just not holding my breath as the reason they are there in the first place is that they're rusted into oblivion. Cory - We have body mounts on here: Suspension & Steering/Body Mounts. But, as you'll see and get a chuckle out of, there's an excerpt from the LMC catalog in there. And, there was no illustration for Broncos But, I've added the illustration for Broncos, which does show the rear mount outside the frame, as you said. Hope that helps.

Gary, you may be a little miss leading and right on the part number(s) as that is for the booster ONLY. The OP is saying the zone, I have not had any issues with AZ parts, lists 2 different part numbers: duel calipers (different master?) or single caliper (a 2nd different master) but both may use the same booster. To the OP you will need to pull a front wheel and see what calipers your truck has as it is the only way to know for sure before buying the booster w/master when they ask single or duel calipers. Dave ---- Dave - Thanks for correcting me! I forgot that he was also looking at a master cylinder.

Our page here (Driveline/Brakes and the booster tab) shows your truck as taking E0TZ 2005-A, whether it is single or dual-piston. At least, that's the way I read it. So, what I do is take the part number and Google it. I've been able to significantly reduce the price as well as get quick shipment that way with just a little effort. And that way I don't have to trust the seller's understanding of what part fits what truck. For instance, recently I bought engine mounts that Amazon wanted $50+ for and said they won't fit. But I got them for less than $10 elsewhere and knew they'd fit because the part number was correct. Here's the listing from the page in the link above. See if you agree with my assessment of what the part number is - before you order.

You might want to check out this thread which discusses that. And then this page: HVAC Systems and the Heat Shut Off tab and then the Vacuum tab, which is the only one I've populated. But there are manual valves that will easily do the job. I'll try to remember to put some info and pictures on the Manual tab on that page tomorrow. And all of the engines have a bypass system in the cooling system, so you can just put a valve in one of the heater hoses, and it doesn't matter which one.

I think there are Bullnose trucks that deserve to be kept stock, like Paul's, and Bullnose trucks that beg to be customized. Dad's truck will be far from stock, but may look stock to a Chevy guy. Big Blue will look more stock but with EFI on a 460 and a ZF5, both of which came out years later, still won't be. So, it is the owner's opinion that counts. But, I'm not sure I'd like bed liner on the outside. I'd have to see some pics in order to really decide, but it doesn't sound good at first blush. But the flatbed I think I'd like. Especially if you got a girl to drive it. In Winslow. (I've been on that corner a couple of times. There's a red flatbed Ford there.)

You are now on the map: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/members-map.html

Paul - Welcome! And, for those that don't know which truck you are talking about, it is this one: Picture Galleries/1984 F150 XL. And I'll include a pic below to jog their memories. But before I start tying about your truck, we have a member's map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu), and I will gladly add you if you'd like. Just give me a city and I'll do so. Now for the truck. I've now realized that none of the pics in the gallery show the bed. And apparently there's a reason for that - it is "rough" as you said. But dents on the inside of beds are hard to remove. My paint/body man spent a lot of time on Dad's bed and finally said we needed to do go with a bed liner to hide the dents he couldn't get out. So we discussed the idea of a drop-in vs a spray-in liner, and he suggested that a drop-in liner will retain moisture and ultimately rust the bed out. So, we went with a spray-in liner and it looks good. Given that, my vote would be for a spray-in liner. Yes, it isn't original, but the original bed isn't in the kind of shape the rest of the truck is in, so that will help hide the damage. But, I think you'll want the color to be essentially flat to hide things the best. In any event, I recommend that you start a thread about your truck in the main section. Link to the pics, and give us some new ones. Tell us what you've done and what you are considering doing. Again, welcome!

I would have the same worries as you. I haven't purchased new vent window seals, but I have purchased door seals from LMC and they work pretty well.

I don't think it is as easy as that or Dave would have done it. But, let's let him tell the story. And, I don't think you are as far from getting it going as you think.

