Gary Lewis

Steve - Thanks, but one of my goals is that my offspring won't have to have things made for the truck, so I'm really hoping that a starter for a 460 auto will work. And, my thinking is that the only thing that would prevent that would be if the flexplates have different offset. So one goal for today is to prove that the have the same offset. Jim - Thanks. That does help, but I think those are starter numbers not flywheel numbers. At least that's what I found when I googled those numbers. In fact, here's the DB Electrical #3226, and it says it is the mini-starter for a 460 automatic. In fact, that's probably the starter I'll buy for Dad's truck.

It looks like it closes like a clam shell over the end of the eye bolt. That pointy post goes through the eye hole, and the little curved part fits over the bolt. The whole thing would be hanging below the RH frame rail, on the cross bar that holds the tire up. I assume... I've never seen one before either. Nice catch. Did you buy it Gary? Yes, I did buy it. As for how it is to be installed, I think Cory is right. There are several illustrations in the catalog of it, but here's the best one I can find. I'll see if I can't show it on that bolt later today.

I routinely use 2x4's around the shop, but not 4x4's. Like yesterday when I was rolling the truck around there was one spot where it didn't want to stay so I tossed a chuck of 2x4 in front of the tire. Problem solved. So this way I'll have lots to chop up for whatever I need. And, while I'm accused of never throwing anything away, there's a reason for that - I'll need it some day. Sure enough, the left over 6" wide strip of marine carpet I used on the boat trailer bunks will be perfect to put over the top of the wood. That way nothing will stick to the undercoating and peel it off. This is what I hope to get done, along with some more cleaning, tomorrow. We shall see.

David, as well as all y'all - I've rethought the plan on the wood. I think I'll notch one of the 2x4's as shown below, then screw the two together. That way there's more base width and less chance to tip. And, I can probably do it on the mill, which means I won't have to bring the table saw down from the attic. Thoughts?

You might want to read through this thread on FTE. And RAY1986F150 is our own Ray Cecil.

Here's what those things look like:

David - Good question. My intent is to use a full-sized 2x4 plus a trimmed-down one to give a total length of 34", width of ~2 3/4", and a height of at least 2 1/2". That length looks to be the max that the bottom of the floor of the cab is flat in the channel. The 2 3/4" is about the max width I think will go into the "channel", and the 2 1/2" will ensure the lift's arms hit the wood and not the truck. So, to answer the question, the wood will be essentially as tall as it is wide, and won't have a chance of toppling. As for prep for Monday, not much got done today. However, I did get two boxes in. The first had the new flywheel, and because of it I discovered that I was WRONG! I said that M-Block flywheels have 180 teeth like a 460's. But, this one came in with 164 teeth like a small-block, but was supposedly the right part number. So I went back to the catalogs. Here's the entry from the 1980-89 truck MPC showing that the flexplate for Dad's truck is D1AZ 6375-A. But, it doesn't say boo about how many teeth. So, I went to the 1973-79 truck MPC and found that the manual transmission has a 180-tooth flywheel. But nothing is said about the flexplate, although one would assume..... Then I went to the 1973-79 car MPC and discovered that the flexplate has 164 teeth. So now our flywheel page (Engines/Flywheels) has been updated to show the tooth-count on the M-Block engines. And, I measured the OD and counted the teeth of the new M-Block flywheel as well as Huck's 460/E4OD flywheel: 14 3/16" & 164 teeth. So the next thing to do is to measure the offset of the two to ensure that while I have the back of the crank on the M-Block the same distance off the block as the 460's, I want to make sure that the ring gear will be exactly where it should be and, therefore, I can use a 460's starter. But, that raises questions about what starter to use on a manual-transmissioned truck. An auto has a 164-tooth flexplate and a manual has a 180-toothed flywheel?

That page from the 1996 EVTM, above, says the PSOM converts it to 8000 pulses per mile. So it isn't a DC voltage. Instead, it is probably something approaching a square wave, not a sine wave, since it is far easier with solid-state electronics to create an on/off signal than a shaped wave.Surely the pulses are sufficiently narrow that the vehicle can do 150 MPH w/o the pulses running together. So if we assume 150 then at 30 you have a 20% duty cycle and your DC voltage might read something less than 1 volt, and maybe less if the duty cycle is less. But, many volt meters don't like pulses and give wonky results on the DC scale. Your meter might give reasonable results on the AC scale, but it might not as these probably aren't sine waves and aren't coming at 50-60/second, which is what most meters expect. I think the only way to truly know what you have is to look at the signal on a scope. But those are rare these days, and most don't run on batteries so you can't take them up to 30 MPH - unless you have a really long cord. However, the fact that your meter is seeing something is encouraging and says you have a signal. But I'd try it on the AC scale to see what you get.

