Gary Lewis

Good catch, Jonathan. I moved it as Resources is the wrong place. In fact we may have to think about limiting who can post there. Anyway, this thread is in the main section where it'll get more attention.

The forward one is the one I took the pic of a week or two ago. And it is tight.

Too easy?!?! Nobody in their right mind would ever do this - assuming "this" is take every nut, bolt, washer, and spring down to base metal and then coat it. :nabble_anim_crazy:Seriously, had I known how long this would take and how involved it would be I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have gone down this path. Having said that, it'll be a unique truck. :nabble_smiley_evil:Anyway, as Dad would have said, if that's a compliment I thank you. On the transmission input shaft, and transmission in general, I'm finding these things:This post on FTE says "Also worth mentioning that you be sure when you put the TC back in the trans it drops in in three distinct steps. When converter is properly seated into the trans the TC center hub will be ¼" below the matting surface as measured off the bell housing face via a straight edge for reference."And this post on FTE says "The end with long splines goes into the transmission. If you were to install it bassakwards the turbine in the convertor would bind."But you never really know if the people on those forums know what they are talking about, so I guess I'll call Aspen Transmission tomorrow and have them tell me which end of that input shaft goes in first.

Yep, both are under the cab.

OK, very good sir. That explains a lot. I kept seeing that one when I was searching for a 1988-1996 4x4 5spd crossmember, and I didn't know what it was for. I had a couple guys tell me they were for a 5spd, but I knew they were not. Right - the ZF5 crossmember bolts into the original holes in the frame but is offset to the rear about an inch. Perhaps we need a page on crossmembers? With pictures, part numbers, usage, etc?

E4OD. Came out of Huck, the '90 F250. Also has a reinforcement bracket like most crossmembers have that goes from the crossmember to the top of the frame. I'll be showing that Monday evening, I hope, as my brother and I put it in place.

Not a bad price.

E5TZ 6019-K 80/85 "Before 3/12/85" COVER ASSY. (CYLINDER FRONT)—kit

Ok, the cab's off Dad's truck and I can update these dimensions. As it turns out, there are two partial VIN's on the frame. In the pic below the tape measure starts at the rear bolt of the passenger's side radius arm mount and the rear VIN starts at about 21" back while the front one starts at 11" back - even with the transmission crossmember's front hole. (There are two sets of holes in this pic, with the 1st on the right and the 3rd one from the right being the original holes, the the 2nd and 4th from the right are for using the original crossmember with a ZF5.) Here's another view of them:

Yep, MONDAY! BE THERE!In the interim I have several things I need to do: Check to make sure I have all the fasteners ready and lay them out in an orderly fashionLook up and write down all the torque specs for those fastenersWrap the head of each fastener in electrical tapePut the new stainless cotter keys in. (I just painted the studs of the tie rods, so when that's dry I can put the keys in.)CLEAN THE SHOP! I have tires and lots of other stuff that needs to go to the attic, and if I had all that out of the way it would be a lot easier to maneuver the shop crane on Monday.Pick up the engine and swivel the shop crane around so that it is ready to go. But I can't pull Tim's stands off the engine yet and put the mounts on as the shop crane's ram leaks and it'll set the engine on the floor overnight. Figure out which end of the input shaft for the E4OD goes into the tranny - and mark it!And there will surely be lots more I should or could do, but I'll use that as my to-do list.

You beat Jim to it. But this isn't just progress, it is the prelude to a major milestone.

It should be pretty easy to find a stock gauge to replace the broken one. But if you want an aftermarket one, instead of or in addition to the stock one, then that's the "belt and braces" approach I usually use. Big Blue has AutoMeter gauges in him, but I've used other brands as well, all with good luck. However, I've traditionally used mechanical rather than electric gauges. The reason is that the mechanical ones usually have 270 degree movement while the electric one typically have 90 degree movement. I find it much easier to see what they are saying with the 270 degree sweep. But, they aren't as easy to install, that's for sure.

