Gary Lewis

Got a lot of cleaning and re-organizing done in the shop today, including taking 5 tires and wheels, an intake manifold and a couple exhaust manifolds, and lots other things to the attic. And then I got to weld a bit as one of the handles on the shop crane had separated from the nut. It won't come off now. Then I decided I needed to try the shop crane out, and this happened: Tomorrow is more cleaning and then wrapping up a few loose ends, like torquing the flexplate and transmission mount bolts, figuring out how to get the tranny off the engine stand when the two sets of legs want to occupy the same space, etc. I hope Monday evening I'll be singing:

Pete - Congrat's on getting done. Hope you have a good trip! Take some pics and post them, please. Gary

Remember that it's a FLEXIBLE PLATE... Until it's bolted to the crank hub AND to the torque converter in a transmission, it can be wonky as hell, and still work perfectly. If you're going to check its axial runout, you have to wait until the bellhousing is bolted up & the TC nuts are tight. This is from the SM: https://supermotors.net/getfile/288132/thumbnail/transtcinstalle4od.jpg Remember that you have to turn the crank somehow to install the TC nuts, so be prepared to pull the spark plugs & either prybar the ring gear, or wrench the HB bolt. AFAIK, the rear face of the block is always at the same location in the chassis, for all engine/trans combos. Some (that I've never seen IRL) attached to both frame webs: https://supermotors.net/getfile/518610/thumbnail/framedetails92.jpg But AFAIK, all frames after '88MY are drilled to accept these 3 crossmembers: https://supermotors.net/getfile/929327/thumbnail/transxmbr.jpg That means 2 sets of holes on the driver's rail, and 3 (including the E4OD web holes) on the passenger's. Regardless of 4WD; the E4OD came out in the '89MY and was used in all fullsize Ford light trucks through '96/7, as the TSB near the middle of this caption explains: https://supermotors.net/getfile/704885/thumbnail/e4odsolenoidcharts.jpg I vaguely believe I've encountered a (VERY) few factory 5.0L E4ODs. Very good info. Thanks, Steve. On the flexi plate, I'd hoped that's right, but the others I have don't have the runout when not installed. Maybe because they have been installed? On the rear face of the engine, if all C6's are the same length then the rear faces must be at the same place because they all use the same crossmember. But I don't know if a 460's C6 is the same length as an M-Block's C6. I know the crank faces are in different positions relative to the rear face of the block. So does that make the integrated bell housing different? Anyway, I that will take some thinking about. Perhaps people can measure some transmissions? The illustration of installing the torque converter is a big help. And the description of how to install the input shaft, long splined end first, certainly answers that question. Last, the illustrations of the crossmembers helps as well. Not only do they show how it mounts, but they show the nut/bolt direction and torque values. I like installing things the right way. (Did you know that the nuts/bolts that tighten the adjusting sleeves on the tie rods are supposed to be installed one way on the left side and the other way on the right?) Thanks again.

That doesn't look right. Not Rosewood. No part number, although I might could look up the ID # if anyone is really interested. But, at that price.....

I was all over that like white-on-rice. Except that in Nicaragua the rice is brown.

I thought you liked spending money vicariously?

So disappointed! I was going to Buy Now the truck for $7.

Modern day logger!

Bill - Not sure what you mean by "use a complete VIN". What did you have in mind? As for the story, folks seem to think that since they've not seen it in their short lives it didn't happen. Gotta get out a bit more.

Bing offers: nobody in their right mind. phrase. If you say that nobody in their right mind would do a particular thing, you are emphasizing that it is an irrational thing to do and you would be surprised if anyone did it. [emphasis] Yeahbut, I have a left-handed friend who had a sign on his desk that said "If the right side of the brain controls the left side of the body, then only left-handed people are in their right minds." Therefore, only right-handed people would do what I'm doing?

Bill - Underhood/Vacuum Systems/Vacuum Diagrams. Not the most logical of places, but....

Yes, that engine is going to be stout, especially down low. But Diesel Brad has a pulling truck w/a Swiss cheese frame, and he's getting lotsa power from his engine. So while the frame may twist, it apparently comes back to its original shape when the power comes off. Anyway, yes the E4OD is a big dude. It'll look impressive when coupled to that engine and backed up by the BW1356. Gonna take lots of cab-off pics. In fact, my son just said to make sure I send him one on Monday.

Pete - Ford seems to have been stamping a partial VIN on the frame for years, although not always in the same place. But only stamping it on some of the small-blocks and never on transmissions. At the same time Chrysler was stamping both engines and transmissions, and GM stamped lots of things. Anyway, I've added links to this thread on the VIN decoding page (Specifications/VIN Decoding) so people can see what's been said about where the partials are. Or might be. As for the idea of a crossmember page, if I don't take pics of that E4OD one pretty quickly it'll be too late. And, I have a ZF5 crossmember I should also shoot. Plus whatever else I have in the attic.