I think you may be onto something. You won't see the full voltage of a pulsed signal with your meter on the DC scale. At best you'll see an averaged voltage, meaning that a signal that has a 10% duty cycle pulse may read ~10% of the DC value. I'll go to the shop again in a bit and look at my '96 EVTM to see what it says, if anything, about duty cycle. But you might try reading it on the AC scale.

Wow! I’ll bet you couldn’t get that shipped to you w/o it cracking. And for that price you can buy a new one.

Got a text last night from Ray Cecil with a link to this truck: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-ford-f-100-4/

I've never seen one. Yes, I've only seen it affect '87-93s; all of which are EEC-IV. I've never seen "EEC-III" in any Ford documentation, but I haven't seen much Ford documentation that old. Haynes calls the previous system "MCU" (Motronic Control Unit) or "MCU-III". EEC-V is '96-up OBD-II, and the EECs are labelled that way: https://supermotors.net/getfile/731920/thumbnail/eec95way1.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/669802/thumbnail/eec96e4od5l.jpg Cory - It is reasonable to expect that the old harnesses can easily cause problems with the EEC's. But so many people quickly pull the EFI system off and go back to a carb that there may not be much market for a new harness. Steve - I perused the TSB's for what I was remembering, but didn't find it. However, I did quickly find these two that apply and we should provide links to: 87-21-10 EEC-IV DIAGNOSTICS 87-03-07 EEC-IV DRIVEABILITY TSB SUMMARY And, there were other TSB's which we don't have in yet which may apply. So this area will take time. As for "EEC-III", I've read so much in various places that I may be remembering this Wikipedia article rather than something written by Ford. But my remembrance is that everything was classified as Electronic Engine Control at the top level, and then there were systems under that heading. But the 1981 EVTM does call one system EEC, and I think that's EEC-III but it may be EEC-II. But, in the same EVTM there's Feedback Carburetor Control (MCU), and the MCU is Microprocessor Control Unit, with no mention of EEC. So some research is needed to understand whether MCU is a subset of EEC-II or EEC-III, or just what. But, this area has confused me for quite some time, and since it does apply to the Bullnose trucks it is something that deserves to be researched and documented. Over time.

There are at least 2 possible locations: above the gas pedal & under the driver's seat (which I've never found in the JYs). So something about locations would probably be helpful. https://supermotors.net/getfile/687489/thumbnail/mcu83a.jpg I don't think "capacitor plague" affects bullnose EECs, but it should probably be mentioned somewhere: https://supermotors.net/getfile/901696/thumbnail/eecburned9258e4oda2z.jpg Your codes page should have (or a link to) the instructions for pulling codes the right way (scanners are NOT reliable, and should be discouraged IMO): https://supermotors.net/getfile/862996/thumbnail/dlcjumper.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/245234/thumbnail/dlc-eeciv.jpg I always recommend chopping out the pre-'92 Ford-style relays & replacing them with more-common more-reliable '92~04 Bosch/ISO/Tyco relays: https://supermotors.net/getfile/1122758/thumbnail/eec_pwr_relays.jpg https://supermotors.net/getfile/507187/thumbnail/relays1.jpg Bill - Yes, I was hoping we could then find things. I keep looking knowing it is there someplace. Steve: Location: Good idea. But, the under-the-seat location was probably EEC-III as it was for 82's. Dad's new-to-him cab is from an '82 and I pulled the computer out from under the seat. Anyway, I'm thinking location info will be on a system-by-system basis. And that is going to take some sleuthing. I think the EVTM's will be the things to use. Not sure where to put capacitor plague. But that pic looks like an EEC-IV - right? IIRC, there's a TSB on that. Hmmm.... We do have, as of tonight, info on pulling EEC-IV codes. We already had that on another page and I copied it over to this page. See what you think on the EEC-IV tab and then the Code Checking tab. On the relays, we should have room to add a tab for that in the EEC-IV section. I'll get back to this in a day or two, but there's still a lot to do on this page, so it will be some time before it approaches "done". Still need EEC-III and V info, location info, etc.

