Gary Lewis

Yes, white wheels would have been much better.

That's a nice Bull, but not that much to warrant $18K! But that Bronco is sweet. Nice Bump but I don't like the wheels. As for the Dodge, I have a friend with one of those. Last I knew he was trying to sell it, to no avail.

Yes, it is hard to imagine that line pulling fuel. But with it off and the ports capped we will know it isn't. Hence my suggestion to get things down to the absolute minimum. And I agree, carbs are going to be very passé, which is part of my quest to put EFI on both Big Blue and Dad's truck. But, I think there are enough aficionados of the ICE to keep them alive for a bit more than one generation. I hope!

Jim - The smoke test is a good idea. David's writeup on that is here: http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Vacuum-leak-detection-effective-and-inexpensive-td11511.html As for running with the screws closed, I'm wondering if it is pulling fuel through the vacuum line that runs from the carb to the vacuum tree on the back of the intake.

Paint the inside of the bumper to keep it from rusting? POR15 or Master Series would kill the rust.

What intake manifold is on the truck? The stock 4bbl manifold requires the EGR plate. And Edelbrock makes two manifolds - one with and one w/o EGR.

Got some testing done using the shop crane today. First, here's the engine in position, although the stands are still on. And, by the way, the flexplate is on and torqued down, and the engine plate is ahead of it. Then the question was if I could somehow get the shop crane's legs past those of the engine stand and get in position to pick up the tranny. The answer is yes, as shown below. But instead of using the load leveler I'm going to use ratchet straps, although we'll add a couple more than those shown for safety on Monday. The issue is clearance. Looks like with the straps in the configuration shown I can get the boom 15" from the vent on top of the tranny and that will give 4" of clearance between the bottom of the tranny and the top of the engine and 4" from the boom to the firewall. Oh, note that the rear mount is installed and torqued down/up. So, what does the to-do list look like now? Green is done, and red is to-do. Install the transmission mount on the transmission and torque the fastenersInstall the flexplate on the engine, torquing the bolts down - after ensuring that the engine plate is already on the engine.Pick up the engine and position it in front of the truck, and put it back on the floor - with the spacers under the legs so the pan doesn't hit the floor. (The ram on the shop crane leaks and it'll be on the floor the next morning if I don't put it down myself.)Roll the transmission on its engine stand to the side and out of the way, ready to be picked up.Pick up engine, remove stands, and bolt on the mounts, torquing them down to 50-70 lb-ft.Trundle forward w/the crane, lay the engine in place, and run the nuts on the mounts down finger tight and then prop the engine up from whatever end it needs it to be stableRoll back, install the straps, pick up the transmission, insert the input shaft into the transmission ensuring that it seats in the splines and is lubed for the seals. Then install the torque converter into the transmission, with lube in it, ensuring that the three "steps" are felt and that the hub of the torque converter is ~1/4" behind the mating surface of the bellhousing. And strap the torque converter in place so it can't fall off as the whole thing is lifted into place.Trundle forward to lay the transmission down behind the engine. Making sure there is some lube on the pilot of the torque converter, mate the transmission to the engine and the torque converter to the flexplate. Install the transmission/engine bolts. Make sure that there's a bit of slack where the torque converter isn't in a bind.Torque the flexplate nuts to 20-34 lb-ft, and torque the transmission/engine bolts to 40-50 lb-ftWith the transmission still held by the shop crane, raise/lower the transmission and move the crossmember until the transmission mount's studs will engage with the crossmember and install the nuts finger tight on the studs. (Uh oh! What nuts??? Looks like I only have one of the two powder coated.)Use a jack under the crossmember, suitably padded, and ease the transmission down onto the crossmember. Square up the crossmember with the frame to find the right position, including the brace, then mark the hole positions. (Note that the rivets and bolts for the radius arm bracket are the same distance from the front of the frame, so use them for reference.)Remove the crossmember, supporting the transmission with a jack, and drill the holes. Paint the holes, twice, and let the paint dry.Install the crossmember, lower the transmission onto it, and torque all the nuts/bolts down: crossmember/frame to 48-66 lb-ft; transmission mount/crossmember to 50-70 lb-ft; and engine mounts/frame to 54-74 lb-ft.Install the transfer case using either the shop crane or just carry it by hand, coat the gasket with Ultra Gray, and torque the bolts down to 25-43 lb-ft.Smear the mating surfaces of the cab mounts with the special grease.Lay the quilt over the front of the bed, and lower the cab onto the frame, making sure the mount bolts are aligned. Tighten the fasteners finger tight. (They'll be tighted appropriately when John aligns the cab with the bed.