Jonathan - The silver plates hold the sway bar. I'll take some pics of that, maybe tomorrow. But the engine plate I powder coated is a 335 and 358-series automatic plate, not manual. Oh, you meant the other one, which is at least a 335-Series manual plate, and would surely fit a 460. Yes, the 460's ZF plate is solid on the bottom and makes inspecting the clutch impossible. So, you are suggesting I could use it with the ZF5 on Big Blue? That's an idea! I'll have to think about that. I think I modified the ZF cover when I had it on Dad's truck, so I'll look to see what I did and how the two plates compare. Cool!

Gary brings up a point I did not know of, but heard of it, Hi-Low Vent system. Does your truck have vent out lets in the dash like a AC truck would have? If so I don't know if the box I have would work as the truck it came out of did not have dash vent out lets. I don't know what to check / measure to see if it would bolt to the fire wall or if the duct work would fit up to yours or not. I do have all the duct work from mine that I am pretty sure will bolt into your truck but the dash vents would not work. I think the answer is that the 81 and 84 are different. But here is the info, so maybe you can see something different than I am? By the way, you are looking for an entry that says "w/o Hi-Low Vent", which is the high-end heater that has vents on the dash like the A/C system. But there are several entries w/o telling us which system they have. I think that means it is the base heater, not Hi-Low Vent. I will look over the box & control better but it is yours if you think it will work. I am a little under 2 hrs from Greensboro down RT40, just off exit 319 @ RT210 & RT50 I did not know how the Hi-Low vent system was set up and it sounds like the dash looks just like an AC dash. I wonder if the fire wall is the same for Hi-Low vent & non-AC system? If so then he could bolt in a non-AC box & duct work and just not have the dash vents work. I will have to look over the above information better when not so tired, up at 1am with only a short nap when I got home from work at 3pm. Thanks Dave ---- I'm pretty sure that the Hi-Low Vent system and the A/C system had the same under-hood box, heater core, etc. And the heater-only system was the odd one out.

Thanks! I'm on a mission to get ready for when my brother comes down to help. Gotta have lots of things done, but knocked out several of them today. However, I want to have EVERYTHING lined out when he comes so there's no time wasted. Down to the point of having the fasteners laid out and electrical tape already on them, a list of tightening torques, etc. So, there is plenty to do.

I think the answer is that the 81 and 84 are different. But here is the info, so maybe you can see something different than I am? By the way, you are looking for an entry that says "w/o Hi-Low Vent", which is the high-end heater that has vents on the dash like the A/C system. But there are several entries w/o telling us which system they have. I think that means it is the base heater, not Hi-Low Vent.

I'm pretty sure they were all the same. But you can look at the parts lists here: Suspension & Steering/Crossmembers. Go to the Illustrations tab, and I think the part you are talking about is 5025. Then go to the Part Numbers tab, pick the truck and the parts list #, and then go to the parts list and see what the part # is. I did a spot check and found two instances of E0TZ 5025-A.

OUCH!!!! Bet you won't do that again. But, you know the ignition works well.

Got quite a bit done today. First, here's the fasteners for the driveline:And, here's the engine plate:Then I turned to the engine mounts, and got them POR15'd and then sprayed with the satin black Rustoleum. They aren't dry yet, but I can say that using spray paint dramatically improves the experience of using POR15.And, I can also say that POR15 sticks pretty well, even on un-prepared surfaces. My next task was to install the tie rods. But I quickly found that I had way too much paint, both POR and Rustoleum, on the threads to let the adjusters screw on. A trip to the wire wheel took the Rustoleum off fairly quickly, but the POR was still down there in the threads and took a lot more time. But the combination of the wire wheel and a thread file eventually got it off/out.And, here's the tie rods installed. I measured the old tie rods and made these the same length. But, I don't have them torqued down yet, although the fact that they are on is a huge step forward.

We have a bit about it here: Specifications/Lubricants and then the Evolving Specifications tab. And on it there's another link - Hemmings. See what you think of how I've summarized the Hemmings blurb on that page. Perhaps a re-write is needed?

Excellent price.

Correct for 1982-86 trucks. And CHEAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Pretty! And cheap! Correct for many of the D44 front axles, but not all of them. So check the parts lists before you buy. (But, at that price you can't get hurt too badly.)

EOTZ 13412—A (Marked #E0TJ 13412-AA) 80/86 F100/350 (99) — for units w/o factory installed rear bumper - w/dealer installed step bumper