Thanks. But you explained that our messages passed in the night, so to speak, so you didn't know you should tell us about yourself. Anyway, welcome!

Let's not assume I'm right just yet. But, I think it is a good place to start. However, like you I've only read of changing the speed multiplier to accommodate tire size differences. But, who knows?

Bill - There's some really good info in there. And he agrees that the Fram filters are to be avoided.

This was a tiresome day. The "tired" came from rolling the truck back and forth several times in order to get it properly positioned between the lift legs. I finally got it there, but I'll confess that I failed on that many times.I'd measure and know I needed to move the truck 2 1/2" left, and then work, work, work to get it over there, only to find that exactly 2 1/2" was way too far. Then I moved it the other way - and went too far. And I think I went too far back the other way. :nabble_smiley_blush:But finally, probably by blind luck, I got it where there's ~2" of clearance between the rear lift arms and the frame, as shown below. (And, you can see my belt & braces approach to supporting the truck in front. There are jack stands under the big bolt on the TTB as well as a 2x4 under the tire. It isn't going anywhere. But more on that later.)Once the truck was in position I set about getting the jack stands under it. In the front I measured the heads of the bolts that hold the radius arm to the TTB and found that they are about 1 3/8" in diameter. I wanted to bore a hole that size in a 2x4 and put that over the head of the bolt so that the truck wouldn't be sitting on the head of that bolt and potentially slide off. Instead, the weight will be on the radius arm instead. But, not having a drill bit that diameter I decided to bore a hole in a 2x4 that size.I put the 2x4 in the vise, slipped the boring head into the spindle, and tightened the draw bar to pull the head into the taper. But, there was this sickening feel where the draw bar didn't tighten up. So I pulled the draw bar out and discovered the threads were stripped. :nabble_smiley_cry:How could that be as I've used that boring head before. But, with a little bit of inspection I found that the draw bar is supposed to be threaded 7/16-20 but the boring head is threaded 7/16-14. Bummer!After a bit of time on the phone with Grizzly I had another draw bar on order, but that left me with a boring head I couldn't use. So I welded the threads up, turned the thing down to .430", and ran a die down in. And along the way my Craftsman die cracked. But, it held together well enough to get the thing threaded and I got the job done. Now I have to paint the business end of that boring head red so I won't use it with the new draw bar when it comes in.Ok, now that the truck is sitting on jack stands fore and aft, it was time to test the theory of lifting the cab with trimmed 2x4's in the "channel". Here's a pic that shows what I'm talking about, although that's just a little piece of 2x4 where two trimmed ones will be - along with some carpeting to protect the truck:And, here's another view of the plan. But, there will be wood that spans the distance between those two arms so the force is spread over a very large area.Any suggestions? Concerns?

The fuel systems on these trucks are fraught with problems. Ford keep working on them, coming up with changes every couple of years. In fact, it wasn't until in the 90's that they seem to have worked the issues out. Anyway, I'm following this but don't have any answers.

Cool! Interesting approach. Thanks for sharing.

Doh! I'm gonna!

Jarek sent me this email, and while I'm going to answer in this thread, I thought it would be better if everyone saw the response in case I'm wrong. Jarek - I think all tachs have to connect to the "Tach" connection on the coil. But, the tach signal is also in the dash as they did away with the idiot lights for 1986. You can see that wire in the schematics shown here: Electrical/EVTM/1986 EVTM/Start & Ignition. Here's the 1986 5.0L EFI schematic. (Your signature doesn't tell me what fuel system you have, but a 1986 5.0L should be EFI.) You can see the dark green/yellow wire coming off the coil, and going to the tach. So you can use that wire from in the dash, right behind the instruments, to power the tach.

The ad blocker, AdBlock in my case, kills the signatures. Which is why on the Ad Blocker tab on the Bullnose Forum FAQ's page it says:

Perhaps an ad blocker? No need for it here, by the way.

I use Chrome all the time and I have them on the left side of the screen if I'm full screen. But if smaller than about 3/4 screen they show up on the bottom.

Friday the 12th. So now I'll have 3 of them to sell for $50/ea plus shipping.