Wow! They are pretty - and cheap!

If you, Bill, or Matt (his son) come up with that info we could figure out where to put it on here. And, good to hear the DB starter is still cranking that 460. I'm sure something like that's what I'll put on. And, I'm sure that a 460 auto starter will be just the ticket. Now for what I did today - beyond checking flexplate dimensions and posting pics of a spare tire lock. Basically, this was one of those rare days when everything clicked. In fact, I think I had divine help. The first serendipitous thing was that the 2x4's are undersized - they are exactly 1 1/2" thick. So, two together gives me exactly the 3" I needed to go into the "channel" without having to take anything off the sides. Given that, I quickly chopped them up to 34" long and screwed them together two by two. Then I pulled out the scrap carpet and it was also 3" wide. I cut two pieces of that and stapled it onto the "top" of the 2x4's, with the staple going into the crack between the two boards so it won't hit the truck. And, here's what they look like: Then, since it was not quite noon I decided I needed to pull the cab. It should be a piece of cake to pull the mounting bolts since they had been powder coated and had never been torqued down - right? Well, it probably would have been had not some dummy painted the exposed ends. But, with a little creativity they came out easily enough. Then, with a quilt separating the bed from the cab, I pushed the lift button - and the cab went up perfectly straight. Never touched the quilt, much less the bed. And, here the long-awaited before and after:

Note as advertized, although few people would know the difference. The plastic tube, officially known as TUBE ASSY. (AIR CLEANER AIR INTAKE), is the one with my blue notes in the chart below, which is also available here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/air-cleaner-tube-s.html But the snorkel, officially known as DUCT and VALVE ASSY. (CARBURETOR AIR CLEANER AIR), shows ID/engineering # of E3TE 9D626-DA, and with the handy dandy Master Cross Reference List that Bill gave me I found that it is part # D7TE 9A626-F. And, that was used on the trucks shown in the first entry below, which is also available here: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/air-cleaner-snorkels.html

Haha! I was going to say just that! For once, I am the one that has the shiny part and GARY has the rusty one!!

Sorry, forgot that bit. It does run into the torque converter as you fill, but it won't completely fill it in my experience. So you'll want to fill it to the full-when-cold line, start it up and shift into reverse and forward a few times. That will fill the torque converter fully. Then stop and check the level and you'll probably have to add at least one if not two more quarts to get to the full/cold line.

I just knew someone would say that. Yep, there are parts to PC everywhere. This will be a heavy truck from all the powder hanging onto it.

Ok, it must be show & tell time. Here's how it mounts:

Jim - Dorman doesn't have a corner on the bad tolerance. Just measured the flexplate I got from Rock Auto and the ring gear measures from .360" to .460" from the mounting face. I just hope that's within tolerance. And, speaking of those measurements, they were in an effort to make sure the ring gear will be where it is supposed to be in relation to the starter's mounting point. And the table below shows what I found: the flexplate will "average" .087" further away from the starter than on a 460. Should be good. Right?

I get vicarious pleasure spending other's hard earned money! You must be pretty happy about now. Seriously though, I certainly appreciate your gift for helping people as well as remembering what they are looking for. (I started to say "what they need", but I'm not sure "need" is quite the right word.)

The factory service manual section for the C6 is here: Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/C6, and on the Rebuild Procedures tab, clear at the end, it says 8-28 ft-lbs. (Yes, Cory and Jim, it says "ft-lbs". )

I didn’t get the tag and can’t find your FB post.

They outlawed complete wooden beds here years ago. They will allow them now only with a steel frame or steel skeleton of some kind. They were popular at one time when the beds were rapidly rusting away. There is a guy with a Bullnose (with a wood/steel bed) just two doors down from where I work, and I sold an 8' bed to another guy with an 83 with a wooden bed just a couple months ago, so they're still around. Did they fall apart too rapidly? Or break easily?

Perhaps. It looks like the pointy thing is the latch. I'll pull one of those bolts and see how it fits in a bit. After I finish this cup and get another........