Missed that it is an auction and the reserve hasn't been met. As for the trailer package, the description at the bottom says "trailer towing/ camper package" and "receiver hitch with trailer brake". Seems like they went with the light-duty driveline and heavy-duty accessories.

Good catch. I don't see a black horn bezel with speed control buttons for '84 here: Interior/Horn Pads. Maybe I missed it, but it looks like until '85 if you got speed control you got a Rosewood horn pad, regardless of the instrument and radio bezel colors.

Ray - Looking forward to seeing you. We'll have some Mac's BBQ. Chickenmahal - I like it! But, how do you move all the weight of those logs? How do you get them onto/into the mill?

It is a nice, clean truck. And straight! An even better steal. But, if you are in NY it is a loooong ways away.

For $3303 that's a steal. Yes, it is a bit crusty in the rear, but the body is straight and seemingly w/o rust. The 5.0L, AOD, and the 3.55 gears would make it economical to operate. But, to equip a truck w/a 5.0L and AOD with those mirrors, that hitch, and the camper/trailer package is .

Thanks, Ray. But no apologies are needed. God, family, and work are more important than trucks.

I don't think the height is different at that point. I say that because it appears to fit nicely with the measurements I've taken. And, it appears to miss the holes in the cheese frame.

That's why I'm big on CAD. I have a terrible time imagining things, but I can draw them.

I did measure, but I don't know where the measurements are. However, it is sort of a moot point as the E4OD crossmember is an odd duck. The passenger's side is L-shaped with the leg of the L pointing up and bolting to the outside of the frame. However, the driver's side is just like the other crossmembers in that it sits on the bottom lip of the frame and the brace bolts to the top. But, there are no bolt holes in that area, which is several inches back of the regular crossmember bolt holes. However, this is the Swiss-cheese frame, so there are holes in the side of the frame, not just bolt holes. It looks like I won't have to bolt where a hole is, but I'm not sure yet.

Interesting approach. I think it would look a lot better in the pic with a gloss. And, I fully agree about the wheels.

Sounds kind of like children Gary! 😂And yes it was meant as a compliment. I was referring to the lifted cab and preparation is going to make the engine/transmission install quite nice compared to the usual method! Monday should be a great day and Dad would be proud.Yes, like children. Yes, the prep is going to make it easy. Here's the plan, but steps 1 - 4 will be done prior to Monday: Install the transmission mount on the transmission and torque the fastenersInstall the flexplate on the engine, torquing the bolts down - after ensuring that the engine plate is already on the engine.Pick up the engine and position it in front of the truck, and put it back on the floor - with the spacers under the legs so the pan doesn't hit the floor. (The ram on the shop crane leaks and it'll be on the floor the next morning if I don't put it down myself.)Roll the transmission on its engine stand to the side and out of the way, ready to be picked up.Pick up engine, remove stands, and bolt on the mounts, torquing them down.Trundle forward w/the crane, lay the engine in place, and run the nuts on the mounts down finger tight and then prop the engine up from whatever end it needs it to be stableRoll back, install the load balancer, pick up the transmission, insert the input shaft into the transmission ensuring that it seats in the splines and is lubed for the seals. Then install the torque converter into the transmission, ensuring that the three "steps" are felt and that the hub of the transmission is 1/4" behind the mating surface of the bellhousing. And strap the torque converter in place so it can't fall off as the whole thing is lifted into place.Trundle forward to lay the transmission down behind the engine. Making sure there is some lube on the pilot of the torque converter, mate the transmission to the engine and the torque converter to the flexplate. Make sure that there's a bit of slack where the torque converter isn't in a bind.Torque the flexplate nuts, and torque the transmission/engine boltsWith the transmission still held by the shop crane, raise/lower the transmission and move the crossmember until the transmission mount's studs will engage with the crossmember and install the nuts finger tight on the studs.Use a jack under the crossmember, suitably padded, and ease the transmission down onto the crossmember. Square up the crossmember with the frame to find the right position, including the brace, then mark the hole positions.Remove the crossmember, supporting the transmission with a jack, and drill the holes. Paint the holes, twice, and let the paint dry.Install the crossmember, lower the transmission onto it, and torque all the nuts/bolts down for the crossmember, transmission mount, and engine mounts.Install the transfer case using either the shop crane or just carry it by hand, coat the gasket with Ultra Gray, and torque the bolts down.Lay the quilt over the front of the bed, and lower the cab onto the frame, making sure the mount bolts are aligned. Tighten the fasteners finger tight. (They'll be tighted appropriately when John aligns the cab with the bed.Wow! That's a lot more than I thought when you type it out. Anyway, comments welcomed! What am I missing?