The carb is a source of vacuum, as is that tree/spreader in the manifold. So it makes no sense to connect them. None. So you should pull that hose and cap both connections. And for that matter, you could cap the PCV connection and the brake booster connection.As long as you aren't going to be driving it, just getting it to idle correctly, you don't need any vacuum devices connected at all. But, all connections on the engine and carb must be plugged.

Interesting. Let us know what all you find.

Interesting! When you say "pictures" that it doesn't look like, are you including those from the factory or BW manual? Driveline/Transfer Cases and the BW1345 tab.

Those look great! My dad had the kids in shop paint his '55 Chevy (back in the early 60's when it was a work car) and they did a good job as well. In fact, it was the same color!

I'm very sure that line from the vacuum tree/splitter should not go to the carb. And for testing purposes I wouldn't have a line to the distributor. So I would pull both of those hoses and cap the tree/splitter for your test.And, by the way, the line that goes to the hard line and down the transmission tunnel goes to the transmission. It is possible that the vacuum modulator on the tranny has a hole in it, so I'd pull that line and cap it at the tree/splitter. Then, once you get the idle down to where it should be then hook it up. In other words, get it down to basics. As for the engine stalling when you spray starter fluid, you are getting close to the problem. I'm going to guess that there's a leak at the carb base. Did the engine originally have EGR and you left the adapter off? If so, that will cause a leak.

Personally, you can't have too many clamps on a part. And yours look just right. Plus, those welds look excellent! Well done. By the way, just go into edit mode on your post, copy all, and then paste that into your thread.

Let's see if this helps: Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/General Automatic Transmission Service Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/Automatic Overdrive (AOD)

See if this is what you need: Driveline/Transmissions/Manual Transmissions/TOD.

I'm just going from this on Page 13 here: Steering & Suspension/Front Suspension and then the Instructions and the General Suspension Service tabs.

That's bizarre!

I agree. Many things I've watched have gotten into "reasonable territory" mid way in the time period and then sat there. That gets me interested thinking it'll go for about that, but then it goes bonkers at the end.

Yes, and I recommend NOT doing it that way. I've tried for years to think of why Ford might specify that, with no good guess or any documentation to explain their reasoning. But I've encountered one moderately-good (although exceptionally-rare) reason NOT to: https://supermotors.net/getfile/851337/thumbnail/23blown.jpg Ouch! That's a seriously-bent tie rod! Don't think I've ever seen one bent like that.

The transmission section in the 1984 Factory Service Manual shows two different 4spd/OD transmissions. One is for the Vans, and the one for the trucks is the "TOD", shown below in the right hand column in section 16-27-01 as the "Single Rail Four-Speed". The transmission looks like this one, right? The top cover on this trans is very similar to the 1988-1996 M5OD-R2 5spd transmission. The factory manual has a great service section on the TOD with lots of pictures. My PDF software won't let me extract the pages, so I would have to print them and then scan as a single document (Which I would have to do at work). Between Gary and I, one of us can get you the TOD section. Thank, Cory. I don't have an '84 manual but am cutting up an '85 to scan, so if it has it we'll have it a bit later today.

If it is original then wouldn't the factory shop manual have the rebuild info? I'll check tomorrow and can scan it in if so.

Yes sir, progress is good!

I'll show my ignorance - is the RTS also known as something else? Was it original to these trucks?

I'll check the shop manual tomorrow to see what it says about the transmission. I hope I remember to do so.